The joint on the transfer case doesn't use a gasket, it uses a layer of RTV so if it didn't leak originally, it won't leak again unless it is disturbed.

I'd say it is coming from the filler plug. Give it a blast with brake cleaner to wash it all off, then take it for a run and have another look. Don't forget that airflow under the car will spread it around too.

Dead easy. All you need to remove is the brake drum, it can even be done with the brake shoes in place. Off with the propshaft and move it to one side, off with the drum, big nut in the centre of the drive flange, drive flange off, seal dust cover off, lever the old seal out and, as they say in all the best books, reassembly is the reverse of the above.

Don't forget, it isn't oil its ATF, one of the slipperyest substances you can find so any of that on your brake shoes and it won't work well. ATF is also good for high temperatures so you wont smell burnt oil as you'll probably never get it hot enough.

That's what I found too. I tried to download the software from the Google Playstore just to have a look and see what it can do, only it isn't there. The site does have a copyright acknowledgement for iPhone, iPad, etc but no mention of Android. Is it iPhone only?

The figures of the number of types of car that catch fire are likely to be skewed by the fact that the EVs are that much newer whereas there are plenty of much older, less well maintained, ICE cars out there. If the percentage of car fires affecting only cars of less than a certain age, the statistics would likely change quite a bit. Ignoring that though, it is the difference in the fire that makes a bigger difference. My local fire service have a policy of automatically sending 2 appliances to an EV fire compared with just one for an ICE car fire. Additionally, an ICE car fire requires only a few hundred gallons of water to contain, or even put out, the fire compared with thousands for an EV fire and, on a more serious fire they will simply order a large skip, fill it with water and drop the EV into it. Even on a less serious one, with the danger of it re-igniting, if it is to be recovered they will follow with a fully crewed appliance until it has been safely unloaded and quarantined. The insurance company will pick up the bill for this too.

I agree diesel is worse than petrol as petrol doesn't burn, it is only the vapour that burns, whereas diesel is excellent for starting bonfires (once ignited with a blowlamp) as it is the liquid that burns, so I agree it will spread. However, as it still needs Oxygen to burn , it can be put out fairly easily with a fire blanket or an extinguisher that stops the air getting to it.

I'm not anti-EV as such just that one wouldn't be a practical proposition for me. Running on LPG I know the concept of range anxiety, the difference being that if the filling station I had intended filling up at has run out, I can always run on petrol instead, something an EV owner can't do. There is definitely a place for them (my sister being the perfect EV owner and her Nissan Leaf is ideal for her to drive to work and go shopping) though.

I would normally do that on any other automatic car on the way to MoT test to clean up the brake linings and drum as they tend to not get used on an auto, people just put it in Park. Particularly the ones used on a lot of German cars which have discs on the back but the parking brake is a small drum in the centre of the disc.

However, I wouldn't do it on a P38 as the parking brake is usually too good. If it's working well it should be possible to lock the rear wheels.

If you have a problem caused by localised RF, you can usually make it work by just holding the fob next to the antenna on the RH rear window. It will need a hell of a strong signal to overcome that.

Yes, I've done the same, had to make up the cable and plug to fit the strange Classic connector and turn the bit rate right down, but it definitely works. Initially I tried to connect just the data lines on the LSE to my Nanocom but that didn't work for some reason.

I thought I'd posted a link but didn't, so here it is https://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/range-rover-p38a/range-rover-p38a-eas-unlock-v3

If you've adjusted it up properly, even if the drum is full of ATF, it'll still hold the car. As long as they test it properly and do both wheels at the same time.....

Pierre3 wrote:

Thanks for the description of the electrical plug shown in the picture. I noticed that mine is only just holding on as the plastic clip, that holds it, is broken on one side. I may have to consider replacing it, but with what I am not sure.

Tie wraps are the usual solution to most broken clips.....

No, OBD scanner only does OBD diagnostics which is engine and, possibly, gearbox. Your cheapest option is the RSWUnlock V4 software which does everything except SRS faults. On a GEMS, any SRS fault needs the ECU to be reset after a fault is cleared so is a pretty important omission.

Have you never heard of crows foot sockets, like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Siegen-S0845-Drive-Flare-Spanner/dp/B003OX85ES/ref=asc_df_B003OX85ES/? A pair of those would get in there no problem, although you would need two ratchets......

The connector is the supply and feedback for the transfer box range change motor, which is on the back of the transfer box alongside the transmission brake drum..

Was the rubber split or cut? One way of breaking into a P38 is to pull the rubber down between the tailgate and bumper and then use a sharp knife blade to put a ground on one wire at a time until you find the one that comes from the door latch (which is why they are all one colour to make it harder to find the correct one). It's also another way of opening the tailgate if the door latch is faulty. That would put a break in the insulation so weaken the wires and allow the conductors to corrode.

Yes, tailgate is linked from the RH front door latch, irrespective of what side the driver sits on. Power comes from F15 which powers lots of other things so you'd know if that had blown. Power travels on a Purple wire into a connector behind the trim on the RH side of the boot. From there all wires are white (a security thing) so it is easy to find the right one, wires on one side are different colours and all are white on the other side. In the same connector you have a Green/Red wire which goes back to the RH door latch and should have a ground on it when the RH front door is unlocked. Power goes to the tailgate latch, through that to the pushbutton and the other side of the pushbutton goes to the ground wire. So when you push the button in, power goes through the latch (to release it) via the button to ground from the door latch.

If you can get the lower tailgate carpet trim off, you can test at both the latch and the switch.

There will be backlash in the transfer case chain and in the rear diff, so you will be able to rotate the drum enough to see if it is binding or not. You don't back it off just enough to let it turn (unless you like the smell of burning brake linings and a red hot glow from under the car), you follow RAVE. Tighten it to the specified torque and then back it off 1.5 turns. If you have free play in the lever, then adjust the cable to take the slack out of that.

A proper P38 has 4 bolts on the propshaft but I believe the diesel only has 3 and a rubber donut thing. You're the one that is under it, I don't think I've ever been under a diesel! The separate picture in the left corner of this pic https://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/87921/88144/6934/88159.bolts are M12 x 65 according to that.

Stainless would only be marginally stronger than tie-wraps, you need to use high tensile bolts so they don't just shear off the first time you put your foot down. I went for Allen headed, but in the same size, 3/8UNF, with a washer under the bolt head, so I can use a long hex key without the UJ yokes getting in the way.

The bolts for the flanges are 3/8UNF thread and 30mm (1 1/8") long, the bolts for the guard are M8x25 as the picture Harv linked to shows. I replaced my propshaft flange bolts with Allen headed ones to make undoing them a lot easier. Just took one out, measured it and went to my local nut and bolt supplier. Got new Nyloc nuts for the other end too.

As long as both rear wheels are off the ground when you turn one wheel the other will turn in the opposite direction through the diff. Any movement will only go through to the front wheels if the propshaft it turned, which it won't unless you have only one wheel off the ground. The centre diff can't freewheel, it has a viscous coupling inside it joining front a rear drive. If you put it in transfer case neutral then you will be able to turn the rear propshaft without it turning the fronts but then there will be nothing to stop the front from rolling.

Why do you need to lift the rear wheels off the ground anyway?

From your question on the other thread, I've been under mine today. The adjuster on the handbrake cable couldn't be easier to access. It is about level with the rear of the transfer case, there's nothing in the way to stop you getting at it.

Agreed but this was probably the simplest bit of troubleshooting possible. Low voltage at the ECU, low voltage at the only connection between the ECU and the fusebox, low voltage at the output of the fusebox but full voltage at the fuse. Had I had the ETM with me on the first visit, it would have saved the trip to collect the, not required, replacement ECU. It must have taken far longer getting access to the ECU that to actually identify the fault. Its a case of following things through in a logical order, something many seem to have forgotten how to do (if they ever knew in the first place) these days.