I keep the Nanocom plugged in all the time since I blew up my old one connecting it the wrong way too many times. But I also have an extension cable on it now so I could unplug it at the connection, not having to crawl into the footwell every time. Maybe that extension cable is also not quite up to par....
Thanks for the advice about posting pictures !
Hi,
I plugged in my Nanocom a couple of weeks ago and while diagnosing the becm I heard a series of fast relay clicks from the odometer and from unter the right seat, for a few seconds But nothing else. One click is normal when starting and ending the diagnose with the becm, but this was a lot more.
Then one morning my usually german display said "Market not set" and was back to english. Also the becm settings were resetted. Changed that back to german with the nano and has stayed like that since.
What could that mean....?? Power loss at the becm ? Ground ? But doesn´t the becm save its settings when there is no power...??
greetings,
Max.
Link Photo
(Just posted the Photo to try out the new Picture hosting method via ImgBB - is it also possible to see the pic directly in the post or as thumbnail?)
I tried different oils from 0W-40 to 15W-40 and always had quite a high comsumption of oil. Basically a rolling oil change :-) Be it burning or rather leaking.
Then tried the recommended Valvoline VR1 20W50 and that was a lot better.
I then changed to 15W-50 because the 15W give me a better temperature range for the winter here in Germany, also very little oil consumption, so I will stay with that. Mannol Favorit 15W-50, a lithuanian oil, only around 3 € per litre.
That sounds convincing, many coins go down that way !
Guess I´ll dismantle one and clean it.
Otherwise I have seen aftermarket seatbelts with all certifications that are quite inexpensive.
I have occasionally had the problem that the seatbelt buckles open by themselves. The lock just releases the buckle without any intervention.
Not funny while driving, especially if it happens to the kids. Only at the front seats though.
Has anyone ever had this ?
I have opened one, cleaned and oiled it but that didn't last long.
Is there a spring inside that weakens?
I guess replacing for a used one will not last long, any idea if they are still available new ?
It is a safety issue so should work reliably...
Oh great, thank you ! Quick fix !
So I can cross this from my mental P38-woes list :-D
Hi,
having recieved my new nanocom I saw that the IAT Sensor shows a temperature that is about 15-20 Degrees C below the actual temperature.
Wiring ist OK, 5V coming from the ECU and the Ohm reading is about what is to be expected accordin to a table that circulating the internet.
Since the Sensor does not seem to be available anywhere I would like to find out why the treading is off.
I could:
Bleeding sounds like a good idea, thanks.
Hi,
I have read some things about the failing plastic washer in the brake modulator and I think Richard also wrote about a clicking in the pedal being an early symtom.
I have a regular little click about in the middle of the brake travel and also when I sometimes brake (usually at slow speeds) the pedal feels like when the ABS is kicking in (fast series of feelable clicks in the pedal) even though there is no reason for the ABS to engage (tarmac road, slow braking)
Is that an early symtom of this issue ? Mine ist a 98 GEMS.
And what would be the remedy, I have read about a quite complicated repair, exchanginf the washer for a stainless steel one. Or complete modulator exchange with a used one from a later Model ? Is that possible or is that incompatible due to the different Traction control (2/4 Wheels) ?
greetings,
Max.
Change was easy but didn´t really make a difference, it still takes some time to start when the engine has been off for a while. I suspect the fuel pressure in the rail, will measure it.
Perfect, thanks.
Sometimes I need to crank for a while until it fires up and sometimes not. Read somewhere that if it starts instantly when pushing the throttle pedal a little then it could be the iacv. That works. Sine they are amazingly cheap I thought of ordering one for testing that theory.
Do they need some kind of process where they have to be calibrated with diagnostic software or is it a simple plug and play procedure ?
Thanks, that´s very helfpul, will try to get in there again....my favourite little area in that car...:-)(
OK, thanks. on PROG I can sense a small amount of warm air coming from the middle windscreen vents, so I will have a look behind the instrument cluster, but I guess it´s more likely something with the blend motor since both side vents aren´t working....
EDIT:
"https://c.web.de/%40337510546125364120/OYDwwTU8poWbnRFIo7sN0w"
Just saw this picture, here it looks as if there are no sliding joints on the windscreen vent distribution....so it must be the blend motor....??
Hi,
Now that my EAS is working fine again (eternal thanks to Richard) on to the next problem.
There is no air coming from the vents at the windscreen (just very little in the middle).
Flap motor seems to work (replaced 2 years ago), because when I select up/down/facia the air flow does change. When I select up I can feel a little coming from the mioddle vents, but not much. When I select down it stops coming out the top vents, so flaps should be working. I believe that if the flap would be stuck the motor would go to fault and stop wiorking for a while.
I do have the book symbol on the HEVAC, but not always, but since my Nanocom broke I can´t read the faults. Could also be because the AC is not filled and/or the compressor is not engaging.
Could it be that the vent ducts to the top have somehow dislodged ? Is there a way to access them without dismantling the glove box, etc.? Would removing the instrument panel give me access ?
Thanks for any ideas or hints....
After going nearly insame trying to align my replacement upper tailgate (it wouldn´t shut) I found out that the lock somehow got stuck and didn´t "grab" the loop that would hold shut the tailgate. So removed the lock assembly, rinsed in brake cleaner, oiled it up and it worked again.
Then aligning the tailgate worked, finally.
Richard had sent me a refurbished valve block but since the tailgate didn´t close, the EAS wouldn´t work. So now the new valve block works beautifully, no leaks, no sinking overnight, quick height changes, finally all as it should be. Thanks again to Richard for saving another P38 !
Thanks, I´ll try that.
I finally changed the upper tailgate which was very very rusty, found a mathcing one a couple of years ago.
Went fine although changing it alone was tricky (balancing it on my head while fumbling to find the screwholes without seeing them) but now it doesn´t shut properly most of the time. I know the screwholes are variable and it seemed to sit fine according to the vague RAVE instructions and that the look that goes into the lock is movable too but I can´t get it adjusted that it will always shut tight.
Also tried loosening the "lock loop" and then shutting the tailgate for it to position itself properly and then screwing it tight but that didn´t work either.
Any hints ?
Finally got my MOT done yesterday (the german equivalent), yay !
Luckily the tester is a friend of mine (but very thorough) so the leaking eas valve block officially wasn´t an issue....He knows that if I say I´ll take care of it, I will. I just had to start the engine a couple of times in between when I saw that the car started sinking down....!
Thanks to Richard that problem will be gone soon too !
It was running a tiny bit too lean to pass the emission test but holding the exhaust pipes closed with paper towels did the trick....
Only advisories were Oily engine, rusty exhaust from the outside and brake disks a bit rusty (it sat for a year)
Glad I got it on the road again, while it sat waiting for a new flex plate I wasn´t sure if I would have the stamina for it...
That's what I believe too.
Even though the engine looks a lot wetter from underneath than just a litre....
At the MOT yesterday the tester looked at it and said "Oh, quite dry for a British engine" :-D