My 2000 X-reg doesn't have working aircon, but the heating does work after a fashion. Yesterday, we were off on a 30-mile trip and, in the sunshine, we were getting too warm, even with the heater fan off. Pressing the buttons until both sides were indicating LO made no difference. As I predicted, after making our visit and restarting the car, the heater was producing only cold air. However, the sun had gone in and resetting to HI provided heat to the passenger but not the driver. This has happened before! I suspect that next time I drive it, there will be heat both sides, as occurred on a previous occasion. It seems to be predictably unpredictable! I'm sure some of you know why. We've had it a year now and in the summer I just left the heater on LO. Otherwise I've generally left it on 23 and controlled it on the fan. It works as regards change the settings from screen to face-level to feet etc. Clearly the blender motors work, but not when I want them too. Any suggestions?

I have a leak from the pump top cover and have obtained a new gasket Part No. 1461 015 303 from my local diesel specialists CP diesel in Lincoln. Cost £3.22 inc. VAT.
I'm now needing to be sure which socket I need to undo the wierd-shaped long bolt at the front outer corner of the cover. I've watched the Youtube video, but if he tells us which one it is, I missed it. There is a Neilsen product with 7mm and 12.6mm sockets, of which the 7mm socket might be the one, but there also Audi/VAG sets with 6.5 and 7.5mm sockets, also for Bosch pumps. Who can tell me for sure? Thanks.

My HEVAC system doesn't work perfectly, but I can get warmth in the winter and turn it off in the summer so it's not so bad! This week the display has behaved erratically, losing bits, going blank and then working fine again on the last journey. I've watched a Youtube clip showing how to fix it with a Zebra Strip. My question is whether I can buy a suitable strip cheaply from a local source, as a generic item, and, if so, what precise size should it be? I see that there is a strip on Ebay for that specific job, but it is £13.16 inc. p&p for just the strip or £20.95 for the strip and bulb kit. There are bits of strip of various sizes on Ebay, but all from US suppliers. It seems like something that might be just a couple of pounds, if I could find the right spec. and a supplier. Anyone been here before?

A few days ago I queried a problem with 'jumping locks', which seems to be caused by wear in the driver's front door latch so that the CDL microswitch isn't reliable pressed in to apply the earth condition to keep the doors unlocked during motion. Until I have the time and inclination to remove the lock and investigate, I decided to travel with the doors locked by depressing the sill-lock, thereby creating a stable condition. Imagine my surprise today when the sill-lock was depressed and nothing happened to the other locks at all! We completed a short journey with no jumping locks, parked the car and I locked it with the fob. All doors locked. Later I returned to the car and unlocked it with the fob, started the engine and tried the sill-lock again. Nothing. We returned home and I locked the car with the fob. All sill-locks down. How can that happen when, as I understand it, the same microswitch is unswitched whether the car is locked electronically or physically? I should add that we tried pushing the sill-lock on the passenger door down and that didn't do anything either.

I know there has been much on here about this topic but here goes anyway. I understand that there are 3 microswitches in the driver's door latch. One of them switches the earth/ground for the rest of the door latches, so if it plays up the other locks lock/unlock randomly as mine have begun to do, but the driver's door remains unlocked (whilst the car is being driven). I've looked at a Youtube video which shows the black plastic piece in the door latch moving across the microswitch with the red/black connections, depressing the pip. I understand that this is when the driver's door is locked and that it interrupts the earth connection, thus de-energising the other lock motors. It isn't what I expected and I may have misunderstood the narration. What I want to know is how I can temporarily control the other locks with a manual switch until I am ready to remove the door latch and sort it properly. Is the problem with that switch due to the pip wearing a groove in the plastic so that the pip is not depressed properly and the earth is intermittently connected, because that would suggest that the pip is depressed when the driver's door is unlocked, which is not what the chap on the video seemed to say? Are the necessary components to effect a permanent repair available? Presumably the black wire on the back of the double microswitch is a common earth for the blue wire (door ajar) and the red wire (C/L), is it? In which case if I disconnect the red wire and provide a temporary 'permanent' on/off switch to the black wire, I can control the locking of the other doors with that switch? I know there is a fellow who can supply reconditioned latches, but I'm looking for a temporary remedy now and my own repair to the latch/switch later. Thanks..

Since getting my 2.5 DSE Auto about 5 weeks ago I've been aware that the ankle angle required to press the accelerator far down was uncomfortable and it seemed too far away. I looked at the position of the pedal, which was far lower (further away) than the brake pedal. I have attached a 3/4 inch thick rubber pad to the pedal and now find it perfectly comfortable. Is this an issue others have noticed? If so, are there better remedies? I understand that the pedals were arranged so that the car could be driven whilst wearing wellies.

When I bought my 2.5 DSE Auto it had some history with it. It had two new Nexen rear tyres (255 55 18) at 114295 miles. They are still on the car at 141420 miles and have about 5.5mmof tread left. If they started out with 10mm, they have worn only 4.5mm in 27000 miles, which is 6000 miles per mm. At that rate they've still got 18000 miles in them! They are date-coded 2013 and were fitted in 2014 as a pair. So is 45000 miles about normal for rear tyres in average use on-road? By comparison, what might expect for front tyres?

Thanks for adding me. I'm retired and will be working on the RR myself. It's done 141K miles and is running well. It starts instantly on all 6, even when it is freezing outside, which must be a good sign. Hot starting can be just a little hesitant. I'm not much good on electronics and have nothing for diagnostics. So far, I've replaced the heater plugs, a rear light and the pollen filters and I've been trying to sort out an ABS issue. No doubt I'll be asking for advice quite frequently. If I can contribute anything, I will. Gilbertd has been helping me in another place and suggested I join here.