One other thing you can check which can cause a similar noise is the flywheel. The noise will sound like it is coming from everywhere and anywhere but will be louder from underneath the car. On a GEMS you've got the tags that sit either side of the crank position sensor and it is easy to bend them slightly when doing the flex plate bolts up. Drop the lower cover off and slowly turn the engine over with a big screwdriver in the ring gear. You are looking for a tag that is slightly out of line with all the others.

If the oil has been in there while it has been standing, a change isn't a bad idea anyway. If you put some high detergent oil through it, something intended for use in a diesel, that should wash out any residue or gum.

Definitely sounds like lifters to me or a worn rocker or rocker shaft. I agree it is at camshaft speed. If it was a hydraulic lifter leaking down, it would be worse on initial start up and then get quieter as the oil pressure builds up. What oil do you have in it? If it is too thin, it may be OK when cold but thins down too much when it gets hot and the oil pressure drops. Anything less than 10W-40 is too thin.

Does the little flap close over the keyhole? That flap is what operates the microswitch so if that is sticking that is why you are still getting the message.

When you turn the key to the off position, the centre of the barrel should pop out by a millimetre or so and you hear the clunk from the steering lock. As it moves out, it operates a microswitch. What happens is it doesn't fully pop out so the switch doesn't operate and the steering lock doesn't engage.

Spray brake cleaner into the lock and work the key in and out a few times. Keep doing that until it returns fully every time. Then, once the brake cleaner has evaporated, spray some graphite powder into the lock to lube it. Don't use anything like an oil or WD40 as dust will stick to that and it will gum up again.

Yes, after 3 minutes of the brake on, it will move. If less than that, it sits there showing Motorway height steady and Standard flashing and rises as soon as you come off the brake. Whether it will drop to Access after 3 minutes though I've no idea and have never tried (although will now).

No, or at least there's no setting for it, so it doesn't look like it.

I've got a query that has intrigued me for a while too. Why is EAS movement inhibited when the brakes are on? I can understand why it won't move with a door open as you wouldn't want to lower to Access if you have a door open and you are parked next to a high kerb or similar or you could crunch the bottom of the door. But if you pull up and want to drop to Access to allow someone to get in, you have to put it into Park and take your foot off the brake pedal. It would be so much more convenient if you could just stop, drop it, allow your passenger to get in and then drive off (I'm thinking airport pick up and drop off where they only give you milliseconds to get in and out).

I hadn't noticed that the gearchange wasn't as smooth as it should be until I drove the red one and thought it was smoother than mine which is what made me check the fluid level in the first place. Now it does definitely feel smoother. Torque converter lock up happens earlier too.

That is one thing that has always intrigued me. I live just over half a mile from the A1(M) so all of my journeys start with a slow run through the village before getting on the motorway. If I sit at around 60mph, after 2 or 3 miles, the torque converter lock up can be felt and the revs drop by a couple of hundred but at the same time the exhaust note changes as if I've given it more throttle, even though I haven't, and it starts to slowly accelerate. That is now happening sooner than it was. You can tell if lock up has happened. If you lift off the throttle and the revs drop, it hasn't, once it does the revs remain the same.

Spent the weekend doing a bit of a service on the gearbox. Recently checked the fluid level and wasn't happy with what I saw. Rather than being a nice red colour, the fluid on the dipstick was the colour of strawberry milkshake. Then realised it was self inflicted. The difference between min and max on the gearbox dipstick on a GEMS is only 250ml but I had previously assumed it was 1 litre so had inadvertently overfilled it. That meant that the excess was being blown out of the breather which is at the bulkhead on the far left of the car and I had fluid dripping off the front mudflap, not a good look. I put a small catch bottle to collect it and forgot all about it. Unfortunately, it had also been catching rainwater so the end of the breather was under water meaning that when hot, air and excess fluid was blown out of the breather but when it cooled down, it was drawing water into the gearbox.

Removed the catch bottle, bought 5 litres of fluid, drained it out, refilled with fresh but after the engine had been run for a short time, it was better but still not clear as it should be. The whole gearbox/cooler/pipes and torque converter holds 11 litres but when draining it, only 6 comes out. What came out didn't look pretty though.....

While poking around I also noticed it was damp at the front left corner of the car and it appeared that the transmission cooler had a slight leak. One thing that I dislike intently is a car that leaves drips underneath it so although it hadn't got that far, it would do eventually so decided I would do that too. Dropped Dave Ashcroft an email asking if there was a way of flushing the system and his advice was to drain it, refill, run for 100 miles or so, then drain and refill until it is clear again. Ordered a cooler and 20 litres of Dexron 3 and set to it on Saturday. Figured that as well as draining the gearbox, this would also drain the pipes and cooler, which it did, all over the ground under the car.....

Using a hand pump, pumped fresh fluid down both pipes with the drain plug out of the gearbox so that would flush the pipes too. Went to fit the new cooler only to find that it didn't have the holes for the self tapping screws that hold the temperature sensor to the side. Oddly, RAVE doesn't mention this sensor when talking about changing the cooler on a pre-99 car but does on a 99 or later yet both of my 98 cars have it. Had to grind the heads off the screws holding it on to the old cooler and then try to work out a way of fixing it to the new one. The only way seemed to be with self tapping screws but drilling holes in the end of the new cooler that would be deep enough for a self tapper to grab without drilling right through and causing a leak is a twitchy bum moment..... Having recently put together a gaming computer for my step daughter, had a big bag of short self tappers and a tube of silver heatsink compound so that sorted the sensor. By which time it was getting dark so gave up for the day.

Sunday morning fitted the new cooler coating all the bolts with Graphite grease so should I ever need to take them out again, they won't be seized in place. New O rings, do up the unions and, before going any further, started filling it with fluid. Being wary of overfilling it again, put 7 litres in so that allowed for 1 litre in the cooler and pipes. Started it, checked for leaks and checked the level after cycling through the gears and the dipstick showed nothing. Switch off, put another half litre in, still nothing so kept going at half a litre a time until it was up to the max. That used up the first 10 litre drum of fluid but although the fluid does look slightly opaque it is nothing like as bad as it was, so a couple more drain and refills and it should be back to how it should be. I've still got another 10 litres of fluid so will be doing that over the next few days.

Cable ties will be fine. The reservoir is surrounded by so may other bits of car that it will never fall out even if not held in with anything.....

Absolutely no idea but as your friends car is running fine, then ignore it.

That's what RAVE says......

It's C192 on a pre 98 car (so you are looking at the wrong version of the ETM), on a later one like yours, it's designated as C0620 and the ETM appears to show it as plugging into the sensor and not on a flying lead (although pics of the sensor online show it to have a flying lead?).

If you have unplugged it, has that stopped the warning message? What colour wires do you have on the plug as there are other sensors around the front (autobox temperature sensor and possibly a sensor on the AC condenser) that also use blue 2 way connectors. You should have Yellow/Black and Black/Purple.

Diagram doesn't show whether switch closed or open is showing full, so if unplugged stops the low level warning, shorting the plug will bring it back. The other thing that stops if it thinks it is getting low is the timed wash, it only washes while you are pressing the button.

I spoke to Marty a couple of weeks ago and he has done it. He has a prototype programmable key that will work with his test bench BeCM but he needs to redesign the circuit board so it will fit into a P38 flip case. So rather than programming an existing key, he can program a new key to whatever code is needed. He's got no idea how long it will be before he can offer them though, his day job is taking up a lot of time at the moment.

As I mentioned to you last week, you've got multiple options but for the benefit of others, I'll list them here. The one thing to note is that the keys CANNOT be reprogrammed, but the car can be programmed to match the keys.

There's two important numbers for a key, the Lockset Barcode which gives details of the fob code (which needs to be in the BeCM so the fob will work) and the pattern number for the cutting of the actual key blade.

If you can get the fob code (the code that the remote sends to the BeCM) from the replacement keys, either by decoding the Lockset Barcode or having them read (Les at CRNW will be able to do this), the BeCM can be unlocked and the replacement fob code stored in it. You can then knock out the small Mills pin on your existing key to remove the blade and fit it in the replacement fob. As you only have one 'donor' key, you would need to get another cut to fit into the other fob (City Locks in Peterborough had 2 left in stock when I got a pair cut for the red 4.0SE). That will give you working fobs and keys but they will be a mix and match, Fob from one car but mechanical keyblade from another. .

Or, do as above but change the locks on the car (door, ignition and glovebox) to match the replacement keys. Then, as long as you keep a note of the VIN or Lockset Barcode from the replacement key source, you will be able to order a replacement key/fob should you ever need one.

Next option, change the locks so the keys fit but rather than reprogramming the BeCM, use the BeCM from the same car that the keys came from so the stored fob code will be correct. As long as the mileage stored in the replacement BeCM is lower than that stored in your instrument cluster, it won't update your mileage. You will get an odometer error but a couple of minutes with the Nanocom will sync the two mileages to whichever is higher. A Nanocom will also be needed to read the mobilisation code from the engine ECU and write it into the BeCM so the car will start. Again you will have given your car the identity of the donor car. The only thing that won't match is the BeCM has the last 6 digits of the VIN stored in it so that will still show the VIN of the donor car and not yours.

Last first. I recently fitted a Kenwood DAB radio in the recently purchased red 4.0SE (an almost identical one to what I have in my car). Rather than knocking up a set of attenuators and trying to fit them somewhere, I bypassed the door amps and installed cheap eBay 2 way crossovers instead (these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/296953938142). Snipped and insulated the power and turn on signal wires and fitted the crossovers using one of the original mounts that the amps had been screwed to. I also installed a PAC-SWI-RC unit so the steering wheel buttons still work, volume up and down with the Mode button programmed to answer a hands free call and the other two to step through the station memories.

DAB aerial is on the far left (passenger) side of the windscreen about halfway up. That way it isn't shielded by the heating element as that doesn't go right to the very edge of the screen. Works just as well as the amplified whip I've got on the roof of mine. No need to drop the headlining to run a cable from back to front, just pull the door rubbers down at the top and shove it in above the edge of the headlining.

Not sure about losing Waze when taking a call but I suspect you won't. I have a Garmin sat nav with live traffic via an app on my phone and linked with Bluetooth to the say nav so ordinarily I wouldn't need to use Waze or Google maps on my phone but did once. Driving back from SW France on a weekend the French farmers decided to block the Autoroutes. As the blockages were moving, the Garmain app couldn't always keep up with the closures so I ran Google Maps on the phone and guessed which one of the two was keeping me pointing in the right direction. The phone was streaming music over Bluetooth to the Kenwood stereo in the car with the Maps announcements causing that to mute when giving directions but the map display was still working. When receiving or making a call, the mapping continued to work, including the announcements which didn't fully mute the call, just reduced the volume a bit. So I had Garmin telling me to go one way, Google maps telling me to go another and Dina at home on the phone looking at where I was on Google Maps and making further suggestions..... Still took me 12 hours to do a 7 hour journey.

My Garmin sat nav also has a Bluetooth linked reversing camera too, It will only work with the genuine Garmin camera at around £130, but it works very nicely.

For charging the phone, I've got a couple of USB ports in the ashtray so are covered up when not in use. Could you not put your connection in there for your media player rather than on top of the dash to make for a neater install?

There is no adjustment other than on the striker plate. If you mean the door handles are stiff, that is due to wear (see the sticky on repairing stiff door handles) although you may find that a bit of lube inside the handle helps.

It does look like it is pin 11 on C0793 which is the 20 way one on the RH side. However, according to the description, it is fed with an "Inverse Pulse Width Modulated" signal so quite what it expects to see, I've no idea. I would pull the HEVAC out of a working car and test what voltage is supplied on that pin (Orange wire).