Plug and play, just don't turn the ignition on with it plugged in but not mounted.

Probably because FUEL GAUGE SENDER UNIT FAULT is too long to fit in the massage centre.... For the average owner, they wouldn't know what the gauge sender is, all he'd know is the fuel gauge isn't working correctly.

Not sure if relevant but the brake light switch takes power from the single connector on the back of the BeCM, the one that you access from the rear footwell. The HEVAC backlighting is on the same feed so if the HEVAC dims when you put the brakes on, that is suspect. There's one caveat to that. It is like that on a GEMS and I was recently told that a Thor BeCM will work in a GEMS but not the other way round. I thought they weren't interchangeable but this came from Les at Classic Rides North Wales who supplies the aftermarket keys.

I've seen FUEL GAUGE FAULT come up on the dash before, accompanied by the fuel gauge dropping to zero and the low fuel warning light coming on. However, that was due to wear on the track at a certain point that coincided with the amount of fuel I normally keep in the car. As the car runs on Propane, the petrol is purely a get you home option so the fuel gauge very rarely moved resulting in the wear. Replacing the fuel pump module cured it. About the only other thing I did was give the plug to it a squirt of contact cleaner before plugging it in.

Changing when pressing the brake pedal would suggest, as you rightly say, a bad ground connection. Fuel gauge and brake lights don't share a supply so it can't be a fuse but on a LHD car, both the ABS ECU and the fuel pump/sender assembly go to E0559 ground point. Your task is now to find out where E0559 is.....

Changed the engine temperature sensor. Drove to Stansted to pick up a mate last night and noticed my temperature gauge seemed to be showing fractionally higher than normal. Rather than sit at 12 o'clock, mine has always sat at about 1 minute past and it seemed like it was at 2 minutes past. When I stopped I plugged in the Nanocom to see what it was running at to be told 51C.....

Errm, that isn't right. Looked at the stored faults and saw an interesting selection, like coolant temperature too low, and coolant temperature too low for closed loop fuelling. Now as my car has a single point LPG system that is almost totally independent of the petrol system (the only thing it uses is the throttle position sensor), those faults won't cause a problem with running. But I'd rather do something as I do very occasionally run on petrol and it would be nice to be able to see what temperature it is running at.

On the GEMS there's two temperature sensors, one for the gauge and one for the ECU. The one for the gauge is either an AMR5929 green top which is NLA or on earlier cars, one with a single wire connector and a second one for the ECU which has a black or brown top and feeds the ECU. A few years ago, someone on the dark side suggested that this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-0280130026-Temperature-Sensor/dp/B001CO2VU0 was a replacement for the green top one so I bought one. Only to find that it isn't, the thread is wrong so it won't screw into the manifold, so I bunged it on the shelf in the garage and left it there.

This morning, after the car had stood overnight, I checked the coolant temperature according to Nano and it showed 11C, yet infra-red thermometer showed the engine to be at 18C. Found the Bosch one and plugged that in with it just dangling on the wires and the Nano showed 17C. Infra-red thermometer showed it to be 17C in my garage so that made sense. Swapped them and can confirm that the Bosch one is a direct swap for ETC8496, the one that drives the ECU. The thread is correct, the connector is correct and the readings it gives are correct (confirmed by looking at coolant temperature on the Nano and comparing it with what the infra-red thermometer was showing). Took the car for a run and it was showing the normal 85-89C running temperature and when at 89C, the gauge was reading what I saw last night.

RAVE says to lubricate with neat antifreeze.

As long as you've taken the coolant reservoir cap off so there's no pressure in the system, not a lot. I use one of the small takeaway plastic trays to catch what comes out.

H&H has the smooth finish one so you'd have to get it painted in the correct colour. I'm wondering what it would cost to ship from the UK if the steel backing was removed to reduce the weight. Plenty of decent smooth finish ones over here.

Confess, what have you done?

As my car is still blind in one eye and had agreed to take a mate to Stansted airport in the early hours of this morning, I decided I'd use the red 4.0SE instead. It hasn't done much more than the odd 60 mile round trip so checked it over and then thought it might be worth having a look at the HEVAC distribution motor. The book had been on for a while and the fault was showing as distribution blend motor stalled. I drove it a few days ago when the weather was hot and the AC was working well, the blowers were ramping up to full speed to try to cool the interior but all the air was coming out of the windscreen vent, none from the floor or face vents. So had the instrument cluster out to get to it. The usual cause of a stalled motor is stiff shafts and the distribution motor drives 3 instead of just one like the other two, so putting more load on the motor. A squirt of silicone oil is usually enough to get them moving freely but they need to be aligned.

As this is more pertinent to Max's thread https://rangerovers.pub/topic/3864-no-blower-air-to-windscreen, I've put the finer points in there.....

The distribution motor drive 3 different flaps and they all need to be correctly synchronised. It is easily possible for two of them to jump a tooth or two due to the design of the main cog, almost certainly made the way it is to allow them to jump a tooth rather than break something or burn out the blend motor. The other one is on a lever and can also become disconnected.

Fortunately, they put alignment marks on the cogs and it is fairly easy to re-align them by turning the shaft with a large screwdriver while holding the teeth on the main cog away from it with a smaller screwdriver blade.

These pics show the alignment marks and how they should be.....

The other shaft, which I think is the one that opens and closes the airflow to the windscreen vent is driven off a lever and can come adrift so just flops about leaving the vent either open or closed depending on what position it is in. This picture shows it at either end of the travel.

My dashcam managed to catch it just before impact. 3 frames later (3/30th of a second) there's bits of glass flying out......

Today I found out what a pheasant at 70mph does when it hits your headlight. It could have been worse though, it completely avoided the grille and bonnet although it took a fair amount of screenwash to get the remains off the windscreen.....

It even took both bulbs out!!!

Many years ago I worked for BT and the working week dropped from 40 hours to 37.5. Everyone said, big deal, half an hour a day, so they came up with the idea of the 9 day fortnight. So I had every other Monday off and one year, with Easter and the other spring bank holidays, I only worked one Monday in 9 weeks.....

I'm now self employed but semi retired so I choose to work a maximum of 2 days a week. I did 3 days one week and was knackered!

Bank holiday season is over now, you've got to wait until August for the next one......

The little gas strut stops the glovebox falling right down when you open it. When it still had gas in it, it damped the glovebox movement but the gas will have fallen out years ago.

But the matrix O rings are on the other side? What were you doing in there?

Errm, I think so. It's been a while since I've been in there, the distribution blend motor is the one that normally needs attention before the others.

Yes you will, it's mirror image to the RHS but without the steering column and instruments to get in the way.

It gets the ground through the outstation but that goes through a 4 way connector at the end of the rubber tube at the A post, so looking there might be a good idea. If it is high resistance it will be fine for locking and mirror but will fail as soon as you try to draw lots of current through it.

You're right, the sliding joints are on the ducts between bowers and matrix and matrix to end vents. You won't see anything behind the instrument cluster as your car is LHD and the linkage is on the RHS of the heater matrix. The distribution motor drives a large quadrant but there is also a lever that goes forward towards the bulkhead and I think it is that one that deals with the flaps to the windscreen vents. It runs in a slot on the back of the quadrant but can come out if it gets stiff. Or the distribution motor isn't doing anything and that is why you have the book showing. With the glovebox out (and maybe also the passenger airbag), you'll be able to operate the buttons to change where the air is supposed to go and see if the top blend motor moves.

Press the Prog button and see if it is the same, if it is then it will be either the distribution blend motor (top one on the right hand side), or the linkage has jumped a tooth. Distribution motor drives 3 levers and they need to be set correctly. Top ducts have a couple of sliding joins in them and they can come apart so the air just blows around behind the dash rather than out of the vents. Driver's side can be accessed by taking the instrument cluster out (do NOT turn the ignition on with the cluster unplugged), passenger side needs the glovebox out.