I've always used Mahle (OC261) from my local motor factors at around the same price as the genuine ones.

Belt it with a mallet from underneath while your tame assistant turns the key. That should be enough to jolt it free, otherwise you will need to take it off to free it.

We both got it wrong. Yes, the number I gave you is for a RH latch for a LHD car, but the one you have FQJ103220 is up to VIN XA428521, a 99 model. You need FQJ103260 which is listed as RH, RHD car from VIN XA428522 (see https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/part/id/9.55820.56288.60756/brand/land-rover/).

If you have the DSP system and the original amp died, some people have been known to fit an amp from a Discovery instead. It works but only on the front speakers and not the rear. The P38 system only has two feeds, left and right, to the DSP amp and the front/rear fade is dealt with in the amp itself. When substituting Marty's DSP modification, it is necessary to run the rear left and right feeds from the head unit to the amp.

The 1 shows it to be a 2001 model, A shows it built at Solihull and 452327 is the individual serial number for the car. You will see parts listed as for cars after YA430702 which shows 2000 model (Y) and serial number 430702, so that is the one you want, part number FQJ103280. Model year was shown by a letter up to 2000 but then changed to numbers from 2001 onwards. When they ran out of numbers for model year, they went back to letters.

This is how the Land Rover VIN is decoded:

Geographical Region (1st Character)
S Europe

Country (2nd Character)
A United Kingdom

Manufacturer (3rd Character)
L Land Rover

Model Type (4th and 5th Characters)
LB Series III
LD Ninety, One Ten, 127, Defender
LH Range Rover Classic
LJ Discovery
LM Range Rover L322
LN Freelander
LP Range Rover P38
LT Discovery Series II

Wheelbase (6th Character)
A Series III 88″, Defender 90″ extra heavy duty, Range Rover Classic 100″, Range Rover (38A) 108″, Freelander
B Series III 88″ Lightweight, Defender 110″ extra heavy duty, Range Rover Classic LSE 108″, Freelander Commercial
C Series III 109″, Defender 130″ extra heavy duty
D Series III 109″
G 100″ (Discovery)
H 110″ (L/R)
K 130″ (L/R)
M Special Build
R 110″ (24 volt)
S 90″ (24 volt)
V 90″ (L/R)

Body Style (7th Character)
A Basic, Soft Top, Pickup, Hardtop Van Commercial, Freelander 3 Door Commercial, Discovery 3 or 5 Door
B Series III 88" Station Wagon, Defender 3door Station Wagon, Range Rover Classic 2 door, Discovery 3 door, Freelander 5 Door
F Defender 4 door Crew cab non Hi-capacity
H High Capacity Pick Up with/without crew cab
M Defender 5door Station Wagon, Range Rover Classic 5 door, Range Rover P38 5 door, Discovery 5 door
R Range Rover Moneverdi

Engine Type (8th Character)
A 1.8L, inline 4 cylinder, ‘K’ Series, High Compression Unleaded
B 2.5L, inline 4 cylinder, turbo-diesel, 19J 2.0L, inline 4 cylinder, ‘L’ Series, turbo-diesel
C 2.5L, inline 4 cylinder, diesel,12J 1.8L, inline 4 cylinder, ‘K’ Series, Low Compression Unleaded
D 2.5L, inline 4 cylinder, petrol, 17H 1.8L, inline 4 cylinder, ‘K’ Series, Low Compression Leaded
E 3.5L, V8 carb, petrol, High Compression,2.4L, inline 4 cylinder, VM Diesel, 2.0L, inline 4 cylinder, BMW M47 (Td4), diesel
F 2.5L, inline 4 cylinder, turbo-diesel (200Tdi/300Tdi) non EGR/cat, 11L or 16L, 1.8L, inline 4 cylinder, ‘K’ Series, High Compression Leaded
G 2.25L, inline 4 cylinder, diesel, 2.5L, V6, ‘KV6’ Series, Unleaded
H 2.25L, inline 4 cylinder, petrol, 2.5L, V6, ‘KV6’ Series, Leaded
J 4.6L, V8 Efi, petrol , 2.5L, V6, ‘KV6’ Series, Ethanol
L 3.5L, V8 Efi, petrol
M 3.9 & 4.0L, V8 Efi, petrol
N 2.5L, inline 4 cylinder, VM Diesel
P 2.6L, inline 6 cylinder, IOE petrol
V 3.5L, V8 carb, petrol, Low Compression
W 2.5L, inline 6 cylinder, BMW Diesel
Y 2.0L, inline 4 cylinder Mpi, petrol
1 4.0L, V8Efi, Low Compression with Cat
2 4.0L, V8Efi, High Compression with Cat
3 4.0L, V8Efi, Low Compression without Cat
6 2.5L, inline 4 cylinder, turbo-diesel (200Tdi/300Tdi) EGR/cat
8 2.5L, inline 5 cylinder, turbo-diesel (Td5) EGR
9 2.5L, inline 5 cylinder, turbo-diesel (Td5) EGR without Cat (Disco II), 2.8L, inline 6 cylinder, M52 BMW petrol

Gearbox Type (9th Character)
1 Series III 4 speed / Right Hand Drive, LT95 4 speed / Right Hand Drive, JATCO 5 speed Auto / Right Hand Drive
2 Series III 4 speed / Left Hand Drive, LT95 4 speed / Left Hand Drive, JATCO 5 speed Auto / Left Hand Drive
3 Chrysler 747 3 speed Auto / Right Hand Drive, ZF 4 speed Auto / Right Hand Drive
4 Chrysler 747 3 speed Auto / Left Hand Drive, ZF 4 speed Auto / Left Hand Drive
5 RHD 4 speed gearbox + overdrive
6 LHD 4 speed gearbox + overdrive
7 LT77 5 Speed Manual / Right Hand Drive, LT77S 5 Speed Manual / Right Hand Drive, LT85 5 Speed Manual / Right Hand Drive, R380 5 Speed Manual / Right Hand Drive, PG1 5 speed5 Speed Manual / Right Hand Drive
8 LT77 5 Speed Manual / Left Hand Drive, LT77S 5 Speed Manual / Left Hand Drive, LT85 5 Speed Manual / Left Hand Drive, R380 5 Speed Manual / Left Hand Drive, PG1 5 speed5 Speed Manual / Left Hand Drive

Year of Build (10th Character)
A 2010
B Ser. III CSW or R/R Phase II, or 90/110 face lift to 1987 or M/Y 2011
C R/R 1986 M/Y or 2012
D R/R 1987 M/Y or 2013
E 1988 or 2014
F 1989 or 2015
G 1990 or 2016
H 1991 or 2017
J 1992 or 2018
K 1993
L 1994
M 1995
T 1996
V 1997
W 1998
X 1999
Y 2000
1 2001
2 2002
3 2003
4 2004
5 2005
6 2006
7 2007
8 2008
9 2009

Build Location (11th Character)
A Solihull, United Kingdom
F Worldwide
G South Africa

Unique Serial Number (12th - 17th Characters)

I've got a fusebox in my garage where the fuel pump relay didn't kick in when it should. That was down to a loose terminal in the fusebox so the ground signal from the engine ECU to operate the relay wasn't getting there. So Bolt's theory is right, if the terminal is loose, you've disturbed it by swapping the relay so it is now making contact, but won't do for long......

Although it might just have been a dodgy relay.

That is absolutely correct. The green sensor that drives the dash gauge goes into the threaded hole in the top hose outlet, while the black one that feeds the ECU goes to the right in the coolant passage to the cylinder head. They have a different thread so you can't, or at least shouldn't be able, to get them in the wrong place. Plugs on the loom are also colour coded with the green plug going on the green sensor and the other one (which is brown on my car) going to the other one.

Sounds like it.

A couple of little electrical jobs. Earlier in the week I switched my headlights on, the dash beeped and told me the LH Dip Beam bulb had failed. As it is a legal requirement in Europe I'd got a set of spare bulbs in the boot, so fitted a new . Two days later I switched the headlights on, the dash beeped and told me the RH Dip Beam bulb had failed. Picked up a pair of Osram Nightbreaker Ultimate 200 bulbs so fitted both of those and put the spare back in its box.

Just occasionally, I'd been getting another beep from the dash, this time it said Key Battery Low but now it was becoming more regular so I picked up a pair of Varta CR2025 batteries to put in it. Now, as we all know, or should know, if the batteries are replaced within 30 seconds it will keep the programming so not need to be re-syned. Yeah right. Dirt around the battery compartment meant it took me the best part of 30 minutes to get the battery compartment out! Old ones out, new ones in and put it back together. Of course by then sync had been well and truly lost so decided this might be a good idea to see if the EKA could be entered with the key rather than cheating and keying it in from the Nanocom. Despite the key not having been used for many months, if not years, EKA went in first time, doors all unlocked, engine started so synced the fob and all back to normal. So my door latch microswitches are good too....

I've got odd days during those dates when I'm committed but would be up for a P38 parts pilfering session most of the time. If you remember I'll quite happily drag things around the yard too.....

That's why I always use Sport mode. In normal Drive when towing uphill your speed will drop but giving it more throttle will cause the gearbox to change down but will then change back up again as soon as you lift off a touch. If you kickdown in Sport it will hang on to the lower gear and give more revs for much longer.

You can get at it from underneath, no need to take anything off, just suspension on high and leave a door open so it doesn't drop on you (or bung an axle stand under it if you are paranoid).

I agree with Aragom, stick with paper. The service schedule says they should be replaced every 24,000 miles so it's not like you'll save anything over a period.

I've got a trade policy and when that came up for renewal, the broker said that my current insurer didn't want to renew it as I had two Range Rovers listed on the policy and they get stolen too frequently. I pointed out that new ones do but mine were 26 and 28 years old and I could probably leave them parked up with the keys in the ignition and still nobody would steal them. He went back to the insurers who agreed to renew on the understanding that they would 'review' the premium if I added any newer Range Rovers....

But, although there has been a lot of publicity about insurance prices going through the roof we had an interesting insurance story a few weeks ago. My other half has a 2007, Mercedes SLK280, 3.0 litre V6, 7 speed Tiptronic gearbox, all the usual toys and rated for 155 mph top speed. She's 55 years old, with over 10 years NCD and no convictions (not even a speeding ticket surprisingly knowing how she drives it). Last year the best quote she could get was with Direct Line at only £163.50 for fully comp, way lower than any other company quoted to the point we even queried it to make sure it was correct. Direct Line will put you on auto-renew unless you tell them otherwise and a few weeks ago, she gets an email thanking her for renewing her insurance. To check the details and download a copy of her up to date certificate, she had to log in to their website so she did to see how much it had gone up by. Result, £163.50, exactly the same as last year. I know they can no longer charge existing customers more than new ones but I'd like to know why hers hasn't gone up at all?

No but as it is listed for the following

Genuine OEM LR078295 - Land Rover Kit (LR078295) part for Freelander 2 2006 - 2014, Range Rover 2010 - 2012, Discovery 4 2010 - 2016, Range Rover Sport 2010 - 2013, Range Rover Evoque 2012 >, Range Rover 2013 >, Range Rover Sport 2014 >, Discovery Sport 2015 >, Discovery 5 2017 >, Range Rover Velar 2017 >, New Range Rover Evoque 2019 >, New Defender 2019 >. Authentic Land Rover Part.

I suspect leaking windscreens isn't something that only affects the odd car.....

It's listed as a sealant pack, and the subsequent picture of it appears to show a couple of tubes of something. Whether it is for installing the screen or for sealing it when it leaks, I've no idea https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/lr078295-adhesive-and-sealer.html

Probably, or at least it will make it a lot easier. There's a thread on the dark side where someone had a similar problem and it appears it was the mastic used when the centre roof panel was welded to the outside edges. His pictures show the windscreen top trim removed see https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/removing-roof-rails-pictures.362212/#post-2441671. He used silicone but really it wants to be a mastic like Tiger Seal or OB1.

How to release the top screen finisher clips is in RAVE, you slide them to one side with an old credit car or similar. You will break at least some of them but they are still available in packs of 5 (https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/dce10038l-clip-retaining.html). One pack should be enough but I think you need something like 8 to replace them all. They are probably used on other cars as when I bought two packs, they came in a pack with Rover markings. In fact I've just checked my drawer of assorted small parts and have an unopened pack of 5.

As the sender doesn't drive the gauge directly but the signal from it is converted to a serial data signal to drive the gauge, it won't move the gauge when you short it. My theory is that the BeCM sees a dead short as a fault so doesn't try to move the gauge but brings on the light as a warning. It might give you a reading if you put a resistor across it but I've no idea what sort of value you would need. Early cars had a sender with just a single wire while later ones have the two wire green sender which I assume you have which is, unfortunately no longer available new so one from a breaker is you only option.

That is missing the sleeve, better to get this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282534660124 as it includes the sleeve which is usually nicely scored. It doesn't include the gaskets but they aren't normally needed anyway. Be careful not to damage the top edge of the piston when you are getting the ring and remains of the old seal out or it can cut through the new seal from underneath so it will only last a few days.