Ouch, 400 quid for something that may go the same way as the one you've got in a few weeks time.

no10chris wrote:

Maybe a good idea to not play with the car on your wedding day,

I did, but not until after the reception and it was out of necessity not because I really wanted to.

I must admit that I looked at the unit, and the price, and thought it would be a good option for my daughter's MR2 Roadster as that has a double DIN size hole and she needs a satnav and Bluetooth. Only problem with it is that it is missing the most important feature, no DAB!

Might be worth looking for a kit for a BMW as it's the same engine as the older 525d. You might have more suppliers to choose from then.

Diagram for the attenuators http://www.rangerovers.net/rrupgrades/entertainment/headunitadapt.html

If you had any damaged teeth, the problem would be there all the time and not just when it gets hot so pretty unlikely. Swapping the sensor is simple enough as it does just bolt in.

Of all the different systems fitted to the P38, the DSP one is the worst when it comes to wanting to fit anything aftermarket. As most of the processing was done in the DSP amp, there's only a stereo output to the amp and a separate output for the sub. You'd need to bypass the amp so the left and right feeds to it are linked to the front speakers and run a separate two pairs for the rears. Ideally you'd need to add some crossovers too. Having looked at the work Marty has done and the grief it has caused him, I'm really glad I don't have a car new enough for it to be fitted with the DSP system.

Rough running when hot, and dying completely in some cases, is often a symptom of a failing crank position sensor. Usual way to test is to carry some cold water and give it a good soaking to cool it off when it starts playing up. If it then runs OK, that's the problem.

Mines locked up a couple of times but I found that a squirt of contact cleaner in the plug and OBD socket seems to sort that out. I knew about the ABS sensors showing as wrong and thought that had been sorted with the latest firmware release but I found another one recently. While sorting out the blend motors on the Ascot it was insisting that there was a pot fault on the RH blend motor, yet when I looked at the live data, I could see the feedback value changing as I changed the temperature but the LH one didn't. Temperature changed on the RH side too and didn't on the left so I knew it was the left one that was duff. Due to a bit of a faux pas on my part, I suspected there might be a problem with the HEVAC so swapped it with the one in the SE to test. The one in the Ascot is the early version, the one in the SE has obviously been changed at some point as it is the latest version. That showed the fault correctly as being on the LH blend motor and not the right.

However, despite it's odd little foibles, which you soon get used to, I still think it is by far and away the best tool on the market.

I've got a slight water leak in the Ascot but I know exactly where from. The plastic bits of the sunroof mechanism had broken on both sides so needed looking at. Got replacement bits from a company called Bross Auto Parts based in Turkey who sell the bits on eBay. They appear to be 3D printed parts and needed a little fettling to get them to slide properly. Got the LH side done and working fine but took the RH runner off and bought it into the house to do it last night. Left the sunroof glass just sitting in the hole but as there's no runner on one side, it was sitting a bit lopsided. It rained last night.......

Not bad since 30 December 2015, that's around 17.7 posts a day. Eat your heart out RRTH......

I would think Colin would honour the discount if you were to buy a GEMS unit and the Thor licence in one hit (or the other way round).

Can't say fairer than that even though a lot of us on here have already got one. As Colin is based in Cyprus (don't blame you, the climate is somewhat better than here) the prices are in Euros and I bought mine when the Pound/Euro rate was much stronger meaning it was a few pence over £300. Still not cheap but it has probably paid for itself on my own car compared with paying my local Indy to plug his Testbook in. Add to that the convenience of having it with me and being able to plug in to a number of other cars it's worth every penny. I went down to my mates in France a couple of weekends ago and going through the list of things I needed to bring with me he asked if I could bring the Nano. Not that there was anything wrong with his car, he just wanted me to plug it in and check for any irregularities.

He's somewhere the other side of the river in the bit that's still trying for independence. Kernow I believe they refer to it as.

The regenerative braking means that instead of a mechanical brake they use the movement to turn a generator to produce a tiny bit more electricity to put back into the battery, the drag caused by turning the generator acts as the brake instead. The latest thing that has been pointed out is that with the particulates in exhaust emissions being reduced more and more they have realised that there are particulates being produced by the friction of the tyres on the road and from brake pads. So the next step is likely to be tyres that never wear out (and therefore won't be capable of giving any grip) and electronic braking (but that needs more electricity so you'd reduce the range not only when driving but when stopping too).

No, rubbing the battery in your TV remote just warms it up a bit to squeeze the last millivolt out of it. Which makes me wonder what will happen to an electric car in the dead of winter if you let the battery go completely flat. We had some kit at work where the battery pack consisted of a pair of Lithium cells. In the pack was also the charging circuit but that had to be powered so was connected to one of the batteries. If the batteries were both drained and the kit not used for a while, it wasn't possible to charge the battery as there wasn't enough power in the one to power the charging circuitry. We would have to open the pack up and swap the internal batteries over and hope the other one hadn't been drained completely and had enough in it to power it. If that one was also completely flat, we'd sit them on a radiator for an hour or so to squeeze a tiny bit of power out of them so that the charging circuit would work. For the same reason the battery in your laptop doesn't have just a positive and negative terminal, it has two or three other connections that go to the charging circuitry. So what will happen in the cold with a completely discharged Lithium battery in an electric car?

Incidentally, Gordon's comment earlier about pollution rising when the emissions crap was fitted may hold more than a little truth. We all know how bad a modern diesel stinks but I've currently got a series 1 Discovery here with the old 200 TDi engine. So no cats or particulate filters. While the exhaust fumes from that still smell like diesel exhaust, they don't burn your eyes or have the Hydrogen Sulphide smell like the stench that comes from a VAG TDi for example.

So all you have to do now is meet up with OB somewhere and get the SRS light turned off.

Hmm, I wonder if that is the original or one that has been replaced at some time in it's life? There's two part numbers for the very early one, the one that was fitted originally (AMR3375) and one that superseded it (AMR6405), although this is different again to the one for the post 97 cars (AMR6476). I've always assumed the change in part number signified a redesign (thicker tracks maybe?) but it may be a sort of interim. Does everything work? Does it still have a visible part number and if it does, which one is it?

Because nothing is 100% efficient so you would always need more power to turn the alternator than it is capable of generating. You could, in theory, use an electric motor to turn a generator which would produce the power to turn the motor so you'd have a perpetual motion machine, something that would continue spinning all day long. But it won't because to generate the amount of power needed to turn the motor the generator would need more power than the motor can supply. You never get anything for nothing.

It is, looks like new. Morat will be livid, someone that does more cleaning than him.......

That wasn't until the 99 Thor ones that had the extra relay, my late 97 SE and 98 ex-plod don't have that either. They both have the same fusebox but the Ascot will be the earlier one. I'll have a look in the morning and see if there's anything obvious.

Part number? Dunno but there can't be that many differences or there'd need to be different wiring diagrams for the early and later ones. Never compared them to see though (and no, I'm not going to take them off the pre 97 and one of my post 97 cars to compare).