I don't but I'm sure Simon (LPGC) will pop up shortly and tell you a) which pins you need to use and b) why it isn't a good idea.

Pins are identical so you don't need to have the pinouts, just plug in your new controller to your old loom. You won't have the wires there for the OBD connection as they weren't in the older loom, however, most people that have tried it on a P38 have disconnected the OBD connection as it doesn't work particularly well.

Not quite a complete set, the bolts are missing from the battery cover........

I'd go one step further and say generics definitely won't read HEVAC faults. My guess would be a lazy blend motor though.

super4 wrote:

Does the reducer have a fixed pressure output that must simply be matched by the pressure setting and if so how does one know what the pressure is ?

You don't and you don't need to. The pressure is set when it was installed by adjusting the Allen bolt on the reducer. Then you tell the software what pressure it is set to. Changing the figure in the software without physically adjusting the pressure on the reducer will just make things go out of kilter. It will be adjusting for a pressure that it thinks it is running at when it is actually running at a different pressure. The same goes for the Lambda setting. Yes, the car has two lambda sensors but are they both connected to the LPG system? It may be that only one of them is connected so 1 would have been correct.

Wasn't aware that Steve at Jaymic was registered on here but anyway, the pressure setting in the software should match the actual pressure setting so changing it will make no difference at all. Not familiar with the Zavoli software but if it is the same as other AEB based systems, you have to press Enter after making any changes or they don't happen. I'd be inclined to leave everything as it is, it worked so even though the settings are wrong, it won't make a difference. I've seen a singlepoint system on a P38 that had the software set as a 4 cylinder engine and single coil whereas it should be 8 cylinder and dual coil. Made no difference at all as it was only used to detect the engine rpm and a 4 cylinder engine with a single coil gave the same rpm readout as an 8 cylinder with dual coil.

Somehow you managed to chop the end off the command, after the url to the picture, there should be further text that then closes the brackets.

Like this

Upload the picture to Imgur and paste the Direct Link (second one down that ends in jpg) into the box. It will then appear in the post.

That was something they managed to make far too complicated where you only got the exception if you drove a particular car fitted with a specific LPG system. Unlike the recently introduced French system where my LPG fuelled Range Rover has been issued with a Class 1 vignette, the same as a small engined, Euro 6, petrol car. Had it been running on petrol it would be Class 3, a Euro 6 diesel is Class 4, a Euro 5 diesel is Class 5 and any earlier diesel doesn't get one at all so can't go into Paris, Lyon and Grenoble. Now that is what you call sensible, anything running on LPG or CNG is treated as only one level down from an EV or hybrid.

An EV would be no good to me at all. I have a works van, supplied by a Government Department, that is a stinky diesel, costs the taxpayer £10.40 two or three days a week when I have to go into the congestion charge zone but does between 150 and 200 miles a day. How could I do that, and still get a days work done, in an EV? For my own car, I'm currently the best part of 1,000 miles south of home. While I may do the odd short journey, could I really justify having an EV to go and do the shopping when the rest of the time (every other weekend at the moment) I'm doing anything between 1,000 and 2,000 miles.

I've got mine set to changeover at 1,200 rpm and 1 second changeover. Admittedly it's a different system but there's nothing to stop you trying the same. On mine, I start the engine, the revs rise as it fires and it changes over as the revs drop down again.

For quite a number of years, Vauxhall would supply a car ready fitted with an LPG system, straight from the showroom and with full manufacturers warranty. Many owners were perfectly happy with these and had no problems. The problems came much later, by which time the one employee at the main dealers who had been on the course and knew how to service the gas system had left or retired, nobody else knew anything about it and it never got serviced. The fact that many of these systems continued to run quite happily for 100-150,000 miles with no maintenance whatsoever is testament to the fact that a properly installed LPG system is as, if not more, reliable than a petrol or diesel fuel system. The problem is that once these cars did start to suffer problems (due entirely to the lack of maintenance), coupled with the dire standards of many aftermarket systems, the old wives tales got around about how unreliable LPG systems are and demand fell until Vauxhall decided to drop the option.

Vauxhall weren't alone, Ford, LDV and Mitsubishi (and Volvo too I believe) all also offered an LPG option. All of them did the same as Vauxhall had done though and rather than fit a readily available retrofit kit that would be understood and could be serviced by just about anyone in the LPG trade, they went to a manufacturer and had a bespoke system designed specifically for them. The problems then came because information and spares for the systems were extremely difficult to obtain. The biggest threat to LPG conversions is direct injection engines which are far more difficult to convert than conventional port injection engines.

It may not start too easily on gas when hot, or if it does will almost certainly crank for longer. Try it but if it doesn't start up immediately, then leave it starting on petrol but change the changeover delay to as short a time as the software will allow.

Aragorn wrote:

If your barreling up and down a motorway doing hundreds of miles, then sure diesel is still the best option.

Diesel is never the best option. If you are doing serious mileage, LPG is by far and away the best. Vastly cleaner than diesel and cheaper too.

Hydrogen could be used relatively easily in an ICE.. It has an Octane rating of >130 so could allow an engine to be tuned to take advantage of that and it's stoichiometric ratio should mean decent economy. For petrol and diesel it is around 14 parts air to one part fuel (by weight) and for LPG it is 15.5 but for hydrogen it is 34 parts air to one part hydrogen. Admittedly as this is by weight and Hydrogen is lighter than air, that would require a greater volume but would still make it viable. With a boiling point of -253 degrees C it couldn't be stored as a liquid but then neither can Methane and CNG (Compressed Natural Gas) is used as a fuel in conventional ICE engines operated by some fleets in the UK and is common for consumer use in Italy. CNG stores the fuel in a purpose made tank at around 100 bar. As far producing it, two electrodes in water and there it is, it is as close as we are ever likely to get to running a car on water.

super4 wrote:

I see on the Zavoli Tech Man software there is an error page which I never reached that includes Gas injectors - should I do this again and see if there is anything showing ?

All that can show is and electrical problem, if an injector is open or short circuit, not whether or not there is any gas flowing through it or if it is at the correct pressure.

Matrix injectors are probably the most reliable you can get (which is why they are so damn expensive!) so unless you have been filling it with really poor quality gas and have no filters in there, it is unlikely they will need anything doing to them. They wouldn't cause a drop in pressure anyway, just rough running. The cable going into the block is the feed to the internal solenoids to open the injectors when required. The pressure is before it gets that far. For a leak to be sufficient for you to see a drop in pressure, it would need to be very big, not just a few bubbles. If you can hear gas leaking out when you move the injector block, look at the larger feed pipe rather than the small output pipes. I suspect all your hoses have gone hard with age so aren't going to be good. If I were you I'd start by getting a replacement pressure sensor (assuming you have an 013) and some lengths of replacement hose and clips for it. While changing them you'll probably find the cause of the fault anyway.

Have a look at the number on it. If it is an 013, replace it with the later 025 (and cable adapter) as it will almost certainly be dead. There won't be any pressure in the 4 small pipes from the Matrix injector blocks to the inlet manifold. You should have vapour at 1.1 bar from the reducer to the injector block and the 4 small pipes just go to nozzles fitted in the inlet manifold. If you get a his when you move the injector block, then it is in the feed to the block not in the 4 pipes after it. The injector block is just 4 small solenoid valves that open to squirt gas in to each cylinder.

With a front axle that is flopping from side to side and a busted anti roll bar drop link, I'm surprised you ever managed to get it to drive in a straight line. I think you are going to notice the difference when you put it back together.

Huh? I'll stick to cars and radio I think. That went completely over my head......

To echo what Simon said, and he is a full time LPG installer after all, do not use petrol hose for LPG, it will dissolve it. You must use the proper stuff. Not sure what you mean by matrix and injectors? The injectors are Matrix, that's the brand. There's two different sections to the gas system, the liquid phase, the tank, tank solenoid, fuel line, filter, shut off valve and the first stage of the reducer. This lot all contain gas as a liquid at around 10 bar pressure (roughly 140 psi). Then you have the vapour side, that's the other half of the reducer, a vapour filter (maybe) and the injectors. This lot is full of vapour which, according to your software, is at 1.1 bar. Your software was showing a drop in vapour pressure as the revs went up, the system detects this drop in pressure and assumes you have run out of gas so switches back to petrol. What you need to find out is why is the pressure dropping, Is it because only a limited amount of gas is getting to the reducer, so a problem on the liquid side or is it because there is a leak on the vapour side so there's not enough gas to run the engine and feed the leak. Doubtful I'd say or you would smell a leak that big.

OK Marty, as I've got a broadband connection with a fixed IP address, how do I do it?