You'll get a tail light fault if the BeCM sees either too low current draw (open circuit bulb) or too much current (short circuit bulb or holder). What lights do you have on the trailer? I once connected a 21W beacon to one sidelight circuit and after a short time it came up with the tail light fault warning. So if you have multiple lights running off the sidelight circuit (side markers?) it will draw too much current. It also cut power to that circuit so not only did the beacon go out but so did the tailights on that side.

It's slightly lower spec than the Hankook, 100Ah against 105 and 830 CCA compared with 1000. But, it's still a higher spec than that recommended so should be fine.

For them to sync it needs both the keyswitch and CDL switch in the latch to be working and the receiver being able to receive the signal from the fob. A failed keyswitch isn't always obvious if you always lock with the fob as it is only used when the key is turned in the lock. So, you may have an iffy keyswitch or it could be an RF problem. If you've got a local source of RF, it may not be something that will cause battery drain but it might be something that desensitises the receiver. The range on my keyfob is much lower at my daughters house than at home as she has a mobile phone site pretty close by. Although the frequencies used are far away from the 433 MHz used by the fob, they are considerably stronger so the receiver is being desensitised so needs to see a stronger signal on the operating frequency. Waving the fob near to the rear window aerial means it works whereas at home I can lock and unlock the car from inside the house.

Receiver antenna disconnected?

I read somewhere that they are supposed to reduce intake noise by smoothing out any pulses. One of mine has them the other doesn't and they don't seem to do a lot but obviously somebody thought they were beneficial.

I'm not so sure. We have a history of classic cars in this country with numerous suppliers and re-manufacturers of parts. It's also recognised by Government with the Historic tax class and removing the need for an MoT test for anything over 40 years old. A lot of other countries simply regard them as old cars and even some that do recognise classics have a historic tax class but with only limited use allowed either limiting the mileage they can clock up or by restricting the times of year they can be used. We are likely to be in a far better position than some.

Chasman wrote:

Need to repair the sunroof mech when I get a weather window. All tips appreciated.

Don't bother. I bought one of the 3D printed repair kits from eBay. Spent about 3 days carefully filing and fettling until I was happy everything was moving smoothly. Put it all back together, pressed the button and it slid back, tried it the other way and it slid forward again. Did the full movement to set it (while it hadn't been working I'd used the Nanocom to tell the BeCM it hadn't got a sunroof to stop it beeping at me because it wasn't set). Brilliant, all working perfectly. Until the next time I opened it. Halfway through the movement there was a crack from above my head and one of the new bits had broken. Went to East Coast Range Rovers and bought a complete working cassette (and retrimmed the headlining while it was out to fit the cassette).

I've owned 3 cars on 18" wheels and my everyday one is on 16s. Mine are poverty spec 7 x 16 (as ordered by Greater Manchester Police when it was new) so runs on 235/70x16 tyres and the ride is much more compliant than the others on 18s. Tyre choice does make a fair bit of difference though.

Welcome to the pub, you'll find a similarly inflicted bunch on here and, while it seems you've been there and done it, I'm sure there's things you haven't found yet that someone has.

From wikipedia:
Gems " Lucas "
4.0 - 190hp @ 4750rpm & 320nm "236 LB-FT" @ 3200rpm
4.6 - 225hp @ 4750rpm & 380nm "280 LB-FT" @ 3200rpm

Bosch "Motronic"
4.0 - 188hp @ 4750rpm & 339nm "250 LB-FT" @ 2600rpm
4.6 - 218hp @ 4750rpm & 407nm "300 LB-FT" @ 2600rpm

So the GEMS 4.6 produces more power than the Thor at the expense of a bit of bottom end grunt and the Thor 4.0 litre (as used in the Disco) is the least powerful. However, I've got two GEMS, a 4.0 litre and a 4.6 and in all honesty the difference in performance isn't really noticeable when driving.

Or you could always buy the original....
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/4136918786339619/?

Agree on the lifters, there's no way you'd fit a new camshaft without new followers but it wouldn't, or at least shouldn't, need rocker pedestal spacers unless the unloaded part of the cam was at a different height to original. It would also need to be quite a way out as there is a fair amount of tolerance on the hydraulic lifters (see http://www.v8developments.co.uk/technical/valve_train/index.shtml). As long as the cam has been specifically designed for the engine then the unloaded section should be the same depth and the timing should be right so no need for a vernier.

But even old Jap bikes are going for silly money these days https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/auctions/1972-kawasaki-h2-750-MgDzJ4?. Values of things like the original Honda 400 Four are completely mental.

Seems others don't agree

https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/auctions/1971-range-rover-suffix-a-K8WdVg?

https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/auctions/1998-series-1-land-rover-discovery-v8i-xs-Jgz3dn?

https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/auctions/2006-range-rover-35th-anniversary-edition-A4wx18?

To become a classic something doesn't even have to be that desirable. People are paying silly money for what were regarded as mundane in their day. Have you seen the price a Mk 2 Escort is going for these days? Even a humble 1300 will fetch silly money, a rusted shell with a tree growing through it sold for over 4 grand recently as it still had the VIN plate and a V5. Don't even start me on VW Beetles, they were horrible when they were new but look what they go for these days......

Don't look to be a lot wrong there, combustion chambers, pistons and bores look fine. Check the head face for warp, clean it up and you'll be ready to start putting it back together. Radiator simply lifts out once the hoses are off. They did originally have a small bolt on each side at the bottom but if it's aver been out they will almost certainly have been left out. Yes, there isn't much you can't drill with Cobalt drills and a can of cutting oil, I had to drill the heads off 4 stainless steel bolts yesterday which would have taken the edge off standard HSS drills in no time.

But as the values of Classics have gone through the roof, even if they get half way, it'll be good. I paid £900 for my Classic LSE, kept it for 4 years and sold it for £2,300. I had been hoping to get what I paid for it back and was godsmacked when it went for what it did. I suspect by now, it would sell for double that despite being a bit scruffy but reasonably solid (or as solid as any Classic can be).

Your local Land Rover dealer......
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/fvf10002l-clip.html

Just been looking at the specs for the standard cams, 4.0 litre (GEMS and Thor) has a duration on both inlet and exhaust, of 285 degrees, GEMS 4.6 has a duration of 264 degrees and Thor 4.6 is 272 degrees but the inlet opens 14 degrees earlier and the exhaust 8 degrees earlier. So the Kent cam with a duration of 262 degrees would suggest initially that it wouldn't be as good but we don't know what the timing is (and I doubt they will publish it or you could get a blank ground to match). The only thing that is different is the Kent cam has a lift of 11.2mm compared with a lift of 9.94mm. The rocker gear has a ratio of 1.6:1, so the valves will open 2mm more. However, I've no idea how, why or what sort of difference that makes, cam timing has always been a bit of a black art to me.

The crank sprocket will only go on with the mark in the 12 o'clock position when the crank is a TDC on number 1. So, following the process in the Overhaul Manual, you fit he sprockets with no chain, line up the marks, pull the sprockets off, fit the chain and then slide them on.

Assume you are setting off before the ABS, Brake and TC lights have gone out? Until they go out you've insufficient pressure in the power system for them to give full braking power, both of mine are exactly the same. They'll stop but not very well. Whether it is supposed to be like this or if the pressure is slowly dropping while parked I've no idea but if the Linley isn't then maybe it is down to slight wear in the seals inside the modulator?

Loose connector on the temperature sensor. I had similar with a transfer box overheat message and that was a loose spade connector. Gave it a squeeze with a pair of pliers and never see it since.

Sensor is the one with a pair of blue wires attached to the side of the transmission cooler down next to the LH headlight (or it is on a V8 anyway).

On a car with no TC, you can change to 2 wheel TC by changing the modulator and ECU for the 2 wheel type. Whether you can change from none or 2 wheel to 4 wheel TC, I'm not sure but it wouldn't be an easy swap. The non TC and 2 wheel TC use the Wabco Type C ECU, whereas the 4 wheel uses the Wabco Type D and they are physically different and have different connections (Type C has one big connector but Type D has three smaller ones).