Dear All,
Passenger door has decided to stay locked, nothing will free it, internal handle, locking tab, external handle, any other lock tab and remote. Allother doors operate correctly. Looking down inside I can see all the cables and rods are attached. So the latch must have failed. Question is how do you get the door open? The american forum suggests you have to remove the rear door and then butcher the metal hoop the latch locks onto.
Anyone got any other tricks or ideas?
Dear All,
Apologies, i've searched for steering lock/barrel/ignition/column but found nothing. My steering lock is proving increasingly troublesome to release, get into car, key in ignition, turn key, won't turn, won't unlock steering, have to wiggle and keep turning the key and then randomly it will release and I can drive off. The lock barrel is now an obselete VIN specific part. So any ideas, is it possible to remove/disable the steering lock but keep the ignition key?
Neither can I find much in the way of schematics or photos?
Dear All,
How long will it take for the adaptive values to reset if you don't have a Nanocom or other device. Mine has been running rich due (I hope) to a poor ground from the MAF. Its now fixed, at the MAF I have a good battery voltage supply, a good earth and the MAF sensor is reporting 1.45v at idle rising to 2+ volts on throttle (no load). She is still running rich, and I've replaced one of the lambda sensors which is reflecting what the other is showing, it thinks its running lean (4.9 - 5 volts).
So is this a wait for the values to reset or another problem?
PC38 wrote:
I realise I should have put this in the electrikery section.
Dear All,
Well if its of any interest the eventual outcome was that the earth to the MAF via connector C531 on terminal 3 the red and black wire was not grounding, as soon as I wired up an alternative route to 12v negative she again ran beautifully. I did not bother to try to find out where the ground was (not).
Dear All,
I realise I should have put this in the electrikery section.
I did the installation and the LPG ecu is wired into the Lambda sensors so what it sees is what the RR ECU sees. In the past when doing other things and tuning the LPG system i've seen the lambdas working correctly in the same software, oscillating from 0-5 and back etc. So I know the diagnostic is seeing the real reading.
Dear All,
Mine is spewing gallons of sooty black watery exhaust. My LPG diagnostics shows both lambda sensors (one brand new) sitting resolutely at 5 volts (GEMS engine). I've suspected the MAF and cleaned it and the filter but still the same. the car will run with the MAF disconnected but much worse and richer.
So Q1)
am I right to suspect the MAF, its labelled a Lucas part.
I've read the various MAF/problems/testing/cleaning threads but am still not sure,
Q2) what are my options for a replacement?
Thanks in advance.
Dear All,
for info found the problem, i reasoned that the RF unit wasn't communicating with the BECM so checked the wiring and it was C236 at the BECM, connector was duff. Now all sorted and all working again. So I probably didn't need to buy the new RF after all - DOH.
Dear All,
Re-kindling this thread because i've run out of ideas. As per previous posting out of the blue the car stopped responding to remote pressed buttons on the fob. Fob battery and LED all OK. She does respond fully and as expected with the key in the door. Keycode lockout, engine immobilised etc all work with the key in the door and when synch'd all four doors and interior lights work with the key in the door as they should. So my attention turned to the RF receiver. I bought a genuine new one. fitted it and nothing. I checked the power at the plug, a good continuous battery voltage and good clean connection to ground. Plugged it back in and the car then responds to the fob, as normal. locks and unlocks. I then try the key in the door lock, which again works as normal, but then it no longer responds to the buttons on the fob. Its almost as if its "forgetting" its synch via the RF.
Any ideas as to whats going on?
Dear All,
Thanks for the advice.
No the return of services after a lockout was immediate and for everything except for fob control. No evidence the RF is working. Unfortunately I don't have a Nanocom, only a Lynx. So its a continuity and voltage testing weekend. At least it'll be pretty quick to confirm suspected diagnosis, 12v + and - from battery terminals to RF and see what happens.
Dear All,
After establishing that everything works as it should with the key manually (EKA coding, all doors respond to the turning key, no alarm messages) I concluded it must be the RF receiver. Just fitted a genuine LR replacement and still the car refuses to respond to buttons pressed on freshly manually synchronised fobs. Next I'm going to check power to the RF and continuity back to the BECM but any other bright ideas?
Gilbertd wrote:
To get that much condensation, your car must be very damp inside. Is it wet in the footwells? I would suspect rain is getting in through the bulkhead, roof joins or similar and when it sits outside in the sun it vaporises before condensing on the cold roof. Any damp patches on the headlining anywhere which would suggest a leak around the screen? Do the windows steam up when it is parked in the sun?
No but I have been running it for several months without the sealing trim at the bottom of the windscreen. Oops. Suddenly looking a bit sheepish.
Dear All,
I thought it somewhat odd to have water drip from the central ceiling light - doubly so because I don't have a sunroof. Slipped it out and crikey, all that condensation. if that's across the entire roof its half a litre or so of water sitting, or not, in the cavity. Has anyone else ever seen anything like it? The car parked outside at the moment so presumbaly this is a meteorological thing.
Any thoughts on what if anything I can do about it? A car hood?
Gilbertd wrote:
Like I say, there is a tiny surface mount 5V regulator in the upgraded receiver which has been known to fail. I know Marty has repaired a few of them. Do you have an earlier one you can put in to try?
Dear Richard,
I don't unfortunately. I see from the Rangerovers.net site Marty is offering a replacement RF receiver but he's out of stock at the moment.
I've also notice that when the car is unlocked the passenger door tabs don't shoot up as vigorously as they used to, could resistance in those mechanisms be part of the problem?
in the meantime i've examined my green spot receiver, no obvious sign of anything burnt out.
Gilbertd wrote:
Yes you can. When you turn the ignition switch to position 3, it provides a ground to the BeCM. If the BeCM has received a valid unlock code, it allows that ground through to the starter relay. By linking the two pins it allows the ground to go directly, bypassing the BeCM, but it won't make any difference if the original wiring is left attached or not.
As you can see from my other thread looks like i'm having problems. So with this jumper in place I should be able to start my car no matter what the alarm thinks?
Dear Richard,
Thanks for such rapid response. Its bl**dy cold out there and off course I didn't realise that there is a dedicated alarm sounder under the fuse box! I'd disconnected the first horn thinking that was the source but the next time it still honked away. How can it still make a noise upsetting the neighbours? I found and disconnected the second horn, but it still did it, how can it still be making a noise upsetting the neighbours? That's when i located the dedicated alarm horn. Anyway all silent now.
Yes the fob was rotated as you say.
What I have now noticed is that after an EKA reset if I turn the key in the door lock to lock the car i hear clicks and clunks from all four doors but then if I turn it to unlock only the drivers door unlocks, the three others do not operate. So maybe its a drivers door microswitch problem?
Would a drivers door microswitch problem play havoc with everything else?
Dear All,
Any thoughts? June 1995 200K miles central locking bu**ering about. In last few years for various reasons have upgraded RF receiver, drivers side door station and fob. Now the problem appears to be the car is immediately forgetting any synchronised fob. So I can go through all the EKA code setting and the car will unlock but as soon as I go to use the buttons on the fob again after a reset it doesn't respond. The latch in the drivers door is a new one a few years ago but has been fiddled with by a paint shop. the rear passenger door locking buttons are a bit tight and not often used these days. I've done the dealers quick re-synch holding teh buttons on the fob with the key in the lock until the light flashes fast and with the key in the ignition the led does come on. I have two fobs, one regular one and one a backup. the problem first came to light out of the blue using the daily fob, which the car no longer recognised but the backup worked for about a week, then its started happening with either.
So any pointers greatly appreciated. I'm thinking the RF receiver first?
Harv wrote:
Thanks for all the info on the LED’s. I’m going to try using some in a few places.
here's the link to my postings on some LED electrickery
Dear All,
Been there done that and its not as simple as you think. The tell tale bulbs are in those little twist in plastic sockets. they are minute bulbs with short wire legs that are wrapped around the socket, and when twisted in place make contact with the PCB in the switch. There are no direct LED replacements. so you have to source single green or orange LED elements that also have the legs. push the legs through the holes, wrap them around the base. However these elements only emit light in one direction, so you have to allow enough room to bend them through 90's so they are "facing" front. But, these are often polarity sensitive so you have to make sure that when twisted into the switch both the wires are in contact with the positive or negative and the LED is face forward. Quite a faff. Well worth it when its done as they are much brighter.
I'm writing this from away from the car and my garage so i'll try to remember to upload some pictures at the end of the week.
Dear All,
Mine sounds the same, on a 10,000 mile Turner engineering engine. Always has. I've always assumed it was a stuck l;ifter but numerous oil changes and flushes no change. Comes from the L bank, ran it with rocker cover off all seemed in order. So no idea but reassuring it looks like its a common noise and not just mine!