Here are a couple of great tools in the never ending chase for current drain. If you look at the back of a fuse you will see the pins are exposed (or should be) at the top, flush with the top of the fuse. You take a volt meter (digital is best) and set it to mV. Put the probes on the top of each pin and see what the reading is (if any) i.e. the voltage drop across the fuse. These charts give you the current drain at that fuse in mA for each fuse size. The beauty of this is that after letting the BeCM go to sleep, you can check all of the vehicle fuses and circuits for current drain in a couple of minutes.
Did you remove the jumper harness on the BeCM end that gets put in with a swap to springs?
I used a neodymium magnet on the screwdriver shaft.
No doubt you will repaint the truck to match the grille :)
Interesting. Mine had the pulsing lights issue a while ago, for a few months. Now the issue has disappeared. Nothing has been touched. Running voltage is stable at 13.7V. I’ll need to find a digital oscilloscope and look at the output wave form and see if it has an AC fluctuation.
There are two? I thought it was one unit with two sets of contacts and three wires...
Not that I've had chance to look, yet.
There are two switches. One controls the brake lights and kills the cruise, the other kills the vacuum in the cruise system. They sit opposite each other (assuming you have an auto).
XKB000010 brake light switch
ERR2622 cruise control switch.
Best to do both whilst you are in there.
Yep, GSP is a rip off. I buy a lot of all sorts of bits from the UK. The difference in Old Mate dropping it in the mail for £10 or GSP at £50 for the same item. Out of the US it is absolutely ridiculous! Trying to buy a single page illustration, as 1 x A$(ish) sized sheet and GSP is $76!!!
I just asked my local dealer's part department. Gave him the VIN and he gave me the code.
Let us know how you get on.
Speaking of fuel flap releases (and not wanting to hijack the thread) I have seen reference to a “cable” that allows you to manually release the door. The cable located behind the RHS tail light access panel. Is this an after market thing, or after a particular MY? Asking as I don’t see anything there that would answer that description on mine.
Did you check out the guys I mentioned in post 34?
I can lend you one to get you out of a hole.
+1 on Gilbertd’s recommendation too, I have bought a few things from him, good to deal with.
Loctite any day of the week.
I got a new coil pack complete from the UK, a lot less expensive than trying to deal locally. I think it came from LRSeries.co.uk £53 + postage.
Just a thought, and I know you have had the engine to bits, but what are the engine mounts like? I have had the issue in the past, with an old series LR where a dodgy engine mount allowed enough flex under load for the fan to clip the fan shroud. New engine mounts, no more chirping under load.
All good then, many thanks.
Of course the point may have originally been around H&S for dim owners, i.e. less likely to burn themselves if the engine is cold. Just a thought.
If it is a GEMS, perhaps looking for a couple of S/H ones as I understand the replacement ones, all from China, aren't all that good. I picked up a couple of S/H ones from a wrecker in Geelong, swapped them in and out to find that I they work OK, so they can sit on the spares shelf.
I see the Britpart one has a two year warranty as opposed the the OE, one year. I’d be tempted by the OE part though.