Dunno, that was going to be the next thing I checked but Nano shows it to be reading roughly the right temperature and it dropped rapidly when blasted with brake cleaner. So even if the fan is gunged up, I can't see it making that much difference. Mind you, one of the backlight bulbs has gone in the HEVAC so only half the buttons light up so it's got to come out anyway.

Taxed the Ascot so I can run around in it to see if there's anything that still needs doing to finish it off and to see what packs up. Dina got in and realised she seemed to be sitting a bit high and it turns out that the passenger electric seat was stuck at the highest position at the rear and wouldn't go down. The front would go up and down but lowering it just succeeded in her sliding forward on the shiny cleaned leather. So spent the morning getting that working. Then turned my attention to a bit of testing on the HEVAC.

I've replaced one blend motor and given the other two a good clean out, check and re-grease and they are all working fine but..... It's been about 15 degrees so setting the temperature to 20 should result in hot air but it doesn't. To get hot air, the temperature has to be turned up to 26. If I poke the Program button the air comes out at maximum temperature so it isn't like the heater matrix is just cold, Nano shows it to be 65-70 degrees. Nano shows the two temperature motors to be giving a feedback figure of 83% when set at 20 degrees and rises as the temperature is turned up. Checked mine and got a figure of 70% when set at 20 degrees. Figured that the interior temperature sensor may be reading high so the HEVAC isn't giving hot air as it doesn't think it needs any but Nano shows that to be correct. Blasting the interior sensor with brake cleaner and the reported temperature dropped to -1 degree and the blend motors opened up and gave me hot air from the vents. But once the temperature sensor reported 10 degrees or higher, the output went cold again.

So it's doing everything it should, it's regulating the temperature it just needs to be told to keep the car hotter than it should. Both blowers are working, both pollen filters are new and a decent amount of air comes out of the vents, it's just the temperature is lower than it should be. I've even used the Nano to calibrate the blend motors and that made no difference. No book symbol on the display either. Any clues anyone?

The tool I made.

The hooked bit formed by welding the second bit of steel to the bar is then used to hook onto the R clips and pull them out (in theory). The right angle on the other end can then be pushed up the side of the old bag, hooked under the flat plate bit on the top and used to pull it out.

I've made clips out of welding rod in the past, I know they will go rusty but so do the real things. You can make up a tool to pull the rear top clips out, took me about 4 hours to make though and only worked on one side, the other side wouldn't shift. The alternative method number 1 is to bend the original spring until it snaps off where it goes through the top of the air spring and then use a long thin punch to push the remains out through the other side. Alternative method number 2 is to slide a 1" wood chisel under the clip, then give it a good whack with a club hammer. This chops the top off the air spring and, in theory, it just drops straight out. In practice they never drop straight out as there's going to be a build up of rust where it fits onto the chassis that will hold it in. Thin pry bar between the body and chassis should allow you to lever it out.

If they've been replaced there's always a chance that something wasn't torqued up tight enough and has some play in it? Front end bolts are pretty tight to get off so they need to be done up with the same breaker bar that you used to get them off.

Certainly sounds like it might be a CV joint, or even a loose hub nut (pretty unlikely though). I'd get the front in the air and start giving everything a good wiggle and see if you can find any slack anywhere.

no10chris wrote:

I’ve seen that interior in an H&H before, personally I think it’s bloody awful, but each to there own.

Glad I'm not alone. It always looks to me like someone had a lightstone interior and decided to dye the seats a darker colour but leave everything else lightstone. Somehow it just doesn't work and looks a bit of a mish mash. I must admit I like the exterior colour on the H&H though.

As it's in Glasgow, maybe Gordon could give it the once over, assuming he can get an appointment......

blueplasticsoulman wrote:

I guess it would be unusual for all 4 bags to spring a leak at the same time?

Not really, they will all be the same age and all done the same mileage so why wouldn't they all age at the same rate? In saying that, rears almost always start to leak before the fronts.

All in order on Firefox 52.3 on Windows XP Pro.

Probably but it will depend on the amount of weight in the car. Think about it, if you put 55 psi in the rear bags and it sits at normal height, as soon as you put some weight in it, it will sag so need more air which will raise the pressure.

blueplasticsoulman wrote:

I thought more of an inline isolation valve like you'd put on a tap or shower.

So then you are adding 2 more connections and potential leaks, at least using these there's only one additional potential leak point. It would probably be more expensive to buy 4 inline valves than a set of these too.
blueplasticsoulman wrote:

Are these just a push fit with a Schrader valve on the other end?

Yes.
blueplasticsoulman wrote:

And probably most importantly, what pressure is meant to be in a bag?

Whatever pressure is needed to lift the car. The system cuts out at 10 bar, roughly 150 psi, which is obviously adequate to overcome the weight of the car, but it is volume of air rather than pressure that dictates how high the car sits.

You could fit a set of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/P38-RANGE-ROVER-AIR-SUSPENSION-SYSTEM-EAS-EMERGENCY-VALVES-SET-/272726482487, pump each corner up and see if they still drop. That will tell you if it is the bags and not the block that is leaking. I've got a set that I keep in the car just in case I get a terminal fault that the Nano can't deal with when I'm hundreds of miles from home, so worth having anyway.

If you don't know when the bags were last changed, change them. Even if they were changed shortly before you got the car, you don't know what was fitted, the Britpart ones only had one O ring so hardly ever sealed properly. When you do change them, make sure you trim a couple of mm off the end of the pipe and chamfer it with a pencil sharpener, then the groove made by the old O ring won't stop the new ones from leaking as they'll be bearing on a clean piece of pipe.

It could still be the block as you won't be able to tell where the leak is. If it is after the solenoids, it could affect individual corners.

Unless you know the bags have been replaced fairly recently with genuine Dunlops, you could be looking at a full set. Otherwise, it's the valve block. Time for the Fairy Liquid.

Obviously not.....

It's awfully quiet tonight, has the forum broken?

blueplasticsoulman wrote:

Did you apply the sticker of the bull yourself? Or did it come attached to the battery?

Attached to the battery, it's the logo for Banner Batteries (https://www.bannerbatterien.com/en-gb/Home) it would seem. Bought from my local motor factors before everyone started recommending the ginormous one although I suspect it wouldn't fit on mine as the LPG controller is bolted to the inner wing next to the battery.

Sloth wrote:

Lest we not forget the sight of Marty's engine bay ;) sorry mate!

Yeah but look how long that lasted with the track up to his workshop.....

Sloth wrote:

That radiator looks very interesting. As I have no viscous fan on my Thor, I'd been considering one of them too. My radiator is weeping from a corner... I reckon with a bit of creative plumbing and adaptation of the top house spout, I'd be able to fit one of them in.

You could either go for creative plumbing or a bit of TIG welding. The only difference between a GEMS and Thor rad is the position of the top hose spout. When I first got mine it had a Thor rad in it and a top hose that ran over the top of the fan shroud to the opposite side of the rad. If you look at the second picture, you can see where whoever did it had heated and moulded a smooth edge on the shroud so it didn't cut into the hose.

Hmm, that's very true. But I think they must do. Every car I've ever bought has been dirty......

You may be the one that cleans and polishes everything, I consider an engine bay is supposed to be dirty, especially one that clocked over 340,000 miles a few days ago. I'll admit I did wipe the slam panel with a wet cloth before taking the pictures but that was more to wipe the raindrops off it as it started pissing down within seconds of me starting the swap.

The R90E is no longer being made which is why TT say it is out of stock. I did find one place that still lists them but not cheap (as they obviously have some old stock and are cashing in). TT told me when I was in there recently that they are now recommending the BRC AT90E. i pointed out that it was only rated for 190 bhp and they said that was a mistake and showed me the spec sheet which says they are good for up to 225 bhp. When they next do an update to their site they will correct that and remove the R90E completely. The BRC is cheaper than an R90 and Simon reckons they are dead easy to set up needing hardly any tweaking too.