I would think you won't have a problem with the thinner walled hose. It's not like it running at any huge pressure. I suspect the first lot I bought that has been on my car for about 3 years (which for me is over 60,000 miles) is the thinner walled stuff the same as you have. When I ordered the second lot they said they didn't have any black or blue but could supply red and that is thicker wall which makes it thicker overall and not as easy to route.
Just got home, great time had by all I think. Not as well attended as previous ones but I think everyone got everything done they needed to. Rick, I've realised where the two spare self tappers go. Either side of the glovebox surround. You've got the three along the top and then one each side a bit lower down. I only realised because one of the leftovers was rusty and I remember taking that one out on the side nearest the centre console
We found the same on Rick's car when checking it after fitting the new blend motors. Initially it was reading 19 degrees, which with the engine running and a nice hot pipe, seemed a little on the low side. Wiggling the connector on it and it dropped to -20, then with another wiggle started to read 50+ degrees which seemed about right. So it does appear that the connector is the weak point.
So, you wanted pictures and here's a few from me. Others took more, the best being Rick's blend motor.....
However, this was the scene that greeted me when I arrived on Saturday morning
Within minutes, David (DavidAll) and David (Rutland Rover) got stuck into removing the radius arms from David's (RR David) car
First one off, new bushes fitted and ready to go back on
However, Morat was sorely missed. Two axle stands don't make a good support for a barbecue (fortunately after the burgers had been cooked)
and it didn't get any better at lunchtime today when we failed dismally to get a disposable barbecue lit and Rick ended up diving down to Tesco to get another.....
However, despite the odd little setback, both Davids got new radius arm bushes pressed in, as did I (which is a whole new thread on it's own). David (RR) also got his heater core O rings changed while Rick (Rcutler) got new O rings and a set of new blend motors. While we were getting stuck into that lot, Marty and Nick (Sloth) got loads of little jobs done on their cars when not operating the press for the bushes.
I thought they only ever fitted SUs but someone may have swapped them for Strombergs which are the only other dashpot style carb I know of.
Upload the photo to imgur.com, in your post put the cursor where you want the photo to appear, click the add image button (fifth one across that looks like a picture in a frame) and a box pops up asking for a URL, in imgur click the image, then select Direct Link on teh right and click the copy button, paste that link into the box asking for a URL. It will show the code in your message but when you post the reply the images will show in the post (you can also preview it to make sure you got it right).
I'd rather do heater O rings any day compared with exhaust manifold gaskets. On a RHD, the very back bolt on the RH manifold is a real pain to get to so I would assume the LH one is similar for you.
Having just changed my (and others) radius arm bushes here's a few observations for anyone considering poly bushes.
1, The yellow Britpart ones have a reputation to wearing out and turning to dust within a few months (no idea about the black or blue ones but I suspect they will be much the same as the yellow or orange ones).
2, My car was fitted with the supposedly far superior orange poly bushes (the ones that cost about 4 times the price of genuine original bushes). They've lasted quite a long time and many miles, but although the car didn't exhibit any of the usual complaints of wandering steering, vibrations or anything like that, it has always felt like the front tyre pressures were too high over small bumps and uneven surfaces even though the ride was fine on smooth surfaces. Having now changed to standard bushes, the steering is more responsive, the ride over uneven surfaces is vastly improved and the whole car feels much smoother.
3, The poly bushes are an absolute pain to remove. It took Marty's 20 ton press, a number of different sized mandrels, hacksaws, hole cutters and just about everything else we could find short of burning them out, to remove them from the radius arms. When we finally got them out, we found that they also allow moisture to get between the bush and the arm so rather than pushing the old ones out and finding a nice clean shiny hole, the inside of the radius arms were rusted to hell. It took a rotary wire brush to clean the surface, a punch and hammer to knock the rust scale off the inside of the radius arm and emery cloth to clean them up before they were smooth enough to press the new bushes in.
So the moral of this is poly bushes should be put into the same category as coil spring conversions, don't even consider them.
Was the one with the seized bolt also the most rusty bush hole?
No, all the bush holes were as bad as each other, all rusted to hell and full of scale that I had to carefully break out with a punch and hammer. We were a bit concerned that it would leave the hole too big for the new bushes to fit properly but they still needed a fair amount of grunt to press them in so I don't think they'll be going anywhere.
So, the million dollar questions - did replacing your radius arm bushes improve your P38s? Was it all worth it? :)
See here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1335-3-reasons-why-you-shouldn-t-use-poly-bushes?page=1.0#pid19682, I didn't think there was anything wrong with mine but swapping from polys to OE has made a hell of a difference.
The way they started to melt as soon as they got remotely warm, I reckon a blowlamp would have been the easiest way of removing them. If only one of us had thought of bringing one, we'd have been able to light the Sunday lunch barbecue too I would think.
Only one of them though. I've got one of Marty's spares(with my new bushes) on the nearside and my original one on the offside after it finally succumbed to much brute force and butchery. Still had to chip the scale out of both holes before the new bushes could be pressed in though.
Oddly, they hadn't deformed much and the central hole was still in the centre. Even after pressing the central tube out the poly bits still didn't want to give up.
Depends on whether it behaves like nylon or delrin.
Problem is it behaved more like marshmallow! Not like plastic at all, very soft and squidgy but also very tough to cut with anything.
But with it blanked, there's no path back to the header tank for any air trapped in the inlet manifold. Think about it, that's one of the highest points in the cooling system so air is going to sit there. Anything trapped in the heater hoses will get pushed through by the water pump and end up in the header, any in the radiator will do the same through the bleed hose but any in the top of the engine has nowhere to go.
(And I am sure it must be mentioned elsewhere but I do wish LR had written that "passive immobilisation" is simply
just a fancy name for having an RF pick-up coil aroud the ignition barrel..... ie 'passive' is basically a misnomer too !
But it isn't. It is passive in as much as the immobiliser kicks in if you unlock the door but don't start the engine within a set time so it is passive as it doesn't require any input from the driver, it is merely timed. There's a number of ways the locking and immobilisation works.
If you unlock the car on the fob, the immobiliser is turned off and the doors unlocked but if you don't open a door within 30 seconds, the car will lock itself again and set the immobiliser. It assumes you pressed the button by accident and this prevents you unlocking the car with your key in your pocket and walking away leaving it unlocked.
If you unlock the car with the fob, open a door but don't start the engine within 30 seconds, one of two things will happen. If passive immobilisation is enabled on an early car, the immobiliser kicks in after 30 seconds and when you do eventually try to start the car the dash will display Press Remote or Enter Code. At this point you need to either press the unlock button on the fob again or enter the EKA code to turn the immobiliser off before it will let you start the car (there is a third option which is to get out of the car, close the doors, lock it with the fob, unlock it again with the fob and start it within 30 seconds).
On the later cars when you turn the ignition on, the coil around the ignition sends a magnetic pulse which is picked up by the large surface mount Inductor on the end of the fob PCB which causes the fob to automatically transmit the unlock code. This is picked up by the receiver mounted under the RH rear parcel shelf just the same as when you unlocked it. So it isn't an RF pick-up coil at all, it is there purely to generate a magnetic field. You can see it operate as the LED on the fob will flash when you turn the key in the ignition.
If passive immobilisation is turned off in the BeCM, then you can unlock the car and as long as you open a door within 30 seconds, it doesn't matter how long you wait before trying to start the car, the immobiliser was turned off when you unlocked it and it doesn't turn back on. In that case, you will never get the Press Remote of Enter Code message on an early car and the fob will not transmit when in the ignition on a later one.
I'm not happy David, I knew I was going grey but not bald as well.......
As Britpart don't make orange ones but Polybush do, I assume the ones on mine were Polybush. They've lasted and the car didn't feel too bad, it's just that now I'm on genuine rubber ones, I realise just how much better it can be.
You need skinny hands and go in from underneath. It's fiddly getting the new rings on, but can be done. Did you remove the duct or just shove it out of the way? I always cut it off as high as possible so the lower part can be pulled out and then put if back with duct tape (probably the only time duct tape is ever used for what it is intended for)
That's right. The other thing that confuses people is that after you've added the pictures it still shows the command line when writing unless you hit the Preview button (hitting Preview again takes you back to writing mode).
Ahh, genuine ones then. They are sold singly compared with Allmakes ones that come in a pack of 5???
Be careful when cutting that you don't cut into the alloy coolant pipes behind. It has been done before, no names because he knows who he is......