For completeness, the reason why the Matrix injectors supplied with a Zavoli system have Zavoli stickers on them is that in Italy the whole system must come from one manufacturer. This also explains why multitudes of different systems use the AEB controller but with a different label (and firmware). That way a Zavoli system will use a Zavoli reducer but other bits from different manufacturers but all bearing Zavoli stickers.
Not changed but they should be greased every 10,000 miles when you do a service. As long as they are kept properly lubed they are very unlikely to fail but if they aren't then they don't last long running dry.
Yes, the top line Zavoli systems came with Matrix injectors with a Zavoli sticker. Somebody paid a lot of money to have that system installed.
OldShep56 wrote:
How is it running, Gilbert? Your pal got a bloody good deal there when you consider some of the problems the guys here have.
Absolutely perfectly, he's towed his caravan with it a couple of times, almost got nicked for speeding towing his loaded car transporter trailer at 80mph and reckons it's the best car he's ever owned. He's painted the front grille, cleaned everything, put a boot liner in it to keep it clean when his dog is in the back and his 12 year old son has worked out how to program the sat nav. I replaced the idler pulley which was making the whining noise which we thought was the alternator and gave it a new serpentine belt, replaced the full run of cruise control hoses so that works but we still haven't done the rocker cover gaskets, he's always driving around in it!
If they look like this (but with 4 thin pipes coming out of them)
http://tinleytech.co.uk/shop/lpg-parts/matrix-xj-544-18-injector-rail-4-cylinder-black/
they are Matrix. Not cheap but damn near bomb proof and last for ever.
but only as a temporary measure. It's now had the jumper removed and a replacement thermal switch fitted.
As you are keeping it on air and want to retain the ride quality stick with Boge every day. That's what LR fitted in the first place so they ought to be properly matched.
The Goodyear Wrangler HP All Weathers I've had on mine for the last 3 years are C rated and have been fine wet and dry. Both the Kleber and Vredestein Quatrac are C rated too, both supposed to be as good as a winter tyre on snow and both have a 70dB noise figure. As there's only £5.50 difference in price and Clive reckons they are decent, looks like I'll be going for the Vredesteins. The General AT3 has a B for wet grip but a noise figure of 75dB which seems to bear out my findings with the earlier ATs on the Ascot.
The Ascot is on the standard 8Jx18 wheels and 255/55x18 tyres, BUT, as my car is ex-plod, it has 7Jx16 wheels rather than the 8J in 16 or 18 that are normally fitted to the P38, so mine runs on 235/70x16 tyres, so the options for me may well be different.
Morat wrote:
What flavour of Grabbers are they? The AT2 on the Jeep might well be noisy but you wouldn't notice over the engine and wind noise :) I can't hear the (newer) tyres on the P38 which is, of course, pretty quiet.
It's got a matched pair of ATs on the front and an AT2 and a Landsail on the back. All have a good 8mm of tread but it's the fronts that are the noisy ones. I've been looking for a secondhand AT2 so I can at least have matched tyres on each axle. Report is that it grips well in the snow though. As Dina was working an overtime early shift today she left home at 5am as the snow was starting and got back at 2pm just before it turned the sleet she went to work in it rather than a rear wheel drive Merc on summer tyres.
Ascot has Grabbers on it and while they seem to grip well are bloody noisy.
Here you go https://www.mytyres.co.uk/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?dsco=110&cart_id=12777676.110.72557&sowigan=GAN&Breite=255&Quer=55&Felge=18&Speed=&Marke=&suchen.x=x&m_s=3&kategorie=6&Transport=P&suchen=Show+tyres. I'll be fitting a set of Kleber Citilanders to mine in the next week or so ready for a drive to Latvia for the new year as they are an all season tyre that is supposed to be as good on snow as a genuine winter tyre (also have a decent EU marking, made by a company you've heard of, low noise, 3 mountain markings and at £82 a corner in my size, the price is decent too).
From this mornings playing out, I can tell you that Goodyear Wranglers with about 3mm of tread left are absolute crap in snow.....
You a big bloke then? I only jack mine if I need to take wheels off, the rest of the time I just put the suspension on high, leave the tailgate open and crawl underneath.
I'd still say propshaft UJ though....
But that one is green?
Viscous couplings don't usually just fail though, they need some abuse to kill them. They also cause the car to hop around when manoeuvring on full lock at low speeds as the front wheels are scrabbling for grip. So even someone not used to a P38 would know something isn't right.
Never known a diff to just break, get very noisy yes, but not stop you from driving. I'd say your noise is more likely to be a propshaft UJ, possibly one that got damaged with the strain on it from the diff failure. That would also make it pull one way or another if the UJ has seized or broken up. Don't drive it until you've got underneath and had a good look.
Book symbol on the display means it has detected a fault so has shut down whatever it is that has caused the fault. So if you can't change temperature, it has detected a fault with a blend motor, if the fans aren't running, it has detected a fault with a fan and so on. It does need plugging in to a Nanocom, Testbook or whatever to see what the fault is. It might be worth paying the £40 to get your local man to plug it in, check the faults and while he's in there turn off passive immobilisation to stop you from having to use the EKA all the time.
If you can do the work yourself, parts are dirt cheap, even good ones (not Br*tpart), and they are easy enough to work on. There's a couple of people on here that freely admitted they'd never worked on a car in their lives that have worked their way through the problems and are now enjoying driving their cars.
But he said he's looked at the rotor arm??? If it's a P38, it ain't got one (and the HT leads I linked to above would be the wrong ones).
Here you go, all the Impco spare parts you could possibly need http://tinleytech.co.uk/shop/?pa_brand=impco&widget_search=yes or you could, as I said in the other thread, just sling the Impco and bung a single point system on instead. This http://tinleytech.co.uk/shop/lpg-kits/single-point-closed-loop-induction-system-petrol-injected/ would do the job nicely.
Of course, your third option would be to get it to Simon and see what the actual problem is, at least then if it can be saved and won't cost too much, you'll know what bits to change.
For £700 you could replace the Impco with a singlepoint system the same as I run on mine, twice......
93 means it is a Classic so would have originally had a 3.9 or 4.2 (if LWB) but I know a few people have fitted 4.6 motors and used the front cover from the original engine to retain the distributor. HT leads aren't that expensive, you could try a set of these http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/lead-high-performance-9498-hls101xp-p-4106.html and while you are at it, treat it to one of these http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/distributor-rotor-facet-stc1857f-p-4107.html.
Yes but are they intended to come apart? I assume they must, even if the end bit is pressed on, or they'd never be able to get the spring in there.