I managed to find a new one for my MY98 a couple of years back. I grabbed it. Needless to say it is still sitting in its box on the shelf!

A word of warning. I managed to find a "good S/H one" with the "correct" part number off a US site. It wasn't a bad price, so I bought it on spec. When it arrived it was in OK shape, but the part number was incorrect as evidenced by the tag on it. I go hold of them and said .... you said .... right part number ... wrong part number supplied ... attached photo of part number sticker etc. etc.

No worries, we have the right one in stock, we will re-send. New one arrives ... complete, but the part number sticker has been removed, recently as the area where it should be was nice and shiny, and a little scratched from the razor blade.

It is not straight forward. You need to grab your Nano and set it to 100 in the BeCM. You can then turn it off on the column controls from memory.

The safest way to test it is to do what we do with SCUBA tanks and boilers, and hydraulic it. Completely filled with water, no air at all. Then you add a little more water under pressure until the desired test pressure is reached (in our case about 5,000 PSI for a SCUBA tank). In the case of a SCUBA tank, you only need a few ml of water over completely full to shoot the pressure from 0 - 5,000. In the case of an airbag, which can stretch, you will need more than that. The advantage is, if it lets go, there is a spray of water, that's it. Do it on the bench in front of you. The worst that will happen it you get wet if there is a catastrophic failure.

Drying it out inside after, well I'll leave that to you .....

Oh! SUSPENSION air bag, got it!

Bumper removal is 10 mins max, 5 on a good day. Helps to have an extra set of hands for the weight though.

I fitted a cheap and nasty eBay special (about £70 delivered) around 3 years ago. Still works perfectly.

I took the original, which was full of oil and had shot brushes, got a set of brushes for it, refurbed it and fitted it to RR #2 where it has been doing sterling service for the past 3 years as well.

Gilbertd wrote:

RHD diver's ones are available at around half the price of a P38 latch from https://www.ukmgparts.com/product/mgf-mgf14-exterior-bodyshell-panels/door-lock-rh-mgf-tf-rhd-fqj102262pma.

I bought one and put into stock, as I know that come the time I need one, they will be akin to hens' teeth

Soo for the second time in 4 years the old girl stopped on the road. Like last time she had the good grace to do it within a couple of km of home (having just got back from a 1,000 mile trip earlier in the week). Going over a bridge, I instantly knew there was something wrong. All of a sudden, down to 6 cylinders. Right, turn around and head home. Got about 400 yards, all goes quiet. Bumped her into neutral and coasted to a halt in a roadside car park (as opposed to being stuck in a lane on one of Sydney’s busiest roads).

Cycled the ignition and noticed the check engine light wasn’t on, so no point in trying to start it. Had a look in the fuse box and found the fuse for the ECU blown.

Grabbed the phone and called Richard in the UK as a helpful, and quickest source of info as to what might be going on. Seems that the same fuse feeds the ignition coils. OK, replaced it, hit the key, she started right up, ran for perhaps 2 seconds and died again. Blown fuse again. Tried again, same result. OK, time to call a tow truck (at 6 AM).

Got her home, unloaded her, got my meter that I have set up to plug straight into a fuse socket to check the power draw. Sitting at less than an amp. OK let’s hit the key, this should be fun. Nope, power draw sitting at 1.3 amps and truck running, albeit on 6 cylinders.

So, a shift to the garage whilst things are running and out with the IR heat gun. All manifolds at 350+ degrees, with the exception of 4 & 7 which are at about 120. So that is where our miss is coming from. As one coil pack drives these two cylinders, clearly a failed coil pack. Looking through this with Richard, it was concluded that they normally fail open circuit, not short circuit, so why the continual blowing of fuses (when the engine was hot, but not cold) is still a bit of a mystery.

So coil pack off, replaced with a known good genuine s/h set and off we go, good as new.

On close inspection, the coil for 4/7 was “blown”. The plastic covering had expanded and distorted, so may have been going for some time.

For those with an interest, I checked the resistance of the various packs and found that the three good ones were at 1.8 ohm, whereas the blown one was at 0.8 ohm (cold).

From a dealer perspective, when these cars were new, 6 weeks was seen as the maximum time that you could go and still have power to start. That is new truck and new battery. Second hand cars 4 weeks.

Rear welsh plug.

It might be useful if you explain and state the facts.

What have you built?
What was the base engine?
What engine management system?
Which injectors?
On petrol or lpg?
What style of ignition?
What type of fuel pump and pressure regulator?
Engine management ancillaries new or second hand?

Forgive me, but your original question is like ... I washed my clothes and they won't dry, why?

So.... the fan is an inspirator. It draws in air and has a little thermocouple behind it to measure the cabin temperature, which then feeds to the HEVAC. So if you set the cabin temp to 20 degrees, the HEVAC uses the inspirator to determine what the cabin temp and if it needs to heat or cool the cabin.

They typically fill up with dirt and fluff and cease to function if not maintained properly. You can try using a vacuum cleaner on the outside to remove the material (which will be there). If not then it is a disassemble the centre console and clean it out. You can get heavy handed and separate the little tray/grille, do the job and then glue the tray back into place with some good epoxy.

JTF000030

Do and eBay search on Clear My Shed Wales.

From memory it is for an oil cooler of some sort.

If I remember correctly, Transmission Fault can also be caused by low system voltage, i.e. a bad battery or alternator.

The LCD display is backlit by three ordinary globes. When it goes dark, or partially so, one or more of the globes has ceased to function. In your case, clearly not blown, so I think you are looking for a dodgy connection. Might be worth removing the surround and unplugging it and giving the pins both sides a squirt with contact cleaner. If you feel so inclined, pul it out and replace the display globes, h leaning their contact tracks at the same time.

Surely, in a manual, if 20MPH = 1,100 RPM, then 30MPH must be 1,650 RPM not 1,500 RPM, as there is a direct physical link, so the revs used to travel your 20 miles are the same regardless if you do it at 20MPH to 120MPH. If changing to 5th gear, different story.

Check the end of your dip stick for witness marks. Give it a curve so it bends towards the outer edge of the sump. I’m not saying it is your issue, but I have seen in the past a noise no one could find that was finally tracked down to a crankshaft balance weight brushing the end of the dip stick.

So a couple of weeks ago we fitted springs to P38 #2, the 1996 one I was given for free for parts. The truck was a runner and has been my brother’s daily driver for the last two years. Not bad for a freebie for parts.

It lives 300 miles from me on the far south coast of NSW and the maintenance work falls to me. As you can appreciate, hardly handy.

We have sorted the air suspension out a number of times, and it was functional, but the gaps between functioning and issues was getting shorter and shorter. Finally, after it decided to sit on its bump stops, and no amount of coaxing would get it sorted, we decided to put it on springs.

Interestingly, Nano was no help at all, and the only fault it listed was ….. unspecified fault. Thanks Nano, I know it has a fault, be nice if you told me what!

Terrafirma package fitted, easy job, truck looks good, rides well. Brother is happy. Next job will be to replace the bump stops which have been pounded to dust from all of the miles on them!

Well done! Was this a twin to start with? These seem to have fitted up nicely.