The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
Gilbertd's Avatar
6989 posts

No intermediate connections, the wires from the plugs go directly to the ECU.

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I might actually have one. I had to replace the whole cassette on the Ascot (my spare P38) and kept the glass. I gave it to a friend who was restoring a Classic LSE but we found that the Classic glass is flatter so it was no good for him. This was a couple of years ago and he was able to get a new seal then but I'm pretty sure he still has the P38 glass in his workshop. I'll give him a call and ask. No idea how it could be got to Italy in one piece though.....

There's a seal around the cassette that bears against the underside of the roof and that one will let water in if it isn't a good seal but the seal that everyone is talking about is the one around the edge of the actual glass. That just fills the gap between the glass and the edges of the hole in the roof. There's no lip or anything like that as the glass has to be able to slide downwards when it is being slid open and upwards when it tilts.

Oops, maybe I cleaned them out. I bought a pair a couple of months ago from JLR. Still haven't got round to fitting them yet......

Pierre3 wrote:

I have a feeling that the lack of supply of the sunroof seal will be the straw that breaks the camels back as without an effective seal the car will be evermore wet inside.

No it won't, the seal is there to stop wind noise, not water. As long as the seal between the cassette and underside of the roof is good and the drain tubes are connected and clear, there won't be any water getting into the car.

A further option would be to look at other cars with a similar sunroof (BMW would be a good place to start at they owned Land Rover at the time the P38 was built and there are a lot of small items that are BMW parts) and see if a seal is available for them. It is only a rubber channel with a felt covering that is glued to the edge of the glass after all.

Island list it as a non-stock item and to allow 1-2 days extra. That usually means they have a source but don't consider there to be enough demand to keep it in stock. You could try ordering from them and they will tell you if they can't get it.

Why do you think you need it? If you have a leak the seal isn't meant to stop the water getting in, it is there mostly to stop wind noise when it is closed. If water is getting in, it will be the drain tubes being blocked or disconnected. Water gets in and runs along a channel before running out of the drain tubes. If it can't drain through those it drips into the car.

Bigas is made by AEB, one of the best known and most widely supported systems so you'd have no problems with it even if it needs any work. Parts are cheap too if anything needs replacing to get it spot on.

When I had a right rear sensor problem, the Nano reported the correct one. Although I did check the resistance to confirm it wasn't telling fibs.....

In the door handle. See the sticky thread directly above your post https://rangerovers.pub/topic/360-stiff-door-handles-solved-and-painless

I travel a lot but don't really have that much experience of main dealers other than my own local one, I buy any bits I need when I am at home so I don't have to buy them when I am away from home. With friends in France who are also into cars, I know that it can be difficult. I very often get sent a shopping list of parts to pick up to take with me when I am going over. Brexit has made things far worse as we are no longer in the single market so there should be duty to be paid at the point when parts enter the EU from outside. To the point where I was asked by French Customs about a boot full of parts when I took some over. Fortunately my friend had a P38 at the time so I told them that as I was driving a 24 year old car I didn't know what I might need when I was away so had taken some spares with me just in case I needed them! Buying any car parts in France is difficult as, other than the odd enthusiast, the French don't tend to repair anything themselves so they are not geared up to it. You only have to look in Norauto, the French equivalent to Halfords to see just how few useful parts you can easily buy over the counter. You can buy oil or a set of brake pads but anything beyond that is a complete mystery to them.

The indifference and complete rudeness seems to be a French trait, particularly if you speak to them in English. Try speaking to them in extremely poor French and they seem to take pity on you and are far more helpful. The other problem is that nothing is urgent, everything can wait until tomorrow. The only problem with that is by the time tomorrow gets here it is today so it can wait until tomorrow......

I would suspect the passenger one. I was thinking I could check mine with the passenger door unlocked and drivers door locked and seeing if the sill buttons would work, only to realise that with the central locking you can't have one locked and another unlocked if it is working as it should. You've got the Nano so you can confirm if the switches in the latches are working with that. Ignition Off, BeCM - Diagnostics - Inputs - Door Locking. From there you can look at the logic status of each switch which will be shown as either 12V or GRND. So if you operate it, you should see it change from one to the other.

If it thinks it is already unlocked it won't try to unlock it again. That would point to the CDL switch, can you operate the central locking with the sill button on that door?

If I leave the Ascot for 3-4 weeks, the battery is fine (and the EAS stays up) but if it is left for about 6 weeks, it will be flat when I go to it. As soon as I connect the charger, the rear right door lock will try to lock (even though it already is) once every couple of seconds. It carries on doing this for maybe 15 minutes or so until the battery voltage has risen and then it stops. Whether it starts to do it when the battery voltage is falling and reaches a certain point, I have no idea but I suppose it could do which would accelerate the battery going flat.

The only way to check why yours is going flat is to check the current draw with either a clamp on ammeter or one in series with the battery. Once 2 minutes has elapsed and the BeCM has gone to sleep, it should drop to something like 25-40mA. Any more than that, or the BeCM waking for some reason, there is a problem somewhere.

There's been discussion about this before with the diesel radiators and it appears there is a difference between early and late. Because of the intercooler there is less options for oil cooler, AC condenser and transmission cooler so one (no idea which) is incorporated into the radiator. General opinion seems to be that if you don't need the inbuilt cooler and can't get one without, you just don't connect it.

All Land Rover main dealers are franchises, even here. My local one is owned by the Marshall Motor Group so the Land Rover dealer is next to the Volvo and Jaguar main dealers while the Peugeot and Honda dealers are on the opposite side of the road. All franchises owned by the Marshall Group. However, as a franchise holder they have access to the Land Rover parts and service databases so can order parts for you direct from Land Rover.

I've used the Delphi ones from Island and never had a problems with them. They bite well and don't seem to overheat no matter how much I need to use the brakes.

They don't need to know anything about the P38, you go to the main dealer, go to the parts department and say, "Can you order me part number EJD101600 and I'll pick it up tomorrow". The guy I normally see in there will check the number to confirm what the part is to make sure I have got it right and order it but I have had one experience with a parts man that was new to the job who insisted on trying to find the part on his list to get a part number, so after his third (failed) attempt, I told him to stop pissing about and just order the bloody part. Next day when I went in to pick it up I got an apology from the parts manager who said they weren't really used to people coming in with a part number just a very vague description.

That's a setting in the BeCM as to what happens if the alarm is triggered, hazards, main beam, horn, whatever combination you want. However, looking at the Nanocom documentation, under BeCM - Settings - Alarm, it says this:

ยท Alarm: The alarm can be either enabled or disabled if required. Disabling the alarm
prevents the alarm from arming and stops all audible and visual activity whenever the
vehicle is locked or unlocked. It does not affect the immobilization.

So if it can be disabled, that should cure the problem.