Here are a couple of great tools in the never ending chase for current drain. If you look at the back of a fuse you will see the pins are exposed (or should be) at the top, flush with the top of the fuse. You take a volt meter (digital is best) and set it to mV. Put the probes on the top of each pin and see what the reading is (if any) i.e. the voltage drop across the fuse. These charts give you the current drain at that fuse in mA for each fuse size. The beauty of this is that after letting the BeCM go to sleep, you can check all of the vehicle fuses and circuits for current drain in a couple of minutes.
Might be the grommet that blanks off the outside temp sensor on the LHS. Up to 98MY the sensor was in the LH heater air intake, after that it was under the bumper as you know. Depending on when in 1998 your was built, it might be, as noted, the blanking plug for hole where the sensor was fitted.
Just a thought.
This might be of interest for a start.
You could try Sport mode or perhaps try resetting the adaptive values and let it start learning how you drive again.
Guys, if you really want to know about auto transmissions and the damage you can do to them, have a look at this resource. It is the best I have ever seen on auto transmissions and there are hours of watching. It is Richard's disassembly videos you need to look at.
Gilbertd wrote:
Everything works too except for the rear washer which clogs up within a couple of days of pulling it out and flushing the pipe through for the umpteenth time.
I found that with mine, always the LHS front one and for no reason I could find. Clean it out and blocked within a couple of days. New nozzle, all good, and blocked within a couple of days again. I eventually put on new pipe work and no more problems, so I can only assume the old pipe work on that side was falling apart from the inside out.
You can set the temp that the light comes on with a Nano.
Mine runs around 90 (about a needle width above mid gauge) and the warning light is set to come on at 98. Boiling point with coolant is about 125 with a 14 pound cap.
I wonder about the police setting. I have a standard Australian delivered P38, which Nano says is UK police enabled, which of course it could never have been a police vehicle. Looking at the BECM with RSW tool though, it says it is not enabled, so I don’t know. I have never tried to change it of course.
I took mine from min to max the other day, 200 ml.
Morat wrote:
There are two? I thought it was one unit with two sets of contacts and three wires...
Not that I've had chance to look, yet.
There are two switches. One controls the brake lights and kills the cruise, the other kills the vacuum in the cruise system. They sit opposite each other (assuming you have an auto).
XKB000010 brake light switch
ERR2622 cruise control switch.
Best to do both whilst you are in there.
Replace both.
One of the issues you often find with people converting to coils is the .... "I swapped to coils, 2" lift, HD rears and gas shocks" as opposed to standard height and correct shocks.
Mine now has standard height coils and shocks. I find is rides well and handles fine, for the barge it is. It is certainly a lot better than the usual ride you get from a classic on standard coils and shocks.
Oh, and the only time I have come down in the morning to find a corner hanging down ..... was when I had a tyre go flat overnight ..... just sayin.
Hmmmm .... today ..... new injectors, new coil, new spark plugs, new O2 sensors, new rear shocks, oil change, wheels off, greased the centers and the wheel nut threads, re-set the adaptive values, short run to confirm all is well. Two people, 10 hours with plenty of grog and food during the day.
Interesting. Mine had the pulsing lights issue a while ago, for a few months. Now the issue has disappeared. Nothing has been touched. Running voltage is stable at 13.7V. I’ll need to find a digital oscilloscope and look at the output wave form and see if it has an AC fluctuation.
Makes complete sense to have an electric van, especially as 70% of Ireland’s electricity come from fossil fuel. Much more efficient to burn it once rather then to burn it, turn it, transform it, transmit it, transform it again, plug it, transform it again, charge it and THEN use it.
There is a break point. Early vehicles had different handles on each side (ALR8126 RH and ALR8127 LH). Later vehicles use the same handles on both sides (ASR2316). The break point is VIN VA350716 which dates it to vehicles built from mid September 1996.
Seems to be only at idle almost as though it was related to oil pressure. Then again today, it wasn't evident at all, no noise, sweet as a nut.
I'm sure something will show up at some stage, when it does, or more clues, I'll advise.
Forgive me .... but also posted on the "Dark Side" :)
My 1997 (98MY) 4.6 GEMS has always run like a Swiss watch. Last Friday, 38 degrees (100F) outside, go for a run, pull up and all of a sudden she has this rattle at idle. It is worse when in gear as opposed to in neutral. It really isn't a tick, more a clack and sounds for all the world like it is coming from the LH Cat.
I have had the screwdriver to the ear as can report there is definitely a solid "tick" coming from the cat, and can follow this up to the manifold, where it is also audible, maybe as loud, maybe not.
Now, it goes away over say 1000 RPM. It isn't always there. When it is, it is LOUD. Sometimes it might not be there at cold start, and then again it might not. Sometimes when hot and the oil is thin, but sometimes not. It sounds for all the world like a dodgy lifter, but using a stethoscope on the rocker covers, well they are quiet, whether the noise if present or not. I can't detect anything by putting the stethoscope on the head either.
So the noise .... it sounds mechanical, it seems to be coming from the LH cat. It is regular, like it is associated with a single cylinder, a regular clack, clack, clack as I said like a lifter.
So at the moment I'm lost.
I'm not sure it is mechanical.
Points for consideration. Temp is rock solid, mid gauge and always is, only ever drops on a long downhill run, water level never moves, on the mid seam mark of the expansion bottle hot or cold, no oil consumption, oil nice and clean, no blow by and no evidence of water contamination in the oil, i.e. the oil filler cap is dry and clean, 140k km 90k miles. Never had a noise of any sort until a couple of days ago.
There is some good information on that site.