Head gaskets, plural, suggests a V8 so your D2 will have the Thor as fitted to a similar age P38. Take the serpentine belt off and try spinning all the idlers, the PS pump, alternator and water pump. I've known a water pump to squeal but only on initial start up not all the time and the alternator is also suspect. Any roughness should be felt and that might be a better way of identifying it that listening for it.
Like this https://rangerovers.pub/topic/152-dodgy-main-beam-headlight-flasher-stalk-modification?page=1#pid18390. The white nylon part wears away with putting the indicators on so instead of having a gentle curve to it that the lever bears against, it wears flat.
The dash switch bulbs are stupidly expensive but are just a plastic housing with a wire ended bulb. The bulbs can be bought from CPC (https://cpc.farnell.com/sli-ebt/7219-004/wire-ended-3mm-12v-1-9-lumens/dp/SC00339) at under £4 for a pack of 5 or Mouser (https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/606-CM7219) at roughly the same price but sold singly. All you need do is unwrap the wire on the original bulb from the housing and pull it out, carefully remove the coloured cover, fit that to the new bulb and fit it into the holder, wrap the wire around and then then snip off the excess wire. The only one that is different is the one for the Hazard light switch as it doesn't have the coloured 'condom' on it, just plain white.
Simon beat me to it. The fact that you've got an intermittent rough running and fuel in the oil, it might be that you have a fuel injector sometimes sticking open. That will bucket fuel into one cylinder so it runs ridiculously rich, lambda sensor will detect that and lean off the mixture. So you will have 1 cylinder on one bank still running rich while the other 3 will be running lean. Pull the spark plugs and look for one that is black to see if you can identify which one it might be.
The cylinder thing where the fuel pipe joins the fuel rail, is there to smooth out the fuel flow rather than have it arriving in pulses.
It is a pump and bladder. On non-memory seats the supply from fuse 10 goes directly to the lumbar pump but on a car with memory seats it goes to the seat outstation.
nigelbb wrote:
AFAIK no P38 seat has an inflatable lumbar support.
Yes they do, all of them with memory seats and possibly those with electric non-memory too.....
From the owners handbook
That's confirmed it. After a couple of days sitting outside at -2 degrees, just checked both iffy latches again. Using the tests as shown in that video, both still operate the keyswitch when the lever is moved but one was intermittent and the other only operated when the lever was right at the very end of the travel. So cold weather and a tiny bit of slack in the connection to the rod is enough for the keyswitch to not operate reliably.
That sounds a lot. Tax on a pre-2001 P38 is only £30 a month and I'm paying just under a grand a year for unlimited mileage, unlimited number of cars, maximum value on each £10k, traders policy. As long as they see a bit of turnover they are happy. A couple of years ago insurers got very twitchy about Range Rovers due to the number of the newer ones being stolen, although when I explained that although I had 2 listed on my policy they were older ones that aren't at risk of being stolen. Last year they were only loading anything later than 2010.
If you are going for limited mileage, then a Classic policy might be an option.
Mina says that every time I turn the ignition on and has done for about 8 or 9 years, only on mine it says FUSE 20 FAILED. Fuse 20 hasn't failed and as it supplies power to the passenger electric seat I don't have, I just ignore it. Apparently there's a resistor on the BeCM power board that is part of the fuse checking circuit and it sometimes fails. I've got a spare BeCM power board that would cure it but have never got around to fitting it. I've got so used to it, if I don't get the Beep when I first turn the ignition on, I'll probably think something is wrong......
I've got one that I took out of the red car when I fitted the LPG tank. It's yours if you want it.
Whereabouts? I'm just outside Peterborough (Stilton) and my Nanocom has licences for all 3 variants of P38.
Rural locations can be worse. My day job used to involve going out and finding the sources of interference and common ones in rural areas were remote weather station senders and oil tank level senders. Others were wireless burglar alarm sensors and wireless central heating controllers. Both the former will make a transmission every 10-15 minutes so can keep waking the BeCM.
RF interference will flatten the battery but won't affect anything else. Admittedly if the battery goes completely flat, than can result in it being immobilised when recharged but as long as the microswitches in the latch are good, all you need do is enter the EKA. It won't damage the BeCM by keeping it powered, it is powered all the time the ignition is on anyway.
Marty does have a limited number of his RF filters in stock. This plugs into the receiver and updates a Gen 1 or Gen 2 receiver to Gen 3 (Green dot) spec and is cheaper than most sellers ask for a secondhand genuine Gen 3 receiver. See www.p38webshop.co.uk. The Gen 1 and 2 receivers woke up the BeCM as soon as it received a signal, irrespective of what they signal was from so things like wireless doorbells, weather stations, kids toys, etc would wake it up. The Gen 3 only wakes the BeCM when it has received a valid P38 code and the filter does the same.
I've got a prototype of his original design on my car, and have had for about 6 years, and one of the latest versions on the other car and neither suffers from battery drain. As Marty is now in New Zealand, you're looking at a week to 10 days for one to arrive.
I've also realised why it asked for the EKA when you swapped the receiver. Passive immobilisation will be enabled, you unlocked the car but didn't start it and swapped the receiver. You then put the key in the ignition and the fob sent the unlock code but the receiver didn't detect it, so you needed the EKA.
Easy test to see if passive immobilisation is enabled. Unlock the car but don't start it. Wait a couple of minutes then put the key in the ignition. If the LED on the key flashes when you put it in the ignition, it is enabled and it is sending the code to turn the immobiliser off. If passive is disabled, it won't flash.
1.It sounds like the replacement receiver isn't working. Ordinarily you should be able to swap receivers and they will work and not need the EKA, I've taken the receiver off my car and fitted on a different one to confirm the one on the other car was faulty. One thing does come to mind though, what country market is the car from? European fobs and receivers use 433 MHz, while US and Japanese ones use 315 MHz. So if your car is a Japanese import, then that would explain why it doesn't work.
You shouldn't have to but clearing the RF memory may help. Simply swapping the receiver shouldn't cause it to be immobilised. However, if passive immobilisation is enabled in the BeCM (which it is by default), the immobiliser kicks in if the car is unlocked but not started within 30 seconds. What normally happens then is a coil around the ignition barrel causes the fob to transmit an unlock code which turns the immobiliser off. This coil is very brittle and known to fail so you either have to start the car within 30 seconds of unlocking it or press the unlock button on the fob to turn the immobiliser off.
If the car has been locked with the fob and unlocked with the key, you will have to enter the EKA. If you subsequently lock and unlock with the key, it will ask for the EKA every time you unlock. If locked with the fob and unlocked with the key and the EKA is then entered with a Nanocom, it will no longer ask for the EKA so can be locked and unlocked with the key without any problems.
Not asking for the code suggests someone has been into the BeCM and disabled the EKA setting. People seem to think that when they see a setting for EKA with the options of Enabled or Disabled, if they disable it then they will never need to enter it which is incorrect. What it does is not ask for it whether it is needed or not and should only be disabled on a car that has never had an EKA programmed from new (only for certain markets, notably the US).
I've not seen one anywhere but hadn't looked previously as I've taken quite a few apart and know how to do it. So I've just done a Google search and found a Youtube video entitled, P38 door latch repair and test from, you guessed it, Rezremaps. What that shows is how he tests the switches and motors and not how he takes it apart and changes the switches when he finds they don't work. Testing as he does is OK up to a point but usually when they start to fail they are intermittent so may appear fine until you fit them only to find the fault has come back. So not a repair at all.
This video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T0PEU_6J7QE shows how to take the latch apart but it is a passenger latch so only has 2 rather than 3 microswitches and rather than the fault being the standard one of a worn out keyswitch caused by using the key in the door rather than the remote, he had a problem with the CDL switch so he was able to resolder the wire (although quite how a wire encased in epoxy can break I've no idea, I suspect the heat just caused it to start to work temporarily but it is likely that it will fail again after a while).
Although Marty isn't advertising door latches at the moment (in fact, since he managed to break his own website, he isn't advertising anything at the moment) and has also returned to live in New Zealand, he's still about. Last time I spoke to him about latches (and gave him a couple of faulty ones) he said his biggest problem was getting ones to refurbish. He would sell them on exchange basis but found that many people, despite having paid a surcharge, never bothered to send him their old ones. He was working on a 3D printed carrier that would hold 3 off the shelf microswitches and supply that with a link to the correct switches needed and a how to guide on replacing them yourself in the same way as when he supplies a zebra strip for the HEVAC screen repair. Whether he is in a position to supply these or the file so anyone with a 3D printer can produce them, I've no idea but I haven't had a chat with him recently so will give him a call and find out.
As it's been too cold to play outside I've actually had a session on the bench in the warm today. First I replaced bulbs in some dash switch lamps, replaced the feedback pots in a couple of blend motors, then I fixed the flash switch in an indicator/light switch stalk so you can flash the lights when they are on without switching to main beam and then turned my attention to a pair of door latches. Both of these had been taken off cars where the keyswitch didn't operate on a key turn to unlock resulting in the immobiliser kicking in and it not being possible to enter the EKA with the key (as it uses a combination of the CDL and keyswitches being operated in a certain sequence). Before starting I tested them both as in the first video above and both worked perfectly. I've noticed in the past that sometimes the keyswitch will work in warm weather but not in the cold and I've put that down to a combination of wear and a tiny amount of thermal expansion which takes up the wear so they will work when warm. As both of these have been laying on the bench in the house for months, they are nice and warm, so to confirm the theory, they are now outside in the cold and I'll test them again in another couple of days but I'm pretty sure they will fail then. Then I will need to decide which one of the two I fit the replacement microswitch cluster into.....
The Audi A2 uses the same engine and transmission as a VW Polo, so no LSD, just plain old front wheel drive. It's the tyres that make the difference on snow. However, the snow we get occasionally in the UK isn't real snow but wet slush so rain tyres would be almost as good as winter tyres. The problem comes when that turns to ice and you aren't going to get much grip on that unless you use studded tyres. The salt they put on the roads also has an effect. It causes the snow to melt but if there isn't enough, the melted snow then freezes on the road surface. In countries that get a lot of snow, they often don't use salt. They plough the road and then the traffic clears it.
I would think the weight transfer is greater than you suggest. I did police driver training many years ago (the normal blue light training not the full pursuit training unfortunately) and was taught to lift of the throttle as you come into a bend at speed then go back on the throttle. You don't lose any speed but the weight transfer moves the weight further forward over the front wheels to give better grip in the corner.
If going uphill, even with 50/50 weight distribution, the centre of balance will move rearwards so the rear wheels will have a better chance of getting some traction than the fronts. However, as the weight of the vehicle will be trying to push it back, there's a greater chance of it going sideways, whereas if FWD, if a wheel loses traction it will just spin.
Diff locks are over-rated and not needed and as this is primarily a P38 forum, you should be aware of what they can do. What astounded me just over a year ago when I was in Latvia, was just how good the P38 is in snow. Admittedly proper snow, none of this wet, slushy stuff we get here that unnecessarily causes the whole country to grind to a halt because nobody knows how to drive, but around a foot and a half on roads that hadn't been cleared and 2-3 inches of hard packed snow on the roads that had (all they do is run a snowplough down the road so you can see where it is and let the traffic eventually clear it down to tarmac). As mine is pre-99, it only has 2 wheel traction control on the rear (what you call pseudo LSD) but even then I had to try really hard, gearbox in Sport mode and floor the throttle, to get it to kick in. Father in Laws Audi on winter tyres went where you pointed it but could spin a wheel if I tried hard. In both cases, ABS would kick in if I hit the brakes hard but not under normal braking. But, I suspect if I had been on summer tyres, the little Audi would run rings around me.
Big gaps in tread are there to shift water to prevent aquaplaning and a lot of performance tyres have big gaps. It seems counter-intuitive that less rubber on the road will give better grip but it will under anything other than smooth, dry tarmac (when you want slicks) making them better suited to UK weather. Winter tyres have multiple tiny grooves (sipes) so you have more sharp edges to give better grip and are made of a rubber compound that remains flexible at low temperatures. Standard tyres don't really like anything below around 7 degrees C as the rubber compound loses flexibility.
So the number of driven wheels and where on the vehicle they are is less important than the bit that is between the car and the surface, the tyres. In fact, a few years ago I had a set of Goodyear Wranglers on my car and we had the standard UK winter one inch of snow and it slid around all over the place. Fitting All Season tyres then made it quieter in the dry, a lot more stable in the wet and actually went where I pointed it on snow.
Depends if the 2wd version is front or rear wheel drive. I've driven my father in laws FWD Audi A2 on winter tyres in far more snow than we are ever likely to get in the UK and it was reasonable. Not as good as my 4WD Range Rover on All Season (but 3 peaks marked) tyres though.
Just put the space in for you.....
You do seem to be reading it right, There's a splice somewhere between the top switches and the HEVAC so your theory that the wire to the HEVAC has come adrift and is grounded on something would seem to be correct.