Yup, thinner spanner (or attack the one you have with a grinder).

The NNN100660 should be a straight swap for your NNN100600 which is the one used with SAI, you'll just need to copy over the code as detailed earlier. I suspect they are all very much the same just with different firmware depending on whether you have SAI or not. No mention of a different one for auto or manual but if they were different, you'd be hard pressed to find one for a manual, a V8, particularly a late model, with a manual gearbox is a bit into hens teeth territory.

I've actually got a NNN100660 that was bought to try to see if it cured a problem on another car that is from a 1999, 4.6, automatic and is a known good one. If you don't find one, drop me a PM as both my cars are GEMS.

I'd only put a link in as a get me home measure, I once drove through a blizzard at night sitting inside a sleeping bag due to a failed driver's side blend motor, not a lot of fun.

Genuine O rings are cheap (about 3 quid each last time I bought some) and changing them isn't the arduous task that many seem to make out it is. As you say, no point in complaining about it, just get on and do it. You'll have less coolant soaked into the carpet to deal with too.

Draught excluding door foam strips from B&Q. It comes on a roll and has sticky stuff on one side and a foam on the other, much the same as what was in there originally.

Yes, if it will go to the floor without pressure in the system, that would suggest air in the manual hydraulic circuit. Looks like you're going to be bleeding it again....

It may just be that your new modulator isn't as gummed up and partially seized as the old one and now you have a pedal that feels as it should have done all along.

RPi did buy a load from Marty so it will be a good one.

I doubt it would make a difference who has owned it, although it is believed it was owned at one time by Brad Pitt who gave it to Jennifer Aniston. They only built 6 Linley's and only 1 in LHD, the one spoken about here Of the other 5, one was stolen and disappeared and the others are all accounted for. See https://howmanymade.co.uk/2016/10/31/range-rover-linley/

When Marty started to offer these he had them made to his precise specifications by a supplier in China. Unfortunately the minimum order quantity was in the thousands but he went ahead anyway and sold batches of them to other resellers as well as selling them direct from his own website. I suspect all of those being advertised on eBay at the moment are from his batch whereas earlier ones may well be ones intended for something else that were close enough to fit but may not work perfectly.

My mate Danny followed Marty's instructions and fitted one which worked perfectly first time even though he does seem to have 10 thumbs. So if he can do it, anyone should be able to......

Knowing the prices some have paid for what I would only describe as 'very nice but not perfect' examples, your one of a kind should fetch 6 figures easily.

Is the pump running when the ignition is turned on? Insufficient brake pressure is the most common cause of Traction Failure.

Years ago all cars had a tap that was operated by the hot, cold or somewhere in between knob or slider which simply regulated (not very well in most cases) the flow of coolant through the heater matrix. For the last 20 years or more, nearly all cars use a full flow system where the temperature is regulated by altering the amount of air that goes either through or around the matrix. That way blend motors can be used to constantly adjust the temperature electronically. In my fleet, as well as the P38s, I've got an early 80's car that uses the tap method and that is pathetic as you can never shut the flow off completely so no matter how hot the weather is so it is windows and sunroof open all the time. Then I've got one from the early 90's that uses a sort of half and half where it has a tap but adjusted by a little electric motor with feedback to tell the controller what position it thinks it is in (mostly, but it is Italian and we all joke about Joe Lucas the Prince of Darkness but I think he was taught everything he knows by the Italians....).

The only way to stop it circulating is to link the two pipes that come from the engine to the heater matrix pipes at the bulkhead so nothing flows through the heater.

Did Gearbox Fault appear immediately the car was started? Did the starter struggle to spin it over? If battery voltage drops below 10V at any time, especially during cranking, it will bring up the gearbox fault message and put the gearbox into limp mode. Limp mode will only use third gear if the fault is detected while stationary or only 4th if detected when moving. This is almost certainly connected with the misfire which is likely to be caused by the crack sensor. If it is to be replaced, ensure a genuine Bosch is fitted and not aftermarket.

Earlier GEMS used two separate temperature sensors, one to drive the dashboard gauge and another to report to the engine ECU. It is the latter one that OBD will show. The Thor uses a single sensor that is actually two in the one body to carry out the same functions as the two separate ones in a GEMS. For some odd reason a bad earth will cause a high reading and not low as you would expect.

It shouldn't make a difference if the heater is on, it is a full flow system so the coolant will be flowing through it whether on or not.

It will still leak but not as much as when it is being run as the coolant won't be under pressure. Get a bit of kitchen foil and make yourself something for it to drip onto rather than the carpet.

Last weekend I had a bit of preventative maintenance to do and an annoying, to me anyway, slight leak from the front diff pinion seal. This was a reconned diff not that long ago so shouldn't have been leaking but the oil was being thrown around by the dust cover so dripping off the harmonic balance weight and anti roll bar drop link. Bought a new seal and flange kit and fitting went far smoother than I expected. Also gave me the chance to properly check the front propshaft UJs and give them a squirt from the grease gun while they were off.

Then went to the gearbox. When we fitted the 4HP24 last year, and 40,000 miles ago, at one point we put the trolley jack under the sump so it had gone a bit concave and had also start to leak slightly. So dropped the sump off, which involved having to lift it slightly to get enough clearance for it to come out, a couple of blocks of wood and a big hammer returned it to the original shape and it went back on with a new gasket. Just about to declare that job finished and noticed the side of the gearbox was damp above the sump gasket line. Seems we hadn't done the banjo bolt on the breather tube tight enough and there was a slight leak from there too. In fact, the gearbox sump gasket looked fine so it may well have been that all along, but at least I now no longer have a concave gearbox sump.

Finished, or so I thought, and went to start the car. Dash lit up dimly and no chance of the starter turning the engine over. Battery down to about 8 volts. Now the car had been sitting there with the tailgate and a couple of doors open so the interior lights had been on but they will time out after 10 minutes so shouldn't flatten the battery. Very odd but put my charger on it and went for a coffee. Normally my charger will bring a battery back to life in a matter of minutes but turned the ignition on and it still wasn't happy. Got the expected Gearbox Fault, EAS Fault and one I've never seen before, Electrical Fault. Got the clamp on ammeter out and found 6A from the charger to the battery but also found 2.6A from battery to alternator. Disconnected the alternator and let the battery take the full charge. Off with the alternator and it seems one of the rectifiers has gone short circuit. As I needed to use the car the next day, I did something that I wouldn't normally do and whipped the alternator off the Ascot and fitted that. So, new alternator needed.

Island 4x4 would do me a Britpart, almost certainly recon, for £84.99 or a brand new Hella for £126.99, so the Hella was ordered. Both come with a 2 year warranty but I suspect the Britpart warranty assumes you are only going to be doing 5,000 miles a year...... That arrived in a couple of days so was fitted and the Ascot given its alternator back so I've got two fully functioning P38s again (even if the Ascot is only used very intermittently, I like to keep it ready and available should I need it). Just need to drop the original one in to my local auto electricians for a new diode pack and I'll have a spare for when I, or someone else, needs one urgently.

If you are going to use a USB to serial adapter, make sure it is one with the FTDI chipset and not any other Chinese version. The cheap ones have all sorts of problems connecting and keeping the connection. I've got all my serial stuff on an ancient Panasonic Toughbook, which has a 9 pin serial connection, running Windows 2000. Never had a problem connection to anything with that.

I bought a Euro Car parts own brand (Klarius) one that lasted far better than the previous Britpart. Wasn't a lot in it in price either if you buy it when they have one of their offers on.

Not just Ireland, if you pick the wrong MoT test centre here, you can run into problems.