As well as being a Moderator (and founding member on here) I am Admin on rr.net. In the past when an obviously AI generated reply was made I would delete it. However this one is being rolled out over all 1200 Verticalscope owned forums by the owners and no amount of complaining by users that it is not wanted are making any difference. All VS owned forums have the same corporate style and layout, so are easily recognised. For that reason, whenever I have a question on something different and search for a forum, if I find one with the VS style and one written using open source forum software, I will always go for the latter.

You are probably right, although the L320 owners seem to be of a similar ilk to the P38 owners and will get stuck in and fix things.

Blimey Pete, I'm not the only one logged into both sites at the same time.

Sorry, it's up to 80 now. Including one in the AI business who has pointed out that they are in breach of a number of laws in Canada where the owners of the site are based.

Although I was aware that he was being rolled out on a number of VS owned forums, when he first appeared I spam cleaned him which bans him and deletes all his posts. That lasted for about 4 days before I got a message saying that I should have left him and they had unbanned him and reinstated all his posts. They then offered to start a feedback thread so people could give their opinions but they hid it away in a art of the forum that nobody ever goes to. So I posted a link to it in the most used technical forums (P38, L320, L322 and L494). So far there are over 60 posts in it, not one in favour. One person asked him for Mahle part numbers for oil, pollen and air filters for his car. He gave the exact model, engine and year, Frank managed to get every single one wrong.

I wonder if it would be worth us adding L320 and L322 to here, we'd get an influx of new members once word got around. Considering Gilbertd got a lifetime ban from there for sending PM's to members suggesting they migrate over, I'm not sure how long I would last as Admin......

Does it still have the part number on it or has that been taken off?

From what I can see, there are no connections to move, all it needs is the 4 additional wires adding.

Just had a thought, I've got the Disco 2 diagrams so checked them. The version with the HK DSP amp does indeed have all four (left and right, front and rear) outputs from the head unit going to the amp. The rear inputs from the head unit go to pins 8 and 16 for the rear right channel and pins 29 and 37 for the rear left channel. If you look at the diagram in the thread I linked to, you'll see that these pins aren't used in the P38. So, in theory, two extra pairs of wires from the head unit to the amp and connected to those unused pins in the plug and it should work. In theory......

But if that is all that is needed, anyone with a dead DSP amp could buy the considerably cheaper and more readily available Disco amp and just fit that and add 4 bits of wire.

Just had a thought, I've got the Disco 2 diagrams so checked them. The version with the HK DSP amp does indeed have all four (left and right, front and rear) outputs from the head unit going to the amp. The rear inputs from the head unit go to pins 8 and 16 for the rear right channel and pins 29 and 37 for the rear left channel. If you look at the diagram in the thread I linked to, you'll see that these pins aren't used in the P38. So, in theory, two extra pairs of wires from the head unit to the amp and connected to those unused pins in the plug and it should work. In theory......

But if that is all that is needed, anyone with a dead DSP amp could buy the considerably cheaper and more readily available Disco amp and just fit that and add 4 bits of wire.

The P38 system only supplies left and right channels to the amp and signal is split inside the amp to feed the rear speakers. When installing Marty's alternative, you have to run additional wires from the rear outputs on the head unit (which are there just not used) to feed the amps that drive the rear speakers. Without a full circuit diagram I don't know if you would be able to run the additional wires to the Disco amp and make the rears work.

If you don't have the DSP features, it sounds almost as if they have done a similar job to Marty (who used 4 door amps from earlier pre-DSP cars) or something similar to what I have all the bits to put together but just haven't got around to it (see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/8-info-p38-alpine-dsp-amp-connections-and-wiring?page=1#pid30814) rather than supplying a DSP amp.

Did you get the exact replacement? A DSP amp from a Disco has a very similar part number and will work in a P38 but with front speakers only.

Mine has had the clicky pedal ever since I have owned it, it is only just recently another strange thing has occurred (very long pedal after 120 miles without touching the brakes). As with any brake issues, the first thing to do is to bleed the brakes following the full RAVE process and see if it goes away. If you are left with just the clicky feel, I would ignore it as I have with mine. It may be a symptom of the broken plastic bit or it may just be a bit of wear at the point the pedal joins the brake actuator rod.

You can fit the later unit but that is quite a process as the later ones have 4 wheel traction control so you have to change the ECU and do some wiring mods. A full write up of what you need to do is here https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DBMo28K-ZaOw6bn9xa5Ze8yjAuVOPe2V/view?usp=sharing

I also wondered about getting a later modulator with the stainless washers and swapping just them over into an earlier modulator rather than spending around £150 on the kit. No idea how feasible that is and I would need a pair on modulators to strip down side by side. I have a non-TC modulator from a base spec car and was going to pull that apart but someone wants it so I've said he can have it as they are so rare with so few base spec cars having been made.

Chrisp38 wrote:

It was 6 degrees at 5am earlier this week

I wouldn't know, I'm retired so 5am is the middle of the night for me. Although mine behaved itself when I went to the in-laws in Latvia in December and never saw anything higher than -3C for over a week. The only thing I used to have in the cold was mixing bits on the HEVAC display which would slowly come back as the interior warmed up. That was before I did the zebra strip though so it no longer does it.

Not sure about where you are but maybe because after a couple of colder days the weather has got warmer again? It has in my area anyway.

Squirting the lock won't do anything as the actual switch is a separate item on the back of the lock and the lube won't ever get that far. You've nothing to lose by checking the connections on the underside of the fusebox and on the feeds at the BeCM studs too.

It's an interesting one and I'll let you know when I've found it. Mine has done similar 4 times now but not when driving. My missus has a habit of opening the door to get out of the car just as I'm pulling up. 3 times over the last few months, as she has opened the door, the stereo goes off and reboots and I've also had the initial start up message, in my case, a single beep and Fuse 20 blown (which is another story, Fuse 20 isn't blown and even if it was it wouldn't matter as it powers the passenger electric seat I don't have). A couple of weeks ago it did it when I opened my door before switching the engine off too. It would all point to a bad connection somewhere so something momentarily cuts the power and, in my case, could possibly tied in with the interior lights or door outstation supplies. With it cutting the stereo but not affecting the engine running, it would be the accessory supply rather than the ignition switched supply.

My fusebox was brand new about 5 years ago (when you could still buy them for just over £100) and I've got a replacement BeCM power board to put in to get rid of the Fuse 20 blown message (a nit uncommon problem caused by an open circuit resistor on the voltage sensing circuit) and was thinking that may cure it. But in saying that, it will be months before I will be able to say that it has cured it as it is so intermittent. Proving something is no longer happening is like proving a negative though. Just because it doesn't do it for months doesn't mean it has been cured, just that it hasn't done it for months.

I assume the Duchess has the DSP amp? If it has, there are two fuses that supply permanent live to it, fuse 1, which also supplies the head unit, the clock, instrument cluster, window switchpack amongst others and pulling that one causes the radio to lose any stored settings and the trip computer to resent to zero, and fuse 15 which also supplies some of the interior lights and the tailgate latch. So probably better to pull fuse 15 initially.

Looks a very nice job to me. In theory the only weak point now would be the electrical connections as there's no physical pot and wiper to wear. What is that you've used to secure it to the trailing arm?

You've got 3 wires to the inertia switch, a White/Orange Which supplies the power to it from the fuel pump relay, a White/Blue which sends that power to the fuel pump when the inertia switch isn't tripped, but when it trips that White/Blue is connected to the White/Purple which goes to the BeCM to tell it that the switch has tripped. As the BeCM will see a ground via the pump, it is that ground that it is looking for. That suggests that there is a wiring fault (or an internal fault in the inertia switch) so there is a ground on the White/Purple wire. There's no connections between the two, just a wire that goes directly to pin 2 of C1289 at the BeCM. This is a green 20 way connector on the front of the BeCM, 2nd one in from the left on the lower row.

Have a look at the pictures in this thread https://rangerovers.pub/topic/3864-no-blower-air-to-windscreen, unlike the temperature blend motors which only move one flap, the distribution motor is moving 3 so there's more bits that need lubrication.