Without trying to de-rail this too much...
Re fitting a second door lock to the passenger side... Yes, you could do it.. in theory... you could fit it so you had a driver side latch from a LHD in the LHF door, and a RHD one in the RHF door. you would need to add in the key switch wire from the opposite side though and run it to the drivers door of your vehicle and wire it into the key switch of the 'native' drivers side for it to work properly... maybe... but probably not.
Reason I say 'maybe' is that as GilbertD says - if it's locked/alarmed, then you will set the alarm off with the unlocking/opening of the other door without it recognising a key input. You could run the key switch wire to the outstation in your passenger door, and it will be transmitted to the BECM and recognised as key switch... BUT as I've found when bench testing BECMs with a RHF door latch on it, as most of mine I work on are RHD - the BECM - whilst recognising key switches in both doors will only listen to the one that it thinks is the drivers door - based on the LHD/RHD setting written in the BECM.
So on LHD, it will only listen to the LHF door key switch, not the RHF and Vice versa for RHD (my tester is now wired up to support both LHD and RHD driver door latches for testing both BECM settings).
So... you could run the key wire to the opposite door, so it detects the key turning in the lock, but I think that will still throw a hissy fit, because it will see your driver door key switch moving as it should, but the passenger door CDL switch locking/unlocking. I will try and have a test of this on the bench to see what it does, but I am assuming that it will still set the alarm off.
Nice thought though!!
It wasn't the worst thing in the world... I had previously had a second P38 compressor fitted, which I mounted on a steel adapter plate next to the EAS box. I used the studs in the bodywork where the ABS pump would fit on a LHD vehicle, and then used standoffs from that for the second P38 compressor.
When I upgraded to the viair, I re-drilled the plate and used some anti-vibration mounts, and it's now situated there pretty happily. I extended the inlet feed around to into the EAS box with the filter head on it, so it takes air in from the EAS box, rather than just in the engine bay, as mine gets fairly dusty!
Control wise - I took a feed off the positive for the standard P38 compressor, and wired that to a relay. The relay contact then has a separate 30A fused feed (which in my case comes off the auxiliary battery in the loadspace). So when the factory compressor 'turns on', it triggers the relay to power the Viair.
I still have a P38 compressor in the EAS box, but it isn't connected - as it's really along for the ride with the Viair... it's there just as a backup incase the Viair fails at any point, then I have a 'get home' solution. The air feed from the Viair goes through a NRV and T's into the feed from the P38 compressor.
The standard p38 compressor is unplugged, so it doesn't run under normal circumstances.
I'll try and get a couple of pictures at some point...
The Bosch coils are easy enough to change, but they won't come out of the bracket whilst on the engine - it's far easier to do them with the whole coils and bracket removed.
As Brian says - 4 bolts - if they are even all still there, and then they lift up the back of the engine, if you don't have too much LPG stuff down the back.
I remove then with the HT leads attached as it's easier than trying to unplug them down the back of the engine. Swapping the coils in the bracket is easy enough on the bench, and then refit HT leads before poking it all back down the back of the engine.
Shouldn't take your indy long to do... worst case if they won't come out, you may need the plenum bananas removed for access.
I went with a Piper Torquemax cam in my engine build. Definitely has a bit more pep off the line.
I wouldn't worry too much about the cam bearings, but the cam itself could be a reason it's feeling a little lethargic.
I did the pushrods in mine as I was building a complete new engine - but again, unless one is damaged, then you're probably OK to reuse - you will need new tappets obviously to run in with the new camshaft - but most of the cam 'kits' come with tappets aswell.
I believe I paid about £450 for the torquemax cam kit - which included tappets, timing chain and sprockets, and all the gaskets etc required. This was about 10 years ago that I bought the kit though... and it only got installed 3 odd years ago - but it's still running nicely it seems.
tanis8472 wrote:
Martyuk wrote:
tanis8472 wrote:
I learnt something new last night while reading the owners manual.
You're supposed to check oil level with engine hot.Never known that before
Erm, What owners manual were you reading? This is from the 2000/2001 owners manual - 3rd edition:
ENGINE OIL LEVEL CHECK & TOP-UP
Check the oil level at least every 400 km
(250 miles) when the engine is COLD and with
the vehicle resting on level ground, as follows:
- Withdraw the dipstick and wipe the blade
clean.- Fully reinsert the dipstick and withdraw
again to check the level, which should
NEVER be allowed to fall below the lower
mark on the dipstick.- To top-up, unscrew the oil filler cap and
add oil to maintain the level between the
UPPER and LOWER marks on the dipstick.
DO NOT OVERFILL!NOTE: If it is necessary to check the oil level
when the engine is hot, switch off the engine
and let the vehicle stand for five minutes to
allow the oil to drain back into the sump. Then
follow the procedure already described1996
Well that is a new one on me alright....
I just looked in the handbooks I've got here - and the one from my 1998 GEMS is a 1997 publication and it also shows to check it when HOT... same as the image you posted says... But then I look at the other handbooks I've got for my 2000 and 2001's and they both say to check COLD and wait 5 mins if it has to be checked when HOT...
Weird...
Marshall8hp wrote:
Speaking of fuel flap releases (and not wanting to hijack the thread) I have seen reference to a “cable” that allows you to manually release the door. The cable located behind the RHS tail light access panel. Is this an after market thing, or after a particular MY? Asking as I don’t see anything there that would answer that description on mine.
That was helpfully only added from about '99MY onwards. Pre '99 didn't have one - and whilst you can (from memory) get to the solenoid to trigger it manually, you need to remove a load of trim to be able to access it... which is probably why they added a manual release, though I don't know what took them so long!!
Bolt wrote:
Martyuk wrote:
Interesting results...
I won't tell you how long it takes for my Viair 444C to fill the p38 tank ;)
Awww, Come on, Now you have to......If only to make us jealous, but mostly to give us an idea of what it can do!
Is yours the 2 cyl jobbie?
OK, so it took a few more days than I had hoped to get around to tinkering with the EAS, but finally got a look at it today, now the weather has cleared up a little bit.
I had the tank empty, and the times are in... this is with a single Viair 444C compressor:
0-50psi: 49s
50-100 psi: 1:09s (total from empty: 1:58s)
100-145 psi: 1:13s (total from empty: 3:11s) 145 psi (ish) on the gauge was to the pressure switch turning the pump off.
So a shade over 3 mins to fill the tank from empty, with a door open etc.
The 444C is rated to 200psi, and 100% duty cycle at 100psi.
Funny how that happens isn't it...
tanis8472 wrote:
I learnt something new last night while reading the owners manual.
You're supposed to check oil level with engine hot.Never known that before
Erm, What owners manual were you reading? This is from the 2000/2001 owners manual - 3rd edition:
ENGINE OIL LEVEL CHECK & TOP-UP
Check the oil level at least every 400 km
(250 miles) when the engine is COLD and with
the vehicle resting on level ground, as follows:
- Withdraw the dipstick and wipe the blade
clean.- Fully reinsert the dipstick and withdraw
again to check the level, which should
NEVER be allowed to fall below the lower
mark on the dipstick.- To top-up, unscrew the oil filler cap and
add oil to maintain the level between the
UPPER and LOWER marks on the dipstick.
DO NOT OVERFILL!NOTE: If it is necessary to check the oil level
when the engine is hot, switch off the engine
and let the vehicle stand for five minutes to
allow the oil to drain back into the sump. Then
follow the procedure already described
Did you check the IACV? The Thor one is different to the GEMS one - GEMS has a stepper motor that gets gunked up, but the Thor is a different setup where it's a couple of electromagnets which depending on the current being pulsed through them will hold a spring loaded air valve in the correct position.
I've had it on mine where it's got really gunked in there and the valve part hasn't been able to move freely.
From what I've read, it sounds like the GEMS ECU has been tweaked so it will run without an immobiliser code. That's the only way I know of that it will start without the code coming from the BECM.
My guess is that whoever had it previously had an issue with the immobiliser kicking in, and instead of wanting to try and fix it properly (EG get and enter the EKA...) decided to do the normal "I don't do electrics" excuse of bodge the hell out of it and probably pay some silly money for the ECU to be tweaked, and then put in a start button with some household wire...
Glad you have that part of the web of madness untangled and it's working properly again!
I always gathered he was a nice enough guy - and I didn't have anything against him. I still don't really - I'm just frustrated that I never got an explanation... if he'd actually some to me and said "look, I'm really sorry, but...." then I would have understood... Just getting could shouldered though is a bit rough.
I know how he feels though - there are plenty of times where I've felt like packing it all in and putting my efforts and energy into something else, but somehow I keep coming back for more. I do really get fed up with some of the people on other forums or FB groups spreading bad information, like it's gospel, or people why you take the time to try and explain it all just not bothering to listen to what you're saying.
There's always 2 sides to every story - you're right... I hope he's a happier man now - I must admit, I would hate to have to be dealing with some of his customers on a daily basis...
pffft... I used to think he was OK - until I gave him a load of BECM information I'd spent hours researching - on the promise that I would get information back, as he knew someone at LRNA who had been involved in their design or something and had some other documentation... Funnily enough I never heard anything back, and when I chased him up on it, got a weedy response the first time, and nothing the second time...
Thanks - I have replaced the shocks on mine before with standard ones, so have been through that before.
I ended up doing mine with the pair of washers on the top of the axle and just the one on the bottom by the nut. If I can be bothered, then I'll undo them all again and remove the second cup from the top of the axle side.
I just find it amusing that the diagram and instructions that come with each shock show and mention to put them all in... especially as it's sold as a P38 shock... and the cups on the shocks actually fit inside the P38 ones as if they were supposed to be there... still, it's all done now. New shocks all round, and new air springs up front. Think I need to calibrate the EAS, as the compressor still runs more than it should... but that's a task for another day.
Pics to follow once I've got them off my phone onto my server.
OK, quick post - pics to follow later..
anyone else who has terrafirma shocks - the standard ones TF125/126 had any issues getting the rubber bushing cups in? I'm putting them in as per the diagram, but the thread doesn't seem long enough, or I can't get enough compression on the rubber bushings to begin with to get them started.
If I take one of the inner cups (that basically go inside the P38 cups on the lower shock mount) then I can get the outer cup on and the nut on. put that one back, and I can't as the rubber bushing decompresses...
For the moment I'm going to keep it so that the top has both TF metal cups and the bottom doesn't have the inner one. If they'd made the thread on the lower mount 5mm longer it wouldn't be an issue...
BTW this is on the rear - I haven't looked at the joyousness of the front yet
Bolt wrote:
Martyuk wrote:
Interesting results...
I won't tell you how long it takes for my Viair 444C to fill the p38 tank ;)
Awww, Come on, Now you have to......If only to make us jealous, but mostly to give us an idea of what it can do!
Is yours the 2 cyl jobbie?
Nah, it's single cylinder, but it's a beast...
I am actually probably going to have the tank emptied tomorrow as I'm chasing a leak on the tank side... I haven't been bothered doing it so far, but it is getting to the stage where it annoys me...
I'll time it when I get it up and running and get the 0-50/100/150 psi times. From memory though it was somewhere around 5mins to fill the tank completely.
Interesting results...
I won't tell you how long it takes for my Viair 444C to fill the p38 tank ;)
Hmm... I want to look at your RR in person then at some point and try to sort the key sync out... things like that bug me when they should all work! lol... maybe if I host a summer camp, then if you wanted to come over to that we can try and get a few bits ticked off... I have the press and tool to do radius arm bushes... people have the knowledge/experience to do the headlining, I can take a look at the key/locking stuff...
And probably get a few more things looked at too...
Ahh, interesting to know! In that case they should be fairly interchangeable... I use the BCPR6ES on mine - again, because the smaller hex is easier to work with!
Sounds like you need a fair bit doing alright...
Out of interest - does the key sync WITHOUT the RF filter plugged in? or just no key sync/central locking at all?
The engine does by and far sound like the biggest project alright - the only real part of that I read and find to be the biggest pain would be the rear crank seal - the rest of it you can do with the engine in the vehicle if needs be...
Cosmetic bits... I guess they could wait a bit until the mechanical bits are sorted...
I'm definitely a 'if it can be fixed then it's worth having a go' kind of person - but then my 1998 that I'm restoring has become a real labour of love, and motivation lacks a lot of the time... but I'm slowly persevering with it - I think I've had it going on 4 years now and it's still all in bits!
I don't know the answer to your question about whether to keep it or not - but I'm always happy to look at anything on the electronics side... if we were nearer, then I'd have looked at the central locking for you by now ;)
Marty