It'll be on it's way back to you this week.... :)

Fob codes were wrong, there was a fault on the power board - the batter cover wasn't quite all the way on on one of the fobs and I don't think one of the battery connections was quite being made either - so now both fobs work... oh, and there's a refurbished switchpack in the box, and my old PAC SWI-RC unit for you to play with for steering wheel controls on your aftermarket head unit...

All I've done to mine is drive it... I've sleeved my jumper cables with braiding too, to tidy them up a bit as I liked the look of Sloth's. I've also got a box of bits in the garage to fit... Terrafirma shocks all round, and new front air springs. I was going to look at doing them today but it's started raining, so think I'll probably crack on with some other bits inside... like building RF filters, and looking at another BECM that arrived on Friday.

The plugs with the smaller hex are BCPR6ES - same as the BPR6ES

BKR's must be something different altogether

Hmmm, Now I can see pics it makes more sense - I forgot the inlet one had the short spacer thing and the long reed was on top - my memory was fuzzy and thought it had a longer bit on top aswell...

Weird alright. I'd be interested in the longevity of the reed if it was fitted the other way around... Not that I've had need to mess around with a P38 compressor for ages since fitting the Viair to mine!

Pics?

I've always seen them and rebuilt them with the reed valve closest to the surface, and then the metal strip on top of them - I was under the impression they were there as a hard stop so the reed part didn't get bent too far and damaged over time...

You can swap just the viscous coupling - you don't have to do the fan and coupling together. As long as the fan looks ok that is!

I may not be able to make it, or I might be a bit late... Helping my Aunt move house/sort out things like electrics/tv etc in her new place on Wednesday afternoon/evening, but if I get home at a reasonable time in the evening, I'll pop by for one...

No problem - I have a number of them available and they are easy to switch over - a couple of screws to loosed the trim, disconnect the connector and remove the handbrake gaitor, and then a bunch of Torx head screws (T10 or 15 from memory) to remove the switchpack unit itself from the trim.

Though if you've replaced it before, then you know all that :) The actual switchpack unit is pretty much the same across all the model years - and between LHD/RHD - it's just the bit of trim it's bolted to that changes depending on year/specification.

Cheers,
Marty

If you can't hear any clicking in the door when you press the switch, then chances are it's the switchpack again I'm afraid.

A lot of the ones I refurbish seem to have the front/left as being the first one that goes intermittent - who knows why!

The front windows are driven from the outstations in the doors, and have a power feed which does most things and then a second one which is just going through the relay to the window motor (as it draws a load more current).

If you are getting a click in the door from the relay when the buttons are pressed, then the switchpack is fine. If you only get a relay click when the switch is pressed in one direction, but not the other (or not at all) then chances are it's the switchpack that is the problem.

I do sell refurbished ones on exchange for the faulty one on my website, and see the switches failing more and more as they get older. I actually replace the metal dome switches with new ones and clean up the PCB pads they contact on all the ones I work on.

If you do get the relay clicking in the outstation, then let me know and I'll dig into the ETM and get some wire colours/locations/fuse details for you to check out to narrow down where the fault it.

Hope this helps.

Marty

No, keep it with the darker bumpers - it works better with the contrast in my opinion

Don't fancy doing both of mine do you? Though I like the varnish clear on the wheel as it is - yours looks like it has a bit more of a red tinge.

Happy to throw a few ££ your way for doing it obviously. I just don't have time, inclination, motivation... and a stack of things I need to work on before even thinking about trying to do that. Drop me a PM/email if you're interested and we can work something out...

I'll be about - literally have no other work at the moment since there isn't an entertainment industry

Biggest/heaviest thing I've towed was a 63KVA generator on a tandem axle (braked!) trailer.

I think the generator place said it was about 4.5T all up and they usually tow them with big yank style SUV/Pickup, but took one look at the RR and said "yeah, you'll be fine with that"

EAS FTW - level driving, and pulled it easily at 50mph/80kph (limit for towing in NZ at the time) on the motorway.

12.4 doesn't sound like a dead cell to me - at least not when it isn't loaded anyway...

If it has dropped a cell, then I'd be expecting to see around 10.5V at the battery after it's been left standing for awhile anyway. My old one which has gone faulty on me would show charging voltage - well ish - and hold it for a little bit just after disconnecting or turning the RR off, but then it would keep dropping to 11.7/11.8 with no real load on it.

If you're seeing 12.4 then whilst it's not fully charged, it probably isn't a total write off just yet.

Also my batteries get a fairy hard life in the fact that often my RR will sit around for 3-4 weeks at a time without being started - when I'm away working. My last main starting battery lasted just under 4 years - which was a MF31-1000. The previous MF31-750 I had lasted about 4 1/2 years and was only totally flat after I had been away for 8 weeks without the RR being started.

Marshall8hp wrote:

Guys, for clarity, I am I reading that you remove the glovebox (and its surround?), then up behind you can see 4 torx screws to remove, take them out and the electrical connector, then get your trim removal tools and attack the bottom edge of the unit from the front of the dash above the wooden trim, pry it up and out. Is that correct?

Yep. Glove box and surround out - couple of bolts at the bottom, and then screws around it. Disconnect the latch release (it's just clipped in) and remove that.

Then 4x security bolts holding the airbag in (I believe they are E10 or E12 - which basically inverted torx - the head of the bolt is a star). Disconnect the airbag wire, and then yes a couple of trim tools to get the airbag up and out with the trim in place. I use plastic ones so they don't scratch the trim - also one ones with fancier trim - like mine with piano black - I put a line of masking tape along the top of the trim, so any rubbing was done on that rather than the lacquer.

Sometimes the airbags come out quick and easy, if the trim is a little bit loose - some I've done have been an utter pig - but they've always come out eventually!

Yep - I haven't taken one of those trims off in years to do a dash out job - I use a couple of plastic pry tools to pop the airbag out aswell. Far easier than trying to pry the trim off, as usually when they come out at least one of the pins snap off and they don't glue on very well, and the trim is never the same again! So definitely the way forward to do doing it...

You only get the glove box cable routing wrong once though.... lol

The U clip thing is what holds the outer ducts in place - they should have plastic lugs on them which the springy U piece clips between them and the dash plastic to hold the vents in. On mine at least one of the lugs on the vents have snapped off over time, so the U piece doesn't have anything to spring against, so it just falls out. I got rid of mine on at least the drivers side - but the vent and ducting is all taped together (and i think the last time it was apart, I used some self-tappers aswell to hold all the ducting together, and then taped them aswell to keep as much air inside the ducting as possible!!

Glad you've got another job off the 'list'... :)

I have a small DeWalt DCF887 impact driver for around the house/exhibition AV stuff (which has the 1/4" hex drive socket) which has on occasion been borrowed for smaller tasks on the RR's - with a hex to 1/4", 3/'8" or 1/2" adapter for whatever I need to do. It's got about 205Nm of torque, and I use a 4Ah battery with it.

For the tough stuff I have a DeWalt DCF899H 1/2" drive impact driver, which I have a 9Ah battery for (it's a monster) which has about 950Nm of torque and 'up to' 1625Nm of 'breakaway torque'. Rusty shock bolts... no problem, stupidly tight crank pulley bolt.... no problem... It has 3 speed settings with different amounts of maximum spank in each one - lowest is max 135Nm, second is 400Nm, and top speed is 950Nm.

Very versatile, but not cheap. Gets solid wheel nuts off with no problems at all, but a set of impact sockets for it were a must! I did contemplate getting a replacement air one for up at my workshop, but the 9Ah battery means even if I don't take the charger, I could be undoing rusty P38 bolts all day long and still not have it go flat. The downside - with the big battery, it is mighty hefty and not fun to have to lift above you if you're lying on your back under a RR!!

Damn - I really am the odd one out on this round! I've only ever owned P38s!

1995 4.6HSE to start, then a 1998 4.6HSE, and now the 2001 4.6 Vogue.

Add onto that the 1998 4.6 and the 2000 4.6 Vogue sitting at my workshop awaiting me to get my butt into gear and get them road worthy again...

I think you can see the pattern here....

That'll be why my Oxford leather seats are so damn comfy then....

JMCLuimni wrote:

Can’t see me shipping LINLEY to UK passing the wife’s budget meeting....
I’m in Conneticut. About an hour or so north of JFK.
Welcome anytime, just bring beer.....

Oh nice - I have various friends around NYC, so chances are I'll be over that way again before I have work to catch up with some of them - with any luck anyway...

I actually have a friends up in CT - I think she's somewhere around New Haven, which if she isn't over in Cali with her other half then I'll probably end up heading towards New Haven to catch up with her anyway.

Beer can be sourced... though I could also bring RR parts too if required ;)

My workshop is probably 15 miles south of Swindon - just outside Marlborough. Whilst there is space up there for a caravan, I wouldn't recommend it, as I rent one unit out of a number of them up there, and there have been letters etc about extra vehicles being parked up there as it was getting out of hand for awhile. There also is only one official parking space allocated to my unit, which is on an incline and about the length of a RR... Extra vehicles during the day has never been a problem, but I'm not sure on the deal with staying overnight sorry.

I mentioned about the drier to Sloth as he's done loads more with AC systems than I have, and he recommends replacing the drier again, as it's been open to the atmosphere.

AC on a long journey like that would be nice!

I took mine out for a bit of a run this evening now the alternator is back in after being reconditioned (thread/pics to follow) and I was pleasantly surprised to find that my AC is still running nicely - it's been a couple of years now since I've had mine charged - so I'm glad that it's finally holding pressure properly (I started off with a seized compressor, then bad O-ring, then leaking from the condenser - so after a few goes at chasing all that I've obviously finally cracked it!)

@JMCLuimni - You're welcome to attend if you want... just ship the Linley over and it'll give us all something to ogle :)

Seriously though - where in the US are you based? The next time I'm over there, if I'm anywhere near where you are, then I'll have to stop by and see the Linley and H&H in person...