Yes, the sub with the amp bolted to the back was the latest version of the system, and I believe fitted to the vehicle's with the 'premium' DSP sound system.

That being said, I do remember my first '95 P38 with the single woofer sub unit... and it was still powerful enough with only the one driver in it to make things shake a bit when turned all the way up :)

Sadly my amplifier unit that was bolted to the sub drivers was toasted on one channel when I got it, so I haven't heard it in it's fully glory... but the dual woofer with external amp that I have now has plenty of punch in it, from when I tested it with a line level booster unit...

Not sure if the actual speakers are the same as what's in the doors...

I think part of the reason you often get a 'meh' response from the factory subwoofer with an aftermarket head unit (I get the same in mine, and it's the dual woofer version - originally with a massive amp bolted to the back of the subwoofer speakers!) is because the RR sound system uses a balanced audio signal from the head unit to the amplifiers, which also helps in reducing any line noise in from wiring/earthing issues - whereas pretty much all aftermarket head units with RCA/Phono/whatever you all them outputs for subwoofer channels are all unbalanced outputs... I.E. one of the wires is tied to ground, and (from memory - it's awhile since I looked into it... my day job is making stuff go brighter, not louder!!) you basically get half the signal going through - and having the -ve tied to ground (rather than the other half of the balanced signal, as in the factory setup) gives you more chances of hums, whines, and not as good signal level into the amplifier to start with.

I bet if you put a balanced audio signal into the subwoofer unit, then it would perform a lot better... the problem is getting a head unit which outputs a balanced signal!

The factory sub (when working) does the job pretty well, and goes plenty loud enough!

I seem to remember somewhere on the other site there was a thread on the subwoofer speakers, and someone posted up some near drop-in replacements for the factory woofers.

I think the main reason they went for 2 smaller woofers (well in the later units - I'm sure the early ones only had one woofer in the box) partly is because the response time is quicker than a single bigger speaker cone.

That being said, I'm sure again on the other site I've seen other installs of a single 10" woofer in where the factory one sits. You could probably get away with using the same factory amplifier if the impedence is the same

Key in the ignition does NOTHING other than 'friendly sync' the key if the vehicle is disarmed and able to start.

If the vehicle was locked before with the FOB then you will need to enter the EKA code, yes. It will also revert the the last state when power is reconnected... IE locked and alarmed. If you have the key in the ignition, pos II and then reconnect the battery with the doors closed, then you will only end up locking the key in the car in the ignition.

Best thing to do... Keep the key on you, reconnect the battery and then get the EKA entered. On later vehicles (like you have now) you can put the EKA in through the OBD system on the likes of a Nanocom aswell as the normal method of in the drivers door.

What makes you think the BECM has been changed?

riddlemethis wrote:

ELM arrived today and I'm quite surprised the only fault code I have is P0154 o2 sensor circuit no activity detected ( bank 2 sensor 1)

Hopefully that will explain my slightly erratic idle.

More than likely - have a look at my thread on here regarding O2 sensors and how much it affected the running of my RR at idle!!

SpiggyTopes wrote:

I bought new front and rear diffs a year ago from Ashcroft and they supplied 4 pin rear and 2 pin front.

I queried why the front was not 4 pin and they didn't know, and only supplied 2 pin for all P38s.

HTH, probably not!

That's really weird! I was sure on their website there was an option to uprate the front to 4 pin for an extra cost! Maybe they've stopped doing it now!

Good stuff!

I think Grrrrr from landyzone/rr.net is going to pop past on the Sunday for the day to say hello aswell. Haven't heard anything more from the others who were interested, and haven't even mentioned it on rr.net yet... Not sure if I will either to be honest!!

Hopefully I can spend a bit of time finalising things in awhile whist I'm out here in China. the last week has been crazy - and I think the next one will be too!

I got bitten aswell - but not by parts, but information...

I'd done a fair bit or work mapping out all the main components on the BECM power boards and had a PM over there with a few questions and along the lines of having a mate who works at LRNA and had information to some more things on BECM's and all that. I ended up sending my research over, with the promise of being sent the information found out from this 'mate' - sharing is caring and all that.

Funnily enough, never had a response - and when I emailed (this was quite awhile ago now) to see if there was any of this magical info I got told something along the lines of not having heard from him, but will be in touch when he has etc. To this day, nothing more.

I am sure I read somewhere that he doesn't do RR stuff full time anymore and has a job working at Apple or something like that?

George B - I would send you bits, but I'm away and don't think I'm likely to have all the parts you actually need anymore as it's been awhile since I've had a vehicle about for parts!

I used an Airtex one on mine when I changed it last year, and it looked the part and seems to do the job!

You can get 4 pin centers with proper cut gears from Ashcroft Transmissions I think as an option when you buy a rebuilt diff..

The main difference between 2 pin and 4 pin is the diff center. the 2 pin has 2 gears inside the center, whereas the 4 pin has 4 gears - and thus supposed to be stronger as the power/loading on the differential is split across 4 gears internally instead of just 2.

Me Three

Generic OBD interface will work on the later Bosch Motronic vehicles, so something like an ELM327 unit with either PC software or Torque on a mobile device - and you will be able to see airflow readings, fuel trims etc.

Hi OldShep,

That's not a problem - just let us know when you can and I am sure that we will be able to accommodate you if you can make it!

I guess it depends on whether it was from Amazon directly or being sold by one of their market place traders or whatever they are called.

I've had a couple of items previously where I've bought them and then had to wait longer than Amazon reckoned, but it was because it was sold through one of their other sellers - but on the Amazon site.

Nice... and I'm guessing any parts that you aren't having from him, then they are probably on my list!!!

Definitely bring it to the camp - I'm sure we'll all be interesting in having a look and poking and prodding it!

OB, I'd almost go with a second hand genuine unit from breakers on eBay (or maybe Sloth has one from one of his old engines? They don't seem to go wrong too often - well, definitely not as often as the Bosch ones do!

Typical! If it sounds too good to be true, then it probably is!

To be fair, ABS sensors are about the one thing you can get aftermarket versions of and they'll usually work. Though a mate of mine bought his P38 which had new sensors all round and they didn't work fully - he pilled one out and found it was a tiny bit shorter in length than the original P38 ones, and thus wasn't giving a proper signal.... so maybe not the cheapest ones!

Sloth wrote:

I have one of the eBay unbranded ones and it is naff.

Is that a GEMS one or one for your Thor?
I can imagine anything cheap chinese GEMS or Thor probably isn't great, but I would imagine that Bearmach or Allmakes are probably a bit better!

I don't think the GEMS vehicles are nearly as fussy with their MAF's as the Bosch versions are - so Bearmach/Allmakes are probably going to work fine!