If you have slack in the linkage, the only thing you can do is replace it, there isn't any adjustment. You shouldn't be able to push it up when it is closed unless the screws attaching the glass to the mechanism are loose. Slide the covers off either side and check the screws.

That is my only complaint (other than the crackle when trying to use line in), no instructions. Step daughter asked me how she saves a clip from the dashcam and I have no idea. I have a dedicated dashcam with a red button that marks the current clip so it doesn't get over written and I would assume it has something similar but no idea how to do it. The same with displaying a split screen. At one point it was showing the sat nav map and the title of the music she was streaming, but how we got it into that state we couldn't work out.

If you can get the old ones off to fit the new ones. The adjuster on the drag link and, to a slightly lesser degree, the track rod, usually requires lots of heat, a pair of Stilsons and a very long bar to put on the end.

Island 4x4 or LRDirect. Go for Moog (decent quality aftermarket), Lemforder or anything marked as OEM, which will be Lemforder.

After Nigel showed me his unit last week, I immediately ordered one to go in my step-daughter's Toyota Aygo. I'd promised her something like that when she passed her driving test, which she did on Wednesday, so I installed it. It was £59 with the money off voucher when I got it earlier this week. As well as being able to connect by Bluetooth and FM transmitter, it also has a line out to go into an Aux in socket of your existing stereo has one (which the Aygo does) so I used that. Unfortunately there was a continuous crackle on the audio sounding like the old mobile phone interference you sometimes used to get if a phone was too close to an audio device. I tried a better quality cable than the one supplied but that made no difference so resorted to using the inbuilt FM transmitter. Running Waze on her iPhone and it works perfectly as well as streaming music. Dashcam works well too and it even came with a 56Gb microSD card. Haven't yet tried it for hands free calls or installed the (included) reversing camera but everything else simply does what it says it does.

Don't you have the 'Contact the seller' option? Where are you? I assumed UK. I know there's a setting in eBay for where someone is able to send to overseas (when it is an actual item rather than a service) maybe that has changed recently and he hasn't updated his listing. I know he's done numerous ones for owners in the US and even for one owner in Japan in the past.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404025564146, he replaces the switches on the circuit board and fully checks them before sending them back. You get a shiny new case too. As you have two keys, then it isn't a problem to do one at a time.

The flashing red light on the fob when you put the key in the ignition, is caused by the coil around the ignition lock causing the fob to transmit an unlock code. However, the coil is very fragile and often breaks. In which case you need to manually sync the fobs.

With all doors and tailgate closed, put the key in the lock on the drivers door and turn it to lock, hold there and while holding it there, press and hold the lock button on the fob until the red LED flashes faster. Release the button on the fob and turn the key back to centre. Then turn to unlock, hold there, press and hold the unlock button on the fob, etc. Fob should then be synced and you can then do the same for the other one.

I've never had a problem with them shearing off, although sometimes the stud unscrews from the manifold rather than the nut coming off the stud. Douse the nut and the end of the stud (at the top of the manifold flange) with Plus Gas first and you shouldn't have a problem. If you want to replace the studs, they are standard M10.

nigelbb wrote:

What is the URL? A copy of his old website should still be accessible on the Wayback Machine just like you can access all the useful guides on rr.net that were deleted by the owners https://web.archive.org

www.p38webshop.co.uk

Afraid I've no idea what the fault or fix is, but a logged error of one sensor short to another is the symptom.

Unfortunately Marty managed to crash his own website and hasn't got around to writing a replacement yet but his old one did detail the problem.

The ABS system does two self checks, the first when you initially turn the ignition on when it checks for the correct resistance on each wheel sensor, the second once you start moving when it checks for the same speed from each sensor. If it comes on when starting the engine and not with the ignition, that would suggest the battery voltage is dropping during cranking. Although that usually brings on a Gearbox Fault not ABS Fault.

I remember Marty saying something about ECU faults on the Wabco D system as he was offering a repair service on them. I assume you've done the C to D upgrade as a pre-99 car would have originally have had the Wabco C system with 2 wheel TC rather than the D with 4 wheel TC.

Nicely done. Just what I would expect a P38 on EAS to be capable of doing with a driver that knows what he is doing. Post that video on .net to show some on there that you don't need huge wheels, a 4" lift and coil springs

I had a problem where the cable had slipped so was moving the latch but not quite far enough. I was able to get a length of 5mm steel rod up from underneath onto the cone that was poking through and while someone else heaved on the release, I tapped the rod up with a hammer.

4.5k in 4 months? I'm going to have to keep an eye on my record. I took mine in for MoT at the end of August and noticed I'd only done 22k since the previous test. Previous years had been over 30k......

The switch is under the RH latch, so if that one is releasing, it will show as open even if the LH latch is still closed and the bonnet won't open. Sounds like your LH latch isn't releasing.

Nice one, how long did it take you to get round the Antwerp ring road? It usually takes at least an hour longer than Google maps says it will. Otherwise, Belgium has a lot going for it despite what people say, good beer, good chocolate and cheap LPG.....

Yes, 5W T5 capless.

Bolt wrote:

Just gotta wonder, what would Toad Hall have to say???!

Good point, he would have been apoplectic! They didn't like the fact that some of my posts were a little, shall we say, blunt (on one of my appraisements at work years ago the comment "does not suffer fools gladly" was added).

You also need to use the BeCM to supply power to the LS ECU and signals to all of the instruments.

They are like that. When I bought mine I was aware of the two obvious problems, running on 7 due to one head gasket blowing into the Vee and sitting on the bumpstops due to a burst rear air spring. Got those sorted in the first 3 or 4 days and then started using it ad found all of the other things that didn't do what they should have done. It was 18 months before I got it where everything worked and I felt I could trust it.