Yes to the grant means that the HEVAC is trying to engage the clutch but with only 700 grams of R134a in there, the pressure switch will be open circuit so the clutch won't engage. It really does need a full charge, that is why you have nothing at pin 86 and when you force it in with the jumper you are only getting coldish air from the vents.

While on the subject of AC, I filled a diesel P38 yesterday which only takes 1100 grams. The owner has had the car for almost 10 years and never had working AC but was complaining that his kids weren't happy being driven around in a mobile greenhouse over the summer. I pressure tested it for him and the condenser was leaking. He replaced that and I put 10 bar of Nitrogen into it and unplugged the compressor so it didn't try and engage. 3 weeks later it still had 10 bar of Nitrogen, so we declared it good. With a full charge of refrigerant, the Nano reported an evaporator temperature of 4-6 C but air from the vents was reading around 10C. Another good reason for fixing the leaks in the ducting..... But of course now he has another problem, condensate pouring into the passenger footwell.

Yes, propshaft is simple enough, 4 bolts at each end. VC is fairly easily doable too. A bit tight with the crossmember in place and the hardest part is breaking the seal from the RTV. Easiest way, rather than trying to prise it off, is to knock it round so you twist it free.

If you get a propshaft it will come complete with the universal joints and flanges at each end. To put that amount of stress on it, I would suspect the viscous coupling in the transfer case is seized. That lives under the round cover on the front of the transfer case, where the front propshaft bolts on. Did the front tyres seems to skip across the road if you pulled away with the steering in full lock? That is a sure sign the VC is seized. In fact, if the VC is seized that is probably what caused the wear on the front tyres.

I don't know too much about the diesel, I steer well clear of them, but it was my understanding that a stretched cam chain was the usual cause of hot starting problems? This could be cured, for a time anyway, by rotating the injector pump to adjust the timing.

Not NLA or the Land Rover Classic site would show as NLA but it doesn't, it shows as not available to order online (https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/alr6939-seal-assembly-a-post-header.html), not cheap though. The JLR site has been showing lots of things not available recently, probably as a result of the system hack they suffered. They don't want people ordering stuff if their computer system won't tell them where in the warehouse to find it!

I had the Nanocom plugged into mine yesterday and the IAT was showing -1C when the HEVAC was showing an external temperature of 12C, so 13 degrees difference. I was taking readings to compare with the 4.0SE as that is still running like a dog on petrol (but perfectly on LPG). The 4.0SE was parked in the sun so showing 14C external and the IAT was showing 1C, so the same 13 degrees difference.

The regulator I got was one of these https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/hc-cargo-25072361.html which fits the Magnetti Marelli alternator fitted to the GEMS. Although a .co.uk website, the company are actually based in Germany so may ship to Australia or just Google the part number and see if you can find a local suppler (it is also used on a number of other cars so may be far more common than you think). You can't replace the commutator though and the only way you would be able to get a complete rotor would be from another alternator. In which case you may as well just fit the other alternator.....

My satnav is permanently wired and stuck on the bottom of the windscreen in much the same place as you have put the Carplay screen, just closer to the screen. You can run the wires towards the screen and the forward edge of the dashboard has a rubber on it that bears on the inside of the windscreen. That allows you to poke the wires down below that and run them to one side. For my satnav and dashcam (mounted at the top of the screen next to the rear view mirror), I installed an extra cigar lighter socket low down on the centre console side panel and ran the cable from that to a dual outlet cigar lighter socket tie wrapped to the wiring duct behind the knee panel so the two items are plugged into that. That way I can keep the cigar lighter/ashtray flap closed and not have any wires dangling over the top of the centre console unless I need to use one of the two USB sockets I've mounted inside the ashtray that is.

I've still got to mount the rear camera on the Aygo but when I do that I'll have another play with the line out (as the Aygo has an Aux in socket on the stereo) and see if I can identify why there was a constant crackle on the audio when using that. It sounded like GSM interference from the phone but that shouldn't be a problem these days with everything running UMTS and LTE. I'll try connecting my Android phone to it and see if it is an iPhone problem. If it is, that will give her the excuse she has been waiting for to replace her elderly iPhone with a newer one and just hope that cures it.

Not even sure you can get Cunifer in that size. I used 8mm OD copper central heating microbore pipe (off the shelf for a 10m roll in the local DIY shop) and 7.8mm ID good quality hose so gave a good tight fit. Had to use a smear of rubber grease on the ends of the pipes to get them to push into the hose and once in they sealed without any clips.

The pipe from the pump to the threaded end on the filter have a short length of flexi hose on them, so I cut that off leaving as much flexi as possible and connected to the copper pipe with decent quality stainless hose clips. I also cut the return pipe back to a non-rusted bit and joined that to the copper with a short length of hose and the same clips.

When dropping the tank make sure you disconnect all the breather hoses going to the filler neck.

I've done both of mine for the same reason and didn't need to replace the seal or locking ring on either of them. Rather than replacing steel pipes with steel pipes, I replaced mine with copper, see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1620-what-have-you-done-to-your-range-rover-today?page=74#pid43489. Unless they come with the pipes, you'll also need the olives and nuts to connect the pipes to the pump.

If the car is locked with the key in the door, that turns on the immobiliser and alarm but they are turned off if it is then unlocked with either the key or the fob. However, if it was locked with the fob it MUST be unlocked with the fob, unlocking with the key unlocks the door but doesn't turn off the alarm and immobiliser, you then need to input the EKA to turn them off.

It isn't possible to turn off the immobiliser even though many people think you can. When you get your Nanocom and start looking through the BeCM settings, you will find one marked Immobiliser which will be Enable or Disabled. That doesn't turn off the immobiliser, it turns off passive immobilisation. Passive immobilisation turns the immobiliser back on if you unlock the car (with key or fob) but then don't start the car within 30 seconds. If it is Enabled, the coil around the ignition switch causes the fob to send the Unlock code to turn off the immobiliser. If the coil or fob isn't working, when you try to start the car, the message centre will come up with Engine Immobilised, Press Remote or Enter Code. If it is Disabled, it doesn't matter how long you leave it between unlocking the car and trying to start it as the immobiliser will have been turned off when you unlocked the car and will stay off. This is slightly different to the automatic locking where if you unlock the car but don't open the door, it will relock (and set the immobiliser again) if you don't open a door. This is to prevent you accidentally unlocking the car, usually with the fob in your pocket, and leaving it unlocked.

It comes with a base and a sticky pad so, as the top of the P38 dash is virtually flat, it should fit on there easily enough. It has a built in FM transmitter anyway so all you need do is tune your radio to it, no need for an extra unit. Whenever switched off it defaults to 87.5MHz when switched back on though. That works extremely well on step daughter's Aygo but that has a roof mounted aerial so the distance between the unit and the aerial is less than 1m with only the windscreen glass in between. My experience with using a DAB adapter with FM output on a previous P38 wasn't as good due to the unit being at the dash and the aerial being that much further away at the rear. Every so often, I'd drive past someone else also using the same FM frequency for the same purpose and hear their signal instead.

Not only will it allow you to stream music as well as displaying Waze, it works as a hands free unit for phone calls. Seems to work reasonably well even though the mic is in the unit itself and not remote allowing you to fit it a bit closer (both my P38s have hands free in them with the mic at the top of the A post). The mic also allows you to voice control it too.

The other box under there is the amplifier for the radio aerial and nothing to do with the fob. Unless your car is a base model, you will have aerials for the radio in both side windows. One side is FM only while the other side is FM/AM (but I don't remember which side is which).

The signal from the fob is received by the receiver and the data stream travels along the Orange/Red wire in the 3 way connector at the receiver to the BeCM at pin 6 of C326. The fact that it was working but only when very close to the car, suggests that either the fob isn't sending a very strong signal, pretty unlikely with new batteries in it (it takes 2 CR2025 batteries), or the receiver isn't receiving it very well. Do you have tint film on the rear windows as that could be blocking the signal to the receiver? I suppose you could try attaching a longer piece of wire to the terminal on the receiver where the blue wire is connected and running that across to the other side of the car. That way the distance the signal has to travel will be less.

Nigel's car is a 2000 or 2001 and I don't think the front end had been apart since it left Lode Lane. Brake Calliper came off easily enough but the bolts holding the calliper carrier on needed the club hammer and even when they started moving, still needed a breaker bar to move them until the last couple of turns. Brake disc needed the soft faced mallet from behind which meant jacking the other front wheel off the ground so it could be rotated. Disc backplate didn't have rusted bolt heads and all 3 of the bolts came out easily as did the ABS sensor but the 4 bolts holding the hub in place again needed the breaker bar until the last couple of turns. Then it was down to bolting an old brake disc on back to front and belting it with a sledge hammer to get the hub to move. But with everything cleaned up, it all went back together in next to no time.

I've had it on mine but only the drivers seat belt as that is obviously the one that gets the most use. I changed the buckle for a used one that has obviously had less use than mine and it is fine. I've checked the part number and some suppliers are suggesting that the part number supersedes to the one for a 99 onwards car but it doesn't unless you change the belt too. The older belt will not click into the later buckle.

They always read low but it is irrelevant. It only does anything if the intake temperature rises above 55C. Mine usually reads around -5C when the ambient is 10C. Even if it is disconnected it will flag an error code but have no affect.

The receiver is under the rear side panel on the right hand side of the car, the bit that supports the luggage compartment cover. It has a 3 way connector plugged into it and a single blue wire which goes to the antenna etched into the side window. People often unplug the blue wire so the receiver doesn't have an antenna attached to it so you need to be very close for it to receive the signal from the fob. In your case it will be worse as I assume the car is LHD, so the signal from the fob is being blocked by the rest of the car. On a RHD the signal only has to travel a couple of metres down the side of the car, in your case it has to travel further and through the car.

This is where it lives

Two things can affect the sync and cause it to not work. If the blue wire on the receiver has been disconnected to make the receiver 'deaf' and reduce the chances of nearby RF causing a flat battery, it may be that it isn't sensitive enough to detect the signal from the fob. In that case, if you have two keys you can use one in the door to do the turning and hold the one you are trying to sync next to the aerial etched into the RH rear window. Second problem is local RF that is affecting the receivers ability to detect the signal from the fob. Doing the above may work or just take the car out into the countryside where there are no radio masts anywhere nearby and try it again.

It must be a good time for ABS sensors. Nigelbb came over on Thursday as he had a droning right front wheel bearing that needed changing. While out it is a good idea to replace the axle oil seal and, as I've had a problem with an aftermarket one in the past, I've always used genuine LR ever since. LR spares are still affected but Island were shown as having 4 genuine in stock, so I bought one from them. Knowing that most of the time ABS sensors refuse to come out or come out in pieces, picked a used genuine one up from a local place. That way I was all set for everything. As it happened, once the brake disc and dust shield were off so I'd got better access, got hold of the ABS sensor, gave it a twist and out it came, easy as anything.