Do you have any diagnostics? Chances are the stored throttle position sensor voltage are lower than the actual voltage so it needs the adaptive values resetting.
My garage has a concrete floor but it is full of another car and all my kit for doing AC installations, so no chance of working in there. It's also a standard UK sized garage so I doubt a P38 would go in it and even if it did, you'd have to crawl out the tailgate as the doors wouldn't open far enough to get out of the car. The driveway is gravel so I have some gym floor mats to lay on, thermal weatherproof overalls, thermal gloves and a tarp that can cover everything, including the car and me. Not ideal and I would really like a, at least, double width garage with enough headroom for a two post lift but that will have to wait until a lottery win comes my way (which would be difficult as I don't do the lottery....).
Not really, think about it from their point of view. You (or they) supply a replacement engine so all that is involved is the labour involved in taking one out and putting another in compared with the labour costs of them stripping the engine and doing whatever is needed. If they have someone capable of doing it that is as most modern mechanics are simply parts fitters.
I would take the head off so that can be checked and then have a look at the bore for any scoring in it. It's a simple enough job to drop the sump if you jack the front of the car up so it gives lots of clearance between the bottom of the engine and the front axle. Then with the head and sump off you can pull the one piston out. If it is a piston ring and there is light scoring on the bore, that can be taken out with a hone, a new set of rings and put it back in (with new big end shells obviously).
One car I bought (a 97 4.0SE) had a similar problem on cylinder 2 which was a broken compression ring. Head off, sump off, pull that piston out, hone the bore (checking that it didn't exceed the 94.04mm maximum bore size), fit new rings, drop the piston back in and put it all back together.
If the pressure on a leak down test is leaking into the crankcase and not into the coolant passages, it isn't likely to be a leak around the liner so no need to take the engine out..
If you have no compression at all, I wouldn't be looking at a piston or ring. Unless the piston has a hole in it, you would still have some compression, it would be down but there would still be something. I would suspect something in the top end, either a burnt valve (pretty unlikely) or a broken valve spring so a valve is never closing fully. I would pull the head off first, if you even need go that far, you'd see a broken valve spring as soon as you get the rocker cover off.
Depending on whether you intend doing it yourself or paying someone else to do it, even if you have a holed piston, it isn't going to be too expensive and can all be done with the engine in the car. Even an engine swap is pretty straightforward and you would only need an engine crane or something to attach a winch to so you can lift one out and drop the other one in.
Back windows and sunroof not installed or not set? If they are not set they just need setting. Press the button to wind them all the way down, hold the button for a couple of seconds, then wind all the way up, hold the button again and the dash should beep and tell you windows set. Do the same with the sunroof, wind it all the way back, then all the way forward then tilt up and tilt back down. That should set them.
The relays are nothing special, just standard 30A relays. Better to replace with 40A ones. I use these https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p/12-volt-relay-make-and-break, product 140250. For the green changeover relays, use https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p/12-volt-relay-change-over product 140251. There is no duty to pay on shipping to EU if the total order value is under £120.
Yes, if you were able to turn the front output, the viscous is OK, if you couldn't, it's seized.
The error you are getting is showing that the resistor in the loom isn't simulating the load from the compressor clutch. Pre-99 HEVACs drove the clutch directly and checked that sufficient current was being drawn so it knew that the clutch was pulling in. That is why the loom includes a big resistor to give a load to the HEVAC to keep it happy. If it detects that insufficient current is being drawn it will try to pull in the clutch, see that insufficient current is being drawn and immediately drop out. It will not try to pull the clutch in again until it has been reset by being turned off and back on again.
Later ones did not have the current sensing as they are only intended to pull in a relay so the factory versions didn't have, or need, the resistor.
If the evaporator temperature was going down to a couple of degrees and then the compressor clutch disengaged, did it re-engage once the temperature got up to 5 or 6 degrees? That is how it should work.
Don't fall into the trap that others have by misunderstanding what the AC Off button does. It does what it says it does, it turns the AC OFF. So if pressed with the light on that means the AC is OFF (the light is to warn you that the AC isn't working). With the button not pressed so the light is off, it means AC is ON.
Where did you find the info regarding a 30k Ohm thermistor for the heater core sensor? I read somewhere that it should be 22k and fitted one of those only to find it reads low so put a 10k resistor in parallel with it and it reads something like correct but in another thread somewhere that linked to a post on Landyzone, they said that a 10k Ohm would give accurate readings.
A hot small pipe but not cold thick pipe, suggests something not right in the refrigerant circuit but you need to be able to read the pressures to work out what. Have a look on Amazon, they are cheap enough, https://www.amazon.co.uk/TKSE-Diagnostic-Refrigerant-Functional-Refrigeration/dp/B0D6W9SC55/ref=sr_1_2_sspa just make sure you get one with the R134a port connectors or they alone will cost the same again.
Yes, that is correct. If you look at how the transfer case works, direct drive from the gearbox goes the the rear output while the drive from there goes to the front via the viscous coupling. So you are only checking the bit between the two outputs.
It won't matter, you are checking for movement between the front and rear propshaft outputs. So you want it to be in Park with both rear wheels on the ground and/or with the parking brake on. That way the rear output can't move and, if the viscous is good, you should be able to move it slowly. If it isn't possible to turn the front output while the rear is locked, the viscous is seized.
Well they are fitted, the calibration blocks have been put in and the readings from them are only 2 or 3 bits different to what was stored with the original sensors. The heatshields had fallen to pieces and the remains fell off years ago, so after Clive's warning, made a couple up from thin sheet alloy.
Pete12345 wrote:
Strange they act like a variable resistor if they have electronics inside ?
That was my thought. I would assume they would need some sort of voltage there to make them work and I suspect the voltage from my Philips bench multimeter wouldn't be enough.
Maxi fuse 2 supplies the starter motor relay and the air suspension compressor, so I assume it has been converted to coils springs as well as the other 'fixes'. You are absolutely right, it would have been far cheaper to repair it properly than bodge it. Assuming the car is 99 or later, you are correct, relay 2 is for the cooling fan but I'm not sure about relay 10.
As per my post here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1620-what-have-you-done-to-your-range-rover-today?page=84#pid45404 I ordered a pair of the Rimmer Bros Aftermarket front height sensors and they were delivered a couple of hours ago. They came in Eurospares branded boxes and the first thing I noticed was that they move much easier than the originals making me think that maybe the wiper isn't quite as tight on the track as the originals. However, checked the resistance from them and it was identical to the one good remaining spare original I had. Then while looking at the box, they are marked as ANR4686ES and described as Front Height Sensor with Melexis Chip. A quick Google on Melexis chip shows that it is an angle sensor so it looks as though these are an electronic version of the original rheostat ones.
Much like what you have made......
No not quite. If all doors lock when you push the button on the top of the door inside the car down, the CDL switch is working. Pushing that button down mechanically locks that door but also operates the CDL switch which signals the BeCM to lock the other doors. Not using the keyfob, that electrically locks all doors and the CDL switch isn't used (other than to enable the tailgate).
When unlocking with the key, a ground is put on the wire from the keyswitch and on the wire from the CDL switch, when locking the ground is only put on the keyswitch. With the sill locking button up, so the car is unlocked, there should be a permanent ground on the Green/Red wire from the CDL switch. If the sill locking button is pushed down to lock the doors, that ground will go off. The RH door, which in your case is the passenger door, works the same (except it doesn't have a keyswitch) and this is the same ground that goes to the tailgate so it will open if the RH front door is unlocked but not when it is locked.
So, with the door open but with the latch closed so everything thinks the door is closed, simultaneously ground the CDL (Green/Red) wire and the keyswitch wire (Blue/Red) then take the ground off the keyswitch wire but leave the CDL switch wire grounded. Then release the door latch so it appears that you have opened the door and start the engine. That should take the alarm and immobiliser off and it might be possible to start the car on the key.
When the car is immobilised, the signal from the ignition switch to the starter relay is interrupted in the BeCM so your pushbutton will be bypassing the BeCM. Depending if the existing wiring has been cut or just had the wires for the pushbutton tied into them it may or may not work as it should. Quite what has been done so that it still runs with the alarm on I have no idea (as I don't know how the immobiliser works on a diese) but what relays have been removed?
If it went off and then came back in 30 seconds, you have passive immobilisation enabled. If you unlock the doors that will turn off the immobiliser and alarm but if you don't start the engine within 30 seconds, they come back on again. When everything is working correctly, as soon as you put the key in the ignition, the coil around the lock barrel causes the remote to send an unlock code to turn them off again.
So if you do what you did to turn them off (that would normally be a ground on the keyswitch and CDL switch simultaneously and then leave the CDL switch grounded (or it will lock all the doors again) and then start the engine, the alarm and immobiliser should stay off.
But still a lot cheaper than the same thing but in a Land Rover bag https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-FQJ103250
But if the CDL switch has failed, it won't cause the other doors to lock.....
Hmm, that took some finding as search seems to have a problem in as much as it isn't returning any results prior to this year. But, how to change the bulbs in the dashboard switches.
To get the switches out you need to push them out from behind. Drop the knee panel, undo the 4 screws that hold the instrument cluster surround in and pull that towards you. That will give you access to one of the screws that holds the centre switch panel in place. If you have the original stereo, remove the surround (it just clicks off) and take out the 2 screws either side of the stereo, then you should be left with one more screw on the passenger side and the whole thing will pull towards you and you can get your fingers behind the panel and push the switches out. Once out you can unplug them and you'll see the bulbs on the side of the switches. Turn them anticlockwise and they come out. That then lets you get to the bulbs themselves.
The dash switch bulbs are STC1877 for the orange ones (https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=stc1877) stupidly expensive but the green ones are STC1878 and are even more (https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=stc1878) but are just a plastic housing with a wire ended bulb. The bulbs can be bought from CPC (https://cpc.farnell.com/sli-ebt/7219-004/wire-ended-3mm-12v-1-9-lumens/dp/SC00339) at under £4 for a pack of 5 or Mouser (https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/606-CM7219) at roughly the same price but sold singly. I have a feeling that Mouser have a presence in EU too as a friend in France buys a lot of stuff from them. All you need do is unwrap the wire on the original bulb from the housing and pull it out, carefully remove the coloured cover, fit that to the new bulb and fit it into the holder, wrap the wire around the holder (the first time you do it, have two of them out, one to fit the bulb to and one to see how the wire wraps around the holder, and then then snip off the excess wire. The only one that is different is the one for the Hazard light switch as it doesn't have the coloured 'condom' on it, just plain white.
As they say in all the best books, reassembly is the reverse of the above.....