I wouldn't touch Arnotts with a bargepole, Dunlops only for me and never had one fail. There seems to be a view that anything with Made in USA on it is going to be superior to anything else. My experience with parts on my, American built, boat is I'd rather see Made in China over Made in USA.....

The nut, or the thread on the bolt has probably been damaged when the broken UJ flew out from under the car. Last resort would be to use an angle grinder and cut it off but that would then mean you will have to take the output flange off the transfer case to replace the bolt.

The viscous coupling is a sealed unit filled with a silicone gel so you won't get any noise from it. Driving with one propshaft missing is a sure fire way of causing it to seize even if it wasn't already (which it almost certainly was). It connects the front and rear propshafts so you need to stop the rear from moving, either with the handbrake or with the gearbox in Park and the rear wheels on the ground. Then you try to move the front, usually by lifting one front wheel and seeing how much torque and over how long, you can move it. But that does assume you have a front propshaft connected. As you don't, you will need to do it with a socket and breaker bar on the nut in the centre of the flange the propshaft fits to.

Does the nut turn? If you are holding it at the back it should just undo.

But without a front propshaft, that won't prove anything. The VC is between the front and rear outputs on the transfer case.

Yeah, I don't like bottle jacks for that reason. I've got a big 12 ton one that is intended for trucks but the contact point isn't very big and it isn't that wide so can easily tip over. I tend to only use it for supporting things while I'm bolting them on rather than lifting. It's a bit like the one that LR supply for changing a wheel. We used to have a Disco 2 at work and got a flat rear tyre one day while out in it. Only to find that the supplied bottle jack, even when fully retracted is too tall to fit under the axle when there's no air in the tyre. Had to drive it on the flat until we could get the flat tyre up onto a kerb meaning the jack was in the gutter and would fit under the axle. Then once it was jacked up high enough to fit a tyre that did have air in it, it was wobbling quite nicely.....

My EAS has only ever dropped when I had a duff height sensor and I was driving it at the time. With the car not running and a door open, it isn't going to try to self level so would only drop if it had a leak. I can put it on High and leave it for as long as I ever leave the car and it doesn't drop at all so I know there's no leaks.

Clive603 wrote:

Easy if standing under a car right up on a lift. Trickier on your back with about 6" nose to chassis clearance! But we got there.

I'm the opposite, I prefer to work laying under the car. Normally I do all the work under the car simply by putting the EAS on High and leaving a door or the tailgate open. I've got ramps but the only time I've used them was when changing my gearbox (with the front wheels on the ramps and the rear on axle stands). When I was taking my transfer case off to replace the chain, bearings and seals, I managed to blag the use of a 4 post lift but found that it was either too high so I was on tiptoes or too low so I was having to stoop. In fact, when we were putting it back on after the rebuild we lowered the lift right down so the car was just a little higher than it would have been with the suspension on high.

What caused an issue with the lambda sensor plug? Not sure is your car is a GEMS or Thor but on a GEMS the plug is clipped to a bracket on the side of the sump so you only need one hand to connect it. Maybe with your higher ramps it was too high (or not high enough) to make it awkward.

v8vroom wrote:

In the meantime, I’ll test if the VC has seized (jacking up one side and turning the wheel).

But without a front propshaft you have nothing connecting the wheel to the VC????

The tool covers both the nuts and bolts, they are both 9/16th AF and will undo the fixings at the diff and transfer case ends. Either 1/2" or 3/8" drive depending on what size ratchet you have in your socket set.

You do need a complete propshaft. Your pictures show the UJ has broken off but none of them show the section that goes between the UJ and the sliding joint in the propshaft itself.

The first time mine decided it wasn't going to pull the clutch in, I measured the voltage at the compressor and found around 7V. This would only come on briefly as insufficient current was being drawn so the HEVAC disconnects the feed and doesn't try to engage it again. I cobbled together a few bits of wire and a relay to supply a full 12V to the compressor but that didn't work as the relay didn't draw sufficient current so I had the same problem, hence the reason why the TSB adds the resistor to increase the currant draw. My problem turned out to be corrosion in the 18 way connector behind the RH kick panel, 12V in but only 7V out. At that time, I simply put a link wire in place of the connector but cut it out and replaced the whole connector later. I've had no further problems and haven't seen the need to do the mod in the TSB. With the kickpanel connector cut out and a squirt of contact cleaner in the one under the reservoir and at the pressure switch, there's never been a problem. The same goes for the red 4.0SE I bought last year, checked the kickpanel connector for corrosion and gave all connectors a squirt of contact cleaner and it just works.

The other thing that can cause intermittent operation of the clutch, is the air gap on the clutch being too wide. If this is the case what usually happens it will operate fine when ambient is low but fails to kick in when it gets hotter (just when you need it). The air gap on mine was over 40 thou and it worked fine until the ambient got up to 23C, just when you start to need it. Spec says it should be between 16 and 31 thou but the smaller the better. It can be adjusted by taking a spacer out from behind the clutch front.

14mm doesn't fit well as they aren't metric, they are 9/16th AF.

You don't use a socket to change a UJ, unless you want one to press the end cap in with it in your bench vice. In that case you just need one that fits.

The bolts on the flange can't turn as a flat on the head bears against the side of the output flange. Same at the other end, you only need access to the visible bolt head or nut, not both ends.

Yes to the grant means that the HEVAC is trying to engage the clutch but with only 700 grams of R134a in there, the pressure switch will be open circuit so the clutch won't engage. It really does need a full charge, that is why you have nothing at pin 86 and when you force it in with the jumper you are only getting coldish air from the vents.

While on the subject of AC, I filled a diesel P38 yesterday which only takes 1100 grams. The owner has had the car for almost 10 years and never had working AC but was complaining that his kids weren't happy being driven around in a mobile greenhouse over the summer. I pressure tested it for him and the condenser was leaking. He replaced that and I put 10 bar of Nitrogen into it and unplugged the compressor so it didn't try and engage. 3 weeks later it still had 10 bar of Nitrogen, so we declared it good. With a full charge of refrigerant, the Nano reported an evaporator temperature of 4-6 C but air from the vents was reading around 10C. Another good reason for fixing the leaks in the ducting..... But of course now he has another problem, condensate pouring into the passenger footwell.

Yes, propshaft is simple enough, 4 bolts at each end. VC is fairly easily doable too. A bit tight with the crossmember in place and the hardest part is breaking the seal from the RTV. Easiest way, rather than trying to prise it off, is to knock it round so you twist it free.

If you get a propshaft it will come complete with the universal joints and flanges at each end. To put that amount of stress on it, I would suspect the viscous coupling in the transfer case is seized. That lives under the round cover on the front of the transfer case, where the front propshaft bolts on. Did the front tyres seems to skip across the road if you pulled away with the steering in full lock? That is a sure sign the VC is seized. In fact, if the VC is seized that is probably what caused the wear on the front tyres.

I don't know too much about the diesel, I steer well clear of them, but it was my understanding that a stretched cam chain was the usual cause of hot starting problems? This could be cured, for a time anyway, by rotating the injector pump to adjust the timing.

Not NLA or the Land Rover Classic site would show as NLA but it doesn't, it shows as not available to order online (https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/alr6939-seal-assembly-a-post-header.html), not cheap though. The JLR site has been showing lots of things not available recently, probably as a result of the system hack they suffered. They don't want people ordering stuff if their computer system won't tell them where in the warehouse to find it!

I had the Nanocom plugged into mine yesterday and the IAT was showing -1C when the HEVAC was showing an external temperature of 12C, so 13 degrees difference. I was taking readings to compare with the 4.0SE as that is still running like a dog on petrol (but perfectly on LPG). The 4.0SE was parked in the sun so showing 14C external and the IAT was showing 1C, so the same 13 degrees difference.

The regulator I got was one of these https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/hc-cargo-25072361.html which fits the Magnetti Marelli alternator fitted to the GEMS. Although a .co.uk website, the company are actually based in Germany so may ship to Australia or just Google the part number and see if you can find a local suppler (it is also used on a number of other cars so may be far more common than you think). You can't replace the commutator though and the only way you would be able to get a complete rotor would be from another alternator. In which case you may as well just fit the other alternator.....

My satnav is permanently wired and stuck on the bottom of the windscreen in much the same place as you have put the Carplay screen, just closer to the screen. You can run the wires towards the screen and the forward edge of the dashboard has a rubber on it that bears on the inside of the windscreen. That allows you to poke the wires down below that and run them to one side. For my satnav and dashcam (mounted at the top of the screen next to the rear view mirror), I installed an extra cigar lighter socket low down on the centre console side panel and ran the cable from that to a dual outlet cigar lighter socket tie wrapped to the wiring duct behind the knee panel so the two items are plugged into that. That way I can keep the cigar lighter/ashtray flap closed and not have any wires dangling over the top of the centre console unless I need to use one of the two USB sockets I've mounted inside the ashtray that is.

I've still got to mount the rear camera on the Aygo but when I do that I'll have another play with the line out (as the Aygo has an Aux in socket on the stereo) and see if I can identify why there was a constant crackle on the audio when using that. It sounded like GSM interference from the phone but that shouldn't be a problem these days with everything running UMTS and LTE. I'll try connecting my Android phone to it and see if it is an iPhone problem. If it is, that will give her the excuse she has been waiting for to replace her elderly iPhone with a newer one and just hope that cures it.

Not even sure you can get Cunifer in that size. I used 8mm OD copper central heating microbore pipe (off the shelf for a 10m roll in the local DIY shop) and 7.8mm ID good quality hose so gave a good tight fit. Had to use a smear of rubber grease on the ends of the pipes to get them to push into the hose and once in they sealed without any clips.

The pipe from the pump to the threaded end on the filter have a short length of flexi hose on them, so I cut that off leaving as much flexi as possible and connected to the copper pipe with decent quality stainless hose clips. I also cut the return pipe back to a non-rusted bit and joined that to the copper with a short length of hose and the same clips.