Did the EAS kicker turn up?
eBay or a breaker are probably the best places for the delay timer relays, though they don't generally seem to fail.
Is yours missing?
I doubt a Snap On tool will talk to the BECM as it's pre-OBD specification and uses some proprietary Land Rover protocol.
Nanocom will be the best bet in the long-run as it should easily pay for itself!
As you have a later model one, then if the garage has some LR specific diagnostics, or someone you know who's nearby does, then you can enter the EKA via the OBD port (Only supported on vehicles with a software version later than V36 - which an '01 should be V39 or 40). On a Nanocom, there is a section in the BECM where you can 'disarm' it by putting the EKA in and then it should unlock it and get it running again.
The fact that you can't enter the EKA via the drivers door latch suggests that either the CDL or the Key microswitches are faulty, or there's a wiring problem between the latch and the outstation (sometimes the wires can get caught by the window regulator if they have been un-done before and not clipped back in properly.
I would download a copy of my door latch tests file, and check the switches in the door latch. If this is faulty then you won't be able to enter the EKA.
Do the mirrors/window work on the drivers door? If so then it pinpoints it back down to the latch. If the mirror/window doesn't work either, then it moves the problem more towards the power/ground or serial link to the outstation.
You won't be able to resync the remote either in the drivers door, or in the ignition barrel if the vehicle is alarmed, It needs to be in a disarmed state (EKA needs to be put in basically) before it will let you try and sync a remote up.
My suggestions...
See if you can get it hooked up on Diagnostics, so you can try and enter the EKA that way. If you can, and it unlocks/disarms, then the key should sync up in the ignition again. Then test the drivers door latch microswitches.
If you can't get it to disarm on diagnostics, or don't have access to ones that will let you, then test the door latch microswitches first, and the wiring inside the door. This will then give you an idea of what's going on in there and why it isn't accepting the EKA
Hope this helps,
Marty
I second the MF31-1000... as Orangebean says - I run one in my P38 aswell...
The say they are a 'calcium' battery, but I haven't noticed a problem with it charging in the P38 (I've got 2 fitted to mine - a MF31-750 and a -1000 hooked up on a split charge system. They've been in there for the past 4 years, and still going strong!
I'll happily take anything that you don't want to keep a hold of :)
My garage looks about the same as your garden probably does... engine parts, 3 complete sunroof units, 4 transfer cases, engine block, and more BECMs than you can poke a stick at.
Did manage to tidy the work bench up though, and have ran a ring main in the garage, extra breaker in the consumer unit, and managed to repair/test 6 window switchpacks, so hasn't been a bad couple of days! Just need to get a network cable run to the diagnostics PC, from the switch in the office, and then start looking at all the door latches I've got piling up again! Going to be a busy summer when I get back from work! Pity I can't take a load of it with me to work on!
Orangebean wrote:
Erotic idle?
dave3d wrote:I misread this post, I thought it said Eric Idle.
Is that where it's vibrating a bit more than it should? Mine does that at highway speed, and it's definitely not pleasurable! well, not for me anyway!!
I had a feeling that Arnott had changed their 'lifetime guarantee' policy to only be within the US? I'm sure I read something about it on the other forum where someone had a Gen III blow out and went to claim on the lifetime guarantee to be told they wouldn't replace it..
Whilst I'd like to try out a set of Gen III springs to see what the handling is like, I really couldn't justify the £800 price tag! I could get 3x sets of genuine Dunlops to do all 3 of my RR's for that money, and still have a bit left over afterwards!
EDIT - just had a look on the Arnott website and the Lifetime Warranty is North America, and European Union - outside of that and it's 2 years...
If they are going spare, then I am sure we can work a deal out... I've got plenty of space at the workshop to put them, and I can work on rebuilding them at some point with all this time I'm planning on having over summer!!
I only really got tempted with this one as a) it's the original engine from the R reg, and b) I was going down there to pick up a load of electrical bits, switchpacks, HEVACs, and the likes and I got tempted... haha..
If you are just going to bin either/both of your engines then I'm happy to give them a home in the workshop for sure!
Shiny!
Will have to look at getting it sent up there once I get back from tour... I head away in a couple of days for the first job, and then not back until the end of June - so will have to finish stripping it down and get it sent off when I return.
I was hoping it would be OK - and judging by the lip on your liners, it will be... fingers crossed I have enough money to get the GEMS one and a Thor one done to start with - then I can look at finally building up a replacement engine for my RR from the X-reg vogue I've got... One of my tasks in the summer is going to be to get it in the workshop and get the old engine out and stripped down aswell.
That's what I was worried about....
I figured it was worth a punt at the price, given that I got all the other bits included - so even if the block is junk, I've still got crank, 15 pistons, 2 heads, front cover and inlet manifold!
When I was looking down into the water jacket, it looks like there is about 10mm of metal there which is thicker around the top of the cylinder, which I wouldn't think top hats would machine in that deeply as even in 'normal' cases you would need to leave some metal behind!
I guess it will be a case of give a few places a call (I've had one place locally recommended, but failing that I'll be giving V8 Developments a call, or there's a machine shop up Coventry way that does them aswell) and see what the concensus is. It would all depend how deep that damage is and whether it has broken into the water jacket. It hasn't around the top/horizontally across - but would depend on how deep it is... which would not be visible until the old liner is removed and it can be inspected properly...
Hmm....
So...
Today I went off to buy/collect a whole load of bits from the guy I bought my project P38's off - got a couple of dash fascias, switchpacks, HEVAC controllers etc all to be pulled apart and overhauled... I also ended up buying most of a GEMS engine... which was apparently the original engine from my 'R' Reg. The problem... it's got a couple of liners which have damage around the top of them... Oh, and a piston missing...
I've attached a pic, but what's the thought on whether this thing would be fixable with (top hat liners obviously). I got the block as it is, a pair of heads, front cover, rocker covers, lower inlet manifold, and another set of 8 pistons/rods for £250 - so figured it was worth the punt, as if it is salvageable with top hats, then it will be nice to put the original engine back in it, and will mean I can build one up to just swap over.
He said that it wasn't using any water, but just had a knock on it. There's another cylinder up the front which is about the same, but I was more worried about this one as it's next to the water jacket.
Thoughts?
Marty
It's one of the reasons that I cut the stupid arm off of them that usually extends from the metal lever that the door handle rod connects to. With it on there, it just gets in the way, makes the job a whole lot fiddlier, and on top of that usually scratches up the inside of the door aswell!
Hope the latches are all OK for you!
Marty
Or when you are looking at it, move the single rod connecting the solenoid towards the right and it will pop the top half of the tailgate. Do it a second time, and it will pop the bottom half.
I had to do it on one of mine, over the weekend when I was replacing the upper tailgate and was trying to align in from inside!
The carpet piece can be a pain to take off though.
Either that or remove fuse F15 on the BECM and then feed 12V into it output of the fuse, and then ground the 12V source to the chassis (BECM ground point) and then with the drivers door unlocked you should be able to open the tailgate - as the solenoid is normally permanently powered via F15 - and grounds through the CDL of the drivers door - so putting 12V on the output of F15 will feed the things in that circuit - which happens to include the tailgate :)
Drop me your address and I'll send you my EAS Kicker, which will just plug in and reset a hard fault and should get it up and running again.
Just send it back when you're up and running again. If I send it out tomorrow, it will get to you on Monday.
In the mean time - have a look here: Manual Jumpering and you can probably use the method here to get some air into the system and into each air spring to get you off the bump stops until you can get the fault reset and normal operation resumed...
The problem (as I see it) isn't so much as being able to pay with CC - but the ability to receive CC payments. I use my CC at times via Paypal, for purchases on eBay (as then I get points on the CC...
To be able to receive CC payments, it has to go via a payment handler - the likes of Sage Pay, or another Merchant like that - which I'm pretty sure they all charge a transaction fee for aswell - so either way you get stung something!
It is something I am going to look at for the future - I've got a few months whilst I'm away for work to look into it all, and hopefully when I get back at the end of June, I can get things all back underway. Got a lot of things to try and get fixed and ready!
Will look into the CC side of things, as it will make my life a lot easier aswell... the only advantage for Paypal is that if someone buys something with a core charge, then it's nice and easy to refund the core charge once it old unit has been returned. And to be fair, Paypal refund the difference on the transaction fee when I process a refund - which is nice... eBay however, I don't think they refund me a difference in the final value fee.
Food for thought for sure!
Cheers,
Marty
Marty
Glad it's all done and working! - both O-rings and diagnostics :)
There is actually a guy up on the farm area with a workshop who does car spraying and the likes. He used to be in the workshop that myself and my mate now rent, and he's moved into a bigger place, so I guess business must be ticking over for him.
I was thinking also about trying to do my headliner - I have a headliner back (with sunroof) that I was going to re-trim and put in mine - but if there are enough of us, then again, maybe we could approach the places on the like of eBay that do the material/glue kits and see if they do a discount for a bulk roll of the fabric/ high temp adhesive?
I have a feeling that I also have a complete steering column in the workshop from one of the ones we stripped for parts if required.
BMR kit /brake service should be easy enough - likewise on the LPG. I caught a whiff of gas under the bonnet on mine again but doesn't seem to be from the feed hoses - I've replaced all the injector hoses with new 6mm hose, but thinking I might try and replace it all with 5mm to make sure it's a nice tight fit.
Marty
It surprises me a bit aswell - especially as eBay have fees if you sell something, and then they take a fee on the postage cost aswell, and then Paypal take a fee for money coming in if its from the sale of something...
I worked it out and on £45 for a door latch if I sell them on eBay, after all the fees - I get about £37, so every single item which I'm the one who puts the time and effort in to actually do the work on, I'm just handing %17 to other people - just for the convenience of having the outlet to sell them.
Oh, and because I've sold a fair number of them in the last couple of months and it's all traceable, it will have to be declared on my tax return as I'm self-employed aswell, so there's another %15-%20 straight to the tax man.
Oh the reality of doing 'business' in the modern age - but I guess until it no longer becomes worth my while to actually do it, then I'll still do them... one of the reasons that I want to push people more towards my own web shop as then I only get stung the Paypal fee - but as the likes of eBay are where a LOT of people (myself included!) go to buy things I probably wouldn't sell anything if I didn't list them up there... catch 22 I guess..
But it is surprising that people don't charge more on eBay to make up for it. I recently put my core charge up to £20 from £10 as people weren't bothering to send faulty latches back... and funnily enough of the 6 or 7 I've sold - even with the higher core charge - I've only had 1 returned... which again starts making it un-sustainable to do door latches at £45 if I then have to go and spend between £15 and £40 to keep buying ones to recondition
Oh well... rant over... I do still enjoy being able to repair and supply bits cheaper then buying new and appreciate the people who do send bits back!
Orangebean wrote:
I tend to buy 20L at a time of this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ATF-DIII-DEXRON-3-Semi-Synthetic-Automatic-Transmission-Fluid-Oil-20-Litre-/370282353380
or 2 of these would do the trick and leave some spare:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ATF-DIII-DEXRON-3-Semi-Synthetic-Automatic-Transmission-Fluid-Oil-5-Litre-/250521944613
I use Smith & Allan stuff oils etc on everything I build or run. No complaints or issues yet and very fast delivery!
SNAP... I use their oils aswell... I've got the remnants of a 20L of ATF at the workshop at the moment, and am looking at getting a 20L of 10W/40 engine oil so I can do an oil change in my one - and then have some for the other 2 aswell - but also would also be useful for if people if they want to do oil service etc at the workshop day etc..