Apologies, i've searched for steering lock/barrel/ignition/column but found nothing. My steering lock is proving increasingly troublesome to release, get into car, key in ignition, turn key, won't turn, won't unlock steering, have to wiggle and keep turning the key and then randomly it will release and I can drive off. The lock barrel is now an obselete VIN specific part. So any ideas, is it possible to remove/disable the steering lock but keep the ignition key?
Neither can I find much in the way of schematics or photos?
How long will it take for the adaptive values to reset if you don't have a Nanocom or other device. Mine has been running rich due (I hope) to a poor ground from the MAF. Its now fixed, at the MAF I have a good battery voltage supply, a good earth and the MAF sensor is reporting 1.45v at idle rising to 2+ volts on throttle (no load). She is still running rich, and I've replaced one of the lambda sensors which is reflecting what the other is showing, it thinks its running lean (4.9 - 5 volts).
So is this a wait for the values to reset or another problem?
I thought it somewhat odd to have water drip from the central ceiling light - doubly so because I don't have a sunroof. Slipped it out and crikey, all that condensation. if that's across the entire roof its half a litre or so of water sitting, or not, in the cavity. Has anyone else ever seen anything like it? The car parked outside at the moment so presumbaly this is a meteorological thing.
Any thoughts on what if anything I can do about it? A car hood?
We've just had all the roads i drive to work on (when I'm not cycling) go to 20 mph limits. I got wondering what that meant for emissions and did some calculating. Eyeballing the rpm at different speeds and gears;
20 mph in 4th is 1,100 rpm. So over an hour thats 20 miles covered and 66,000 fuel burning and emissions creating engine revolutions (1100 60).
30 mph in 4th is 1500 rpm, but you cover the 20 miles in 40 minutes, so 60,000 revolutions (1500 40).
30 mph in 5th is 1200 rpm and again the 20 miles covered in 40 mins so 48,000 revolutions (1200 * 40).
So slowing the traffic is actually worse for the environment?
Or have I got it wrong somewhere
My front fog lamp switch is not working the lamps, so I want to remove it but i don't want to have to remove the whole switch panel from the middle of the dashboard. Does anyone have any quick tip as to how to prise out these switches? A pair of feeler gauges stuck down top and bottom? I remember when I looked at them when I had the dash out i thought it could be done but have so far failed. a way of removing them in situ and forwards would be really good.
Advice please. Had a flat battery situation, got it recharged and connected etc and afterwards the front windows (which were fully down) would not wind up. Pressing the buttons on the switch pack the motors made a click but no movement. I managed to directly power the passenger side window into the up position and then the drivers door window started responding to the switch pack. But now the passenger window will only power down, pressing the up switch it doesn't respond. Also after setting the alarm with the double lock, the auto close on the windows doesn't work either. Any ideas?
Apologies but I want to regale our dear Mayor of London but my car is 60 miles away so can't check for a week or two. In a manual P38 can someone check and let me know what the engine RPMs are at 20 mph in top and 4th gear and again at 30 mph in top and 4th gear please?
Happy New Year to you all and lets hope 2022 brings more joy than 2021.
I've been trying to get my sound system working properly and following recommendation from here I got the Kenwood radio that Richard recommended, excellent, works brilliantly and as he says colour codes to match the green of my (now much brighter) all LED dash.
However rubbish reception on FM and investigating I find the wire from the RH window aerial has been connected to a piece of copper wire running up over the inside of the rear headliner. Looking at the window where the wire that goes to the amplifier should be connected, I see that the connection is broken, there's no wire on the window but there does appear to be a place where there once was a soldered/welded connection.
My question is is it safe to try to solder a wire back onto the window?
Will I end up damaging the window? will it crack? Has anyone done this before?
An experience / advice greatly appreciated.
She's just failed because the "ABS light comes on when brakes applied" apparently on the rolling road whilst testing the braking force. In all other respects the system works normally, ABS comes on when ignition on, stay illuminated until a few MPH registered and then no sign of it unless braking hard enough on a loose enough surface to initiate brake modulation which of course i can feel. But just realised that the brake pressure pump comes on as soon as I touch the brake pedal, and when pressed hard the ABS light can come on for a second or two whilst the pump is pumping.
So I'm assuming its the pressure vessel that's gone?
literally as i put the HEVAC panel back in from its LED conversion the book symbol came on. All the servos work, I can hear them and checked them with my Lynx device. Soon realised neither blower motor is running. Wired 12 volts across their heavy black and red cables and they both turn. Checked relays 6 & 7 both OK. Fuses 43 and 34 both OK. I have two HEVACs both tested and checked. Same error message comes up with either.
Then on the Lynx I saw this;
followed by this.
So I'm assuming the blower controllers have gone, but both at once? Could there be a unifying explanation?
I can't find my previous LED light mod thread so I'm posting here, the final outcome. you may remember I modified the courtesy light to create an OEM style internal swithced light without the reading light. Well i went further to create an OEM style single slave light and put one on each side under the shelf supports and wired them into the top lights. The switches are wired as two ways so whichever switch you hit the lights go on or off respectively.
i have no joy in getting photos to work so you can see the pictures here, should be self explanatory.
the LED units are from e-bay and are highly recomended.
I'm really pleased with the end result, massively improves being able to see what you are doing.
I have the metal carcass of a passenger side front seat with the switch panel. All motors are present and work but the lumbar air bag and pump are missing. If anyone wants them happy to package and attach a label if you arrange it from your end.
Does anyone known what the 4.0 litre engine plus the manual gearbox with its ancillaries (air con, alternator, power steering pumps, exhaust manifolds, intakes etc) attached weighs?
Not so much oily as odd. I've noticed for a long long time that the heating air gets noticeably hotter when going round right hand turns and cooler to the left. i'd imagined this was some sort of surge in the cooling system but all my levels are up, no leaks and "burped" free of air, that i know of.
Has anyone else observed this, anyone got an explanation?
Anyone ever used Turner Diagnostics in Hemel Hempstead? https://www.turnermechatronics.com/contact-us/contact.html
I stumbled across them googling for HEVAC solutions, web site seemed to show some knowledge of the P38 and makes great claims about what they can fix, down to pcb level if needed. They sounded knowledgeable on the phone and as I have a big valved, flowed and ported fast road cam engine I thought i'd take her up and see what they could do with a re-map, they even sent an automated SMS booking reminder. I pulled up and they greeted me with the bodging builders sharp intake of breath between closed teeth "blimely that's running badly". As she'd just purred up the M4, M25 and A41 not what I was expecting. I asked in what way she was running badly and they said we'd know when they hooked her up but it could just be a bad set of plugs. I was immediately feeling uneasy about letting them loose on my car so I switched to discussing the LPG fine tune they offered, at this point the younger of the two walked off. I lifted the bonnet for the older one to look at the LPG ECU and his first words were "can't you smell the gas?" err no. He then asked the by now predictable "who did this install!", err I did. "You've not got equal length pipes between the injectors and nozzles" he said. My response was two fold, how on earth could he see that standing as he was by the bumper, with the pipes tucked away beneath the injector rails and behind the intake plenum and in any event how was he to know whether I'd cut the pipes to the length of the most distant gas injector and then led those from the closest through curving routes?
He then scoffed at a restrictor ball valve I have in the water supply to the LPG evaporator and finally literally shouted at the plumbing of the evaporator into the heater water circuits, "why have you used T junctions there". At this point my bull**it alarms were at full volume, I said he'd wasted my time and he the same to me, I ended up driving off with him shouting and gesticulating at the back of my car. This was all a 9 am booking so I have no idea if something else set their day of on the wrong footing.
So not what I was expecting and certainly not in my opinion to be recommended to anyone. I now notice despite the many pages on their web site they only have one testimonial. I'm interested if anyone else has had experience of them?
Having long been unimpressed with the darkness of the lighting in the load space i recently used one of these to replace the bulb in the tailgate laod psace light;
That got me thinking, so got a pair of these from a scrapper
enter link description here
I then cut the end of
and cut again
then discarding the middle section i used hot glue from teh back to bond the two pieces together
and then a bit of scrap plastic from the discarded middle section and a soldering iron to plastic weld / fill the gap
which after a rough and ready file and sand looked presentable
next bend the original bulb holder brass contacts to shape to grasp the SMD panel, that means bend the very top over and fold them flat against the back
use some hot glue to hold it in place
connect up the wires and hey presto you have a OEM style manually operated load space light just waiting to be cut into the headlining.
See you on the next post
I've searched this and the other forums but can't find much about the best options for spray painting the external plastic trim panels; such as the window finishers, the rear "D" panel external trims and the front and rear screen finisher trims.
Where the external body plastic trims / finishers suffer from ageing / weathering, what is the best method to restore them?
I've heard wash them in WD40, oil them or paint them.
Any views or experience gratefully received.
I'm talking about the heater core temp sensor on the aluminium pipes into the heater core, not the A/C sensor on the other side.
Well it looks like there's only one left in the world, in Latvia, and he wants £100 for it. As its a thermistor that could cost just a few pence is it possible for us to put our heads together and source an alternative? I'm told by Martin Cox that it maybe a 10K ohm or 22K ohm @ 25'c NTC thermistor. Can anyone confirm this? Alternatively could anyone with a working one possibly measure its ohms and make a note of the temperature at the time, even better still measure the ohms at two different temperatures, one hot one cold? Once we know what spec thermistor it is it will be easy to rig up a mount of some sort.
i'm not keen on getting one from a breaker as its likely to be as old as my own and moving and manhandling these 25 yr old components not always good.
Transfered from RR.net. I've searched but cannot find anything on this subject on this forum. I recently did a dashboard out HEVAC re-vamp. When the instrument cluster went back in the message center LCD is dead. Everything else works. looking through the RAVE wiring diagram it looks as if all the backlights in the cluster are powered from a single feed and return via connector C242. Ergo if some of the lights are working then there should be power to the message centre lights. If they all died at the same time i'm wondering if the PCB has failed / cracked somewhere. Anyone else had this issue? Anyone else had experience of re-soldering joints / cracked conductors on the PCB? is there a connector to the LCD similar to the HEVAC ribbon? Anyone got a clue? I've done some work re-soldering a known issue with dry joints in Skoda Fabia's but am grateful for any knowledge before i dismantle the entire cluster.