I have had very similar issues, exactly the same symtoms.
Haven´t pinpointed it to rain or moisture though...
But I soldered all the connectors behind both panels and it didn´t make a difference in my case....are there any other connectors ?

Thanks for taking the time to check that on your vehicle !

I didn´t remove the fuel rail from the inlet manifold or the injectors at the time, just the fuel line connections at the accumulator and beside that, going to the pressure regulator. There are also no leaks anywhere, no smell of petrol either.
Could try to loosen and retighten those connections in case air does come in, but I guess at 35 psi there would be fuel oozing out if they weren´t tighty sealed.
The only thing that makes sense to me would be that the non-return valve in the pump died in a freak coincidence, I could order a separate one (they are cheap) and try to install it to see if that makes it better (where would be a good place to put it, it has connections for flexible fule hoses, and come in various diameters...?).

SInce I heard that some of the latest X8R O-Ring kits do not fit I have postponed my block rebuild.
Luckily I heard about it before starting, that would have left my car unusable for an unknown amount of time....especially since the alternative companies are all not in Germany,,,,
I have written X8R to clarify if my set is also affected but no answer....

Hi,
I ordered a fuel pressure gauge only to find out that it didn´t fit so I used the tyre pressure gauge and that worked fine.
Pressure was zero when I started, car had only been standing a couple of hours, there didn´t even come any fuel out of the shrader valve when I poked it with a screwdriver.
As soon as ignition was on, pressure rose to around 35 psi, when engine was running about 30 psi (or other way around). Opening the throttle increased the pressure. So I guess fuel pump is fine.
But as soon as I turned off the ignition the pressure fell to zero again within seconds. Did this repeatedly with always the same result.
So I guess some sort of non-return valve doesn´t work, apparently it is situated by the fuel pump....
Since getting to the pump seems somewhat complicated, are there any non-return valves that one could put into the system ?
Or any other ideas ?
BTW, what is that 90 degree-metal-thing on the right end of the rail ? Also looks like some kind of pressure reducer...?
Thanks, Max.

Hi,
I had to disconnent the fuel rail when I was installing the LPG system and since I put everything back together again, the engine will take quite some cranking to fire up (on fuel).
Before it was instant. If I leave the key in ignition a couple of seconds it it much better, but still worse than before. Feels like the fuel rail is empty at startup.
I checked for fuel leaks at the rail but found none.
Did I miss something while re-assembling the rail ?
Is there a non-return-valve that can break ?
And do I need a special fuel pressure gauge to measure the fuel pressure at the schrader valve or can I take an air gauge...?!?
Any hints are appreciated,
Max.
EDIT: I just remembered that there seems to be quite a pressure build-up in the fuel tank, when I remove the filler cap there is a strong blow of air from the tank for several seconds...came up at a similar time, maybe it is related...?

These are great hints, guys.
I guess I´ll try not to do it when I have to finish in a certain amount of time !

I also though of doing one valve at a time to avoid any confusion.
Any drawbacks with that other than not being able to clean the whole block through at once ?

I also noticed that the insulation of the orange wire that leads to the compressor has melted a bit and the connector also a bit melted and black. What does that mean ?

Perfect. Thanks for the hints !

Hello,
I wanted to refurbish my EAS valve block and the compressor piston & seal.
I have the material here (X8R) and there are many good manuals around. But they never say how long it takes approx.
How much time should I calculate for this ? Would like to know so I can forsee how long the Range will be out of order sinve I use it every day... 3-4 hours ?
I have never done it before but have all the tools and am crafty enough to know what I am doing (hopefully :-)).
greetings,
Max.

Now that is irony for you :-)
OK, thanks for the infos, I had assumed something like that, also seeing the 400000.0 avatar here and on .net.
Even though I like the internationality of .net, I, as a journalist see freedom of speech (and strong emotions need strong diction) as way more important and will therefore rather spend my time (and questions :-)) here. Hopefully more like-minded people will move here...
greetings and thanks for the welcome,
Max.

Hello everyone,
I´m Max from Germany and since 1 year owner of a '98 RR 4.6.
I always wanted one and then had the chance to get one cheply from a friend
Converted it to LPG and am now slowly getting rid of all the little faults and "specialities" this car has.
I do everything myself on my cars and thanks to this and the .net forum I can build on the wealth of information and hints from the RR community ! Very helpful !!
By the way, are this and the .net forum in any way competitors or what is the difference between them ?
greetings,
Max.

Brilliant ! That was it, finally wirks as it should....
Many thanks !

Hello everyone,
Sinve I have had the car (1 year) I have to open and close the car with the key since the previous owner deactivated the alarm / remote system for whatever reasons.
Now I made most systems (except alarm) acive again but when I open/close the car via remote the driver door (LHD) does not open or close, all others including tailgate do.
I replaced the motor in the driver lock with one from a used rear lock, but that made no difference.
Opening/closing with key is fine. Sill switch works too.
Nanocom confirms that ajar switch works, cdl switch works and key switch works.
When I activate the locking mechanism via Nanocoms BECM / Outputs section I can also lock and unlock the driver door, so the motor must be working. BUT the functions are reverse, so when i activate the LOCK output, the door unlocks and vice versa.
Is that a Nanocom speciality like the way it confuses the blend motor sides left/right in the HEVAC section or is there an internal fault ?
Any advices are very welcome !
greetings,
Max.