Looks a very nice job to me. In theory the only weak point now would be the electrical connections as there's no physical pot and wiper to wear. What is that you've used to secure it to the trailing arm?
You've got 3 wires to the inertia switch, a White/Orange Which supplies the power to it from the fuel pump relay, a White/Blue which sends that power to the fuel pump when the inertia switch isn't tripped, but when it trips that White/Blue is connected to the White/Purple which goes to the BeCM to tell it that the switch has tripped. As the BeCM will see a ground via the pump, it is that ground that it is looking for. That suggests that there is a wiring fault (or an internal fault in the inertia switch) so there is a ground on the White/Purple wire. There's no connections between the two, just a wire that goes directly to pin 2 of C1289 at the BeCM. This is a green 20 way connector on the front of the BeCM, 2nd one in from the left on the lower row.
Have a look at the pictures in this thread https://rangerovers.pub/topic/3864-no-blower-air-to-windscreen, unlike the temperature blend motors which only move one flap, the distribution motor is moving 3 so there's more bits that need lubrication.
It sounds like the grease on the pivots is starting to get a bit sticky. So it fails on initial start up when everything is cold but moves freely enough once the heater box has warmed up. I've found silicone oil to be the best for both softening the old grease and lubricating everything.
You should have the sensors in the pre-cat (as in, nearer the engine) holes and bungs in the post cat holes. Bungs with the right thread are often sold as replacement sump plugs.
The O2 sensors come with the sealing washers, much like the washers on spark plugs.
Dropping the crossmember isn't as bad as it looks. You'll need a jack to support the rear of the gearbox, a crowbar to get the crossmember out from between the chassis rails and a club hammer (and another jack) to put it back.
My boat is very slightly Range Rover related as I tow it behind mine. In fact, when launching and recovering it back onto the trailer, I back down the slipway until I can hear the exhaust bubbling because the ends are under water.
This was last Tuesday when I took it out with my stepdaughter and my boating mate Phil (aka Holland and Holland). He shot a brief video to send to my other half who was slaving away in the office at work while we were out in the sunshine having fun.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HelWU9AACzw
Unfortunately it didn't all go quite as planned. After one run along the river we were sitting next to the slipway and decided to have one more run, only to catch the prop on the concrete edge of the slipway. So £50 in fuel and another £180 for a new prop. I now know why boat stands for Bring Out Another Thousand.....
Due to the way they are bolted in, it isn't really feasible to enlarge the mounting holes to allow you to adjust the position of the sensor to get the readings to match. You might be able to do it by bending the arm until it matches with the one on the other side?
Having searched the ETM in RAVE, it doesn't appear to even mention the oil cooler fan on the diesel. I would suspect it is simply turned on by the temperature switch on the side of the cooler so will have a power feed, the switch and the fan with nothing else involved. Where it gets it's power and earth from is anyone's guess. I know people have had trouble finding the part number for the switch though as even the parts listing seems to ignore it.
If it is really humid and the drains are partially blocked, the condensation can't drain fast enough and it will flow into the intake trunking. Then there is a convenient join in the duct for it to dribble out of. Sealing that is a good idea too while you are in there. I cleared my drains with a spare length of 6mm EAS pipe but the spiral curtain wire should do the same job nicely.
I found on mine that the drain tubes weren't a nice tight fit onto the spigots so when it was really humid it was coming out faster than it could get out of the tubes so would drip. It's a fiddly job, but see if you can get a tie wrap around it and pull it tight. I used a pair of long nosed pliers to get it into place and pull the tie wrap tight. I've had no further reports of wet feet since.
Yes that's right. If you look at how the gears are meshed with the new pot in place, it can ride up and become disconnected from the pot so the gear turns but it isn't turning the pot. So a couple of thin plastic washers stop it from riding up.
He'll be OK until the RH blend motor sticks on full heat......
When mine first failed, years ago not long after I'd got the car, it failed on full cold. In mid winter, while driving through a blizzard in France. Ended up driving while sitting in a sleeping bag until I got to some services, bought a roll of duct tape and taped over all the driver's side vents.
Either way, it will at least tell you if the fault is in the HEVAC if it still happens on his HEVAC. You won't damage yours by putting it in a poverty spec car, it will just flag an error if you try switching on the heated screen or seats as it won't detect any current being drawn.
Can you whip the HEVAC out of yours and see if you still get the same fault? The only time I've known one die was when 12V was put on the motor connector while it was still plugged into the HEVAC, that blows the driver chip. But in that case it won't move.
Yes, the arrows line up as they should with those pots. The dead spot will be what is causing it to fail the self test.
The ones I use are from Mouser Electronics, Mouser part number 531-PT15GV02103A22ES (https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Amphenol-Piher/PT15GV02-103A2020-E-S?qs=DPoM0jnrROVsaSbOUHWyTQ%3D%3D). One problem I found and it may be that you have the same, is that they are not quite as tall as the original ones, so it is possible for the gear to ride up the spindle so it no longer meshes. My solution for this is to put a couple of small plastic washers (from some bits left over from assembling a desktop computer for my step-daughter) on the spindle so it can't rise up and become disconnected.
The feedback pot isn't sending a reading to the HEVAC. When you force it to move from one setting to another using the Nanocom, you should see the percentage change as it moves. If it isn't, then the HEVAC doesn't know what position it is in so flags the error and doesn't try to move it again. The Nanocom error isn't really of much help, but it does at least tell you which motor is causing the error and you can then confirm by doing as you have and looking for a change from the feedback. On initial switch on, the HEVAC drives the blend motors over their range to check for correct feedback. If it doesn't see a change it stops at one end of the travel or the other. Sods law says it will stop at full heat in summer and full cold in winter. You can sometimes get it working again by giving it a squirt of switch cleaner and working it back and forth a few times. If you take the gear off to work the pot, make sure when you put it back the arrows line up.
https://rangerovers.pub/topic/898-calibrated-speedos?page=1#pid27063
Occasional number plate light being out may just be a poor connection in the bulbholder. When checking lights and finding one not working, a thump on the tailgate will often bring it back on. If it doesn't, it's new bulb time.
Trailer light blinking will be when the BeCM has detected more current being drawn than the one 21W rear indicator bulb would draw so it thinks there's another one on a trailer. Bad earth at the rear light cluster maybe?
I hope you told him that the Thor doesn't play nicely with aftermarket MAFs, it needs to be a genuine Bosch one.
Don't forget that with it disconnected it will run a default fail safe fuelling map, whereas with it running from a duff one, it will fuel to suit the incorrect readings from the MAF. Did you check the live readings? MAF output should be 17-23 kg/hr at idle and 57-63 at 2,500 rpm.
Left hand pins seized. Think about how it works, the inner pad is pushed in by the piston and the outer pad is pushed in by the calliper sliding towards the inside of the car. If it can't slide, the piston releases the inner pad but the calliper doesn't slide so the outer pad is permanently binding.