Yeah, that's true...!
Whew, finally made it.
Flex plate was in 10 pieces, got it out and the new one in, now the whole procedure in reverse...
Thanks for the help, still more things to fix....
Finally made it. Was a real fight with the bolts and myself and the car.....had to have a serious word with Rangie, if it refuses to give me the bellhousing bolts I would have to make it see its creator....that seemed to work :-)
I can see the parts of the flex plate now and can change it.
While I am there I wanted to check the output shaft seal, but am I right to assume that if the "flywheel" and ringgear is clean and dry that I do not need to change it? The engine is very oily but the inside of the bellhousing is clean...
OK, sounds like a Plan.
Will report.
Good news: I found a metal work shop that welded my manifold for small money.
Other news: Flex plate is still not out, I am highly motivated to get the range on the road again but it keeps showing me the middle finger, it´s becoming a do or die kind of thing. And I would prefer to do.
But I need some consolation and advice for this mission because It´s very steep uphill for me.
Meanwhile I ordered a heavy duty flex plate from ashcroft instead of the chaep one I have here because I definately will not do this work ever again in this life.
So I habe the flex bolts out that go to the TC, have removed the bellhousing screws except for the top ones because I have found no way possible to get at them, regardelss of how many extensions and flex joints I use. I have read it would be easier if I lower the engine a bit so since I have to undo the engine mounts anyway I proceeded with this. Right side no problem as manifold was removed anyway but left side I can not access the screws so that I can put the force to it that I seemingly need. A socket will not fit straight onto the nut and with a spanner I could not loosen it, too tight. Front screw is now also a bit worn. Any ideas ? Please don´t say remove manifold shield and manifold...
https://c.web.de/@337510546125364120/yvh_0KBVTYms79Yt-neskw
I hope to find some motivating help on this flex plate journey, otherwise I an not sure to keep up my spirits and continue...
greetings, Max.
Another Question: what is the correct procedere to change the flex plate when just moving the engine a bit to the front ?
Open the inspection hole and remove the flex plate bolts from there and then move the engine to the front, taking care that the torque converter stays exactly where is it, then remove the rest of the bolts ? And the same vice versa ?
Is it stainless steel? Then I couldn't do it anyway. Thanks.
I'll give it a try, have nothing to lose, isn't easy finding the right manifold here in Germany...
Other alternative would be exhaust repair paste but I don't think it will last that long...
Tried that, thanks.
It doesn't leak at the Flex joint but it does at the inner side of the intersection where 2 and 2 come together...
The steel looks like it is weldable, right ?
Soooo, I am finally starting the task of changing the flexplate and some small things along that way.
I removed the right exhaust manifold because I was having ticking noises from that area sounding like a gasket leak.
Now this thing has this flexible connection in the middle and although everything looks good, I can "wobble" the manifold at the flex connection when I move it in my hands. Is that normal ? I have never seen such a connection in a manifold therefore I an not sure how they are supposed to be...
Out of curiosity, I checked the german vehicle register offices website to check which recalls are notes there for a Land Rover Range Rover 1998 Model and it only lists recall D156, which is that "cracks in the petrol tank can lead to loss of petrol" (only Petrol models, 1993-1998, Discovery and Range Rover, 384 cars in Germany).
Where would these cracks be, has anyone heard of this ?
If it´s of any help, the CO2 emission of a 1998 4,6 (Euro 2) is 414 g/km according to my german car papers...
I often had a little spark cross between the data socket and the plug when connenting the nanocom that way. If you connect it fast enough it usually works, but many times it blew the fuse.
On my Nanocom now also the power input via the data socket doesn´t work anymore, same as the round co-ax pin. Both blown. Now the only power source left is the usb on the other side...but to get it repaired I´d have to send it to Cyprus....
OK, sounds like a good plan.
Thanks !
Thanks for the cue, forgot to change the permissions....^^
Hi,
as if the "To Do" List wouldn´t be long enought, I had vibrations for some months and loud noises when starting.
Looks like the Flex Plate has shifted / broken / whatever:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IHEbqieghzBhnFEapoqegqmkltUEYkbc
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rxsjmXUk_gFJNldT5QKpXgMvZg8KabT_
It seems to have "eaten" its way into the flywheel a bit.
Just change the flex plate and leave the flywheel?
I read that it could be done with "just" shifting the Transmission backwards.
Any hints/thoughts?
Thanks and greetings,
Max.
Went out and had a look.
Problem identified.....picture here:
https://c.web.de/@337510546125364120/8TxRhYcSTaSWoqmrZWE2xg
The whole spring-thing is missing...
Thanks !
(You have to copy and paste the whole link into a new tab to see the picture....)
Hm. I´m sure it´s the pads, I can wiggle them back and forth in the caliper with my hand and replicate the noise....
Hi,
I have a rattling noise at the rear axle when going over bumps, stops when I press the brake pedal.
Found that the rear brake pads are slightly loose when the brake is not pressed.
Do they have any additional anti-rattle pads other that the spring at the small rear-side of the pads?
My parts dealer has listed two different ones, one for "Lockheed" brakes:
https://www.wagner-autoteile.de/zubehorsatz-scheibenbremsbelag-delphi-lx0023--286357
and one for "ATE" brakes:
https://www.wagner-autoteile.de/zubehorsatz-scheibenbremsbelag-delphi-lx0295--285897
I can´t make out any Brand on the caliper since the casing is so rusty and can´t see which set would fit.
Any ideas ?
Thanks.
greetings, Max.
Sealing the top of the Windscreen didn´t seem to help...:-(
Might have to really check with a water hose...something I can do with help from the kids :-)
I lifted up the strip on the roof and it looked OK underneath...