That sounds convincing, many coins go down that way !
Guess I´ll dismantle one and clean it.
Otherwise I have seen aftermarket seatbelts with all certifications that are quite inexpensive.

I have occasionally had the problem that the seatbelt buckles open by themselves. The lock just releases the buckle without any intervention.
Not funny while driving, especially if it happens to the kids. Only at the front seats though.
Has anyone ever had this ?
I have opened one, cleaned and oiled it but that didn't last long.
Is there a spring inside that weakens?
I guess replacing for a used one will not last long, any idea if they are still available new ?
It is a safety issue so should work reliably...

Oh great, thank you ! Quick fix !
So I can cross this from my mental P38-woes list :-D

Hi,
having recieved my new nanocom I saw that the IAT Sensor shows a temperature that is about 15-20 Degrees C below the actual temperature.
Wiring ist OK, 5V coming from the ECU and the Ohm reading is about what is to be expected accordin to a table that circulating the internet.
Since the Sensor does not seem to be available anywhere I would like to find out why the treading is off.
I could:

• measure it at different temperatures (outside/inside/hairdryer) and see what the readings say
• measure at the ECU connectors if the wiring to/from the sensor is OK (voltage and resistance same as at sensor connector)
  Ideas ?
  thanks and greetings,
  Max.

Bleeding sounds like a good idea, thanks.

Hi,
I have read some things about the failing plastic washer in the brake modulator and I think Richard also wrote about a clicking in the pedal being an early symtom.
I have a regular little click about in the middle of the brake travel and also when I sometimes brake (usually at slow speeds) the pedal feels like when the ABS is kicking in (fast series of feelable clicks in the pedal) even though there is no reason for the ABS to engage (tarmac road, slow braking)
Is that an early symtom of this issue ? Mine ist a 98 GEMS.
And what would be the remedy, I have read about a quite complicated repair, exchanginf the washer for a stainless steel one. Or complete modulator exchange with a used one from a later Model ? Is that possible or is that incompatible due to the different Traction control (2/4 Wheels) ?
greetings,
Max.

Change was easy but didn´t really make a difference, it still takes some time to start when the engine has been off for a while. I suspect the fuel pressure in the rail, will measure it.

Perfect, thanks.

Sometimes I need to crank for a while until it fires up and sometimes not. Read somewhere that if it starts instantly when pushing the throttle pedal a little then it could be the iacv. That works. Sine they are amazingly cheap I thought of ordering one for testing that theory.
Do they need some kind of process where they have to be calibrated with diagnostic software or is it a simple plug and play procedure ?

Thanks, that´s very helfpul, will try to get in there again....my favourite little area in that car...:-)(

OK, thanks. on PROG I can sense a small amount of warm air coming from the middle windscreen vents, so I will have a look behind the instrument cluster, but I guess it´s more likely something with the blend motor since both side vents aren´t working....

EDIT:
"https://c.web.de/%40337510546125364120/OYDwwTU8poWbnRFIo7sN0w"
Just saw this picture, here it looks as if there are no sliding joints on the windscreen vent distribution....so it must be the blend motor....??

Hi,
Now that my EAS is working fine again (eternal thanks to Richard) on to the next problem.
There is no air coming from the vents at the windscreen (just very little in the middle).
Flap motor seems to work (replaced 2 years ago), because when I select up/down/facia the air flow does change. When I select up I can feel a little coming from the mioddle vents, but not much. When I select down it stops coming out the top vents, so flaps should be working. I believe that if the flap would be stuck the motor would go to fault and stop wiorking for a while.
I do have the book symbol on the HEVAC, but not always, but since my Nanocom broke I can´t read the faults. Could also be because the AC is not filled and/or the compressor is not engaging.
Could it be that the vent ducts to the top have somehow dislodged ? Is there a way to access them without dismantling the glove box, etc.? Would removing the instrument panel give me access ?
Thanks for any ideas or hints....

After going nearly insame trying to align my replacement upper tailgate (it wouldn´t shut) I found out that the lock somehow got stuck and didn´t "grab" the loop that would hold shut the tailgate. So removed the lock assembly, rinsed in brake cleaner, oiled it up and it worked again.
Then aligning the tailgate worked, finally.
Richard had sent me a refurbished valve block but since the tailgate didn´t close, the EAS wouldn´t work. So now the new valve block works beautifully, no leaks, no sinking overnight, quick height changes, finally all as it should be. Thanks again to Richard for saving another P38 !

Thanks, I´ll try that.

I finally changed the upper tailgate which was very very rusty, found a mathcing one a couple of years ago.

Went fine although changing it alone was tricky (balancing it on my head while fumbling to find the screwholes without seeing them) but now it doesn´t shut properly most of the time. I know the screwholes are variable and it seemed to sit fine according to the vague RAVE instructions and that the look that goes into the lock is movable too but I can´t get it adjusted that it will always shut tight.

Also tried loosening the "lock loop" and then shutting the tailgate for it to position itself properly and then screwing it tight but that didn´t work either.

Any hints ?

Finally got my MOT done yesterday (the german equivalent), yay !

Luckily the tester is a friend of mine (but very thorough) so the leaking eas valve block officially wasn´t an issue....He knows that if I say I´ll take care of it, I will. I just had to start the engine a couple of times in between when I saw that the car started sinking down....!
Thanks to Richard that problem will be gone soon too !

It was running a tiny bit too lean to pass the emission test but holding the exhaust pipes closed with paper towels did the trick....
Only advisories were Oily engine, rusty exhaust from the outside and brake disks a bit rusty (it sat for a year)

Glad I got it on the road again, while it sat waiting for a new flex plate I wasn´t sure if I would have the stamina for it...

That's what I believe too.
Even though the engine looks a lot wetter from underneath than just a litre....
At the MOT yesterday the tester looked at it and said "Oh, quite dry for a British engine" :-D

Since I started using 15W-50 I am not losing so much Oil anymore.
I would say I have to top up about 1 litre in between oil changes and this is what the engine naturally eeds to conserve it's underside against rust ;-)

Typing some loose ends here, I always hate it when posts don't have a meaningful ending...

I found where my leak came from.
If you remove the long black liner covering the roof rack fixing points you can see that at the front where the metal goes down to the windscreen there is some sealant which apparently gets hard with time, I could see little cracks.
Since this is an area where two metal parts are welded together during construction water could sleep through.

I smeared some new sealant onto the area and since then everything has stayed dry.
I hope my explanation is comprehensible....'-)

What can I do differently ? I did the Block three times now. I could sand/grind the rubber part of the plunger so that the circular groove is gone so it might seal better, otherwise I don't have any better ideas. The O-rings I renewed last night were all put in carefully and everything was very clean...
Is it possible to buy the plungers and/or NRV valves separately ?