From that printout, he's cocked up fitting the sensors as well as setting it to incorrect settings. It is showing a figure for both castor and toe on the rear but you have a live axle so both can only ever be zero. The computer says that the toe on the front should be -0 degrees 10 minutes to 0 degrees (straight ahead). The minus signifies toe in but it should actually be, from the workshop manual, 0 degrees 5 minutes to 0 degrees 15 minutes toe OUT. So he's set it with too much toe in which means you will wear the outside edge of the tyres. The fact that before adjustment it was showing a different figure for toe side to side also shows the sensors weren't correctly fitted. On a car with rack and pinion steering with an adjuster on each side, it is possible for it to be different side to side. With a steering box such as we have, they will always both be the same if the wheels are pointing straight ahead.

You can ignore the caster and camber angles. Caster will change with the suspension height and the state of your radius arm bushes while camber is fixed but will change as your top and bottom axle ball joints start to wear and develop a bit of slack.

As you can only adjust on one side, you may find that if the toe is adjusted so it is correct, the steering wheel may well become straight or at least straighter. Rather than go back to the mechanic with the correct figures (print the page from RAVE, it's page 15 of General Specification Data) and tell him he is an idiot (and the data on his computer is incorrect), you may as well adjust it yourself. The adjuster is on the rod behind the front wheels that connects the two hubs together. To increase the toe out, you need to shorten the rod at the adjuster which is on the RH end of the tie rod. Slacken off the lock bolts (one needs a 13mm socket and spanner while the other is 17mm) and give it one full turn to shorten it. That will get it from where it is to within the limits it should be at. One end of the adjuster has a left hand thread while the other is a right hand thread so turning the adjuster sleeve one way shortens it, the other way lengthens it. If a full turn is too much and you now have too much toe out, the steering will be reluctant to self centre when coming off a corner, so back it off by half a turn.

Think about it. You have a rod from the steering box to the LH wheel. If the LH wheel is pointing straight ahead but you have too much toe in, the RH wheel won't be pointing straight ahead but will be pointing to the left. Consequently, you will need to turn to the right to keep the car going straight ahead. This may be all it is that is causing the steering wheel to not be centred when travelling straight ahead.

Once the toe is correct, or at least a lot closer to how it currently is, see what the steering wheel position is now. If it is now straight, you don't need to do any more. If it isn't, look at the collar on the input shaft to the steering box (where the lower column connects to it). There is a pointer on it which should be pointing at a similar mark cast into the steering box (you may need to use a mirror to see it). If they line up, then the steering box is centered and the steering wheel will need to be moved on its splines. If the marks don't line up you need to adjust at the drag link on the front rod next to the Pitman Arm (the output lever on the steering box). This is a similar adjuster to that on the tie rod but it may well be seized and will need a bit of brute force to get it to move. If you do it with the key in the ignition so the steering lock is off and the wheels on the ground, the steering wheel and the input shaft will turn as you adjust it. Get it so the marks line up and the steering wheel should, hopefully, also be straight. If it isn't, then again the steering wheel will need to be moved on the splines to get it right.

The whole process is in RAVE, with pictures, but it assumes you are familiar with how the system works so isn't immediately clear.

So he's only done half the job. He's adjusted the wheel alignment, whether it is right or not is another matter (did he give you a printed sheet showing before and after?), but not done the second part of the job which is aligning the steering box and steering wheel. It isn't so much the steering wheel that needs centralising but the steering box. If it isn't, the power steering will try to centre the box which may or may not coincide with the wheels being straight ahead so it will pull to one side if you take your hands off the wheel. Once the steering box is correctly aligned, if the steering wheel isn't centred, that needs moving on the splines so it is.

As I said in your other thread, wheel alignment affects what direction the wheels are pointing in, not whether the steering wheel is straight or not, that is done by adjusting the drag ink. Taking the steering wheel off isn't going to show you anything either.

The tie rod at the rear of the wheels, the one that runs across the car connecting both wheels together, is adjusted to get the alignment correct so the wheels are pointing in the right direction (correct is 0.6-1.8mm toe out although better to aim for the lower of the two figures). Then you drive the car and set the steering so the car is travelling in a straight line but ignoring the position of the steering wheel. Check the marker on the input shaft on the steering box to see if it lines up with the mark on the steering box itself. If it does then the steering wheel will need moving on the splines so it is straight. Chances are it won't line up so in that case you need to adjust at the drag link adjuster next to the steering box. Once you manage to unseize the adjuster (Plus Gas, followed by heat and a pair of Stilsons), with the wheels on the ground and steering lock off, as you turn the adjuster the steering wheel will turn along with the centralising mark on the steering box.

Not sure what the picture is showing other than a tyre? There's two stages to the alignment, the toe in/toe out is adjusted with the tie rod behind the front wheels but the centralisation of the steering is done at the drag link at the front (between the steering box Pitman arm and the LH front hub) in combination with the centering marks on the steering box input shaft. The two adjustments are independent of each other. If the alignment was done using the 4 wheel alignment system with a laser and computer, chances are it will be wrong.

The prop may be a simple bolt on job as long as it is phased correctly. The original one had a spline missing on the sliding joint so it would only go together with the UJs correctly phased. Some aftermarket ones didn't have this so could be assembled any way so could be wrong. If you have the version of RAVE that includes the Classic, that has a picture of the correct phasing.

I wouldn't touch Arnotts with a bargepole, Dunlops only for me and never had one fail. There seems to be a view that anything with Made in USA on it is going to be superior to anything else. My experience with parts on my, American built, boat is I'd rather see Made in China over Made in USA.....

The nut, or the thread on the bolt has probably been damaged when the broken UJ flew out from under the car. Last resort would be to use an angle grinder and cut it off but that would then mean you will have to take the output flange off the transfer case to replace the bolt.

The viscous coupling is a sealed unit filled with a silicone gel so you won't get any noise from it. Driving with one propshaft missing is a sure fire way of causing it to seize even if it wasn't already (which it almost certainly was). It connects the front and rear propshafts so you need to stop the rear from moving, either with the handbrake or with the gearbox in Park and the rear wheels on the ground. Then you try to move the front, usually by lifting one front wheel and seeing how much torque and over how long, you can move it. But that does assume you have a front propshaft connected. As you don't, you will need to do it with a socket and breaker bar on the nut in the centre of the flange the propshaft fits to.

Does the nut turn? If you are holding it at the back it should just undo.

But without a front propshaft, that won't prove anything. The VC is between the front and rear outputs on the transfer case.

Yeah, I don't like bottle jacks for that reason. I've got a big 12 ton one that is intended for trucks but the contact point isn't very big and it isn't that wide so can easily tip over. I tend to only use it for supporting things while I'm bolting them on rather than lifting. It's a bit like the one that LR supply for changing a wheel. We used to have a Disco 2 at work and got a flat rear tyre one day while out in it. Only to find that the supplied bottle jack, even when fully retracted is too tall to fit under the axle when there's no air in the tyre. Had to drive it on the flat until we could get the flat tyre up onto a kerb meaning the jack was in the gutter and would fit under the axle. Then once it was jacked up high enough to fit a tyre that did have air in it, it was wobbling quite nicely.....

My EAS has only ever dropped when I had a duff height sensor and I was driving it at the time. With the car not running and a door open, it isn't going to try to self level so would only drop if it had a leak. I can put it on High and leave it for as long as I ever leave the car and it doesn't drop at all so I know there's no leaks.

Clive603 wrote:

Easy if standing under a car right up on a lift. Trickier on your back with about 6" nose to chassis clearance! But we got there.

I'm the opposite, I prefer to work laying under the car. Normally I do all the work under the car simply by putting the EAS on High and leaving a door or the tailgate open. I've got ramps but the only time I've used them was when changing my gearbox (with the front wheels on the ramps and the rear on axle stands). When I was taking my transfer case off to replace the chain, bearings and seals, I managed to blag the use of a 4 post lift but found that it was either too high so I was on tiptoes or too low so I was having to stoop. In fact, when we were putting it back on after the rebuild we lowered the lift right down so the car was just a little higher than it would have been with the suspension on high.

What caused an issue with the lambda sensor plug? Not sure is your car is a GEMS or Thor but on a GEMS the plug is clipped to a bracket on the side of the sump so you only need one hand to connect it. Maybe with your higher ramps it was too high (or not high enough) to make it awkward.

v8vroom wrote:

In the meantime, I’ll test if the VC has seized (jacking up one side and turning the wheel).

But without a front propshaft you have nothing connecting the wheel to the VC????

The tool covers both the nuts and bolts, they are both 9/16th AF and will undo the fixings at the diff and transfer case ends. Either 1/2" or 3/8" drive depending on what size ratchet you have in your socket set.

You do need a complete propshaft. Your pictures show the UJ has broken off but none of them show the section that goes between the UJ and the sliding joint in the propshaft itself.

The first time mine decided it wasn't going to pull the clutch in, I measured the voltage at the compressor and found around 7V. This would only come on briefly as insufficient current was being drawn so the HEVAC disconnects the feed and doesn't try to engage it again. I cobbled together a few bits of wire and a relay to supply a full 12V to the compressor but that didn't work as the relay didn't draw sufficient current so I had the same problem, hence the reason why the TSB adds the resistor to increase the currant draw. My problem turned out to be corrosion in the 18 way connector behind the RH kick panel, 12V in but only 7V out. At that time, I simply put a link wire in place of the connector but cut it out and replaced the whole connector later. I've had no further problems and haven't seen the need to do the mod in the TSB. With the kickpanel connector cut out and a squirt of contact cleaner in the one under the reservoir and at the pressure switch, there's never been a problem. The same goes for the red 4.0SE I bought last year, checked the kickpanel connector for corrosion and gave all connectors a squirt of contact cleaner and it just works.

The other thing that can cause intermittent operation of the clutch, is the air gap on the clutch being too wide. If this is the case what usually happens it will operate fine when ambient is low but fails to kick in when it gets hotter (just when you need it). The air gap on mine was over 40 thou and it worked fine until the ambient got up to 23C, just when you start to need it. Spec says it should be between 16 and 31 thou but the smaller the better. It can be adjusted by taking a spacer out from behind the clutch front.

14mm doesn't fit well as they aren't metric, they are 9/16th AF.

You don't use a socket to change a UJ, unless you want one to press the end cap in with it in your bench vice. In that case you just need one that fits.

The bolts on the flange can't turn as a flat on the head bears against the side of the output flange. Same at the other end, you only need access to the visible bolt head or nut, not both ends.

Yes to the grant means that the HEVAC is trying to engage the clutch but with only 700 grams of R134a in there, the pressure switch will be open circuit so the clutch won't engage. It really does need a full charge, that is why you have nothing at pin 86 and when you force it in with the jumper you are only getting coldish air from the vents.

While on the subject of AC, I filled a diesel P38 yesterday which only takes 1100 grams. The owner has had the car for almost 10 years and never had working AC but was complaining that his kids weren't happy being driven around in a mobile greenhouse over the summer. I pressure tested it for him and the condenser was leaking. He replaced that and I put 10 bar of Nitrogen into it and unplugged the compressor so it didn't try and engage. 3 weeks later it still had 10 bar of Nitrogen, so we declared it good. With a full charge of refrigerant, the Nano reported an evaporator temperature of 4-6 C but air from the vents was reading around 10C. Another good reason for fixing the leaks in the ducting..... But of course now he has another problem, condensate pouring into the passenger footwell.

Yes, propshaft is simple enough, 4 bolts at each end. VC is fairly easily doable too. A bit tight with the crossmember in place and the hardest part is breaking the seal from the RTV. Easiest way, rather than trying to prise it off, is to knock it round so you twist it free.

If you get a propshaft it will come complete with the universal joints and flanges at each end. To put that amount of stress on it, I would suspect the viscous coupling in the transfer case is seized. That lives under the round cover on the front of the transfer case, where the front propshaft bolts on. Did the front tyres seems to skip across the road if you pulled away with the steering in full lock? That is a sure sign the VC is seized. In fact, if the VC is seized that is probably what caused the wear on the front tyres.

I don't know too much about the diesel, I steer well clear of them, but it was my understanding that a stretched cam chain was the usual cause of hot starting problems? This could be cured, for a time anyway, by rotating the injector pump to adjust the timing.

Not NLA or the Land Rover Classic site would show as NLA but it doesn't, it shows as not available to order online (https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/alr6939-seal-assembly-a-post-header.html), not cheap though. The JLR site has been showing lots of things not available recently, probably as a result of the system hack they suffered. They don't want people ordering stuff if their computer system won't tell them where in the warehouse to find it!