After a bit of water......
As Phil says, ignition lock has been pulled out so it can be started with a pair of pliers. EKA entered with the Nanocom (it comes complete with all the handbooks including the service book and the all important security card) and, after syncing the BeCM and ECU, it fired up on a squirt or two of brake cleaner as the fuel tank was completely empty. Bunged half a gallon of petrol in it (that was all we had) and it fired up on that. Engine sounds very nice with no nasty noises, overheating or oil leaks. After letting the EAS compressor run for a few minutes with a door open, the EAS appears to be working perfectly and it shot straight up to the High setting. Seemed a bit reluctant to lower but it probably just needs a bit of use, it has been standing for over 5 years after all. Transfer case would select high and low ratios too, so nothing to worry about there either. Central locking works from the sill locking button on the drivers door so no reason to think it won't work from a key (once you've got one!). Even the drivers heated seat works.....
I'd say it doesn't need the BeCM and ECU changing (there's no need to swap both as the Nanocom can sync a replacement BeCM to an existing ECU), but CRNW can make a key blade to fit the existing locks. OK you wouldn't have a remote but it is a cheap option to be able to lock, unlock and start it. They could also supply a remote but at a greater cost.
The minimum needed is a key, a battery, a lambda sensor (idle sounded like it may have been running on 7 but the Nanocom reported an error on one lambda sensor so I suspect that was the cause), a pair of wiper blades, the rear brake pipe replacing (although probably wise to do the other side too) and a pair of rear tyres and that should be enough to get it through an MoT. For finishing it off, it needs a good clean, a headlining kit from Martrim, a zebra strip in the HEVAC (no idea if there are any problems there as more segments don't work than do). One of the blend motors didn't seem to want to do anything but what would you expect on a car that has been standing that long? They may well start to work with a bit of use too.
It is a very good basis for a really nice car with a relatively minor bit of work. We both decided if we had a nice, warm, workshop or it was mid summer, in a week we could get it almost perfect, but as neither of us has a nice, warm, workshop (and it isn't the middle of summer), it would be good to see it go to someone who does have who can return it to its former glory and get some use out of it.
No, it's got a lightstone interior and I hate lightstone interiors......
I'm going over at the weekend to see if we can get it started. Might even chuck a bucket or two of water over it too.....
There's a couple of places near me where there's a lot of RF and I normally just hold the fob next to the rear window where the receiver lives and it works. By cutting the aerial wire, it makes the receiver 'deaf' so it is less susceptible to lots of other RF but it needs a stronger signal from the fob for it to be able to pick up the signal. Moving it closer is usually enough to make it work.
Odd that entering the EKA with the Nanocom didn't work but I've no idea what has been done to the ECU to make it free run. Ordinarily, when you unlock the car, it turns off the immobiliser and the BeCM sends a code to the ECU to enable it. If you lock with the fob and unlock with the key, it lets you into the car but doesn't turn the immobiliser off hence the need to enter the EKA either by turning the key in the lock or with the Nanocom. That tells the BeCM you are the owner and aren't trying to steal the car so it sends the code to the ECU.
If you need to go and park in the same place in future, make sure it isn't telling you the ignition key is in and lock with the key. Then you can unlock with the key and it will all work.
A few pics to help with the decision.....
I've not seen it in the flesh yet, and I'm told the interior has a bit of mildew (but so did the red one I bought a while ago and that cleaned up nicely) but at least it isn't a Classic or Discovery so shouldn't be rotten.
Yes, the press remote works but assumes the fob is synced so if it isn't, it does nothing.
Another thought, you can only sync the fobs when the immobiliser is off, so if you are still getting engine immobilised, you won't be able to do it.
Mistyped a bit in that post, so have just edited it. Make sure you follow the current version.
Keys may need to be synced. To do that all doors (and tailgate) must be closed and ignition key not shown as being in. Put a key in the driver's door lock and turn to lock, hold it there and while holding it, press and hold the lock button on the fob until the LED starts to flash faster, release the button on the fob and turn the key back to centre. Then do the same only turning to unlock, hold, press and hold the unlock button on the fob, release, and turn the key back to centre. Fob should then be synced.
Hospitals can be a problem as they often have lots of RF floating about from other stuff. In that case, use one key to turn in the lock and use the other fob but held as close as you can get it to the receiver aerial etched into the right hand rear window, so doing it at arms length. Then swap the keys over and do the same. That way you should be able to sync both fobs.
Gearchange is mechanical by a cable, so it will still go into Neutral without the engine running. The problem with towing an auto is that the oil pump for the gearbox is behind the torque converter and driven by the engine. So by towing it without the engine running for any distance, there's no lubrication to the gearbox so it will destroy it.
If it does need to be towed, put the fuse in position 11, then turn the ignition on to make it do something. You should get a message on the dash saying Transfer Neutral and you can then turn the ignition off again.
The reason for the Ignition Key In message is due to the microswitch in the bottom of the key barrel getting gummed up, so a squirt of brake cleaner to flush it out followed by either nothing or lock lubricant and working the key in and out a few times should sort that. You'll know if it is working as you will hear a clunk from the steering lock when you pull the key out and the centre of the barrel will pop out a couple of millimetres.
What has happened is that it won't let you lock it with the key in the ignition so you don't lock the keys in the car, hence having to use the key to manually lock it. When you unlocked it, for some reason it hasn't turned the immobiliser off so you have the situation you are in now.
Assuming you know the EKA, you can enter that with the Nanocom. Plug it in and with the ignition OFF, go into BeCM - Utilities (the last menu) - Disarm and type in your EKA, hit the Disarm button and all the doors will unlock and the immobiliser will be turned off. Start the engine to confirm.
You may need to sync the fobs again but shouldn't need to, they should start to work again.
If the worst case happens and you need to get it towed, there's no need to disconnect propshafts. Go to the fusebox on the BeCM under the drivers seat and put a 10A fuse into position 11 (far right on the top row) which will put the transfer case into neutral so will disconnect the propshafts for you electrically. This is only needed if it is going to be towed with some or all wheels on the road, if it is just going to be towed onto a flatbed recovery truck, there's no need to do this, just put it in Neutral.
Yes, crowbar to get the crossmember off (with a jack under the transfer case) and lump hammer to put it back. The only problem might be having to drill out and re-tap (M10) the threads when manifold to downpipe studs shear off.
RedP38 wrote:
the busy life of pensioner!!!!
Tell me about it. I've been retired almost 5 years now and wonder how I ever got time to go to work. A pair of P38's and a 4.3 litre V6 boat to look after, daughter's car, son-in-law's car, wife's car and now step daughter has just bought a little Toyota Aygo that needs a few jobs doing on it. When I'm not installing air conditioning heat pump systems that I started doing after retiring.
My very smart other half came over to state " well the exhaust doesn't stink of petrol today".
That's a good sign. Whatever the problem was, you seem to have fixed it. Which is always a worry as you don't know what you did to fix it and still won't know what it was you did that fixed it.
Yes, the fuel pump runs for a couple of seconds when the ignition is first turned on to put some pressure into the fuel rail and then runs during cranking and once the engine starts.
MAF sensor not only deals with fuelling but also has control over gearchanges and kickdown. So that is another thing that might be suspect even though the reported airflow at 21.59 is about right at idle. It should be 20 +-3 rising to 60 +-3 at 2,500 rpm. If it is reading wrong at higher revs, that will cause gearchanges to not happen when they should.
Last thing first, it's a well known bug with the Nanocom that it often reports the battery voltage at 16V when it isn't, so that can be ignored.
Pre-cat sensors should flip flop between 0V and 5V, 0V showing rich, 5V showing lean, so they are both suggesting a rich mixture.
Fuel temperature of -255 suggests the sensor is open circuit. To check if it is a sensor or wiring problem, with a 1kOhm resistor in place of the sensor, you should see a temperature of around 40 degrees C being reported. The fault code appears when the fuel temperature and the coolant temperature are so far apart that one or other is obviously incorrect. However, the main function of the sensor is to richen the mixture on a hot start to compensate for the fuel vaporising in the rail and shouldn't have any affect if it thinks the fuel is really cold.
However, one thing you haven't checked and could well point towards the cause of the problem, is the fuel pressure. There is a Schrader valve on the RH side of the fuel rail (above cylinders 4 and 6) so you can check it there, it should be 34-37 psi (use a tyre pressure gauge if you have nothing else, just make sure you blow the fuel out of it before checking your tyre pressures). The GEMS has a fuel pressure regulator on the rear of the fuel rail (hiding under the throttle linkage) with a reference pipe to the intake manifold. Two possibilities come to mind, one is that the fuel return pipe is blocked so excess fuel can't be returned to the fuel tank which would show up as high fuel pressure. The other is that the diaphragm in the pressure regulator is split so fuel in being injected into the intake manifold. In that case the pressure will be correct but the engine will be running rich, particularly at idle. Disconnect the pipe that goes from the pressure regulator to the intake and start the engine. If fuel comes out of the pipe, then that is your problem.
mad-as is correct. Assuming you are talking about the outer bearings, as in the wheel bearings in the hub, they are sealed units and there is an oil seal on the halfshaft to keep the axle oil in the axle and away from the outer bearings. When taking the hubs and halfshafts out to change the diff, it is a good idea to replace those axle seals anyway.
The only difference between front and rear is the fronts have a CV joint and the rears don't, just a rigid half shaft. That's also why the old fashioned way of checking for a wheel bearing failure by trying to wobble the wheel is pointless unless you can wobble it enough the bend the halfshaft!
A good hint although a P38 is very rare in a breakers yard here, they are all bought by the specialist breakers to be stripped and the parts sold off on eBay.... I was wondering if simply giving the Nanocom a 12V supply through its power socket would be enough, but thinking about it, I suspect the BeCM would need some power if it was to be interrogated.
I work on the principle that it will be knackered and rebuild anyway. If, when I test it, it isn't knackered, that's a bonus. I have 4 pressure gauges on short lengths of pipe that I can put in the 4 corner outputs, a short length of 8mm pipe to link the in and out that would go to the dryer and then put pressure in the port that would come from the reservoir. That way I can pressurise a valve block, open the inlet valve and the 4 corners in turn by putting 12V onto the relevant pins in the connector (that way it also tests the driver pack) and put pressure into each gauge. Then leave it and see how long it takes for them to drop. No drop means it is good, any drops in pressure means it needs a rebuild.
I drove to south London in mine (and paid the bloody ULEZ) to collect a Toyota Aygo my step daughter had bought. Dina drove mine back and reported that it wobbled about a bit, not half as much a a little lightweight Aygo did though.....
Dave, I'm well aware it is about raising an income but it is where they get their information from that intrigues me. Anything that is Euro 4 onwards will have the NOx figures shown on the V5(C), the DVLA data and the VCA website but as a P38 is Euro 2 it isn't shown. So, if Philip has said, it is based on NOx levels, where from or who have produced the figures?
I know the TfL database is often wrong. A former neighbour of mine bought one of the last Rover 75 Estates, brand new, in 2005 but had a personal plate put on it from new. In that case, DVLA issue it with a standard age related plate and transfer the personal plate onto it prior to registration so there is a previous plate to put on it when/if the personal plate is taken off. Putting that personal plate into the TfL checker and it correctly identified the car as a 2005, Rover 75, CDTi, fuel type diesel, Euro 2 but then said it was compliant which it clearly isn't. Last year the personal plate was taken off because the car was going to be sold and it was allocated the original age related plate. Put that into the TfL checker and it said it was a 2005, Rover 75, CDTi, fuel type diesel, Euro 2 so non-compliant. Make sense of that Mr Khan......
I tried them when I got the red one with a Clarion with no display but not working so I assumed it needed the code (even though it wasn't asking for one due to a dead display). The link I had for Clarion sent me to a different company so I rang them to see if they were Clarion or the Clarion employees but now under a different name. They weren't but did say they were able repair the Clarion units. The Clarion link now goes to a different website but I believe the company I spoke to were this lot, http://oem-services.co.uk/oe-repairs.