What does it have? Things like sunroof, cruise control, trip computer, headlamp wash/wipe, ect, all require a highline BeCM. Heated front screen is controlled by the HEVAC not the BeCM but the wiring is probably there, most other bits of wiring usually are. Does it have AC?

The link you embedded goes to the whole drive so there's all of the pictures there rather than the one individual picture.

Harv wrote:

I’ve not heard of people going from 4.6-4.0, but I’m pretty sure when people make a 4.6 out of their 4.0 they need to change pistons and rods.

That's if you are going to use the 4.6 crank too as it is that that dictates the increased stroke over the 4.0. So if using a 4.6 crank, you also need the matching rods but it seems you don't need the 4.6 pistons.

@Unimog, just tried to edit your post so the picture appears but it has permissions set so can't be seen by anyone but you.

If it needs remapping, or even if it doesn't, the man to speak to is Mark Adams at Tornado Systems (https://www.tornadosystems.com/product-category/rover-v8/), he is the man for mapping on these. Didn't think it would be possible to use the 4.0 litre rods but without a pair of pistons sitting side by side it isn't really possible to tell.

It's the opposite to the engine in a Corvette C2 that a mate's son imported from the States. He was told the engine, a 350cu small block, had recently been rebuilt but it didn't sound right and was idling on 7. A compression check showed that all cylinders seemed a bit low and one was very low. Turned out one had a broken valve spring so the heads were pulled off to sort that. Mate had the block on an engine stand and was turning the engine over to get it to TDC and found that none of the pistons reached the top. No idea what combination of crank, rods and pistons had been fitted but they definitely weren't the correct ones.

4.0 litre con rods are longer than 4.6 (155mm centre to centre rather than 149mm) so with the longer stroke, unless the pistons are a lot shorter, then they will hit the heads.

Welcome to the pub, must be your round? If it's got top hats the blown head gasket will be down to the bolts being either cheapo stretch bolts that stretch too much, or a mix of old and new. They do put up a fight getting them off, ARP studs are a much better way to go, not cheap but worth every penny. Top hats and studs mean you won't have any head gasket problems for the foreseeable future (mine has done 131,000 since being top hatted and put together with studs). Wasn't aware that 4.0 litre and 4.6 pistons were interchangeable, but I know when mine was rebuilt I was told by V8 Developments that 4.0 pistons are difficult to get hold of and a lot more expensive that 4.6 ones.

Sounds like you've got one much like most of the others, well looked after initially then neglected and/or abused after that when they got cheap. Setting the rocker preload is fairly simple, see http://www.v8developments.co.uk/technical/valve_train/index.shtml.

If you switch the ignition on, plug the Nano in, get it to the correct page then start the engine, you'll be able to look at the fuelling. You should be able to see whether it is in open or closed loop and what the outputs from the lambda sensors are. Not sure how it works with a Thor, but on a GEMS it shows OPEN or CL, lambda sensor voltage and short term trims.

I think one point that seems to being missed is that these days car manufacturers treat cars as white goods with a design life of 10 years. So disposing of the batteries is only one part of it, it's also the manufacture of the new batteries for the new cars. Some research done a few years ago, when the Carbon footprint thing first started being looked at it was found that the car with the lowest end to end carbon footprint was the Rolls Royce Silver Shadow. Yes, it uses a lot to build but was built so well that it lasted such a long time and when it reached the end of it's life, virtually all of it was recycled or reused.

So they should be thanking us for keeping our cars going for 20+ years......

The CD changer is just a standard CD changer. Ealier cars with the Clarion head unit need the matching Clarion CD changer, later ones with the Alpine head unit, need an Alpine one. It doesn't have to be the genuine Land Rover one, as long as it is the correct make.

If you have the Clarion, adding a line in is dead easy so instead of playing CDs you can stream audio from a phone, tablet or MP3 player (see http://www.stockholmviews.com/p38/index.html#clarion) or go one step further and add Bluetooth too. Not so easy with the Alpine but the Grom BT3 works well too (https://www.gromaudio.co.uk/products/bluetooth-hands-free-and-a2dp-car-kits/bmw-mini-rover-bluetooth-integration-kit-678.html).

Only on Victron Energy & Sterling Power items unfortunately. The Hankook MF31-1000 is currently out of stock too......

That will reduce the current draw so should stop it. It might be that your BeCM is a bit over sensitive and giving a false fail. I'd leave the indicator bulbs as standard tungsten so the trailer light on the dash still works. One of the trailers I often use has LED lights and there's no indication on the dash that the trailer indicators are working.

You'll get a tail light fault if the BeCM sees either too low current draw (open circuit bulb) or too much current (short circuit bulb or holder). What lights do you have on the trailer? I once connected a 21W beacon to one sidelight circuit and after a short time it came up with the tail light fault warning. So if you have multiple lights running off the sidelight circuit (side markers?) it will draw too much current. It also cut power to that circuit so not only did the beacon go out but so did the tailights on that side.

It's slightly lower spec than the Hankook, 100Ah against 105 and 830 CCA compared with 1000. But, it's still a higher spec than that recommended so should be fine.

For them to sync it needs both the keyswitch and CDL switch in the latch to be working and the receiver being able to receive the signal from the fob. A failed keyswitch isn't always obvious if you always lock with the fob as it is only used when the key is turned in the lock. So, you may have an iffy keyswitch or it could be an RF problem. If you've got a local source of RF, it may not be something that will cause battery drain but it might be something that desensitises the receiver. The range on my keyfob is much lower at my daughters house than at home as she has a mobile phone site pretty close by. Although the frequencies used are far away from the 433 MHz used by the fob, they are considerably stronger so the receiver is being desensitised so needs to see a stronger signal on the operating frequency. Waving the fob near to the rear window aerial means it works whereas at home I can lock and unlock the car from inside the house.

Receiver antenna disconnected?

I read somewhere that they are supposed to reduce intake noise by smoothing out any pulses. One of mine has them the other doesn't and they don't seem to do a lot but obviously somebody thought they were beneficial.

I'm not so sure. We have a history of classic cars in this country with numerous suppliers and re-manufacturers of parts. It's also recognised by Government with the Historic tax class and removing the need for an MoT test for anything over 40 years old. A lot of other countries simply regard them as old cars and even some that do recognise classics have a historic tax class but with only limited use allowed either limiting the mileage they can clock up or by restricting the times of year they can be used. We are likely to be in a far better position than some.

Chasman wrote:

Need to repair the sunroof mech when I get a weather window. All tips appreciated.

Don't bother. I bought one of the 3D printed repair kits from eBay. Spent about 3 days carefully filing and fettling until I was happy everything was moving smoothly. Put it all back together, pressed the button and it slid back, tried it the other way and it slid forward again. Did the full movement to set it (while it hadn't been working I'd used the Nanocom to tell the BeCM it hadn't got a sunroof to stop it beeping at me because it wasn't set). Brilliant, all working perfectly. Until the next time I opened it. Halfway through the movement there was a crack from above my head and one of the new bits had broken. Went to East Coast Range Rovers and bought a complete working cassette (and retrimmed the headlining while it was out to fit the cassette).

I've owned 3 cars on 18" wheels and my everyday one is on 16s. Mine are poverty spec 7 x 16 (as ordered by Greater Manchester Police when it was new) so runs on 235/70x16 tyres and the ride is much more compliant than the others on 18s. Tyre choice does make a fair bit of difference though.

Welcome to the pub, you'll find a similarly inflicted bunch on here and, while it seems you've been there and done it, I'm sure there's things you haven't found yet that someone has.

From wikipedia:
Gems " Lucas "
4.0 - 190hp @ 4750rpm & 320nm "236 LB-FT" @ 3200rpm
4.6 - 225hp @ 4750rpm & 380nm "280 LB-FT" @ 3200rpm

Bosch "Motronic"
4.0 - 188hp @ 4750rpm & 339nm "250 LB-FT" @ 2600rpm
4.6 - 218hp @ 4750rpm & 407nm "300 LB-FT" @ 2600rpm

So the GEMS 4.6 produces more power than the Thor at the expense of a bit of bottom end grunt and the Thor 4.0 litre (as used in the Disco) is the least powerful. However, I've got two GEMS, a 4.0 litre and a 4.6 and in all honesty the difference in performance isn't really noticeable when driving.

Or you could always buy the original....
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/4136918786339619/?