I suppose it depends on why they are there. If they are there to deal with thermal expansion then if they can't expand, something else is going to go (or they'll just crack again). But if that is the case, how did the cast iron manifolds fitted to the same engine in a Classic survive and not crack? Although the cast iron manifolds did have huge holes for the bolts that could, as long as it wasn't bolted up solid with firegum on the gaskets, would allow a bit of movement. If they are there to allow a bit of flex to allow for manufacturing tolerances, then as long as the are bolted up to a head when welded, they should be fine.
You can also go for NGK BCPR6ES which are the same as the BPR6ES but with the smaller hex so will fit all Thor engines. The only difference is that some, and it is only some, Thor heads have a smaller hole machined in them for the plugs so the standard sized plug socket won't fit in the hole. OB found he had just one hole that was smaller, Rutland Rover found all of his where smaller but many others have found that none are.
I pay £2 each for both BPR6ES and BCPR6ES from my local motor factors.
Lambda sensors are 5-0V which means that 5V will be seen at lean and 0V at rich. So setting it wrong and it starts rich and just gets richer and richer. As for injector type, what have you actually got and what are your options in the software?
Christmas tree separator is in the tube at one end of the rocker cover where the oil breather tube connects. It's a plastic thing that looks like a Christmas tree and is there to slow down any oil vapour and allow it to turn back into oil.
Yes, but check every hole as, as I say, OB had just one hole that wasn't big enough.
Stumble on changeover is going to be down to changeover overlap or changeover delay, depending on what it is called in your software. It sets the delay between turning gas on and petrol off so if too low it will have no fuel for a fraction or if too high, it'll be drowning in fuel for a fraction. Both will cause a stumble, but usually it is caused when set too low.
It may be permanently out of shape so will be a real bugger to get to reseat. Has it been changed recently or been like that for a while, that'll make a difference too. Dropping it off and putting it back with lots of RTV is probably your best hope if it insists on staying out of shape.
I don't think temperature makes too much difference in level, running through the gears certainly does though. On mine checking it before starting the engine, the level is about 4 inches above the full mark. I've also found that the difference between the bottom and top holes on the dipstick is under half a litre. Mine was on the minimum so I bunged a litre in and that took it way over the max. It was blowing the excess out of the breather (which finds it's way down the inner wheelarch liner until it drips off the nearside front mudflap) for weeks afterwards.
Mines got orange poly bushes on it and they are fine. Just follow the usual advice and avoid Britpart ones.
I wouldn't take anything from Ed China as a recommendation, he only needs a car to work for as long as it takes to find a punter to buy it.....
Biggest problem with OE is that you need a press to fit them but you don't with poly bushes. If in a hurry to get it on the road, bung some poly on it for now. If they last, great, if they don't then do the job properly in the future. In saying that, the orange poly bushes on mine have been there for at least 50,000 miles (or 2 years), are still fine and the ride and handling is no worse than any of the others I've driven so some do work.
That used to be a common problem on 1990's Peugeots and Citroens as they had the radio aerial directly above the interior light and the O ring on the base of that would perish. Caused all sorts of grief as the infra red receiver for the central locking lived inside the interior light and it didn't take kindly to being filled with water. However, unless someone has been at yours with a drill and fitted something non-standard, you don't have a hole in the roof at that point. I'd start by dropping the interior light (it just pulls out) and seeing if you can see where it's getting in. If it is getting in at the centre the only place I can think of is around the windscreen. Does it come in while parked or only when moving?
Unless it's different on the later ones, there aren't any one way valves as such, just a conical bit of rubber with slits in it to allow water to drain out but not get back in. I know mine are clear, they stopped me as I was about to get on a ferry a couple of weeks ago to pint out I had a water leak.....
Imperial sockets??? They will probably fit but really you want metric ones, 8, 10 and 13mm being the most common. If it's still got the original rocker cover bolts in they are 8mm but what are termed bi-hex, so you need a 12 point socket, not the usual 6 point you get when you get down to the smaller sizes. I bought one of these sets https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Automotive/d60/Socket+Sets/sd2938/Alldrive+Bit+%26+Socket+Set/p30712 which gave me the 8mm socket I needed but the Torx bits have since come in very handy.
and if we can't, can I drag it around just for the hell of it?
I need to do the headlining in both my P38 and the CX ;-)
Get yourself down to Swindon this weekend then........
In case Marty is busy with someone else, my Nanocom lives in the car so you can have a play with that. Not sure about waste oil drums but if we've got them, we probably won't need them. Disposable gloves I've got a new box in the boot but cups is a very good idea. The ones at Marty's workshop definitely look like your average workshop cup. You get to the bottom of a cup of coffee and wonder just what it was that you've just drunk.....
Not to be left out, I've got a foot bath in mine, a little puddle on the rubber mat on the passenger side. Mine should be simple though as it will be either the pollen filter housing or the self tapper directly above it.
The other half has my second project P38, but that is still moveable so I'll put that outside whilst we are up there
Ooo, Ooo, Ooo, does this mean I'll get the opportunity to drag things around behind mine again?
Will Dina be coming this year or has she seen enough of men looking at old cars and scratching their heads? :)
She certainly is, she's the self proclaimed headlining expert (having helped do mine) and seems to be looking forward to the prospect of doing 7. As long as you keep her fed, she'll keep sticking bits of foam backed cloth to flimsy fibreglass roof shells.
Gilbert, did you bring paper plates last time? because that was inspired. I doubt anyone wants to wash up.
I don't remember as Dina dealt with stuff like that, it was her idea to take food in the first place, but we'll bring some this time. Got a couple of the disposable barbecues too in case you need extra cooking space.
I'm booked in the Premier Inn Swindon North, as is OB and possibly Gilbert. There seems to be a pub nearby....
Yup, booked it a few minutes ago.
I've had a blocked AC drain in the past and the puddle on the rubber mat formed next to the centre console. This time it's down in the front corner so not that and it only appeared after the car had stood outside in the rain when the AC wasn't being used. Two advantages with having the genuine LR floor mats is that they have a lip around the edge so the water stays on the mat and doesn't get as far as the carpet to soak into that and being rubber you can also see exactly where the water started rather than just having soggy carpets.
No idea, I just buy the genuine LR ones, at 6 quid for a pair, it isn't worth mucking around with anything else.