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Hi,
as if the "To Do" List wouldn´t be long enought, I had vibrations for some months and loud noises when starting.
Looks like the Flex Plate has shifted / broken / whatever:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IHEbqieghzBhnFEapoqegqmkltUEYkbc
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rxsjmXUk_gFJNldT5QKpXgMvZg8KabT_
It seems to have "eaten" its way into the flywheel a bit.
Just change the flex plate and leave the flywheel?
I read that it could be done with "just" shifting the Transmission backwards.
Any hints/thoughts?
Thanks and greetings,
Max.

Hi,
I have a rattling noise at the rear axle when going over bumps, stops when I press the brake pedal.
Found that the rear brake pads are slightly loose when the brake is not pressed.
Do they have any additional anti-rattle pads other that the spring at the small rear-side of the pads?

My parts dealer has listed two different ones, one for "Lockheed" brakes:
https://www.wagner-autoteile.de/zubehorsatz-scheibenbremsbelag-delphi-lx0023--286357
and one for "ATE" brakes:
https://www.wagner-autoteile.de/zubehorsatz-scheibenbremsbelag-delphi-lx0295--285897

I can´t make out any Brand on the caliper since the casing is so rusty and can´t see which set would fit.
Any ideas ?
Thanks.
greetings, Max.

Hello,

another problem which is gettings worse as the rainy season in northern germany is gettings stronger:

The headlining (re-clothed by be about 1 year ago) is wet at the front left (driver) corner, from door side of A-pillat upte the middle where the lamp is. So the whole strip behind the sunvisor. Sometimes dry (when weather good) sometimes damp, or when really raining, soaking wet with occasional drips.

I checked the sunroof drain, it are free of debris, transport water and is tightly attached. All tested.
I lifted up the cover of the foor rack attachment points, all good there.
I stuck the rubber door seal (in the corner between A-Pillar and roof) which one sees when door open back onto the metal body.

Couls it be a bead sealing of the windscreen ? I have no other idea.

Here some photos I just made looseing the headliner in that corner:

enter image description here
enter image description here
enter image description here

greetings, Max.

Hello,
a sidekick of my EAS problems is this:

Nanocom tells me this:

in EAS/Inputs Menu: it does not say that the driver (LH) door opens. All others are recorded correctly. Therefore EAS continues to level with that door open.
in BECM/Inputs Menu: it records correctly that the driver door is opened (12V->GND). All others too. But the interior lights do not go on. But with the other doors.

How can that be?

Microswitch in door must be OK. And EAS ECU gets that info from the BECM, but the information is lost....?

greetings, Max.

Hello,
My EAS is giving me problems and I don´t know how to proceed further. I would be great if I could get some hints....I have read about every manual, document tand internet post there is for the EAS but I am at a loss now....

Since I have the car (2 years) it will rise to high without me commanding it. Sometimes every couple of minutes, sometimes once a month. Also when the inhibit switch is on. I could usually tell it to go down again, It would also give me faults (usually "pressure switch open") with the same regularity. I have a Nanocom.

I removed both multi-connectors behind the left and right kick panels and soldered them. They still look dry and fine. No change in behaviour.
Car will not lose height overnight, but will often be too low at rear left (new airbag) when I park. I replaced both left airbags when I got the car, of the remaining ones 1 looks like new, the other OK.

Since a couple of months the usual fault changed to "invalid fault code" which I can clear but will come back regularly, sometimes doing nothing, sometimes leading to soft fault, sometimes to hard fault. Usually when the fault comes the car will be high at the back and low at the front...

Compressor was loud for some time but is quiet again now and works well (fills empty system in under 5 minutes). The green/purple cable leading to the compressor was burnt at the connector but still worked, fixed that.
I just refurbished the valve block but that made no difference other than now the rear left, which was usually to low when i park, is now too high.

Other new observations:
Compressor will run even when engine is off.
Height will change even when door is open ! That is new. But Nanocom confirms that door is open, so no lock switch fault...

I can switch on/off all valves with nanocom and hear them engage.

All that comes to my mind now would be the ECU or the driver pack.....any ideas or further questions would be very welcome before I lose faith in this wonderful car....

greetings, Max.

Hello, back again after some months...
I had repaired a blend motor a year back, but now the distribution stopped working and the right hand side only blows hot, and I have fault "right blend motor short to positive".
Had a new set of Valeo motors here so wanted to put them all in to have some peace....
Before ripping the old ones out I wanted to check the new ones so plugged them in (without installing them yet) but still the book symbol comes on after 1 sec. and the same fault appears !
Tried clearing fault with Nanocom but comes back (or rather stays). Tried the 10 sec. remove plug trick but comes back.
I even tried a different HEVAC Unit but the same thing happens so it can´t be the connectors either...So two motor sets and two HEVAC nits in any combination......
I am now at loss what the hell that could be...something in the loom to the HEVAC.....????
Help and hints are greatly appreciated, I am slowly going insane with that car....

Hi,
I changed the oil on my 4.6, since I only own it for one year it was the first time since it was fresh when I bought the car.
There was 10W40 in the engine before, don´t know which brand. Then I changed it to 10W40 Castrol GTX Ultraclean.
Since then the oil consumption has gone up quite a bit, before I rarely had to top up, now it uses up to 1 litre per 500km if I drive highway speed, normal driving less.
How can that be ? I also observe that the oil is quite black already even though I already "topped up" 5-7 litres in total, so nearly a second oil change by now ;-)
Is it the cleaning properties that make that difference ? Any other ideas ?
I can´t see any obvoius leaks and the engine has run 257,000 km...
Thanky in advance,
Max.

Hi,
I had to disconnent the fuel rail when I was installing the LPG system and since I put everything back together again, the engine will take quite some cranking to fire up (on fuel).
Before it was instant. If I leave the key in ignition a couple of seconds it it much better, but still worse than before. Feels like the fuel rail is empty at startup.
I checked for fuel leaks at the rail but found none.
Did I miss something while re-assembling the rail ?
Is there a non-return-valve that can break ?
And do I need a special fuel pressure gauge to measure the fuel pressure at the schrader valve or can I take an air gauge...?!?
Any hints are appreciated,
Max.
EDIT: I just remembered that there seems to be quite a pressure build-up in the fuel tank, when I remove the filler cap there is a strong blow of air from the tank for several seconds...came up at a similar time, maybe it is related...?

Hello,
I wanted to refurbish my EAS valve block and the compressor piston & seal.
I have the material here (X8R) and there are many good manuals around. But they never say how long it takes approx.
How much time should I calculate for this ? Would like to know so I can forsee how long the Range will be out of order sinve I use it every day... 3-4 hours ?
I have never done it before but have all the tools and am crafty enough to know what I am doing (hopefully :-)).
greetings,
Max.

Hello everyone,
I´m Max from Germany and since 1 year owner of a '98 RR 4.6.
I always wanted one and then had the chance to get one cheply from a friend
Converted it to LPG and am now slowly getting rid of all the little faults and "specialities" this car has.
I do everything myself on my cars and thanks to this and the .net forum I can build on the wealth of information and hints from the RR community ! Very helpful !!
By the way, are this and the .net forum in any way competitors or what is the difference between them ?
greetings,
Max.

Hello everyone,
Sinve I have had the car (1 year) I have to open and close the car with the key since the previous owner deactivated the alarm / remote system for whatever reasons.
Now I made most systems (except alarm) acive again but when I open/close the car via remote the driver door (LHD) does not open or close, all others including tailgate do.
I replaced the motor in the driver lock with one from a used rear lock, but that made no difference.
Opening/closing with key is fine. Sill switch works too.
Nanocom confirms that ajar switch works, cdl switch works and key switch works.
When I activate the locking mechanism via Nanocoms BECM / Outputs section I can also lock and unlock the driver door, so the motor must be working. BUT the functions are reverse, so when i activate the LOCK output, the door unlocks and vice versa.
Is that a Nanocom speciality like the way it confuses the blend motor sides left/right in the HEVAC section or is there an internal fault ?
Any advices are very welcome !
greetings,
Max.