I had the last O-Ring set from X8R, but heard some comments that they are not always perfect anymore. Does it make sense to redo the overhaul? How are the experiences with 4x4airseals?
Or could something else be the problem?
The square seals unter the solenoids are just for dust, aren't they ?

Must admit I hadn't tested that thoroughly when I overhauled the block, so could have been leaking some time...barely drove it afterwards...

Hab some more small things to do before I finally drive the car to TÜV (german for MOT), adjust the handbrake, got the headlight wipers going again (fuse blown due to being stuck because on non usage for a year), changed a rear airbag that was leaking (production date 44/08). Thought that now the EAS should be behaving better. Did a leak check with soapy water but found the solenoid casings leaking.

See photo:
"https://c.web.de/%40337510546125364120/J_0TKZf264G4s5aX7PzIqQ"
I had overhauled the valve block about a year ago before it sat there beacuse of the flex plate....

Then 2 weeks ago I saw that the front solenoid was leaking so I removed the valve block and saw that the thin o-ring was not seated right, changed it for the old ones I had kept and checked all other o-rings for correct seating.

Now this - all top solenoids leaking !

Should I get a complete new set and to the overhaul again or could it be something else...?

I actually had that already....!
After I finally changed the flex-plate and ran the engine for the first time it ran for about 15 minutes before it just died. Thought there was no petrol left as it had been sitting for a while on reserve and I had no idea how much was in the tank. Went to the petrol station, got some petrol, still no running engine.
Did all kind of fault-finding for hours, thought the fuel pump died because of running dry.
Finally had a look at the CPS and saw that the metal tip was gone...sheared off by the tags on the flywheel...! Ordered a new CPS, bent the tag that had the corresponding marks on it back into place and it went again.
I also had another look at the CPS again - because the sound does sound a bit louder from the bottom - but it was undamaged. Can the tags hit anything else down there...?

I put in an engine cleaning agent, let it idle 15 min., did oil and filter change (Oil was so black as I only see it when changing oil on a diesel engine) put new 15W-50 oil in and added an oil additive especially for noisy lifters. Still sounds exactly the same.
But it needed a change anyway and from what I here here I shouldn´t worry to much about it.
I also feel a slight roughness/coughing every couple of seconds (did that before too). Could that be from a worn cam too...?
Is it possible to run the engine without valve covers or would that make an oil mess...?
It´s weird having such a smooth engine but then having to put up with such quirks....but then again, as long as it runs OK....:-)

I also have no Idea how much mileage the engine has, the odometer says 278.000 km but the prevoius ownder said the engine was replaced once and the km on the odometer are the kms the engine did, the car has more...but it doesn´make sense to me how that can be done....

Maybe I'll do a flush before change and then some additive afterwards, found one especially for noisy lifters....usually don't believe in magic potions but what have I to lose ...:-)

OK, thanks for the pointer in a direction. Does it make sense that they tick when warm ? I only knew it the other way round.
Oil I use is a 15w-50, but it's been in there a while...
Maybe a flush with a solvent and then oil change...?
Would like not to tear apart everything again, especially as I have the LPG setup on the inlet manifold...
Does driving with a sticky lifter do any harm ?
But I am happy that it does not seem to be a slipped liner, I don't think I would rectify that anymore .
Greetings,
Max.

Good evening.
I am finally back in the P38 game after taking nearly a year to replace my shattered flex-plate. I also had some "ticking" sound from a hole in the exhaust manifold, got that welded too.
Since this car is constantly testing my faith, now I have a new sound ^^.
When engine is cold it sounds fine, when it warms up there is a ticking sound, coming from the middle of the engine. I have used a mechanics' stethosope to find the sound but it sounds the same everywhere. Up, down, left right. Sound very central like where the camshaft is. It is also about 6 times a second, so quite exactly half the RPM, so camshaft speed.
Any ideas please what that could be ? I was already fearing the liners.....
I have attached a sound file, first couple seconds engine cold, then engine warm.....
greetings,
Max.
https://c.web.de/@337510546125364120/wG6ArPRS8KkJ1kI5dHarGA
(you have to mark the whole link and then paste into browser...don´t know how to do it better...)

Yeah, that's true...!

Whew, finally made it.
Flex plate was in 10 pieces, got it out and the new one in, now the whole procedure in reverse...
Thanks for the help, still more things to fix....

Finally made it. Was a real fight with the bolts and myself and the car.....had to have a serious word with Rangie, if it refuses to give me the bellhousing bolts I would have to make it see its creator....that seemed to work :-)
I can see the parts of the flex plate now and can change it.
While I am there I wanted to check the output shaft seal, but am I right to assume that if the "flywheel" and ringgear is clean and dry that I do not need to change it? The engine is very oily but the inside of the bellhousing is clean...

OK, sounds like a Plan.
Will report.

Good news: I found a metal work shop that welded my manifold for small money.

Other news: Flex plate is still not out, I am highly motivated to get the range on the road again but it keeps showing me the middle finger, it´s becoming a do or die kind of thing. And I would prefer to do.

But I need some consolation and advice for this mission because It´s very steep uphill for me.

Meanwhile I ordered a heavy duty flex plate from ashcroft instead of the chaep one I have here because I definately will not do this work ever again in this life.

So I habe the flex bolts out that go to the TC, have removed the bellhousing screws except for the top ones because I have found no way possible to get at them, regardelss of how many extensions and flex joints I use. I have read it would be easier if I lower the engine a bit so since I have to undo the engine mounts anyway I proceeded with this. Right side no problem as manifold was removed anyway but left side I can not access the screws so that I can put the force to it that I seemingly need. A socket will not fit straight onto the nut and with a spanner I could not loosen it, too tight. Front screw is now also a bit worn. Any ideas ? Please don´t say remove manifold shield and manifold...

https://c.web.de/@337510546125364120/yvh_0KBVTYms79Yt-neskw

I hope to find some motivating help on this flex plate journey, otherwise I an not sure to keep up my spirits and continue...

greetings, Max.

Another Question: what is the correct procedere to change the flex plate when just moving the engine a bit to the front ?
Open the inspection hole and remove the flex plate bolts from there and then move the engine to the front, taking care that the torque converter stays exactly where is it, then remove the rest of the bolts ? And the same vice versa ?

Is it stainless steel? Then I couldn't do it anyway. Thanks.

I'll give it a try, have nothing to lose, isn't easy finding the right manifold here in Germany...
Other alternative would be exhaust repair paste but I don't think it will last that long...

Tried that, thanks.
It doesn't leak at the Flex joint but it does at the inner side of the intersection where 2 and 2 come together...
The steel looks like it is weldable, right ?

Soooo, I am finally starting the task of changing the flexplate and some small things along that way.

I removed the right exhaust manifold because I was having ticking noises from that area sounding like a gasket leak.

Now this thing has this flexible connection in the middle and although everything looks good, I can "wobble" the manifold at the flex connection when I move it in my hands. Is that normal ? I have never seen such a connection in a manifold therefore I an not sure how they are supposed to be...

Out of curiosity, I checked the german vehicle register offices website to check which recalls are notes there for a Land Rover Range Rover 1998 Model and it only lists recall D156, which is that "cracks in the petrol tank can lead to loss of petrol" (only Petrol models, 1993-1998, Discovery and Range Rover, 384 cars in Germany).
Where would these cracks be, has anyone heard of this ?

If it´s of any help, the CO2 emission of a 1998 4,6 (Euro 2) is 414 g/km according to my german car papers...