Take the Idle Valve out and thoroughly clean it inside & clean the connector..
Some versions of BECM will not lock the car with bonnet open . . others do seem to ? Both my P38 now have the bonnet switch disconnected, which means I can test the locking, sleeping, etc with it open !!
When I did the ball joints on mine, after having to drill out the old sensors (even though they were working), I converted the sensor holes in the hubs to slots. That way I can remove the hub next time without disturbing the sensors.
Here's the original post from the Nanocom forums by MartyUK. Not sure if it only applies to WaboD or C as well. There's been no indication whether BBS fixed it or not.
_Had a look at a couple of P38's with ABS problems, which have both turned out to be the wheel speed sensor. The Nanocom will come up with the fault code of what sensor is faulty, so that's easy enough to troubleshoot/replace...
However, if you go into the Nanocom Inputs window in the WABCO D ABS (I can't comment on the 'C' as I've only looked at Thor vehicles lately!) I've seen that with the dodgy sensor, 3 sensors have shown a proper voltage reading and one (the faulty one) has shown 0.00V.
However the issue is that the one showing the fault isn't the same as the one the fault is logged against. So I did a run around of the vehicle plugging/unplugging each sensor in turn and found that the Nanocom labels are slightly incorrect:
When Front/Right was unplugged, it showed 0.00V on Front/Right sensor
When Front/Left was unplugged, it showed 0.00V on Rear/Right sensor
When Rear/Right was unplugged, it showed 0.00V on Rear/Left sensor
When Rear/Left was unplugged, it showed 0.00V on Front/Left sensor
Is it possible to get this looked into (I guess it just needs the labels changed, or the values moved to line up with the correct labels) for a future software update?
Just to confirm, any fault codes stored in the ABS ECU which relate to a specific sensor are correct - it is only in the inputs where it shows the sensor voltages that they don't line up. I am not sure if this carries over to the wheel speed readings aswell, as the ABS ECU won't give live data above 5mph, so haven't had a chance to test that yet._
STC3064 seems to be out of stock from most suppliers. STC3063 (left door) seems to be more available
Microswitches probably bad.
If he did the test on two-wheel rollers, it will do strange things.
I would suggest Arp Studs rather than bolts. Much less potential for damaging the threads in the block. AZ510A is the correct set.
According to wikipedia, it's 144-170kg depending on version.
I have the Draper 450kg stand, and it easily holds my 4.6
Did you check the pressure relief valve ?
As far as the replacement engine, I would definitely spin it over on engine stand with spark plugs removed & and check compressions as well as oil pressure. It will also be easy to see any oil leaks & fix them before installing.
If you're really creative you could rig up some pipework & do a coolant pressure test as well ?
I have always understood the Nanocom EDC, GEMS or Thor license only affect the Engine diagnostics.
Maybe it was different on earlier SW versions with some modules locked out for different licenses ? Mine is running latest release version, and with GEMS only license, shows all the menu options for Wabco C & D.
The emulator is useful but is not representative of the current BBs release !!
Maybe a generic OBD diagnostic reader will give faster updates from GEMS ? Most generic diag will talk to GEMS ok, just not the other ECU's.
I like my Nanocom, but definitely agree it's a bit slow to pull data.
I replaced the seal on mine a few years back. Not 100% sure but I think I bought it from Island-4x4. Definitely had to trim a bit off the end, once I got it all fitted tightly round the glass. any bulges in the rubber will make it hard for the mechanism to open or close.
Can't seem to upload images here, so added the relevant section in RAVE to the rr.net thread.
EAS Randomly going to high mode usually seems to be related to intermittent Drive Pack to solenoid connections. I still have a driver pack in garage that does this. Mine also does it every time just south of J10 on the M40 (both ways), but only >> 50mph. Seems to be a particularly bouncy stretch of road. I suspect the oscillations of the car confuse the ECU which cannot keep up, and it goes into high mode with invalid faults !!
I also did the "remove & solder" thing on those footwell connectors several years ago, but still occasionally get the Invalid Fault code. This is more likely bugs in the ECU or values that Nanocom & EAS-Unlock cannot understand. It would be interesting to see if LR Testbook also reports this ?
Just use a spare valve block & driver pack assembly, and make a larger EAS housing ? You can use the existing hole pattern as template for the new housing.
You might need a louder stereo to drown out the pump noise !! BTW, what's that blue thing that looks like a motor ?
Yes, bought the gauges from eBay for about £8 each. I can then pressurise valve block on bench & monitor for slow leaks.
The control box is also useful when working on the car, where I can simply raise & lower front/rear, etc with the engine off. The large red button is for pump, plus there's a relay inside that uses the pressure switch so it does auto-shutoff as well.
Somewhat nicer than my test setup.
Also is the aftermarket stereo wired via the door amplifiers or direct to the speakers ? Incorrect wiring to the amps can also cause whine.
Yes I'm well aware of how the BECM monitors the bulbs using the MosFet outputs. I tried LED reverse bulbs a couple of years ago, but ended up putting them in wife's Freelander !! Just wondered what the actual current is on those with heatsinks, which are clearly there for the resistor rather than the LED.