Does it still have the part number on it or has that been taken off?

From what I can see, there are no connections to move, all it needs is the 4 additional wires adding.

Just had a thought, I've got the Disco 2 diagrams so checked them. The version with the HK DSP amp does indeed have all four (left and right, front and rear) outputs from the head unit going to the amp. The rear inputs from the head unit go to pins 8 and 16 for the rear right channel and pins 29 and 37 for the rear left channel. If you look at the diagram in the thread I linked to, you'll see that these pins aren't used in the P38. So, in theory, two extra pairs of wires from the head unit to the amp and connected to those unused pins in the plug and it should work. In theory......

But if that is all that is needed, anyone with a dead DSP amp could buy the considerably cheaper and more readily available Disco amp and just fit that and add 4 bits of wire.

Just had a thought, I've got the Disco 2 diagrams so checked them. The version with the HK DSP amp does indeed have all four (left and right, front and rear) outputs from the head unit going to the amp. The rear inputs from the head unit go to pins 8 and 16 for the rear right channel and pins 29 and 37 for the rear left channel. If you look at the diagram in the thread I linked to, you'll see that these pins aren't used in the P38. So, in theory, two extra pairs of wires from the head unit to the amp and connected to those unused pins in the plug and it should work. In theory......

But if that is all that is needed, anyone with a dead DSP amp could buy the considerably cheaper and more readily available Disco amp and just fit that and add 4 bits of wire.

The P38 system only supplies left and right channels to the amp and signal is split inside the amp to feed the rear speakers. When installing Marty's alternative, you have to run additional wires from the rear outputs on the head unit (which are there just not used) to feed the amps that drive the rear speakers. Without a full circuit diagram I don't know if you would be able to run the additional wires to the Disco amp and make the rears work.

If you don't have the DSP features, it sounds almost as if they have done a similar job to Marty (who used 4 door amps from earlier pre-DSP cars) or something similar to what I have all the bits to put together but just haven't got around to it (see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/8-info-p38-alpine-dsp-amp-connections-and-wiring?page=1#pid30814) rather than supplying a DSP amp.

Did you get the exact replacement? A DSP amp from a Disco has a very similar part number and will work in a P38 but with front speakers only.

Mine has had the clicky pedal ever since I have owned it, it is only just recently another strange thing has occurred (very long pedal after 120 miles without touching the brakes). As with any brake issues, the first thing to do is to bleed the brakes following the full RAVE process and see if it goes away. If you are left with just the clicky feel, I would ignore it as I have with mine. It may be a symptom of the broken plastic bit or it may just be a bit of wear at the point the pedal joins the brake actuator rod.

You can fit the later unit but that is quite a process as the later ones have 4 wheel traction control so you have to change the ECU and do some wiring mods. A full write up of what you need to do is here https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DBMo28K-ZaOw6bn9xa5Ze8yjAuVOPe2V/view?usp=sharing

I also wondered about getting a later modulator with the stainless washers and swapping just them over into an earlier modulator rather than spending around £150 on the kit. No idea how feasible that is and I would need a pair on modulators to strip down side by side. I have a non-TC modulator from a base spec car and was going to pull that apart but someone wants it so I've said he can have it as they are so rare with so few base spec cars having been made.

Chrisp38 wrote:

It was 6 degrees at 5am earlier this week

I wouldn't know, I'm retired so 5am is the middle of the night for me. Although mine behaved itself when I went to the in-laws in Latvia in December and never saw anything higher than -3C for over a week. The only thing I used to have in the cold was mixing bits on the HEVAC display which would slowly come back as the interior warmed up. That was before I did the zebra strip though so it no longer does it.

Not sure about where you are but maybe because after a couple of colder days the weather has got warmer again? It has in my area anyway.

Squirting the lock won't do anything as the actual switch is a separate item on the back of the lock and the lube won't ever get that far. You've nothing to lose by checking the connections on the underside of the fusebox and on the feeds at the BeCM studs too.

It's an interesting one and I'll let you know when I've found it. Mine has done similar 4 times now but not when driving. My missus has a habit of opening the door to get out of the car just as I'm pulling up. 3 times over the last few months, as she has opened the door, the stereo goes off and reboots and I've also had the initial start up message, in my case, a single beep and Fuse 20 blown (which is another story, Fuse 20 isn't blown and even if it was it wouldn't matter as it powers the passenger electric seat I don't have). A couple of weeks ago it did it when I opened my door before switching the engine off too. It would all point to a bad connection somewhere so something momentarily cuts the power and, in my case, could possibly tied in with the interior lights or door outstation supplies. With it cutting the stereo but not affecting the engine running, it would be the accessory supply rather than the ignition switched supply.

My fusebox was brand new about 5 years ago (when you could still buy them for just over £100) and I've got a replacement BeCM power board to put in to get rid of the Fuse 20 blown message (a nit uncommon problem caused by an open circuit resistor on the voltage sensing circuit) and was thinking that may cure it. But in saying that, it will be months before I will be able to say that it has cured it as it is so intermittent. Proving something is no longer happening is like proving a negative though. Just because it doesn't do it for months doesn't mean it has been cured, just that it hasn't done it for months.

I assume the Duchess has the DSP amp? If it has, there are two fuses that supply permanent live to it, fuse 1, which also supplies the head unit, the clock, instrument cluster, window switchpack amongst others and pulling that one causes the radio to lose any stored settings and the trip computer to resent to zero, and fuse 15 which also supplies some of the interior lights and the tailgate latch. So probably better to pull fuse 15 initially.

Looks a very nice job to me. In theory the only weak point now would be the electrical connections as there's no physical pot and wiper to wear. What is that you've used to secure it to the trailing arm?

You've got 3 wires to the inertia switch, a White/Orange Which supplies the power to it from the fuel pump relay, a White/Blue which sends that power to the fuel pump when the inertia switch isn't tripped, but when it trips that White/Blue is connected to the White/Purple which goes to the BeCM to tell it that the switch has tripped. As the BeCM will see a ground via the pump, it is that ground that it is looking for. That suggests that there is a wiring fault (or an internal fault in the inertia switch) so there is a ground on the White/Purple wire. There's no connections between the two, just a wire that goes directly to pin 2 of C1289 at the BeCM. This is a green 20 way connector on the front of the BeCM, 2nd one in from the left on the lower row.

Have a look at the pictures in this thread https://rangerovers.pub/topic/3864-no-blower-air-to-windscreen, unlike the temperature blend motors which only move one flap, the distribution motor is moving 3 so there's more bits that need lubrication.

It sounds like the grease on the pivots is starting to get a bit sticky. So it fails on initial start up when everything is cold but moves freely enough once the heater box has warmed up. I've found silicone oil to be the best for both softening the old grease and lubricating everything.

You should have the sensors in the pre-cat (as in, nearer the engine) holes and bungs in the post cat holes. Bungs with the right thread are often sold as replacement sump plugs.

The O2 sensors come with the sealing washers, much like the washers on spark plugs.

Dropping the crossmember isn't as bad as it looks. You'll need a jack to support the rear of the gearbox, a crowbar to get the crossmember out from between the chassis rails and a club hammer (and another jack) to put it back.

My boat is very slightly Range Rover related as I tow it behind mine. In fact, when launching and recovering it back onto the trailer, I back down the slipway until I can hear the exhaust bubbling because the ends are under water.

This was last Tuesday when I took it out with my stepdaughter and my boating mate Phil (aka Holland and Holland). He shot a brief video to send to my other half who was slaving away in the office at work while we were out in the sunshine having fun.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HelWU9AACzw

Unfortunately it didn't all go quite as planned. After one run along the river we were sitting next to the slipway and decided to have one more run, only to catch the prop on the concrete edge of the slipway. So £50 in fuel and another £180 for a new prop. I now know why boat stands for Bring Out Another Thousand.....

Due to the way they are bolted in, it isn't really feasible to enlarge the mounting holes to allow you to adjust the position of the sensor to get the readings to match. You might be able to do it by bending the arm until it matches with the one on the other side?

Having searched the ETM in RAVE, it doesn't appear to even mention the oil cooler fan on the diesel. I would suspect it is simply turned on by the temperature switch on the side of the cooler so will have a power feed, the switch and the fan with nothing else involved. Where it gets it's power and earth from is anyone's guess. I know people have had trouble finding the part number for the switch though as even the parts listing seems to ignore it.