mad-as wrote:
the temps in my area are around -2 or 3 up to 35ish
So only slightly warmer than here.
2nd gear with the wind for 10km 4500rpm temps 117dec boiled at 118
There's proof for you, with an Ethylene Glycol mix in there, it wouldn't have boiled and would have stayed cooler so even the oil pressure would have remained. It would have dropped but not disappeared completely.
That makes more sense, antifreeze used to be methanol based (meths basically) which would evaporate out but unless you are really old, you were probably given out of date info even then. Ethylene Glycol (which was used in the Spitfire engines in WW2) has been used for a long time now with this Organic stuff in more recent years. You can get away with using plain water in some engines, marine engines often don't have a sealed cooling system and just suck water in from the sea but even with cast iron, it can still rot out. This is one of the heads from a Volvo Penta marine engine based on an all cast iron Ford Windsor 351 motor
What sort of temperatures do you get where you are then? UK can range between -10 and +30 Celsius (with it getting colder than that in some areas and hotter on odd days in summer), so the antifreeze and anti boil aspects of coolant are needed. Even if you don't get freezing temperatures I would have thought you would still need the additional headroom it gives you when it gets hotter.
StrangeRover wrote:
I dunno, but to be fair EV charging points are more plentiful than LPG points!!
But at least we don't clog them up for an hour at a time......
Morat wrote:
Damnit - snapped another caliper slide bolt, this time it was brand new :/
I set the torque wrench to 30NM and PING.
Are you sure your torque wrench is accurate? 30 NM is only 22 ft/lbs so not much above finger tight? I must admit I don't use a torque wrench on them, I just do them up finger tight then nip them up with a ring spanner. Mind you, my torque wrench doesn't go down that low, it starts at 30 ft/lb.
During a discussion at work about 20 years ago I predicted that nuclear fusion was the way forward and that one day we'd all be driving electric cars powered by a tiny fusion reactor. Equally there'd be no need for power stations or the infrastructure to distribute it, every building would also be powered by it's own fusion reactor. At the time a fusion reactor was theory and hadn't been done in practice but now it's been done by the French and NASA have miniaturised it and produced one with the intention of using it to power space stations. Scientific view at the moment is that it should be possible to mass produce them by 2025 (although Elon Musk will probably claim to have built one by next year). Barring a huge advance in battery technology, that's the way I would see it going, although doubtful I'll be around to see it.
I'm all for performance but not sure. I got dragged into a Tesla showroom in a Cambridge shopping centre last year and the guy was asked about range. He admitted that although they quote 360 miles, realistically you're pushed to manage 300. Charges in under an hour from a Tesla supercharger point but takes 9 hours from a home charger or an astounding 52 hours from a 13A socket!
We also asked about charge points further East (as a friend of Dina's was with us who works in Holland but regularly goes home to Latvia) then a serious problem occurs. You'd need to park the car in Warsaw and either take public transport the rest of the way or stop for 52 hours every 300 miles. Supercharger coverage stops at Warsaw.
But 400 a month? That's 4,800 a year so over 5 years you could buy an Aston Martin and get the performance but with the matching sountrack. I bet servicing costs are less too.....
I thought the Honey Badger was Daniel Ricciardo.......
and they are now going to get even more expensive.....
https://www.parkers.co.uk/car-news/2021/plug-in-car-grant-cut/
I've got a latch with a duff keyswitch here, I'll try bunging power onto the two wires in the morning and see what happens.
Two latches both with a dead central locking motor would be one hell of a coincidence. Are you sure you are counting the pins correctly? Pins 1 and 4 would be the ones that connect to an Orange/Black and Pink/Black in the loom. As you say, power one way round should lock it and power the other way round should unlock it.
Yes it is, from the manual:
If it was running hot, I'd be checking the mixture but as it is running cool (and still doing the usual 200+ miles per tank of LPG), I don't think it's running rich. Point is, it isn't getting hot, after idling for over an hour it had crept up to 87 degrees and no hotter when slogging uphill with a trailer on the back.
Seems that it's running cool but not too cool so I'm happy with that. I'll have to check it again when the ambient is much higher just out of curiosity.
No additional fuses for the trailer socket. Assuming it has the factory trailer socket fitted and not an aftermarket one, Blue wire goes to pin 2 and is the rear fog light feed, RH indicator is Green on pin 4. That is for the UK standard 7 pin socket, if you have one of the 12 pin ones, the colours will be the same but the pin numbers won't be. They wiring from the trailer socket connects to a socket that dangles behind the RH rear light cluster. It's a white 6 way connector where the feed coming in for the RH indicator is on a Green/Yellow wire which changes to Green at that point before disappearing through a grommet in the floor of the car. There is likely to be another connector, a Supaseal one, under the car before the wiring gets to the socket itself.
Pulling left would suggest binding NS brake, not offside. But it's worth pulling them both off, checking the sliding pins they are bolted to to make sure they are moving freely and pumping the pistons out slightly and pushing them back in. If it is the sliding pins, you may be able to free them off or it's new calliper carrier time. If replacing callipers it's probably best to replace as a pair so you don't get uneven braking.
There's a lot more left in the tank when it says it's empty than you think, suppose there's less chance of running out. I only found out about the tilt when I once stopped at the side of a road with a very steep camber to deal with a phone call. I had a 1/4 tank of fuel when I stopped and half a tank when I pulled away after a few minutes.....
Today I refitted my windscreen top trim. When I had the screen replaced a few weeks ago, I checked RAVE to see how to remove it. The instructions say to slide a credit card between the trim and the roof and push the clips towards the left side of the car. Yeah right Mr Land Rover, not when they've been there for over 20 years. I suspect using a metal paint scraper and a hammer you might be able to move them but I failed with a plastic card (although I did use a Nectar card and not a credit card so maybe that had something to do with it) and the windscreen fitted failed with his special trim clip removing tool (which looked like a credit card with a handle on it). Between me and the windscreen fitter we managed to slide the trim sideways out of the clips but in doing so, some of them broke. When it came to putting it back there was about 3 that were beyond being reused so we spaced the remainder out evenly, fitted them to the car then pushed the trim downwards so it clicked back into the clips. All fine and back together.
Except that at speeds over 75 mph, there was this pretty horrendous wind noise from the top of the windscreen. Decided to get some new clips and do it again. For some reason I had it in my mind that there should be 11 in total, so I bought 15 (https://www.lrdirect.com/DCE10038L-Clip/). They arrived the other day and came in 3 packs. Genuine Rover parts in packs of 5. Got stuck in today, off with the A pillar trims, slide the top trim towards the left side of the car and the clips all came out, albeit not all of them in one piece. Fit the new clips to the studs on the body and realised there aren't 11 but 8 of them. Push the trim downwards one clip at a time and a nice healthy click was heard as it snapped into place. A Pillar trims back on and took it for a quick blast, no wind noise even up to 85 mph, job done.
But if anyone needs any replacement clips, I've got 7 brand new, genuine Rover ones, going spare. That means you only need to be able to get you trim out without breaking 1 of the original ones......
mad-as wrote:
Question , with anti freeze how dose it work when the anti freeze bit evaporates at around 75 dec when thermostats run at 82+ dec . do you have a specific thermostat for colder areas ?
Huh? Neat Ethylene Glycol has a boiling point, the temperature at which it will evaporate, of 197 degrees C, so if mixed 50/50 with water, with a boiling point of 100 degrees C, that means the coolant will have a boiling point of around 149 degrees. But that is at atmospheric pressure and the reason the cooling system is pressurised is to raise the boiling point even further. Hence you can often run at 120 degrees without it boiling over as long as the pressure cap is good and it doesn't spit the coolant out (then you overheat due to a lack of coolant). That's why running on plain water isn't a good idea as, other than it corrodes the engine and clogs the waterways, it has a lower boiling point that an anti-freeze mix.
No idea what the spec of this orange OAT stuff they recommend for the Thor is though.
There may be nothing wrong with it. The Ascot was showing empty with the gauge not even reaching to bottom mark, it took 3 gallons before it started to read anything. It you can tilt the car, left side down and right side up will cause the float to lift. Nano can show you the fuel level and it might be easier to see a slight change on that rather than on the gauge.
That's a new one, para 4.1.4 in the manual https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/4-lamps-reflectors-and-electrical-equipment. It used to say that you could convert to HID or LED as long as the beam pattern was correct, headlamp washers and wipers were fitted and the car had self levelling suspension or lights. So on a higher spec P38 with the headlamp wash wipe you were OK if you got decent LED bulbs and not the crappy Chinese ones that threw light around everywhere. I suspect they've had to fail so many where LEDs have been fitted to cars that don't have self levelling or the cheapo ones have been used so the beam pattern is wrong (and impossible to get right as on the pair that I tried) that they've decided to make it easy and fail the lot.
I wonder how they will differentiate on things like the modern Mercs that have LED on the higher spec cars or as an option on lower spec ones that ordinarily would have halogen?
Part number is AMR3020 but everywhere shows it as NLA. Mine split where you grab hold of it, in fact it looked like it had worn away with so many people opening it over the years so I built up the worn part with epoxy resin. Probably a few available from breakers though and might be in better condition over here as they won't have been subjected to such extremes of temperature.
romanrob wrote:
WIfe just got a Tesla (I haven't even been in it yet... too busy fixing the P38)
and the P38 is keeping you too busy to start divorcing her obviously........