Hi,
I ordered a fuel pressure gauge only to find out that it didn´t fit so I used the tyre pressure gauge and that worked fine.
Pressure was zero when I started, car had only been standing a couple of hours, there didn´t even come any fuel out of the shrader valve when I poked it with a screwdriver.
As soon as ignition was on, pressure rose to around 35 psi, when engine was running about 30 psi (or other way around). Opening the throttle increased the pressure. So I guess fuel pump is fine.
But as soon as I turned off the ignition the pressure fell to zero again within seconds. Did this repeatedly with always the same result.
So I guess some sort of non-return valve doesn´t work, apparently it is situated by the fuel pump....
Since getting to the pump seems somewhat complicated, are there any non-return valves that one could put into the system ?
Or any other ideas ?
BTW, what is that 90 degree-metal-thing on the right end of the rail ? Also looks like some kind of pressure reducer...?
Thanks, Max.

Hi,
I had to disconnent the fuel rail when I was installing the LPG system and since I put everything back together again, the engine will take quite some cranking to fire up (on fuel).
Before it was instant. If I leave the key in ignition a couple of seconds it it much better, but still worse than before. Feels like the fuel rail is empty at startup.
I checked for fuel leaks at the rail but found none.
Did I miss something while re-assembling the rail ?
Is there a non-return-valve that can break ?
And do I need a special fuel pressure gauge to measure the fuel pressure at the schrader valve or can I take an air gauge...?!?
Any hints are appreciated,
Max.
EDIT: I just remembered that there seems to be quite a pressure build-up in the fuel tank, when I remove the filler cap there is a strong blow of air from the tank for several seconds...came up at a similar time, maybe it is related...?

These are great hints, guys.
I guess I´ll try not to do it when I have to finish in a certain amount of time !

I also though of doing one valve at a time to avoid any confusion.
Any drawbacks with that other than not being able to clean the whole block through at once ?

I also noticed that the insulation of the orange wire that leads to the compressor has melted a bit and the connector also a bit melted and black. What does that mean ?

Perfect. Thanks for the hints !

Hello,
I wanted to refurbish my EAS valve block and the compressor piston & seal.
I have the material here (X8R) and there are many good manuals around. But they never say how long it takes approx.
How much time should I calculate for this ? Would like to know so I can forsee how long the Range will be out of order sinve I use it every day... 3-4 hours ?
I have never done it before but have all the tools and am crafty enough to know what I am doing (hopefully :-)).
greetings,
Max.

Now that is irony for you :-)
OK, thanks for the infos, I had assumed something like that, also seeing the 400000.0 avatar here and on .net.
Even though I like the internationality of .net, I, as a journalist see freedom of speech (and strong emotions need strong diction) as way more important and will therefore rather spend my time (and questions :-)) here. Hopefully more like-minded people will move here...
greetings and thanks for the welcome,
Max.

Hello everyone,
I´m Max from Germany and since 1 year owner of a '98 RR 4.6.
I always wanted one and then had the chance to get one cheply from a friend
Converted it to LPG and am now slowly getting rid of all the little faults and "specialities" this car has.
I do everything myself on my cars and thanks to this and the .net forum I can build on the wealth of information and hints from the RR community ! Very helpful !!
By the way, are this and the .net forum in any way competitors or what is the difference between them ?
greetings,
Max.

Brilliant ! That was it, finally wirks as it should....
Many thanks !

Hello everyone,
Sinve I have had the car (1 year) I have to open and close the car with the key since the previous owner deactivated the alarm / remote system for whatever reasons.
Now I made most systems (except alarm) acive again but when I open/close the car via remote the driver door (LHD) does not open or close, all others including tailgate do.
I replaced the motor in the driver lock with one from a used rear lock, but that made no difference.
Opening/closing with key is fine. Sill switch works too.
Nanocom confirms that ajar switch works, cdl switch works and key switch works.
When I activate the locking mechanism via Nanocoms BECM / Outputs section I can also lock and unlock the driver door, so the motor must be working. BUT the functions are reverse, so when i activate the LOCK output, the door unlocks and vice versa.
Is that a Nanocom speciality like the way it confuses the blend motor sides left/right in the HEVAC section or is there an internal fault ?
Any advices are very welcome !
greetings,
Max.