If it's this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-4-0-4-6-Thor-Multi-Point-LPG-Gas-Kit-Full-Set-Up-99-02-Prins/302412202111, I'm not sure where Prins came from. It's a King ECU and OMVL injectors but I can't make out what the reducer is from the pictures but it looks like it may well be OMVL too. So nowt Prins about it at all. Although it is the same seller that sent me different coloured seats to the ones shown in the picture on the ad and sent you an Immaculate bonnet that wasn't......
blueplasticsoulman wrote:
There's a good clean looking Prins system with a King ecu on ebay. £350
Huh? It's a King system then. A Prins will have the Prins ECU and reducer (along with the dodgy external injector emulator that most of them use) and Keihin injectors. A king system will have a King ECU with whatever reducer and injectors the original installer chose to fit.
But a secondhand kit is worth at best, half of that when you can buy brand new for less http://www.lpgshop.co.uk/8cyl-mini-kit-king-obd-omvl-hp-omvl-rail/
Avoid Prins and BRC for the same reasons your Landi isn't too clever. Very limited injector options (only the ones that come with it) and, limited software availability (if at all in the case of Prins).
Rcutler wrote:
OK, So i guess then its not worth doing then.
Yes it definitely is. In the BeCM there are settings for Immobilisation Enabled/Disabled setting that to Disabled is a good thing and means you don't have to wear out the key switch and door lock constantly entering the EKA code. The other setting is EKA Enabled/Disabled which is the one you do not want to disable. Every P38 I plug my Nano into, including all 3 of mine, gets Passive Immobilisation turned off unless the owner has any particular reason for wanting it left on (and nobody has yet)
Rcutler wrote:
Can Timpsons make a blade key that will let me into the car and start it with the EKA code? I could then send my key off for repair. Or are there still electrics in the key that are needed? Can people actually fix these key or is a waste of time.
I've got a blank key blade that came with a replacement case I bought. My local Timsons couldn't do it, I had to go to a specialist locksmith. They could do it but couldn't do it while I waited. They had to find the profile from my existing key and then program their computer to cut the blank (so you get a perfect key and not a replica of your worn key). They had a problem finding the profile as it was under BMW and not Land Rover. A key blade on it's own will unlock the car and allow you to enter the EKA code, none of the electronics are needed. Fobfix could repair them but a couple of people have had problems with them just recently so it's probably better to bite the bullet and get a new one.
blueplasticsoulman wrote:
Gilbert has had recent experience with passive immobilisation being turned off. He's your man!
The problem I had was that the key switch in the latch had failed (or at least the wire to it had) so unlocking with the key blade didn't tell the BeCM that I'd unlocked it with the key, it thought I'd unlocked it by breaking a window and lifting the button up. It was when EKA had been turned off in the BeCM that it got really complicated as the immobiliser was set (from previously locking it), the fob had lost sync as the battery had gone flat, I'd unlocked it with the key blade so the immobiliser was set and as EKA had been disabled the only way to turn it off was with the fob. But as the fob can't be synced while the system is in the alarmed state, I was pretty much stuffed. So disabling EKA in the BeCM doesn't mean you don't need to enter it, it means that it doesn't ask for it.
Disabling passive immobilisation stops the car re-immobilising itself if you unlock it but don't start the car within a set time (30 seconds or 1 minute, don't recall off the top of my head). In that case you unlock the car, load the boot with shopping, dogs, kids, dead bodies or whatever, and when you go to start it, the dash comes up with Engine Immobilised, Press Remote of Enter Code. With passive immobilisation turned off it doesn't matter how long you leave it before unlocking the car and starting it, it will still start. So once turned off, simply unlocking the car will turn off the immobiliser without it being necessary to enter the EKA code. But, the central locking will still work just as it should, so unlocking with the key blade will still unlock all the doors and locking will lock them all too. Similarly, locking with the key blade will set the immobiliser too so should someone get into the car other than by unlocking with the key blade, they still won't be able to start it.
I've got one of those too, it must be at least 35 years old and still half full. I must admit, I have used it on EAS lines in the past (as well as injector O rings, coolant hoses and anything else rubbery that needed a bit of lube) but would use the silicone grease I bought for fitting ABS sensors now I've got it.
Maplin sell silicone grease, about a fiver for a decent sized tube.
How small? There's a row of 5 bolts going into the side of the block just above the sump joint that are the cross bolts for the main bearings although I wouldn't describe them as small. There is a block drain plug but that is about half way up (level with the core plugs), towards the back and is usually a square headed plug rather than a flanged head bolt. Sure that's where it's leaking from and not just a convenient place to drip off?
Unashamedly stolen from another forum (thanks classicswede) but if you are using Firefox as your browser, to get around the photosuckit blackmail you can use this add on and be able to view the blocked images
https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefo ... bucket-fix
Not an alternative to hosting the pictures somewhere else but it will let you look at pictures on older threads that are no longer able to be viewed.
I seem to remember, from the brief look at it at last years summer camp, that it's one of the Landi Renzo systems that uses an AEB controller. If it is, swapping for something like the King that has loads of different injector options would be feasible and would't require a complete re-install. Get as much info on it as you can and ask Simon if it can be made to work with the IG injectors or if you will need to change the controller too.
blueplasticsoulman wrote:
Thanks Gilbert. So anymore than 30mph in 4th is gonna nuke it then?
No more than travelling at 80 mph in high ratio with the radiator partly blanked off would. The only thing with using low ratio is that the engine is spinning at normal cruising revs but there'll be less airflow through the rad so it might start to get a bit warm. But, if it's possible to travel at 30 mph in low ratio, you probably don't need to use low ratio anyway. I used it the other week to drag a 2+ tonne trailer up the side of a mountain (which the car can manage easily in high without the trailer) and 15 mph was about the maximum I achieved.
Book it in with Simon. He may be a bit of a trek for you but if he can't sort it nobody can. It's going to be cheaper than the £400-500 you'd need to spend on a decent quality front end.
According to the spec in RAVE, overall final drive ratio in high in 4th gear is 3.13:1 and in low is 8.43:1. So as 3,000 rpm is around 80 mph in high, 3,000 rpm in 4th calculates to 29.7 mph which sounds about right from my experience.
The difficulty in getting into 1 may be down to the cable being a bit stiff rather than adjustment. If it is you'll get it so you can get into 1 but then can't get into P. All 3 of mine move nice and easily over the full range though.
I always used to struggle with a pair of pliers, or even Mole grips on the bigger sizes, when removing and refitting CT clips. Then I had to do a job on Dina's Merc and there was one about 4 inch diameter with no way of getting pliers in there to it. Went out and bought the proper tool (from Machine Mart I think) the same as the one linked to and have used it hundreds of times since as it makes things so much easier.
Mine does it too, just occasionally, and has done for at least the last couple of years.
That looks more like rusty water has been dribbling out of the O rings to me. Knob is missing from the HEVAC too so basically the climate control doesn't work at all.......
I don't suppose you know anyone with a radio scanner do you? The fob should transmit on 433.92 MHz or thereabouts and a scanner will pick it up easily. When playing with the fob for my SE I noticed that the buttons have two poles so are in effect 2 switches in one. If only one is making contact, the LED comes on but it doesn't transmit.
Ahh yes, change Parking for Park and it makes sense now. However, that does confirm the receiver is working just that it is not receiving the correct code. As it did work and doesn't any more, it has to be a sync problem, it can't be the wrong lockset code stored in the BeCM or anything like that. Does the central locking work when the EKA is entered?