The regulator I got was one of these https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/hc-cargo-25072361.html which fits the Magnetti Marelli alternator fitted to the GEMS. Although a .co.uk website, the company are actually based in Germany so may ship to Australia or just Google the part number and see if you can find a local suppler (it is also used on a number of other cars so may be far more common than you think). You can't replace the commutator though and the only way you would be able to get a complete rotor would be from another alternator. In which case you may as well just fit the other alternator.....

My satnav is permanently wired and stuck on the bottom of the windscreen in much the same place as you have put the Carplay screen, just closer to the screen. You can run the wires towards the screen and the forward edge of the dashboard has a rubber on it that bears on the inside of the windscreen. That allows you to poke the wires down below that and run them to one side. For my satnav and dashcam (mounted at the top of the screen next to the rear view mirror), I installed an extra cigar lighter socket low down on the centre console side panel and ran the cable from that to a dual outlet cigar lighter socket tie wrapped to the wiring duct behind the knee panel so the two items are plugged into that. That way I can keep the cigar lighter/ashtray flap closed and not have any wires dangling over the top of the centre console unless I need to use one of the two USB sockets I've mounted inside the ashtray that is.

I've still got to mount the rear camera on the Aygo but when I do that I'll have another play with the line out (as the Aygo has an Aux in socket on the stereo) and see if I can identify why there was a constant crackle on the audio when using that. It sounded like GSM interference from the phone but that shouldn't be a problem these days with everything running UMTS and LTE. I'll try connecting my Android phone to it and see if it is an iPhone problem. If it is, that will give her the excuse she has been waiting for to replace her elderly iPhone with a newer one and just hope that cures it.

Not even sure you can get Cunifer in that size. I used 8mm OD copper central heating microbore pipe (off the shelf for a 10m roll in the local DIY shop) and 7.8mm ID good quality hose so gave a good tight fit. Had to use a smear of rubber grease on the ends of the pipes to get them to push into the hose and once in they sealed without any clips.

The pipe from the pump to the threaded end on the filter have a short length of flexi hose on them, so I cut that off leaving as much flexi as possible and connected to the copper pipe with decent quality stainless hose clips. I also cut the return pipe back to a non-rusted bit and joined that to the copper with a short length of hose and the same clips.

When dropping the tank make sure you disconnect all the breather hoses going to the filler neck.

I've done both of mine for the same reason and didn't need to replace the seal or locking ring on either of them. Rather than replacing steel pipes with steel pipes, I replaced mine with copper, see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1620-what-have-you-done-to-your-range-rover-today?page=74#pid43489. Unless they come with the pipes, you'll also need the olives and nuts to connect the pipes to the pump.

If the car is locked with the key in the door, that turns on the immobiliser and alarm but they are turned off if it is then unlocked with either the key or the fob. However, if it was locked with the fob it MUST be unlocked with the fob, unlocking with the key unlocks the door but doesn't turn off the alarm and immobiliser, you then need to input the EKA to turn them off.

It isn't possible to turn off the immobiliser even though many people think you can. When you get your Nanocom and start looking through the BeCM settings, you will find one marked Immobiliser which will be Enable or Disabled. That doesn't turn off the immobiliser, it turns off passive immobilisation. Passive immobilisation turns the immobiliser back on if you unlock the car (with key or fob) but then don't start the car within 30 seconds. If it is Enabled, the coil around the ignition switch causes the fob to send the Unlock code to turn off the immobiliser. If the coil or fob isn't working, when you try to start the car, the message centre will come up with Engine Immobilised, Press Remote or Enter Code. If it is Disabled, it doesn't matter how long you leave it between unlocking the car and trying to start it as the immobiliser will have been turned off when you unlocked the car and will stay off. This is slightly different to the automatic locking where if you unlock the car but don't open the door, it will relock (and set the immobiliser again) if you don't open a door. This is to prevent you accidentally unlocking the car, usually with the fob in your pocket, and leaving it unlocked.

It comes with a base and a sticky pad so, as the top of the P38 dash is virtually flat, it should fit on there easily enough. It has a built in FM transmitter anyway so all you need do is tune your radio to it, no need for an extra unit. Whenever switched off it defaults to 87.5MHz when switched back on though. That works extremely well on step daughter's Aygo but that has a roof mounted aerial so the distance between the unit and the aerial is less than 1m with only the windscreen glass in between. My experience with using a DAB adapter with FM output on a previous P38 wasn't as good due to the unit being at the dash and the aerial being that much further away at the rear. Every so often, I'd drive past someone else also using the same FM frequency for the same purpose and hear their signal instead.

Not only will it allow you to stream music as well as displaying Waze, it works as a hands free unit for phone calls. Seems to work reasonably well even though the mic is in the unit itself and not remote allowing you to fit it a bit closer (both my P38s have hands free in them with the mic at the top of the A post). The mic also allows you to voice control it too.

The other box under there is the amplifier for the radio aerial and nothing to do with the fob. Unless your car is a base model, you will have aerials for the radio in both side windows. One side is FM only while the other side is FM/AM (but I don't remember which side is which).

The signal from the fob is received by the receiver and the data stream travels along the Orange/Red wire in the 3 way connector at the receiver to the BeCM at pin 6 of C326. The fact that it was working but only when very close to the car, suggests that either the fob isn't sending a very strong signal, pretty unlikely with new batteries in it (it takes 2 CR2025 batteries), or the receiver isn't receiving it very well. Do you have tint film on the rear windows as that could be blocking the signal to the receiver? I suppose you could try attaching a longer piece of wire to the terminal on the receiver where the blue wire is connected and running that across to the other side of the car. That way the distance the signal has to travel will be less.

Nigel's car is a 2000 or 2001 and I don't think the front end had been apart since it left Lode Lane. Brake Calliper came off easily enough but the bolts holding the calliper carrier on needed the club hammer and even when they started moving, still needed a breaker bar to move them until the last couple of turns. Brake disc needed the soft faced mallet from behind which meant jacking the other front wheel off the ground so it could be rotated. Disc backplate didn't have rusted bolt heads and all 3 of the bolts came out easily as did the ABS sensor but the 4 bolts holding the hub in place again needed the breaker bar until the last couple of turns. Then it was down to bolting an old brake disc on back to front and belting it with a sledge hammer to get the hub to move. But with everything cleaned up, it all went back together in next to no time.

I've had it on mine but only the drivers seat belt as that is obviously the one that gets the most use. I changed the buckle for a used one that has obviously had less use than mine and it is fine. I've checked the part number and some suppliers are suggesting that the part number supersedes to the one for a 99 onwards car but it doesn't unless you change the belt too. The older belt will not click into the later buckle.

They always read low but it is irrelevant. It only does anything if the intake temperature rises above 55C. Mine usually reads around -5C when the ambient is 10C. Even if it is disconnected it will flag an error code but have no affect.

The receiver is under the rear side panel on the right hand side of the car, the bit that supports the luggage compartment cover. It has a 3 way connector plugged into it and a single blue wire which goes to the antenna etched into the side window. People often unplug the blue wire so the receiver doesn't have an antenna attached to it so you need to be very close for it to receive the signal from the fob. In your case it will be worse as I assume the car is LHD, so the signal from the fob is being blocked by the rest of the car. On a RHD the signal only has to travel a couple of metres down the side of the car, in your case it has to travel further and through the car.

This is where it lives

Two things can affect the sync and cause it to not work. If the blue wire on the receiver has been disconnected to make the receiver 'deaf' and reduce the chances of nearby RF causing a flat battery, it may be that it isn't sensitive enough to detect the signal from the fob. In that case, if you have two keys you can use one in the door to do the turning and hold the one you are trying to sync next to the aerial etched into the RH rear window. Second problem is local RF that is affecting the receivers ability to detect the signal from the fob. Doing the above may work or just take the car out into the countryside where there are no radio masts anywhere nearby and try it again.

It must be a good time for ABS sensors. Nigelbb came over on Thursday as he had a droning right front wheel bearing that needed changing. While out it is a good idea to replace the axle oil seal and, as I've had a problem with an aftermarket one in the past, I've always used genuine LR ever since. LR spares are still affected but Island were shown as having 4 genuine in stock, so I bought one from them. Knowing that most of the time ABS sensors refuse to come out or come out in pieces, picked a used genuine one up from a local place. That way I was all set for everything. As it happened, once the brake disc and dust shield were off so I'd got better access, got hold of the ABS sensor, gave it a twist and out it came, easy as anything.

No they aren't, the mounting points are different.

Some time ago, well over a year, I needed a new alternator so checked with the usual suspects (Island4x4 and LRDirect) for a 120A AMR2938 for a GEMS and found one of them gave me the option of a Britpart or a Hella . Working on the principle that a dead alternator can stop the car, I ordered the Hella. Fitted it and checked that it was working by putting my meter across the battery and was pleased to see 14.4V. Many months later (recently), I had the ignition switched on but engine not running and after about 30 seconds the dash beeped at me and came up with Alternator Fault. I also noticed no picture of a battery on the dash (but with all the other warning lights that come on with the ignition, it's easy to not notice one that isn't there). But the alternator was still doing what it should and charging the battery at 14.4V. Checked with the Nanocom that the bulb hadn't blown and found that I could make it come on from within the BeCM Outputs menu.

Recently decided to do something about it in case it stopped working and didn't tell me about it. I'd got 3 alternators in the garage but had no idea if any were any good. One was a weird make I've never heard of, one was a 100A version and one was the desired 120A AMR2938. Tried connecting the thin Brown/Yellow wire to the D+ terminal with the alternator body grounded through the rocker cover, turned on the ignition and no picture of a battery on the dash, but there was if I grounded the wire. Concluded the regulator was dead so ordered one of these https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/hc-cargo-25072361.html. It arrived within a couple of days and although the box said HC Cargo, the label on the box said it was made by Robert Bosch.....

Fitted it to the dead alternator, bolted it onto the car and with just the D+ wire connected the battery light on the dash came on with the ignition. Went to connect the main power cable to the alternator and got a spark. That shouldn't happen unless one of the diodes in the alternator is short circuit and a quick check with the meter showed it was drawing 6A. Bugger. So took it off again, removed the new regulator and was about to put it back in the box to keep as a spare. Then had a thought. The Hella was sitting there looking at me and a closer look showed that although the label on it said Hella, it was actually a Magneti Marelli, identical to the one that I had just taken apart. So I pulled the cover off the back and found it had the same regulator in it. So fitted the new regulator to the 'Hella', fitted it to the car, turned the ignition on and was happy to see a battery warning light on the dash. Started the car and the battery was charging at 14.4V. At least now if I do have a problem with charging, I feel confident that I'll have a warning light on the dash to tell me about it.

But this isn't the end of it. Nigelbb has been here today as we needed to change one of his front wheel bearings. While he was here, we were playing with his new toy, the Carplay/Android display. While playing he had the ignition on and the dash beeped and came up with Alternator Fault and we noticed that he doesn't have a battery warning light either. He thinks the car has done it in all the 10 years he has owned it but had never noticed no battery warning light. What makes this more interesting is his car is a Thor so has a different alternator but it seems they also suffer the same problem. Interestingly, the only regulator I can find listed under the part numbers for both Thor alternators, are a Hitachi one. I always thought the Thor had a Bosch?

Any chance of getting a nut splitter in there? One of these https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht246-nut-splitter-set/. I've found that once it starts biting into the nut it expands it so you can usually tap it with a hammer and unscrew the nut.

For the joint to the centre section, I just get the angle grinder with a cutting blade out and just cut through the bolts. Sometimes the bolt heads are welded to the flange, but the grinder soon sorts that so you can use standard bolts.

If you have slack in the linkage, the only thing you can do is replace it, there isn't any adjustment. You shouldn't be able to push it up when it is closed unless the screws attaching the glass to the mechanism are loose. Slide the covers off either side and check the screws.

That is my only complaint (other than the crackle when trying to use line in), no instructions. Step daughter asked me how she saves a clip from the dashcam and I have no idea. I have a dedicated dashcam with a red button that marks the current clip so it doesn't get over written and I would assume it has something similar but no idea how to do it. The same with displaying a split screen. At one point it was showing the sat nav map and the title of the music she was streaming, but how we got it into that state we couldn't work out.

If you can get the old ones off to fit the new ones. The adjuster on the drag link and, to a slightly lesser degree, the track rod, usually requires lots of heat, a pair of Stilsons and a very long bar to put on the end.