The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
192 posts

@karlos01 have a look at this chart.

Standard fuse chart

What you need to do, with everything off, and the BeCM asleep, is get your digital volt meter and probe the back of each fuse, where the metal tabs are bare on the back of the fuse. Set the DVM to milivolts and measure the voltage drop. The chat gives you the current being drawn for a given voltage drop and a given fuse rating. In this way you can quickly go over both fuse boxes and see where the current drain is.

GilbertD will be able to confirm, but the only drains you should see, and those minimal, are for the BeCM and the radio permanent live, and (maybe) for the key unlock receiver (for want of a better term).

Is that the current going to the starter at idle? Major issue! However, if it is -30A as the meter tends to indicate, is it in fact the charge current going back into the battery? I don’t know about the diesel, but the V8 has a wire from the alternator to the starter, using the starter cable to link the alternator to the battery (why? Oh for god’s sake why?) on some of the early vehicles. Later ones seem to have been modified to take the alternator output directly to the battery.

Studs with brass nuts. Never had an issue getting them undone.

Most of our insurers here will give you a free windscreen per year, no deductible and no loss of NCB.

You can stop the crack spreading by drilling a tiny hole (say 1mm) at the end of the crack. Might save you having to worry about it until the weather is better.

In terms of catching a loss of coolant, I have an alarm fitted, which is bolted to the cylinder head. It gives a constant read out and you can set the alarm to sound at whatever temp you like. Unlike a sensor in the coolant, which will drop if you have coolant loss, the cylinder head temperature increases, so you get a warning pretty quick. Comparing this sensor to the water temp sensor, they are usually within a couple of degrees.

Engine Guard

The $10 alternative. It might be worth considering.

Coolant level switch

Century are the premier battery manufacturers in Australia (in my opinion). This is from their site, some interesting comments. FYI:

Century FAQ

Guys, does anyone know who make the original (OEM) VCU for the cooling fan? I have one available that is supposed to be Borg Warner. BW stuff is good, but is it OEM?

I use an old LAN cable withe the plug cut off.

My only comment would be to look at offsetting it to one side or the other to improve your rear vision. Great work though!

As for the winding road, up hill and down dale, just drop it into third and leave it there. It is also a good move when driving around town.

Is there a posability that the Nano is wrong? I have found dramatically different readings using different tools. For instance LTFT currently on mine, Nano shows at -37.5% whereas another tool shows -11.7%.

Although not strictly to the point, in the BeCM module, Nano shows the Police spec selected and that the vehicle has no cruise control fitted. The RSW software shows no Police selected and a cruise is fitted which is correct for this truck.

Top trim is a little bit of a process to remove.

Remove the side trims (against the doors).
DO NOT pull the top trim off!
If you pry gently yo will see it is held on with sliding clips which you need to slide about 1/2" to the left.
The book says to use a credit card, but no way will that work with a truck that has been in the wild for a number of years.
I used a small steel paint scraper directly onto the clip, and even then some heeded a gentle tap with a very small hammer.

All came undone with no issues. Once apart it is obvious how it works, and quite ingenious. The bottom trim would have been much better made this way.

I probably shouldn’t say this, but mine never moves from the fill line on the coolant tank, month after month ..... unless I play with the cooling system, in which case out take a day or so to stabilise and then never changes.

When mine got to that stage I bought a S/H diff from a local wrecker with a “guarantee” that I could swap it for another if it wasn’t up to snuff. Replaced mine with it, very simple to do, no more whine.

I don’t know, it isn’t something you really check that often. Was it a cracked blade or maybe the outer “ring” was cracked. All I know is that after 23 years, it decided it had had enough. But the bang was huge, the under bonnet carnage extraordinary, 10 days on I am still finding pieces of fan in and around the engine bay, cassis, body corners etc.

I’m going to guess a diff, probably pinion bearing.