The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
Gilbertd's Avatar
7927 posts

If it is coming out of the little vent hose and not the exhaust silencer, that would suggest a problem with the diaphragm valve. Has the valve block been apart?

Or just bungy it to the gear lever. Yes, the steering wheel is heavier at one side so if you don't tie it, it turns all on its own as soon as the column is disconnected, Then you've got to try to get it back on in the same place or your steering wheel is on the piss and there's a danger of buggering up the clockspring thing.

More a don't skimp on an expensive car, particularly when we can charge £3 each for 50p copper washers. Yes, they are standard banjo copper washers but when I changed my steering box I reused the ones that were on it and they don't leak.

Make sure the one you've got to go on is complete with the Pitman arm as taking one of those off needs about 4 people to hold it steady while someone else belts it with a sledge hammer. RAVE says to take the washer reservoir out but I found that undoing the securing bolts and shoving it forwards gives enough clearance. Tie the steering wheel where it is as it will turn when you disconnect the steering column at the steering box. Don't have the steering lock on or there will almost certainly be tension on the splines so it won't slide off easily. Give both splines a good dosing with Plug Gas and a small tapered chisel in the slot increases the chances of it coming off. I used a wedge type ball joint splitter to get it to start moving away from the box. Destroyed the plastic ring with the centre marks on it but as it was scrap anyway it doesn't matter. A simple enough job even if it is bloody heavy and a bit awkward.

Out of balance front wheels can be felt through the steering, but with rear wheels you don't feel a lot through the steering wheel, you feel it through the seat of your pants.

What makes you think it is the rear propshaft? Out of balance rear wheels tend to hit resonance around 55-60 mph (88-96kph) and that can be felt through the whole car.

Exhaust solenoid or clogged exhaust filter?

That's true, diagnostic line goes through the timer relay on the extra pins.

On a V8 it isn't built into the radiator, it's in front of it. There's the radiator and in front of that is the AC condenser with the engine and gearbox oil coolers sandwiched in between. On the diesel the engine oil cooler is in the same place but you have the intercooler between the radiator and AC condenser so there isn't room for the gearbox oil cooler too, hence it being tucked away where the V8 has a front foglight.

I think the L322 has either the oil or transmission cooler built into the radiator though.

With the Nanocom, all systems need the ignition on or engine running, only the BeCM needs it to be off.

EAS data line goes through the connector on the passenger side. So does the feed between EAS ECU and dashboard switch.

EAS uses a different pin in the OBD port to the others, so corrosion on the OBD port is favourite.

It does seem a bit odd. 255 is, or should be, the width in millimetres so that is what they all should be, although looking here https://tiresize.com/calculator/, the width doesn't appear to be the tread width but the sidewall width at their widest point. The red one I've recently got has 255/55 x 19 Goodyear Wranglers on it and the tread width on those measures 250mm but the sidewalls don't 'bulge' out beyond the tread by much at all and at the widest point would be around 255mm.

My car is on 7" x 16" wheels with 235/70 x 16 Kleber all season tyres, (which is usually a Disco or base model P38 size and that was what plod specified when it was new) and they measure around 210mm across the tread but 235mm at the widest point of the sidewall.

Aragorn wrote:

Perhaps you can find a good used switch instead of spending £100+ on a new one?

I suspect you'd be able to pick up a used cooler complete with switch for a lot less than a new switch.

On a slight tangent but still in the same area, has anyone else noticed a change in exhaust note when the transmission gets up to temperature and the Torque Converter locks up? I live just over half a mile from the A1(M) so no matter where I am going, it always involves going on the motorway. Drive along at constant throttle at around 60mph and after about 3 miles, the revs drop by about 250rpm and the car starts to accelerate? I never used to notice it but since I fitted the Gravity stainless exhaust, I can hear a change in exhaust note as if I have given it more throttle. Has anyone else noticed the same?

Unless you do a lot of towing heavy things up hills in very hot weather, chances are the fan would never come on anyway so even if the fan did wear out through constant use, it probably wouldn't be any great loss. The transmission cooler on a V8 is where your intercooler is and that doesn't have a fan.....

That's good news. It may be that Customs assumed the parts were new and the price had been under declared in an attempt to pay a reduced duty rate. I always mark anything leaving the country as USED which explains a low value.

They aren't the temperature sensors, they are the AC pressure and trinary sensors that live in that area. If you look at the picture closely, you can see that the alloy pipe is going into the top of the receiver dryer.

Of the part numbers you quote, STC3338 is a thermostat but the other two numbers are for a sensor which, as you say, is a flat sensor with 2 holes in it looking like it should bolt onto something. It is very similar in appearance to the one attached to the side of the transmission cooler on a V8 (ESR4329). Looking at that picture it appears there is something with red wires to it on the outer edge of the cooler and the picture here https://www.famousfour.co.uk/new_parts/partslist?veh=rr_p38a&sec=elec&sub_sec=transsense shows the sensor to have red wires to it.

RAVE doesn't seem to show the location of the switch but it does show the location of the connector to it (C1505) as in the LH front corner of the engine bay but as it looks to have a long wire to it, that doesn't really tell you anything.

About 15 years ago I advertised a motorcycle on eBay and that was bought by a guy from Ireland. He turned up in a van with 4 other bikes in it and had two more to pick up before going back as he reckoned they were far cheaper here than in ROI. Whether they were being sold in one piece or broken down to be sold as spare parts I've no idea.

It certainly sounds as though Customs there are being particularly picky. I generated my own commercial export invoice in Word simply with my name and address along with the buyers name and address as I don't have a company, in this respect, I'm a sole trader. Much the same as a breaker I would suspect.

I was going to suggest using RLD in France to make things simpler but their prices are a bit steep (https://www.rld-autos.com/fr/pieces-land-rover/range-rover-p38/37-abs-et-pieces). Your alternative would be to use someone like Island or Rimmers who are geared up for export. Admittedly, genuine won't be cheap though although Island do Europarts ABS sensors for £20 each. .

I had to replace my fuel pipes recently as the return had started to leak. Fortunately, as I run on LPG most of the time I was able to remove the fuel pump relay and run on LPG all the time until I could do the job. I replaced the fuel pump and the pipes from that were just as corroded as the pipes above the tank, so I at least had something solid to attach to. I used a short length of good quality 7.9mm ID fuel hose with proper fuel hose clips (not Jubilee clips as they can squash a hose into D shape) to connect to the pump then replaced the steel pipes above the tank with 8mm copper central heating microbore pipe. Total cost was £20 for 5m of copper pipe and another fiver or so for hose and clips.

The French Customs are pretty easy going compared with the Dutch who it seems the Irish have taken lessons from. I went over on the Harwich to Hook of Holland ferry with a car transporter trailer to collect a car in Rotterdam and take it to SW France. Then pick up another to do a return pick up in SW France and drop off in Rotterdam. Seeing a UK registered car with an empty trailer waiting to get on the ferry to come home, Dutch Customs grilled me thinking I had bought a car over from the UK. I was tempted to take some sandwiches with me. As my missus is from Latvia she buys Latvian bread from a specialist shop here, so I could use that with Lurpak butter (Danish), Elemental cheese (Dutch) and Italian ham. Then I could tell them I wasn't importing anything, I was repatriating it......

Having recently taken over 3 grands worth of equipment to France and had to jump the hoops for exporting commercial goods into the EU from UK (and pay the 2% import duty and 20% VAT equivalent), and posted P38 parts to the USA, it isn't rocket science. Origin of parts, UK, commodity code for ABS sensors 8708309190 and for seat belt buckle 8708219000 (2 minutes on the online tariff) and for the invoice there will have been one from the seller (even if only an eBay invoice).

I agree, it is a direct result of Brexit but it does seem that ROI customs are being particularly picky, a bit like Dutch Customs were seizing truck driver's ham sandwiches as you can't import items of animal origin into EU from the UK.

I'll probably use PTFE gas tape (thicker than water PTFE tape), on the rings if there is any wobble once the rest of the car is sorted out. The wheels are nice but the newest tyre on it is dated 2003 and they are all badly perished so they will need replacing before it is used. Once it has a set of decent tyres and they've been balanced, if it has a wobble I'll do something about it but for the time being I'll leave them. Got bigger fish to fry as they say, there's still a lot of work to do on it.