If it´s of any help, the CO2 emission of a 1998 4,6 (Euro 2) is 414 g/km according to my german car papers...
I often had a little spark cross between the data socket and the plug when connenting the nanocom that way. If you connect it fast enough it usually works, but many times it blew the fuse.
On my Nanocom now also the power input via the data socket doesn´t work anymore, same as the round co-ax pin. Both blown. Now the only power source left is the usb on the other side...but to get it repaired I´d have to send it to Cyprus....
OK, sounds like a good plan.
Thanks for the cue, forgot to change the permissions....^^
as if the "To Do" List wouldn´t be long enought, I had vibrations for some months and loud noises when starting.
Looks like the Flex Plate has shifted / broken / whatever:
It seems to have "eaten" its way into the flywheel a bit.
Just change the flex plate and leave the flywheel?
I read that it could be done with "just" shifting the Transmission backwards.
Thanks and greetings,
Hm. I´m sure it´s the pads, I can wiggle them back and forth in the caliper with my hand and replicate the noise....
I have a rattling noise at the rear axle when going over bumps, stops when I press the brake pedal.
Found that the rear brake pads are slightly loose when the brake is not pressed.
Do they have any additional anti-rattle pads other that the spring at the small rear-side of the pads?
My parts dealer has listed two different ones, one for "Lockheed" brakes:
and one for "ATE" brakes:
I can´t make out any Brand on the caliper since the casing is so rusty and can´t see which set would fit.
Any ideas ?
Sealing the top of the Windscreen didn´t seem to help...:-(
Might have to really check with a water hose...something I can do with help from the kids :-)
I lifted up the strip on the roof and it looked OK underneath...
Thanks for the explanation, and what does the "passive immobiliser" do ? (the one which can be deactivated vie the Nanocom ?
So, just for my understanding, the P38 does not have the "immobiliser" which consists of a small transponder in the key case and a pickup coil around the ingnition key slot ?
Yeah, right, but the lights go on when I open any of the other doors.
Just not the driver (LH) door....
Yes, I agree in that it looks like water condensing on the cold roof metal.
But the "wetness" of that area is so dynamic in that it will be totally dry when there has been no rain for a while and then soaking wet immediately after strong rain. And the more it rains the further the wetness creeps towards the middle of the roof, strting from the corner. And why would it only condense only in that small area and nowhere else ?
I have now removed the A-pillar trim and the windscreen top finisher (which would impossible to figure out how, if one didn´t know the trick) and have put a bead of silicone (ran out of caravan sealant) around the corner of the windscreen.
Let´s see if that changes anything, lots of rain forecast for the next days....
I also like the idea of having a spare key hidden somewhere on the car but I never did it because it would be missing the transponder for the immobiliser...did you get one and attach it to the spare one or did you disable the immobiliser....?
Is there a way to remove the top windscreen and A-pillar trim without breaking it to maybe reseal that area ?
as Brian said, if you cut all the wires you would not have the petrol injectors connected to the engine ECU any more since they get wired through the LPG ECU when installed. That is how the ECU measures the petrol injection time.
I would just remove the cable going into the fusebox (+ve feed) and leave the ECU and cables as they are. You can of course remove the cables leading to the hardware lpg components that you are removing.
another problem which is gettings worse as the rainy season in northern germany is gettings stronger:
The headlining (re-clothed by be about 1 year ago) is wet at the front left (driver) corner, from door side of A-pillat upte the middle where the lamp is. So the whole strip behind the sunvisor. Sometimes dry (when weather good) sometimes damp, or when really raining, soaking wet with occasional drips.
I checked the sunroof drain, it are free of debris, transport water and is tightly attached. All tested.
I lifted up the cover of the foor rack attachment points, all good there.
I stuck the rubber door seal (in the corner between A-Pillar and roof) which one sees when door open back onto the metal body.
Couls it be a bead sealing of the windscreen ? I have no other idea.
Here some photos I just made looseing the headliner in that corner:
a sidekick of my EAS problems is this:
Nanocom tells me this:
in EAS/Inputs Menu: it does not say that the driver (LH) door opens. All others are recorded correctly. Therefore EAS continues to level with that door open.
in BECM/Inputs Menu: it records correctly that the driver door is opened (12V->GND). All others too. But the interior lights do not go on. But with the other doors.
How can that be?
Microswitch in door must be OK. And EAS ECU gets that info from the BECM, but the information is lost....?
One thing I would like to add:
The ride state "levelling" which in my case occurs while driving and sends the car to the bump stops (preceeded by the stae "ECU wakeup"), is the state the EAS system is in when ignition is ON but engine OFF.
So would that be the state of "self-levelling" which occurs every couple of hours?
That could mean only two things:
Either there is some impulse from the delay timer relay to the ECU while driving (which would be some kind of fault in the timer circuit) OR the EAS ECU has some kind of fault going into that state uncommanded.
I still have the faint theory that the ECU is behaving erraticly and is therefore faulty.
But of course I am hoping tightening the 13-way connector in the EAS box cured the problem.
As long as the system works fine I don´t care how weirdly the ECU is behaving internally...sounds very human to me :-.)
@Pete reassuring to know the system can work perfectly with the "invalid fault code"
Hi just wanted to give a small update:
I tightened the connector pin sockets in the 13-Pin Connector which is in the EAS Box.
I didn´t mechanically check if they were loose, but I could see that the sockets were not too tight.
The drove for about an hour, logging all the data, no umcommanded height changes, system operating as intended.
Then went through all the log thoroughly and found the actual heights to be much closer to the target heights than before, also the rear left (which was mostly too high in all of the states) is now reigned in and much closer to the other corners.
There is still, though, the "invalid fault code", (which remains after clearing) but if that is what it needs to function properly then the system may happily keep it :-)
I am still only cautiously optimistic as I have had periods of error-free driving before but it would be great if that trick worked. I will continue to monitor the situation and give feedback here.
I will start another thread for the "door ajar" mismatch between EAS ECU and BECM, (and other woes), I guess for future reference it is best not to mix up topics too much in one thread....