rangerovers.pub
The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
Member
offline
318 posts

If you mean the binnacle unit itself, then it is a 5 minute job. Remove the kick panel, remove the binnacle surround, remove the four screws holding the binnacle, unplug the connectors, out. DO NOT turn on the ignition without the connectors plugged in.

LHF hub and bearing. Finally got tired of the squeak I have been putting up with for two years.

The one on the RHS rear of the rail is a small accumulator, it is there to reduce injector knock. The unit on the LHS rear of the rail is the fuel pressure regulator.

The ECU cycles the pump when the ignition is turned on for two to five seconds, depending on the ECU build (one way to tell the difference, and no I don't have a chart of the time vs ECU :) ). It will then come on when cranking and running. Cycling the key will only turn it on first time, until the ECU re-sets, which, as noted is 20 seconds.

That is exactly what I use in my rebreather. It will change colour to a blue green when it is no longer active. At that time, change it, take the old material, spread it on an oven tray and put it in a normal oven for about an hour on 100C. It will come out orange and ready to go again. Short of damage to the spheres of silica gel, you can recycle it forever.

NOTE - DO NOT try to short cut the regen process by using a microwave, as the stuff will explode. The water vaporises very quickly and the spheres will explode from internal pressure.

From memory you have to leave the ignition off for more than 20 seconds so the ECU resets before the pump will run again.

Tom,

This might be helpful. Download what you need so you have it.

RAVE

I don’t know the cost, but you buy this stuff as a kit and it certainly looks easier than mucking about with solid lines. Have a look here from the 12:00 minute mark.

watch from 12:00

The desiccant is silica gel. Go online and search for it. It is cheap and easy to find, you buy it “by the pound” for a few dollars. However, get the stuff that is in little spheres, it maintains its integrity a lot better. Also if you get the orange stuff, it changes colour to green when it is “moist”. If you find it has changed colour, take it out, spread it out on an oven tray and put it in the oven at 100 degrees for an hour or so and then reuse. Given it is so cheap though, you could change it in your dryer every 3 months for a few shecklels and never have the dust ingress issue. Of course I’m assuming you have bought a few hundred grams or a kilo on line somewhere.

I dive a rebreather and the CO2 sensor is moisture critical, so any moisture from your breath plays with it, so you use a silica gel filter in front of the sensor to ensure the air passing over the sensor is at 0% moisture.

Thanks David. Does it loop around then? I note when looking at it with the motor out that there is a cable on either side of the drive gear. Does it drive both sides of the sunroof or only the one side?

A question for the knowledgeable. I think I might be getting to the stage of needing a new sunroof cable. EYG 100200 is the part number.

Now the question. Are there two cables or one? Is EYG 100200 all I need, or do I need two of them? Or indeed if there are two cables, does EYG 100200 come as a pair.

Some guidance from those that have done the job please. Plenty of parts photos on the net, but no answers to this question.

Black Box sell a 90 degree cable for the Nano.

Removed the sunroof motor and replaced with a S/H unit that was working OK and NOT jumping the cables. Cleaned and siliconed the slides, set the closed heights.

Replaced a globe in the window switch pack.

Inverted the bonnet struts so they are the right way around!

I used the 577 and is works well. It remains soft so fills all the imperfections.

Try a carbon fibre SCUBA tank. Nice and light, good to 3,000 PSI so 150 PSI will never worry it, never corrode, various sizes available.

12.6V is a fully charged battery.

We call it character. Enjoy!

Mine does the same if I let the wheel spin back quickly. If I unwind the lock normally it doesn’t. Never bothered me, the stalk is heavy and has a fir bit of momentum if moving quickly.

I do find it handy at roundabouts though, indicate right, go around, let the wheel spin back and it is already indicating left to come out. Design idea way ahead of its time!

Bought one for the spares bin as soon as I saw your post.

….. or the volumetric sensor for the alarm. I believe that an also cause isssues.