Guys, on a similar note, I understand that Nanocom may also confuse ride height settings from side to side or front to back. Does anyone have any information on this or am I mistaken?
If the ECU and BECM are not synced, then there is no check engine light and no start. You will need a Nanocom to connect to the ECU and select utilities and security learn. In that way the next code the ECU sees from the BECM, regardless of what it is, it accepts as valid. That will then re-sync the two.
Aragorn wrote:
you can sometimes tell by simply jacking it and spinning each wheel and seeing how it sounds. Especially if you compare side to side you might notice one feels or sounds rougher. however due to drag on the brakes and depending on how worn the bearing is etc its not always foolproof.
I dont think there are any bearings in the outer end of the front axle case? there is a plain section of shaft that runs in the oil seal, and otherwise its supported by the CV joint/wheel bearing itself.
Assuming of course you have removed the prop shafts or lift a complete axle at a time. The VCU might have something to say about “spinning each wheel”! :)
When you turn on the key, the pump should run for about 3 seconds to pressurise the system./ Try turning it on and waiting a few seconds before cranking.
Well done you!
Set of plugs and Magnacor leads.
I have printed a couple of dave3d's ones, they work well. The only note is that you potentially have a lot of weight hanging on the little plastic ledge. But happy with the result.
I might just take you up on that Craig. I fancy a rebuild project. I has been a long time since I have been elbows deep rebuilding a Rover V8 (as opposed to a traction engine, now finished!).
I got given a running P38, two years later my brother is still using it as a daily driver.
You can only ask, but generally the rule is there is no warranty on warranty. i.e. if it is 12 months and something is replaced under warranty in that 12 months, then the clock doesn't start again.
Mind you, if you are in Australia then it would definitely be worth trying as an item has to be fit for purpose and perform and last as your average person in the street would expect. Repair, Replace, Refund.
I’d have thought that was a lot of money for a boat anchor.
Different cam sensor hole dimension? Also was there a change to metric threads with the Thor, i.e. the cam sensor plate bolt and some WP bolts will need to be replaced?
In addition, as the accumulator gets tired, it takes more fluid to compress the balloon inside.
Sounds like a fuel flow issue to me. In tank pump or fuel filter.
The manual and auto boxes are basically identical in ratio. So M5 = A4 and M4 = A3. In my auto, 2500 RPM = 110 kph (70 mph) with the TC locked. Your manual would be doing the same. so 30 mph in 5th would be 3/7 x 2500. 30 mph in 4th would be 3/7 x 4.3/3.15 x 2500.
In theory they shouldn’t run without a MAF. The engine should start, run up to 500 rpm and then stop.
Hi Bolt, yes, the bar graph went to max as well, so as Sloth says, I might start with the rotary switch contacts.
So, up early, leaving home at 5:30 to be somewhere else by 7:00. Lovely morning, cruising up the freeway, AC off but the blowers on about three squares, just to circulate a little air. Suddenly, about 45 minutes in, the blowers, of their own volition, crank up to High. I turn the knob down, back to three squares, the blowers obey, and we are all good for the rest of the day!
Thoughts?