I measured the resistance across brown and black, so the motor itself.
Till now the fault has not re-appeared....
I´m near Hamburg, so up north :-)

Hello everyone,
Thanks for all the input, I managed to solve the problem but am not entirely sure why....
I measured the resistance across each motor and one (the right blend motor that was giving me the errors) stood out with different values than the others and also the new ones.
So I depinned the connector, left the left blend motor in and installed two new right motors and the new connector.
Then the book symbol disappeared.
After calibrating the motors and testing their movement with Nanocom I reassembled everything and now everything works fine.
I just hope it stays this way but not knowing exactly WHY it now works doesn´t give me much confidence that the problem will be solved forever....
The p38 is really a Zen master putting ones faith to the test..............
Thanks for the input !
Max.

Hi, thanks for the quick response...
The motors don´t move every time when I turn the ignition, neither the old nor the new. Only around every tenth time or so only one motor will move a little. Onyl once all three moved but only a few seconds. Seems random...
EDIT: Also the book symbol always comes on about half a second after the HEVAC powers up....

Hello, back again after some months...
I had repaired a blend motor a year back, but now the distribution stopped working and the right hand side only blows hot, and I have fault "right blend motor short to positive".
Had a new set of Valeo motors here so wanted to put them all in to have some peace....
Before ripping the old ones out I wanted to check the new ones so plugged them in (without installing them yet) but still the book symbol comes on after 1 sec. and the same fault appears !
Tried clearing fault with Nanocom but comes back (or rather stays). Tried the 10 sec. remove plug trick but comes back.
I even tried a different HEVAC Unit but the same thing happens so it can´t be the connectors either...So two motor sets and two HEVAC nits in any combination......
I am now at loss what the hell that could be...something in the loom to the HEVAC.....????
Help and hints are greatly appreciated, I am slowly going insane with that car....

Thanks, I found one of these and they fit well.
https://postimg.cc/rKNV3s0S

Now it looks like this, found a ground nearby and protected the wires with fabriccoated fuel hose...
https://postimg.cc/nMQMRnGk

Edit: Inserted different new links to the photos that now work....

Hi,
I have a similar issue, my temp gauge is also fluctuating around quite a bit and mostly shows cold when the Nanocom shows a steady 89 C.
Cleaned up the earths an connenctions but didn´t make it better.
But since the 2-wire sensor AMR5929 does not seem to be available anywhere at all and any similar replacement I can find here in Germany has metric threads, I decided to try the older 1-wire Sensor AMR 1425, which works great. Fits physically and shows correct readings.
I connected the earth from the 2-wire plug to an earth by the engine and the other to the sensor, but at the moment only with small crocodile test leads to see if that works.
Does anyone know where I can get the 1-wire plug from for that sensor ? I couln´t find it anywhere and looks like a smaller version of a spark plug connector....

Hi,
I changed the oil on my 4.6, since I only own it for one year it was the first time since it was fresh when I bought the car.
There was 10W40 in the engine before, don´t know which brand. Then I changed it to 10W40 Castrol GTX Ultraclean.
Since then the oil consumption has gone up quite a bit, before I rarely had to top up, now it uses up to 1 litre per 500km if I drive highway speed, normal driving less.
How can that be ? I also observe that the oil is quite black already even though I already "topped up" 5-7 litres in total, so nearly a second oil change by now ;-)
Is it the cleaning properties that make that difference ? Any other ideas ?
I can´t see any obvoius leaks and the engine has run 257,000 km...
Thanky in advance,
Max.

Now I´m confused. in the "other" forum someone said the O-Rings that were affected in the X8R Kit were:
"The larger orings on the bottom of the solenoids which seal it to the block and the other at the base of the stem which seal it to the cover. (Not the oring on the stem)"
X8R themselves said they know nothing from no-one that there are wrong kit being delivered and no-one has contacted them because of this.
I want to avoid dismantling the block and fionding out in trial and error that some rings fit and others don´t.
I also don´t want to throw the kit away and order another different one....
Does anyone have dimensions of all the rings so I could check my kit ? Or any other solution ?
Thanks in advance,
Max.

I have had very similar issues, exactly the same symtoms.
Haven´t pinpointed it to rain or moisture though...
But I soldered all the connectors behind both panels and it didn´t make a difference in my case....are there any other connectors ?

Thanks for taking the time to check that on your vehicle !

I didn´t remove the fuel rail from the inlet manifold or the injectors at the time, just the fuel line connections at the accumulator and beside that, going to the pressure regulator. There are also no leaks anywhere, no smell of petrol either.
Could try to loosen and retighten those connections in case air does come in, but I guess at 35 psi there would be fuel oozing out if they weren´t tighty sealed.
The only thing that makes sense to me would be that the non-return valve in the pump died in a freak coincidence, I could order a separate one (they are cheap) and try to install it to see if that makes it better (where would be a good place to put it, it has connections for flexible fule hoses, and come in various diameters...?).

SInce I heard that some of the latest X8R O-Ring kits do not fit I have postponed my block rebuild.
Luckily I heard about it before starting, that would have left my car unusable for an unknown amount of time....especially since the alternative companies are all not in Germany,,,,
I have written X8R to clarify if my set is also affected but no answer....

Hi,
I ordered a fuel pressure gauge only to find out that it didn´t fit so I used the tyre pressure gauge and that worked fine.
Pressure was zero when I started, car had only been standing a couple of hours, there didn´t even come any fuel out of the shrader valve when I poked it with a screwdriver.
As soon as ignition was on, pressure rose to around 35 psi, when engine was running about 30 psi (or other way around). Opening the throttle increased the pressure. So I guess fuel pump is fine.
But as soon as I turned off the ignition the pressure fell to zero again within seconds. Did this repeatedly with always the same result.
So I guess some sort of non-return valve doesn´t work, apparently it is situated by the fuel pump....
Since getting to the pump seems somewhat complicated, are there any non-return valves that one could put into the system ?
Or any other ideas ?
BTW, what is that 90 degree-metal-thing on the right end of the rail ? Also looks like some kind of pressure reducer...?
Thanks, Max.

Hi,
I had to disconnent the fuel rail when I was installing the LPG system and since I put everything back together again, the engine will take quite some cranking to fire up (on fuel).
Before it was instant. If I leave the key in ignition a couple of seconds it it much better, but still worse than before. Feels like the fuel rail is empty at startup.
I checked for fuel leaks at the rail but found none.
Did I miss something while re-assembling the rail ?
Is there a non-return-valve that can break ?
And do I need a special fuel pressure gauge to measure the fuel pressure at the schrader valve or can I take an air gauge...?!?
Any hints are appreciated,
Max.
EDIT: I just remembered that there seems to be quite a pressure build-up in the fuel tank, when I remove the filler cap there is a strong blow of air from the tank for several seconds...came up at a similar time, maybe it is related...?

These are great hints, guys.
I guess I´ll try not to do it when I have to finish in a certain amount of time !

I also though of doing one valve at a time to avoid any confusion.
Any drawbacks with that other than not being able to clean the whole block through at once ?

I also noticed that the insulation of the orange wire that leads to the compressor has melted a bit and the connector also a bit melted and black. What does that mean ?

Perfect. Thanks for the hints !

Hello,
I wanted to refurbish my EAS valve block and the compressor piston & seal.
I have the material here (X8R) and there are many good manuals around. But they never say how long it takes approx.
How much time should I calculate for this ? Would like to know so I can forsee how long the Range will be out of order sinve I use it every day... 3-4 hours ?
I have never done it before but have all the tools and am crafty enough to know what I am doing (hopefully :-)).
greetings,
Max.

Now that is irony for you :-)
OK, thanks for the infos, I had assumed something like that, also seeing the 400000.0 avatar here and on .net.
Even though I like the internationality of .net, I, as a journalist see freedom of speech (and strong emotions need strong diction) as way more important and will therefore rather spend my time (and questions :-)) here. Hopefully more like-minded people will move here...
greetings and thanks for the welcome,
Max.

Hello everyone,
I´m Max from Germany and since 1 year owner of a '98 RR 4.6.
I always wanted one and then had the chance to get one cheply from a friend
Converted it to LPG and am now slowly getting rid of all the little faults and "specialities" this car has.
I do everything myself on my cars and thanks to this and the .net forum I can build on the wealth of information and hints from the RR community ! Very helpful !!
By the way, are this and the .net forum in any way competitors or what is the difference between them ?
greetings,
Max.

Brilliant ! That was it, finally wirks as it should....
Many thanks !

Hello everyone,
Sinve I have had the car (1 year) I have to open and close the car with the key since the previous owner deactivated the alarm / remote system for whatever reasons.
Now I made most systems (except alarm) acive again but when I open/close the car via remote the driver door (LHD) does not open or close, all others including tailgate do.
I replaced the motor in the driver lock with one from a used rear lock, but that made no difference.
Opening/closing with key is fine. Sill switch works too.
Nanocom confirms that ajar switch works, cdl switch works and key switch works.
When I activate the locking mechanism via Nanocoms BECM / Outputs section I can also lock and unlock the driver door, so the motor must be working. BUT the functions are reverse, so when i activate the LOCK output, the door unlocks and vice versa.
Is that a Nanocom speciality like the way it confuses the blend motor sides left/right in the HEVAC section or is there an internal fault ?
Any advices are very welcome !
greetings,
Max.