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Or it's for US spec ones and has a warning about things being closer than they look printed on it?

That sounds almost like the cable is out of adjustment. The XYZ switch sends the information to the display and BeCM but the cable actually sets the gears. If the gear the cable sets and the XYZ switch output don't match, it goes into limp mode. The adjustments for the XYZ switch assume the cable adjustment is correct and make the switch match the actual gear set by the cable. If the cable is out but the switch has been adjusted the gear the gearbox is in and the gear the switch is reporting are different.

Is the gearchange stiff or does it move through the gears freely?

I don't know of anywhere, I think it's one of those things that need to be grabbed from any cars that are being broken. The pressure switch is the same as that used on a Saab GM900 series, so maybe the pump is the same? The Classics with ABS also use the same pump.

If it doesn't run with power applied directly to it, it's dead.

First of all, make sure relay 17 is operating as soon as you turn the ignition on and supplying power to the pump on the Brown/Red wire. Power to relay 17 comes from Maxi fuse 3 so make sure that is good too. The pump only has two wires, power and ground so to test it, put power to the connection that would have the Brown/Red wire going to it and ground the other one (which would have had a Black wire going to it). Also check for a good ground connection on the Black wire.

So is this a test message before writing something sensible or a test message before flooding the forum with spam?

They have got to be joking!!!!!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133999221988

What I can't work out is what is the difference between CRD101240 and CRD101260, both described as Glass Assembly-Exterior Mirror RH Convex Electrochromatic Mirrors [ (V)YA430702 ], other than 260 is NLA from JLR but is available, and even more expensive, from LRDirect.

Not too bad, a lot easier than on a Thor. Once the fixings are undone (2 on each side but keep the magnet of a stick handy to lift the rear ones out), you lift and rotate it and out it comes.

As well as being in reverse, the engine has to be running otherwise you hold the Memory Store button to cancel the reverse dip feature.

Get a plain glass one like us commoners......

https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/mirror-glass-btr6072-p-1304.html

As Garvin says, it's the feedback pot in the mirror so it doesn't know where to return it to. If giving it a workout doesn't work, you can just turn the feature off.

The other problem with a slight leak is that it will only make itself known when the system is pressurised so only when hot. Then, if it is only a small leak, it will often evaporate before you can see where it is coming from so that is where a pressure test when cold really comes into its own.

I wrapped a load of PVC tape around a lump of heater hose so it was a tight fit into the neck of the reservoir. Then wrapped a load more around one of my EAS emergency Schrader valves so it jammed into the other end of the heater hose. I managed about 25 psi before it blew out but by pressurising it to 20 psi allowed me to spot a leaking core plug on the Ascot.

Passenger airbag might not be a bad idea to stop an SRS fault although on a later car it should clear once everything is back together anyway.

Do you mean you pulled the motor apart too? If you did you will see a plastic ring floating around behind the brushes that seems to do nothing. It doesn't once it's in but when putting the end back on you push the brushes back as far as they will go, then, with your third hand, lift the ring up so it holds the brushes back. Then you can slide the end into place and, as the commutator gets almost all the way in, it pushes the plastic ring back into the space behind the brushes and they spring back into place.

You could always calculate it using the gear ratios, the transfer case ratios, the diff ratios and the rolling circumference of the tyres......

Not sure how accurate you could get it though.

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No, you won't damage a Calcium battery if you charge at up to 14.8V but it still achieve full charge if you give it anything more than around 13.8V.

This https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/14V-Bosch-Type-Alternator-Regulator-AUDI-BMW-FIAT-FORD-PORSCHE-SEAT-VW-VOLVO-/183895830413 looks to be the correct one for your alternator (but check the list to be sure).

Not that many manuals about and I doubt you can get an auto into top at 20mph, torque converter certainly won't be locked up at that speed. How do you intend offending the Lord Mayor of London? I want to ask why a taxi converted to run on LPG can be exempt from the ULEZ charge yet a privately owned car converted to run on LPG isn't. Wasn't a problem when it was only the very centre matching the CC zone but now it stretches out to the North and South Circular roads, I'd even cop for the charge if I called in at Beckton Sainsburys for a tankful of LPG (or wanted to visit my step daughter in Rotherhithe).....

I have......

It's down a hole where that cutaway bit is. Imperial size too just to confuse everyone although the nearest metric with a dob of grinding paste on the end usually fits well enough.