It depends who made them. My worry is that even genuine Land Rover ones may not be made to the same spec as the 15 year originals. I've used stretch bolts on other things in the past and you can feel when they start to stretch as they suddenly become easier to turn (and if they were never intended to stretch, that's just before they break). The only time I've used the stretch bolts on a V8 head, that didn't happen, I was just hanging on a long bar to manage the second 90 degrees. When the thread is going into the aluminium block, I was concerned I was going to pull the thread out. I was also advised against getting the cheap ones as they were described as being made of chocolate and would snap off half the time. That suggests that the cheap ones are too soft and stretch (or break) too easily and the decent ones I got are too hard and don't stretch enough.

Mine was much the same, maintained the inside of the car at a comfortable 20 degrees even when it was 38 degrees outside. It's not often people complain that it's getting too hot when I open the window for a fag......

They ain't Titanium, they're steel. They have the course UNC thread on one end to go into the block and a much finer thread and a hex hole on the other end so you can screw them into the block. The finer thread means there's much more control on the tension. That and the fact you only need to torque them down to 65-70 ft/lbs means you don't need a scaffold pole on the end of the socket to do them up!. For ease of use alone, I wouldn't use stretch bolts ever again.

Putting both sides on Lo, I can give myself frostbite! I stuck a digital thermometer probe in one of the vents and the air coming out was around 3 degrees.

Although I have the coil around the lock, I have NEVER seen the LED flash at any time except when I press a button on the fob, not on either car. Maybe the coil isn't doing anything? Possibly, if Dave doesn't normally have to press unlock, his coil works most of the time but just sometimes it doesn't so it needs the button pressing instead.

Or just do what I do on the SE which is getting more or less ignored at the moment as I've far too many other cars to deal with. Lock it with the bonnet open, disconnect the negative of the battery, close bonnet and leave it. When I want to start it, unlock the drivers door with the key, put key back in my pocket and open the bonnet, reconnect the battery which will cause all doors to lock again (hence putting the key in my pocket), unlock the doors, start the engine. It's got a Parrot bluetooth thing in it which was wired to permanent live so would flatten the battery in a few days but even with the 5 year old battery I took off my white one when I thought I should maybe replace it as it was five years old, it'll fire up straight away and only needs the windows resetting which is no big deal.

dave3d wrote:

Let down again tonight. Filled the car with diesel in a busy garage and would not start - "engine immobilised", then "press key fob".

Mine does that all the time? If I don't lock it while filling up, it will immobilise after 30 seconds or a minute (can't remember which) and I've got into the habit of pressing the unlock button on the fob before I try to start it. If I don't, depending on how long it's been left, sometimes I can press unlock with the key in position 2 but if it's been left a longer time, I have to turn the ignition off, press unlock and then start it. The important thing is when you press unlock, do you hear the door latches do anything? Mine will cause the motors to try to unlock even though they are already unlocked.

That's Emmotts, you'll have no problem with them, they are really good.

If the picture of the HB019 on the website is anything to go by, the terminals are the wrong way round........

Reviews suggest you'll need the Hankook link sooner than the 3 year warranty would suggest.

Where are you getting the heads from? Not RPi I hope......

If you get stuck with delivery, I'll be delivering a Jag down to the the south in 3 or 4 weeks time so could drop them off on the way by.

The dreaded triple beeps followed by all 3 ABS traction control lights and alternating ABS Fault and TC Fault is definitely not welcome approaching Lyon on the way to Nice with a fully restored Series 1 E type on a trailer behind me. Despite the warnings, everything seemed normal as I rolled into the services but after applying the brakes a couple of times, they most definitely weren't. ABS pump Maxi fuse blown, pump tested short circuit so nothing that could be done in the service area. No choice but to carry on and just hope that the fact that the only time I should need the brakes is at the toll booths and I'd get at least 1km notice of those. Failing dismally to find a pump in France (other than one for a Classic for 500 Euros), I had to do the return journey using both feet on the brake pedal every time I wanted to stop. Not saying the retardation was minimal but it wasn't even enough to pull on the over-run brakes on the trailer!

Looks like you are doing a very neat job of it Tony but that hoses looks to be very thick? Much thicker than the hose from the injectors on most systems. I'll measure the outside diameter of the hoses on my SE and see what they are.

Yes, GEMS is wasted spark too. The only difference is that the GEMS has 4 double ended ignition coils whereas the Thor has two 4 output ones but if you check each is actually 2 double ended coils in one block.

The system will need a permanent 12V supply and an ignition switched supply but it picks up the ignition switched supply on the Red/White wire that connects to the common switched power on one of the petrol injectors.

It's not white/purple, it's white/pink and it's the coil driver signal to one of the ignition coils (cylinders 5 and 8 but you could use any), so the equivalent on the Thor would be pins 2, 6, 7 or 8 on C0638 at the engine ECU. Because you have a wasted spark ignition system, there will be two pulses for every one that is needed but there is a setting for number of coils in the LPG software. You'll need to set that correctly (dual-coil I think) so the software reads the same rpm as your engine is doing.

Ah, it's using that instead of the more normal temperature sensor on the reducer.

Once the sensors tell the ECU that conditions are right to change over (reducer temperature and gas pressure), it doesn't just change but it looks for a change in revs. It is usual on a multipoint to set it to change on acceleration as the revs pass a certain point. You want it to switch over at fairly low revs, my SE was set to change over at 2,000 rpm so, in theory, it should have changed over as you accelerated past 2,000 rpm. But if you were driving normally in traffic, it would never reach 2,000 rpm as the gearbox would change up before the revs got that high. I could drive for miles with the ready to change light on the switch flashing and it would only change if I dropped it into neutral and gave it some revs. So, you want it to change over at an rpm setting that you will achieve normally, 1,300 rpm would probably be a good one to try.

Ferryman wrote:

I need the inline cooling temp sensor anyway so after the weekend I will pay them a visit.

??? You have a temp sensor on the reducer and one on the fuel rail to detect fuel temperature but not one on the cooling system. If you decided to connect the lambda sensors, don't use the grey wires, just Tee the Purple onto the lambda sensor signal wire.

Not seen aluminium nozzles, usually they are brass. Although still not that strong. Use a non-setting Loctite so they don't vibrate loose but can still be removed if you need to.

Drilled and tapped, M6 thread, with a blob of loctite or similar to make sure they seal and don't vibrate loose.

Clips are available in various sizes so that won't be a problem.

Injector cuts go between the ECU and injectors.

You've got two banks on the engine and two sets of injector cut wires, one for each bank, so you connect one set of cut wires to the odd cylinders and the other set to the even cylinders.

Be very careful with a Thor as the end cylinders cross over so the 4 inlet tracts on the left side don't go to cylinders 1, 3, 5 and 7, as you would expect, they go 2, 3, 5, 8. So you will need to cross the LPG injector connections over too so the correct injector fires.

O2 sensors can be connected. They don't affect the running of the LPG system, they simply allow you to see what they are doing from the screen on the laptop when connected rather than having to use an OBD reader as well to make sure they are switching.

But, with the nearest user being over 35km away, it would need to be sending the same colour code to cause the repeater to wake up in the first place. It's always possible that the other user has a mobile in use in the area I suppose. It's a very old licence so they may well have recently changed to a digital system and their supplier has just picked a colour code at random. But if that was the case, then I would expect the audio to be heard as well. Suppose we'll have to wait and see what Zycomm have to say.