leolito wrote:
I was actually planning to use that connector (the permanent live one) to feed a 12V plug in the boot, exactly to use with the fridge. Mine draws max 6-7A, honestly I believe it should be fine.
The switched cable feed I was planning to running to besides the LPG tank and run an old Viair compressor is sitting in my garage doing nothing ... that draw is the one I am having concerns with (I think the comp draws 21 or 30 cannot find exact info).
I can either look it up by VIN number, or of you have the door card off, and can see what connector (s) it has going to the vehicle loom, will determine which version it is.
Gilbertd wrote:
Marty, any chance of having a DSP amp replacement-a-thon now? The 2001 Vogue that used to belong to OldShep and has been rescued by me and a mate has the DSP system with just the sub working. It did work intermittently but now not at all, or at least not in the 40 minutes it took me to drive it over to my mates place anyway.
I have 2 of the replacements half finished at the moment. The amps are mounted to the boards, I just have to finish making the looms up and then they are ready to go. I'm due to be away this week, though haven't been feeling the best the last few days, so I don't know if I will change my plans yet, but once the latches are totally finished and boxed up to go to their respective new homes, I can take a look at finishing off the amp boards, and then one will certainly be available.
It is definitely not the BECM... monitor it fairly closely... it won't get better or magically fix itself unfortunately :(
I've just had a latch-a-thon over the weekend as I have a number of them to do for people, and now have 10 of various doors/connector styles ready for testing and final prep before sending. I have done a few extras though, so if you do need some, then you might even be in luck rather than having to wait for me to get my a-into-g to do some more... haha
Door latch microswitches becoming intermittent in one of the front doors.
Quite often the RHF, but could be either of the fronts as they both have a central locking switch in them
Beauty is in the eye of beholder.
I like mine with the wraparound nudge bar and light guards front and rear.
Mine had the light guards factory fitted aswell, with rivnuts in the panels. The annoying thing for me is that mine got reversed into by some idiot delivery driver who didn't even stop to tell me. Pushed the wing panel in, so when I replace it, I'm either going to have to find another way to refit the mount, or drill the replacement panel.
The p38 doesn't reset the EAS all the time. Yes, it will 'adjust' itself to keep the corners within the target heights, but it doesn't do a full reset.
It will also only open valves on a single axle at a time - it won't open all 4 - so the scenario of the front dropping under braking and the air being pushed to the rear just won't happen. You can see this happening under normal operation - if you select a height, then if going up - the rear axle gets raised first, and then the front will come up. When dropping in height the front will go down first and then the rear will follow. I believe to stop the headlights from being shone upwards to possibly dazzle other drivers.
The ONLY time the P38 will cross link an axle is when you have your foot on the brakes and the road speed is down to nearly zero. It will then open both valves on the front axle to level it side-to-side - again I believe to make sure the headlights are level when you stop. It doesn't do this on the rear axle though. So if the brake inhibit is bypassed, then chances are it won't even do that.
I personally wouldn't disable the brake inhibit, but each to their own.
I've also had a few moments of there nearly being more skidmarks than just on the road. the most memorable of late being on a country road in Ireland, coming around a blind bend to be dazzled by the high beams of a stationary vehicle on the other side of the road. Flashed him and the high beams went off to reveal a tractor/trailer pulling into the farm. Had to STAMP on the brakes and swerve to miss it and it didn't feel like it was going to roll anywhere, but to this day I have no idea how I didn't hit the trailer. If the moron didn't have his high beams on, then I would have seen it a couple of seconds earlier. But was very glad I was in the RR!
BECMs also talk best to diagnostics with the ignition OFF. Sometimes they will communicate with Pos I or II on, but I tried mine the other day to look at an input once I'd started the engine and it said no communication. Turned ignition off and connected straight away.
With the ignition off, talking the BECM whether in lockout or not, you should get DIAGNOSTICS MODE on the dash
In my experience if they are in lockout, the software version 153 is accompanied by the other erroneous settings - LHD, French, VIN number reading different, and a stupid build date.
I just mentioned the SW version as it's the first thing on the "Other" page of BECM settings, so is quick and easy to open p to get an indication of what is going on.
In theory even if it's in alarm lockout, on the later V36 and above logic boards, you can recover it with the Nanocom and the Disarm function in the utilities section of the BECM, but that assumes you have the correct EKA code for the vehicle. There are plenty that I haven't seen it work on (usually where the battery has gone flat when it's locked) and either the EKA has been scrambled as it's lost power, or quite commonly because the owner doesn't have the correct EKA code to start with - either they've been given the wrong one, or the BECM has been changed before and the EKA doesn't match what's in their handbook anymore.
It seems to be something it does on the later Wabco D ECU. I don't know if other diagnostics report it the same way as Nanocom does (IE it's something the wabco ECU is spitting out, or whether it's how the Nanocom interprets the data).
The 'D' ECU will stop responding to diagnostics once you get to 5mph, or it switches the ABS light off on the dash. Somewhat annoying when you're trying to diagnose a problem. Along with the fact that some of the sensor labels in the inputs window are wrong.
If you get ABS Fault and the likes come up but no faults showing, try pressing the right arrow on the bottom of the faults box - sometimes when you do that it goes to the 'next' fault and will show the historical ones in there.
What an utter munter. Both the author of the articles (as it's also the same person) and the 'Expert'
Complete contradictions, which surely any journalist worth their salt would throw back at the their 'source' given the time-frame of these articles being published. Do they not realise that it makes them all look stupid and not help the image of the press massaging facts and figures for their own benefits/narratives?
Re ball joints... I've done 7 or 8 sets of them now and use a kit similar to this (might be the same, but I bought it years ago and came in a big red case)
I went with the 21pc one as it has a few more adapters and the likes. It's pretty hefty and combined with a 4ft breaker bar I haven't had a ball joint I haven't been able to shift yet. A couple have made a pretty decent 'crack' when they've started to move though.
I've always found it tougher to split the steering knuckle off the ball joints than get the joints out - but again with a decent size splitter, and some brute force and ignorance, they've come free. I've only seen one where we had to cut through the taper on the ball joint to free it, and it had basically become one with the steering knuckle and the owner just ended up replacing the knuckle.
Alignment... If you don't touch the collet, then it should be fine. Usually there is a tool that is uses to lock into the axle casing and through the hub to set the taper collet and align it, but in theory if you don't touch the taper collet when it comes out, it should be fine when it goes back in. I haven't adjusted it on any of the ones I've done, and they've all been fine. Generally if you replace the axle oil seal and it starts leaking fairly soon after, then the chances are the alignment is off! But again, probably 95% chance that if you don't touch it when it comes out, it'll be fine when it goes back in.
I clean off all the surface rust and scale with a wire brush in a cordless drill once the old joints are out, to make sure the surfaces are nice and flat for the new joints to seat against.
Good luck with it! It can be a pain hitting the bolts to split the hub (I spent about 4 hours hitting on the LHD one of mine before it relented and cracked free! Copper grease on reassembly definitely helps). But also the brake disc on backwards with a few wheel nuts and then clouting with a lump hammer really makes a difference - the last one I did was pretty rusty and after about 3 smacks it started coming free.
If your front brake pads have been cooked like that, and you're going to the effort of replacing the rest of the front braking system, then I'd be almost tempted to just get a new set of front discs and sacrifice the old ones to the cause of getting the hubs apart :)
@Morat - I'll have a look and see if I can find your sockets - I may have picked them up and put them in one of my tool kits, or they might still be lurking in the workshop at some point... are you able to whatsapp me a pic of one of the others so I know the rough size I'm looking for as I also own both an older and newer style of Halfords Advanced tool kits and they had different depth "deep" sockets, and I've also got another set of deep sockets too - just so I can compare and make sure I'm looking for the right ones!!
Sounds like the IACV is gunked up then.
You can't pull the Thor ones apart - you have to just squirt cleaner into the openings and drain out all the muck that it dislodges and keep doing that until it moves freely.
What's the coolant temperature showing in Nanocom (on the Motronic ECU, not BECM/Dash)?
Mine was giving me hassles occasionally, and found the coolant temp sensor was reading -39.5 C when cold, and then starting to read a bit more normally once warmed up. Though as it was getting more intermittent, it sometimes wouldn't read right when hot either.
That was causing me to not be able to restart without troubles, and really weird gearbox shifting sometimes. Worth checking that out.
There are a few bolts on the P38 which are 12-point... (I'm looking at you Panhard rod bolts for a start!) but granted not many...
The latest task has been extending the screen cabling and wiring for my navigation drive, so it's not nestled up behind the glove box, rather than stuffed into the dash with all the wiring and next to a heater box.
Also changed my engine coolant temp sensor, as it was reading -39.5 C (open circuit) to the engine ECU when cold - and cause bad running and nasty gear shifts until it decided to make a connection again. Luckily it was an easy job - removed belt, removed the belt guard, undid AC compressor, and moved out the way on flexible hoses and then un-screwed the old sensor from the inlet manifold. Screwed new one in and nipped it up with a spanner. No coolant loss at all!
It now reads properly and I don't have to wait for a few miles for it to warm up enough to report proper temp and the gearbox doesn't hang onto gears FOREVER.
Next job I'm finishing, hopefully over the next few days, is a rear auxiliary control panel. More info to follow...
Morat wrote:
Can you turn the pass airbag off in a P38? Maybe a nanocom/dealer setting?
No, it's not an option on the P38. So I'm guessing it's rear seats only for things like car cots/child seats in the P38?
That Tyre Coefficient is only for the instrument readout option on the Nanocom - it won't do anything to the instrument cluster.
To get into the "Service Mode" of the factory navigation, go into the "Settings" menu and then press and hold the "Menu" button for about 10s. From memory it doesn't give you much to play around with - just testing of sensor/button inputs and showing hardware/software versions, and checking GPS reception.
leolito wrote:
Cool thanks - it was mostly a curiosity, as I mentioned my fobs never worked and I only used the key, and plus my BeCM was "disarmed" and EKA was off as well. This might soon change ... :-)
Is it back yet?!?
The Piper Torqumax and the Kent H180 are (i believe) pretty similar. the Torquemax is designed as a 'fast road' cam, which isn't very extreme and works fine on the standard engine tuning.
The biggest thing I've noticed is that the torque curve is brought down a bit lower. there is more pull off the line, and more response from the engine from about 2000 rpm up to 3500 rpm, whereas on standard profile cam, the max torque isn't produced until about 3400? rpm...
Most of my driving is fairly light footed, and the engine runs most of the time between the 1800 - 3000rpm range, and it feels a bit livlier with the Torquemax in comparison to the old standard cam. I recently measured the lobes of the old cam and it wasn't actually that worn.
If I were going with anything more 'performance' based, then as mas-as says - the real gains of it won't be seen without the engine being mapped and probably some porting/gas flowing of heads and the likes..