White paint - Tipex might as well shift from stationery suppliers to car parts stockists, I always keep some around lol.

I didn't realise it was a common problem.. doesn't say much for the specialist who called me in lol.

Maybe a bit off topic - I was once called out to a Rangerover specialist who had an LPG converted P38 that wouldn't run on petrol but would run on gas. Problem was the petrol pump wasn't running but the petrol pump was good and the pump relay was good. I found the problem to be that the petrol ECU wasn't sending power (or earth - I seem to remember the petrol ECU supplies the earth, constant live) to the petrol pump relay. Fixed it by running a fused line from petrol injector positive to the petrol pump relay and an earth to the relay, the alternative might have been to fit a different petrol ECU.

Off subject story - Years ago me and my dad drove a lot of miles to collect a Jeep I'd bought on Ebay. When we got there the owner said 'Sorry but you've had a wasted journey, it won't run now'. Seems he must have been offered a higher price because I quickly found he'd removed the petrol pump relay and on swapping another relay into the pump position it fired straight up, the guy had to sell it to us, told him what we thought of him and we came away with the Jeep.

Email of my oily bits sent Gordon, sorry for the delay, busy busy...

Edit - But you know what... I may have overlooked the fact my results at the top of the list are stickies!

P.s. I'm not in the habit of sending pics of my oily bits and the only pics of others oily bits I'd appreciate in return will be from ladies lol.

I'll try another browser. Currently using Chrome in W10.

Title says it all...

It seems to work that way in opening time but not in oily bits or electrikery.

What would happen if he presented the car for the France/Portugal/Spain equivalent of the MOT with LPG parts fitted but disabled by pulling the fuse, perhaps removing the LPG tank?

Or, not too difficult to remove a reducer (and connect coolant pipes together), remove injectors (and plug pipes), remove the LPG ECU (and reconnect petrol injector wiring using a couple of plugs that just join striped wire to none striped).

Just looking for a get-around for Super4.

Not been on this forum for a few days, had a quick scan through posts since my last visit to catch up a bit.

Pleased to read the idle speed has been cured by elongating the holes as per Gilbert's advice. Not sure if I read there's still a very slight issue with ability to hold rpm at 1000 on the throttle, something to do with transition between off-throttle idle and coming on the throttle? If that's the case, couldn't the TPS be moved in slight steps from current position in elongated holes back toward standard position, small enough steps to allow the adaption to do it's thing? I'm not saying this to point fingers at the elongation method which was obviously a very good call by Gilbert, asking out of interest.

Will take your word on that mate, if I'd read the same posted on some other forum by someone else I might have queried whether the IAV was used as a progression jet.

Still, if the throttle does completely close maybe a cold start could prompt re-learning? Curious about what you said regards the learning only (or much more quickly) applying both ways at the closed position, not both ways for open positions. I've seen them with long standing unrelated issues that have seemed to have caused the IAV to learn to be more open (to achieve high enough rpm in the light of other problems) which have then caused higher than normal idle when the underlying problem was sorted, but I've never had a problem with them re-adapting to bring rpm back to normal idle speed.

Curious then, does disconnecting the battery on Gems reset some adaptive values?

IAV adaptives are reset when the battery is disconnected from a Jeep (yes I know not a P38)... After having the battery disconnected they will immediately stall when restarted unless the throttle is held open a bit, easy to learn the knack of preventing a stall by feathering the throttle until adaptive is relearned though. Trick is to keep the engine running at just under normal idle speed using the throttle and back off on the throttle very slightly every time idle speed climbs a bit until eventually it idles at normal speed without having to touch the throttle.

Seems to be having a lot of problems finding someone who can reset adaptives but does he really need to do that? Well before going to the lengths Super4 has been through trying to find someone to reset adaptives I'd have tried the feathering the throttle method from a cold engine start, which is when the ECU holds rpm at higher than usual rpm before settling down to normal rpm and therefore when we might expect most of the learning to take place.

Hot weather out there so engine won't see 'cold cold', will only see 'warm cold', if no luck during the day I'd try again at night or early morning when the engine is cooler or fool the engine temp sensor into thinking it's cooler.

Never had to hard reset engine adaptive values on any vehicle using specialist equipment, fixed hundreds of P38 engine management issues of all types but never touched a Nanocom, sceptical about it being necessary in this case. Aren't gearbox shift issues associated with duff TPS readings at least on one of Bosch or Gems?

Slightly off subject, I've made TPS's for carb'd vehicles I've owned (to connect the TPS wire on AEB175 systems to, also fitted a lambda in the exhaust). Short bit of rubber gas hose acting as a CV joint between the throttle shaft and potentiometer helps prevent the pot suffering side loads which might otherwise cause premature failure, can get the voltage curve to do whatever you like by playing with different value resistors between earth and the pot / live and the pot / between live and pot output. Bit of faffing but only pennies to make. A normal TPS rotates 90 degrees and output varies between 0 and 5v, if you choose a pot that'll turn about 220 degrees and stick 12v at it the voltage curve will be very similar from the outset.

I wasn't overjoyed with 'Dad my Mondeo stopped working on petrol but will run on LPG except my LPG tank is empty, I know you'e extremely busy but can you bring that full LPG tank from the yard and plumb it to my car so I can get moving again, I'm only 50 miles away' but I couldn't say no.. Cumon Gilbert only a 2000 mile round trip lol ;-)

I've had a scan through posts on recent pages, not sure if the following points could still be a factor or have already been ruled out:
Old TPS wasn't at the end of it's travel with closed throttle, new TPS was (at first) at the end of it's travel. Could the new TPS have been physically holding the throttle open a bit, accounting for the fast idle? Could adjusting TPS to prevent that still have made the TPS show less than typical (and prior) 0.7v in the idle position, giving unsmooth transition between idle and off idle? Or moving the TPS still a bit more cause higher than 0.7v at idle, still causing unsmooth transition but now also causing stalling on return to idle because the Ecu doesn't see the throttle as being closed?
Would've thought that if TPS was set so that with closed throttle voltage was close to 0.7, drive-ability wouldn't be too bad to start with and transition would only improve?

Having said that, one P38 conversion I did sticks in mind. The guy had received his bosses P38 instead of his annual work bonus and made much fuss about 'will the engine still idle nicely on LPG because I've heard this can be a problem'. Come the day he was dropping his P38 off for conversion he was 90 mins late, even though 85 mins before he arrived he'd told me on the phone he was only 5 mins away. On arrival he went to great lengths to point out how it was currently idling nicely at correct rpm etc... Oh and could I just re-tap the TPS securing threads, secure the TPS properly and sort out TPS wiring that been hacked about...I'm sure the bloke had had loads of prior grief with it and intended to blame me for any further idle/drive-ability problems. I had a fair bit of grief sorting it out but did manage it.

The chkdsk program is still in Windows, has been around since Dos, dunno if it'll work but I'd probably try it first.

In Windows, run command prompt as an administrator (right click to open and select the admin option).
If you enter 'help chkdsk' a summary of all chkdsk's runtime options/switches are displayed.

Seems entering 'chkdsk g: /f' where g: is the drive (change g to whatever drive your memory card is) and /f is the 'switch' that instructs it to fix errors might work... although I might be confusing volumes and drives.

Or an easier way - File explorer, right click on a drive, properties, tools. But you don't get all the same options that the switches in command line chkdsk provide.

Been a while since I was really into IT and it seems I'm pretty much out of it lol.

Hehe, I've met 2 of you, now after messaging Gilbert for the best part of a decade I know what he looks like.too. Conk nearly as big as mine but I didn't have to admit that... Gilbert I have you at a disadvantage Sir ;-)

Smiler wrote:

Hello folks,

Did any of the attendees of this years summer camp take any photos? My cameras SD card has corrupt and I've lost mine. I have a few low-res copies of some of them that I posted on my thread on the Retro-Rides forum but there are a few missing and I'm trying to write this months (rather late) submission.

Cheers,

Smiler.

Smiler wrote:

Hello folks,

Did any of the attendees of this years summer camp take any photos? My cameras SD card has corrupt and I've lost mine. I have a few low-res copies of some of them that I posted on my thread on the Retro-Rides forum but there are a few missing and I'm trying to write this months (rather late) submission.

Cheers,

Smiler.

Wonder if a chkdsk type program would rescue any pics from the corrupted card? Mind you if we approach diagnosis in the same way as we do most problems - Was the card OK previous to taking any pics featuring Gilbert? lol

Sorry I didn't acknowledge your post before my last post in my last Gilbert, posts crossed.
Interesting stuff, so if LRSV will build whatever people want (and probably built the Transit I mentioned) what other one-offs are we collectively aware of?

Gilbertd wrote:

Simon, you're brave, clicking on an obviously spammy link, there's no telling what's been uploaded to your computer now.....

OK, hands up, do I delete it and forever send it to oblivion?
Yeh, aware of the risks but have some free level of 'protection' installed, just a link to a website, haven't suffered a blue screen of death for years, self taught programmer circa 1980-2000 who's sold own produced software and taught IT... But the first to admit I'm decidedly behind the times compared to the likes of my son who's doing a degree in programming. I'd love to be up to date and get into microcontrollers but having said that I'm not impressed by a lot of modern day programmers reliance on an operating system which distances them from programming the actual machine, makes modern programming more a means of pushing buttons in the OS. I'd like to think I'd still get to grips with microocontrollers quicker than a generic modern day programmer, at least if the MC didn't run an OS. Written too much here I know and apologise but I'm not going mad or completely pissed, it's an interest. I occasionally read up on microcontroller spec, look at example code, see if I can find what controllers are used in vehicle ECUs and wonder about aspects such as if injector pulse duration is handled by a pwm generator or achieved solely in programming that compares open/close time to built in timers.

Gilbertd wrote:

Odd thing is, he joined in July but this is the first post he's made (unless he made another spam one and that's already been deleted).

I wondered if they have some new type of software that could do that type of thing, kind of advanced spamming, maybe even do confidence tricks.

People remember the same words on another forum, great memory? Or what's going on... Some guy who speaks English maybe in China or very advanced auto spamming?

I was going to say I wonder how the spammer manages to get a fake post so in context, as if there's a real person copying a post from another forum and adding the spam link, but I opened the spam link and it seems it's probably self explanatory... the spam website seems to offer spamware that can do that kind of thing for sale, unless there really is some fella in China making it relevant. Hmm that kind of facility could automatically copy LPG threads I made on say LPG forum to other forums and include a link to my website at the bottom without me writing another word lol.

Ah I remembered the Bobcat name then...
The one that was here was on high suspension and bigger than Rangerover wheels/tyres, had an LPG tank fitted but most of the LPG system had been removed or was broken and it wouldn't run on petrol either, was trailered here before the new engine had run more than maybe 2 minutes and before the owner had seen it running. There was a dispute between the engine builder (one of my customers) and the owner (yet to become my customer) who accused him of building an engine that wouldn't run, they agreed that if I could show the engine running nicely the owner would foot the bill for trailering or if I couldn't get it running the engine builder would remove the engine and refund, a deal I suppose the owner couldn't lose on. I found the petrol system was damaged due to bits of silicone someone had used to seal the petrol pump to the tank had entered the tank, fouled up the injectors and pressure regulator, none of which was the engine builders fault. I got the engine running nicely on LPG supplied by gas from an R90 fitted on a Jeep parked alongside it (Jeep idling on petrol to keep the R90 hot).. Took a video of that and sent it to both with a write up, which meant the engine builder was relieved of any blame and led to the owner deciding to get me to make it run LPG only, fitting some new and reconnecting some old LPG bits.

Maybe someone should have advised the cab owner he could just have cut the roof off the P38 and had a boat canopy maker make a roof for wet weather! I suppose you could mount a shed on the chassis, maybe not very unique as there are shed to vehicle conversions out there, though none I've seen on a Rangerover chassis. How about anything that might be considered an officially made model along the lines of the old forward control Landrovers?

Is there a Rangerover with a Volvo derived diesel?