A question for the knowledgeable. I think I might be getting to the stage of needing a new sunroof cable. EYG 100200 is the part number.
Now the question. Are there two cables or one? Is EYG 100200 all I need, or do I need two of them? Or indeed if there are two cables, does EYG 100200 come as a pair.
Some guidance from those that have done the job please. Plenty of parts photos on the net, but no answers to this question.
…. But it seems it can. Apparently it has been running happily for 10 years like it.
Guys, planning to do a fluid swap and general maintenance bleed on the brakes soon and replace the accumulator for good measure. This will be the first time I've played with the system, I understand to follow the RAVE instructions to the letter so no issues there.
Looking at the modulator bleed screw locations, it seems to me that the easiest way to get to them particularly the long one at the back, would be to shift the coolant tank out of the way. Reasonable?
What are people's experiences for the calipers? Wheels off and the vehicle on stands, or as easy crawling underneath, wheels on?
Guys, does anyone know who make the original (OEM) VCU for the cooling fan? I have one available that is supposed to be Borg Warner. BW stuff is good, but is it OEM?
So, there may already be something on this somewhere, so happy for this to get deleted, but I thought I'd relate something I found interesting in the hope it might help someone else.
My truck has never lost sync. Unlike some people's who seem to go through the issue regularly.
When I say never has ..... what I mean is hadn't until last night. Jump in, hit the key, nothing. Check it is in park, still nothing. Cycle the gears to check the XYZ, still nothing, then I noticed no CEL. Ah! loss of sync. cycle the key a few times, CEL back on, starts up and off I go.
I was pondering later, why, after two years of trouble free starting, would this have happened. What did I do different. So here it is for what it is worth.
I have an aux socket in the back. When I wired it in I took the feed directly off the under seat fuse box live feed. This feed, I assume, is where the BeCM gets is power from. So what did I do different? I plugged in a compressor driven fridge to the aux socket just before I went to start the truck.
Did the consequent lowering of voltage at this feed point interfere with the BeCM and its communication with the ECU?
Are the loss of sync issues come people have due to a poor connection between the under bonnet supply and the BeCM supply, resulting in a dip in voltage when you turn on the key?
No idea, but I thought I'd throw it out there.
Of course my experience might be totally unrelated at all, but .......
Whilst ferreting under the dash today, I found this connector, all alone and floating free. It is the male end and was sitting on the plastic cable tray, driver’s side (RHS). It is the male end, I.e. plug. It has a yellow and a black wire going to it. The yellow, with considerable imagination, could possibly have a black tracer, but you would have to use your imagination to se it.
I couldn’t find a socket anywhere. The tail I found disappears into the afore mentioned cable tray.
I have been through the 97/98 ETSM several times and can’t find a two pin connector that has Y & B wires going to it, save for a couple that are plugged into a diesel in the engine bay.
1997, 98MY 4.6 V8 HSE.
Just seeing who is within gunshot of me. Lower North Shore. My thought is if we had a few of us we could perhaps organise a small gathering to look over the various pieces of machinery and relate issues and fixes etc. Perhaps even a bit of horse trading for unwanted or unloved parts.
Am I right in assuming that Tornado Systems is no longer operating? I have called numerous times, left 5 messages on their answering service, sent 4 emails in as many weeks and ....... crickets.
I certainly wouldn’t be purchasing anything off their web site as I doubt you will ever see it.
My spares truck has “working” EAS it the extent that when the truck is being driven all is good. When you park it up for the night you come back to it next morning and the rear has risen to off road height plus ... and the front sunk to access mode and sometime it has also risen to off road height..
I haven’t got time to look at sorting it at the moment, that will be a Christmas job. However, I know you can swap out the timer relay to stop the auto leveling function from working when parked up.
My question is, looking at the timer relay, it is a 5 pin base with the additional pin for the timer. If I replace it with a standard 5 pin relay (like a green one from under the bonnet type) am I looking for a 5 pin resistor type or 5 pin non resistor type?
Answers on a post card from those that know please.
Guys, can anyone advise on the hex size for the starter bolts? Looking at them I'd say 8mm or 10mm but as I need to buy a hex socket, I thought I'd ask ......
A quick question regarding IAT. Hooking up my Nano an going through the various screens I see there are two showing IAT. One is under the Instruments page and the other under the GEMS ECU page.
The instrument page always shows the IAT to be somewhere around what you might expect to see (eg it was about 16 outside, engine running and the IAT was about 20, given the warmth of the engine bay, rising to 30 when engine off for a few minutes), whereas the ECU page always shows the IAT at very minimal levels (same day it was -2, which I can assure you it never gets to in Sydney).
I’m not concerned at this point as to the accuracy of the reading, but more the difference shown, using the Nano, which must (does it) get its base information from the IAT sensor. Anyone else get this sort of thing on this or other Nano menus?
I know the Nano is straight out wrong on certain sections (says mine is a 4.0 manual, whereas a proper test book shows 4.6 auto, nano shows UK police setting selected whereas test book shown non police) but I was interested in this difference. I’m off to send a note to the Nano guys and see if I get a response.
I got a phone call from a mechanic who does some work for me from time to time, asking if I needed any spare parts. Anyway, the long and the short of it is that I drove the spare parts home, complete with a 12 month MOT (as you guys in the UK would understand it), everything working except the cruise, even the EAS works fine. Cost, (as is typical in this country) a case of beer. Paintwork is shot from sitting in the sun, but nice and straight, interior is good and complete.
Forgive me .... but also posted on the "Dark Side" :)
My 1997 (98MY) 4.6 GEMS has always run like a Swiss watch. Last Friday, 38 degrees (100F) outside, go for a run, pull up and all of a sudden she has this rattle at idle. It is worse when in gear as opposed to in neutral. It really isn't a tick, more a clack and sounds for all the world like it is coming from the LH Cat.
I have had the screwdriver to the ear as can report there is definitely a solid "tick" coming from the cat, and can follow this up to the manifold, where it is also audible, maybe as loud, maybe not.
Now, it goes away over say 1000 RPM. It isn't always there. When it is, it is LOUD. Sometimes it might not be there at cold start, and then again it might not. Sometimes when hot and the oil is thin, but sometimes not. It sounds for all the world like a dodgy lifter, but using a stethoscope on the rocker covers, well they are quiet, whether the noise if present or not. I can't detect anything by putting the stethoscope on the head either.
So the noise .... it sounds mechanical, it seems to be coming from the LH cat. It is regular, like it is associated with a single cylinder, a regular clack, clack, clack as I said like a lifter.
So at the moment I'm lost.
I'm not sure it is mechanical.
Points for consideration. Temp is rock solid, mid gauge and always is, only ever drops on a long downhill run, water level never moves, on the mid seam mark of the expansion bottle hot or cold, no oil consumption, oil nice and clean, no blow by and no evidence of water contamination in the oil, i.e. the oil filler cap is dry and clean, 140k km 90k miles. Never had a noise of any sort until a couple of days ago.
Looking at the parts book I see that there is a single part number for fuel injectors for all P38 models, regardless of GEMS or Bosch. ERR6600. However I note on other sources these broken down into early (ERR722 for GEMS) and late (ERR6600 for Bosch).
My question is, are they in fact interchangeable? Do I take the parts book at face value, or should I find ERR722 for my GEMS and not grab the ERR6600 which is more readily available.