You can have the seal, I blagged the last one he had from Avenger 4x4 and was going to drop it in to him so he'd got one on the shelf. Yes, it's wheel off, caliper off, unplug the ABS sensor and pull the cable out of the clips, 6 bolts on the back of the hub (13mm, 12 point), pull hub and driveshaft out, lever old seal out, tap new one in and put it back together. If you want to be really thorough, you can take the brake disc off and clean the oil from the inside of the disc and backplate while you are at it. Shouldn't take more than an hour start to finish.

Easiest way to connect a charger if the battery has gone completely flat and you can't get into the car is by crawling under it and clipping onto the big positive terminal on the starter. Another good reason for making sure your EAS is in good nick so it stays where you left it and doesn't sink to the floor (unless you are even skinnier than me!).

You probably don't want to here this, but looking at the optical illusion that makes the front radius arms look bent or straight depending on the angle you look at them from, I've just noticed something else. Your offside rear axle oil seal is starting to leak, you can see the damp patch on the brake backplate. It's a simple enough job to change one and as it happens, I've got a brand new axle oil seal in it's packet here that you can have. I ordered one and paid for next day delivery for the car in France that I went over and changed the rear wheel bearing on, it didn't arrive in time but I managed to get one locally so I now have the one where next day was actually 3 days. My own fault, to make the postage worthwhile I ordered a couple of extra bits but failed to notice that if anything is a non-stock item, LRDirect wait until they have the full order before sending it out even if you do pay for next day delivery.

Marty, have you confirmed the Wattage needed to satisfy the BeCM? I only ask as Dina's Merc complained about a blown front sidelight bulb. I didn't have any 5W capless bulbs but did have a couple of spare 3W P38 dash illumination capless bulbs so put one of them in instead. Bulb lit up nicely, and you couldn't see any difference between that one and the other side with a 5W in it, but the car still complained that the bulb was blown. Swapped it for a 5W and the car was happy again.

But if you look at the last two, you can see what shape the front radius arms really are. It's just the angle you took the first two from.

and as it's at a DAF main dealers, I suspect the lift is, shall we say adequately, rated. Now that's what Marty needs to get before next year........

No, but I have to ask, why? If you want to know what is underneath, crawl under and have a look.

It should only superlock if you press the button on the fob twice, one press locks it, two presses superlocks it. So if you have a bit of key bounce in the fob you could superlock it when you don't mean to. Same with locking with the key, turn it once to lock, twice to superlock. When you lock it the indicators flash once, when you superlock it, they flash 3 times and about 15 seconds after you lock it you hear the superlock motors do their thing. I know the earlier ones are worse for problems but I always superlock mine, it's just habit to press the fob button twice and it hasn't locked me out yet (although we did discover at last years Summer Camp that the superlock on my drivers door doesn't work). All 433 MHz devices are licence exempt as momentary operated devices so shouldn't transmit all the time but they must be the only devices known to man that when they fail they don't stop working they work continuously and that causes a problem. You'll also flatten the battery if something is momentary but transmitting very frequently. The Watchman units on heating oil tanks have a habit of transmitting every few seconds instead of every hour when the battery in them starts to go flat. Then your BeCM never gets chance to go to sleep and the car battery will go flat.

One thing we discovered this weekend with Smiler's early DSE was that if Immobilisation was turned off in the BeCM, which you would normally do to stop the engine being immobilised if you don't start it within 30 seconds of unlocking the door, it immobilises it permanently. Very early cars didn't have the mobilisation coil around the ignition switch so we suspect that if that isn't there they don't have the passive immobilisation enabled anyway and turning it off causes the whole thing to get very confused.

I could when the pair of you were following me. OB's headlights were a bright white but not dazzling in my mirror (so obviously set up properly) whereas yours were decidedly yellow looking. A bit too yellow looking I thought, are you sure you've got bulbs in there and not candles?

I think you've just found your problem......

Doesn't matter, it's a simple on-off switch. Make sure you give a good squirt of contact cleaner into both multiway connectors before putting it in.

Main difference between and internal and external tank is the way they are intended to be secured. You can have either a toroidal (with the multivalve in the empty centre of the tank) or a filled toroidal (which as there is no hole in the centre has to have the multivalve on the outside) intended for internal or external mounting. The tank you have could be mounted externally as it has the lugs all the way round for mounting straps.

Pull it apart and get your soldering iron out. I did that on mine when I first got it and that extended it's life for about 5 years.

There is, but Dina was in there using a wire brush to get the remains of the old headlining and foam off and getting herself covered in sticky orange foam.

Oh dear, prepare for a tale of untold woe. Seems I've just bought it.......

It's definitely there, but probably buried behind the sound deadening.

Just got home but no, there wasn't anyone there at 09:16. Smiler had gone home for the night and had an hours drive to get back there, Morat, Orangebean, Dina and me were enjoying the full English at the hotel and the fact that he wasn't there dispelled the rumour that Marty hadn't gone home but had spent the night kipping in the workshop (although we are still waiting for the concrete proof that you didn't).

So, how did it go? Well, OB, Morat, Smiler and Marty now have nice new headlinings covered and installed. Then there's another one done to go into one of Marty's project cars. Smiler found that the only fault with his HEVAC was a dead LH blower but that can be explained by a burnt out fusebox and that if you turn off passive immobilisation on a very early car, it immobilises it permanently. He also spent the entire of today adjusting the tracking on Marty's car (serves you right for bringing the tracking rig). Morat continued to confirm his position as the barbecue master and kept us fed while everyone else just wandered from car to car helping out with anything that needed help with. Dina spent the whole of yesterday stripping the remains of the old headlining material off the headlining shells and preparing them for the new material to be stuck on.

Sloth spent a lot of time doing stuff (not entirely sure what but he kept himself busy) and then decided to take OB up on the offer of the use of some EAS calibration blocks. Then it all went completely wrong when we found that his front right flatly refused to move from where it was. That meant that it sat at standard height until it was let down (by pulling the airline) when it then flatly refused to lift again. A raid of Marty's stock of unknown bits, found a valve block that worked and finally, he had suspension that did what it should. Someone had obviously been playing with the calibration as when it was supposed to drop to motorway height, it was dropping the left side but raising the right!

Smiler, just noticed that your car will no longer lock on the remote. Did you get that sorted today? As the fob will need to be synced as you had the battery off yesterday.

All in all though, a pretty productive weekend even if everyone has managed to get sunburnt..

There's two circuits, a standard hydrostatic circuit and the powered circuit. Air in the hydrostatic circuit will result in a spongy pedal when the power circuit isn't pressurised, air in the power circuit will result in a delay between hitting the pedal and the brakes coming on. Your best bet is to do a full bleed, follow RAVE to the letter, and set aside plenty of time as it isn't quick.

I don't have a problem and we do have 4 or 5 L322 owners registered. Main problem is that the majority of us here own P38s so that is what we have experience of and gets spoken about. We can offer suggestions based on experience rather than what we can find (and you could too) by using Google. However, in saying that diagnosing a fault is the same no matter what you are talking about, you work out the correct sequence of things and stop when it stops. It's one of those things that you either have or you don't in the same way as some people become engineers and others become artists. We've all got RAVE and that covers the L322 so working through a problem is no different, we just won't have the benefit of having been there.

There is one thing though, and I have recently been over to France a couple of times to maintain a P38 belonging to a French resident originally from Florida and she did the same. They are Range Rovers made by Land Rover, a Rover is one of these.......

There's two, a single pressure switch and the trinary switch. Trinary has a Schrader valve behind it so can be changed with gas in the system, the pressure switch doesn't.