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Hi, I wonder whether someone may have an idea why I get the occasional warning beep and a message to say that I have low brake fluid ?

I have checked the fluid level several times since the message started to appear about a month ago, but it is between the two levels consistently. I have followed the hand book instruction for checking and nothing seems untoward. The brakes are working perfectly, including trying an emergency stop, and the ABS lights go out as they should at start up.

Is it possible that there is a sensor somewhere that has started to misread the level in the reservoir ? The issue doesn't happen every time I take the car out, it is random, nothing seems to particularly cause it.

The first time it happened I was parked, partly on and partly off, a kerb outside a shop, and as I drove off I got the message which them immediately went off again. It does this each time when it happens, just a beep, a message, and then OK again. But maybe one time a week, maybe two times a week.

Maybe someone might have come across this ?

Pierre3.

Hi, I wonder whether someone might be able to suggest where to start looking for a communication issue with my Nanocom.

It was working perfectly when I used it about three months ago, but I plugged it in last week and nothing is registering. It seems to be making a firm connection in the green data plug, under the glove box, and it is certainly OK at the unit. It is a pretty new unit, I got it twelve months ago, and it just sits in the glovebox of the car. It hasn't been dropped or damaged, but it just doesn't come on when plugged in.

Is there a fuse somewhere that could have popped ? I haven't had any issues, electrically, with the car so I don't know it has suddenly decided to stop working.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Pierre3.

Hi, I am thinking about buying a Direnza rad for my 2001 DHSE P38. However, looking at the Direnza website, and a couple of E-bay adverts the only radiator that appears to be available is one for a manual 94-99 diesel. On the E-bay website I notice that someone asked if it will suit a 2001 auto but the answer can't be found as the page is no longer available.

I wonder whether anyone can confirm that the radiator advertised, for a manual 2.5 TD 94-99 P38, would fit a 2001 auto 2,5 TD P38 ?

As my old donkey is used for road use only do I really need an aluminium radiator ? I still have the standard unit in the car [I don't know if it has ever been changed] so maybe I would be better just buying a new, standard radiator as it is probably likely to outlast me, and the car.

Pierre3.

Hi, I am on the hunt for a couple of hard to get items - two or three power steering pipe clips that are located on the two lugs that are sitting under the radiator. Unfortunately, mine have broken, and they are no longer available.

They would probably need to come of a P38 which is being taken apart, and with this in mind I have contacted a couple of breakers but so far no-one has replied to me at all. I am sure that there has to be some, somewhere but the big breakers don't seem to be interested.

I wonder whether anyone on the forum here might have a couple that I could buy ?

enter image description here

enter image description here

Pierre3.

Hi guys, I wonder whether anyone knows where I can get some power steering pipe clips. I have just replaced the power steering pipes and the clips that seem to be located on the radiator brackets have disintegrated. I am attaching a couple of pictures.

enter image description here

enter image description here


If anybody knows the part number, or who has them in stock then I would grateful. Failing that I will have to start checking with the used parts guys !

Pierre3.

Hi, I am having a new problem with my 2001 DHSE - on a run from the country, yesterday, the engine decided to overheat. I had done a run the previous day of around 100 miles with no problems, and yesterday I had been running around a bit, again with no problems.

When I left for the journey home I got about 20 miles into the journey when I suddely noticed that I had no power, and when I looked down I saw the gauge right up in the red, and the red warning lights was on. I pulled in, opened the bonnet and, even though the gauge was right over in the red the fan wasn't running.

The header tank was filled to the correct level, having been checked the day before. So I sat for an hour to let the engine cool somewhat, but it only drove for about another five miles before the gauge, and the red warning light, came back on.

I did notice that, wth the engine off, but the ignition on that I could hear what sounded like the fan running but it wasn't turning, so I presume that this was the viscous fan unit running but not connecting to the actual fan. I wonder whether this makes sense, is it time to fit a new viscous fan unit ?

I checked this morning, with the car having been left overnight, and cold, and when I started the engine the fan was running as normal at start-up. However, when I tried to stop the fan itself I couldn't. When I checked the fan yesterday, when the engine was hot, there was resistance in turning the fan, but not very much as it turned fairly freely. But this morning it is locked in, and it would probably chop my fingers off if I tried to stop it.

It is strange because my engine temperature always sits at the last blue line on the gauge, and usually only went up to the 12 0'clock position in heavy traffic, and I remember, about three months ago, someone on the forum said the viscous fan could be dodgy, because the temperature gauge should always sit at 12 o'clock. My car has always sat just on the last "cold" sector since I got it nearly tree years ago.

Everything is very clean around the radiator and the hoses, to the extent that they look quite new, but the large finned viscous unit looks a fair bit corroded.

Any advice would be appreciated before I start to order replacement parts, I don't want to splash out £500 on an alloy radiator if the problem turns out to be the thermostat.

Pierre3.

Hi, I wonder whether anybody can tell me if I can remove the bits and pieces storage box, or tray thingy, from the centre console upper surround, where the clock is located.

Here is the piece that I am thinking of buying:
enter image description here

As one can see there was a sat nav unit fitted, and now removed. The surround would be perfect for my car, but can I remove the remaining bit of the black panel and fit the complete black panel from my existing surround ?
enter image description here

I am hoping that it is possible to remove the section with in the red box in my existing upper console surround, and just fit it back into the walnut surround.

My question is - can I do this ? Does the clock surround and the bits and bobs storage box just unclip ?

Pierre3.

Hi, I wonder whether someone might know where to find the correct wood finish fitted to their P38 ?

I know that the trim reference is on the build plate under the bonnet, but where would I find out the type of wood panels fitted ? I am assuming that my car has Walnut but I remember from having a couple of old Mercedes that making assumptions on the wood type and style was a big mistake as they made different colours of Walnut depending on the year.

Maybe someone has some ideas ?

Pierre3.

I am interested to know whether there are many alternatives, if any, to lock the car without using the key fob and just using the key.

The reason I ask is that quite a lot of times that I leave my P38 the key fob won't lock the car, and I don't particularly like using the key because I get the impression that the key will throw up errors, such as engine immobilised, or press buttons whille key is in the ignition. If the car doesn't lock with the fob I tend to leave it unlocked, which is not the best option.

I have one of Marty's RF filter fitted, and the car locks and unlocks every single time that it is parked outside my house, but go near somewhere where there may be loads of RF signals and I just can't use te fob. I have new handles and door latches fitted, but sometimes the car will lock with the fob, but not unlock, I have to use the key. Then, quite often, when I go to start the car the first turn of the key does nothing so I have to take the key out of the ignition and go again, at which point the car usually starts.

I would like to find a means that might be 100% reliable. I know that I saw something about using the US key fobs, using the US frequencies, but from the brief bit that I read there is quite a lot to changing the key fobs to US spec. A more simple answer would be preferred.

Maybe I can program out the immobilisor with Nanocom ? I suppose that would help, but ideally the possibility of by-passing the EKA software would be the best choice.

I would be interested to see what other members views are.

Pierre3.

I can't remember whether I asked specifically about this subject, so I will risk asking again !!

I read, on the RR P38 facebook forum thingy, that both the diesel and petrol P38's use the brake light switch to help control the cruise control. I wonder if someone can confirm this ? My CC isn't working although the switch lights up. And I know that the diesel doesn't use the vacuum tubes, like the petrol vehicle. But, perhaps the brake light switch could be the problem ?

Pierre3.

I am wondering whether someone would be able to explain the differences between the diesel and petrol fuse boards ?

I have been offered a new, old stock, diesel fusebox for my diesel 2001, 2.5 DHSE by a closed down RR dealer in Liverpool. I know the chap from many years ago and I know that I can trust him. He closed his business about 10 years ago and he rang me to say that he has this fusebox in his garage and would I be interested. I am thinking that it would be a good idea to keep a brand new fusebox in my garage for the day when I need to replace my own one.

The problem is, having spent a good while looking on the world-famous Internet I can actually only find two different fuseboxes/boards, one for a petrol and one for a diesel engine. There are some second hand units on Ebay and they all seem to be described differently - one for a 1999 - 2000 diesel; another for all diesels; another for all petrol engined P38's. But Rimmer Bros lists the same board for all the diesels !!

Looking at pictures of one on Ebay they all look the same, so I can only think that the difference maybe the fuse sizes, and what they are connected to, thereby suggesting that the basic fuseboard is actually the same in all P38's. I wonder whether anyone can explain the difference between them ?

Pierre3.

I could do with some advice/assistance, please. My garage guy fitted a new ABS sensor this afternoon, a Britpart sensor, and everything was OK. I went out to the shops this evening and te ABS/Traction fault message has appeared back on the dashboard, with the warning lights coming on. Unfortunately, I have an MOT tomorrow morning and I am wondering whether there is any way off getting rid of the message ?

I am wondering whether there is any way that I can cancel or delete the ABS messages using a Nanocom ? If I cut the sensor cable can I just short it out ? Can anyone suggest an alternative means to clear the message before the test in the morning ?

I remember Richard [GilbertD] writing up which Wabco option, using Nanocom, I need to use. I have a 2001 2.5 DHSE automatic, and I remember seeing two options after plugging my Nanocom in for the first time - was it Wabco C and Wabco D ? And which one do I need ?

I am not at all familiar with Nanocom so bear with me please !!!!!

Pierre3.

Hi, I am looking for a bit of helpful information, if someone would be kind enough to help.

My P38 failed its annual test in Ireland, and I am looking for the following, but I am not sure if I have the correct number of parts:

2 x power steering pipes [ which looking at a diagram seem to be the two "S" shaped pipes] - tester says that "the power steering pipes are leaking";
2 x oil cooler to gearbox pipes [ my garage guy says that the both seem to be leaking] - Maltings Offroad have an oil cooler plus pipes which I am considering:

Any opinions or comments would be appreciated.

Pierre3.

Hi, I wonder whether someone might have an idea why my 2.5 diesel P38 has suddenly decided to become difficult to restart after turning off the engine for 5 or 10 minutes. It has been fine up until yesterday when it was difficult to restart after being parked for 10 minutes.

The engine was at normal temperature after a 20 mile journey but when I tried to restart it the motor just kept cranking until it eventually spluttered into life. I am fairly sure that I pre-heated before I restarted. I did notice, earlier in the day, that occasionally, on tickover, that the engine would seem to miss every now and again which has not happened before. After spluttering to restart the engine ran smoothly as normal.

Also, something that has never happened before was that the engine suddenly cut out as I moved the gearstick into "Drive". I pre-heated again but I had to crank the engine over for maybe 10/15 seconds before it fired and even then it just spluttered into life. But everything ran fine once it started.

Again, I noticed, this morning, that when being started for the first time today the engine did a couple of missed beats while ticking over, but, again, after a quick rev of the engine it seemed to be OK. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Pierre3.

Hi, I have noticed that the headlight bulb rubber boot [for the rear of the headlight] is missing. I have only noticed this because the bulb went "pop" and I had to change it. As it is the drivers side and under the battery cover I have never noticed it missing before.

Does anyone know where I could get one, and is it just one that I need ? Looking at the passenger side I see that it is quite a big item, but is there another dust cover underneath the main one ?

I have emailed Tom Peers [ Roverviews] but any other contacts for reliable breakers would be appreciated.

Pierre3.

Hi, I would like to ask how difficult, in real life experience, is it to remove the dashboard display unit, in a UK [RHD] vehicle.

I believe that there are 4 Phillips screws holding up a plastic panel under the steering wheel but then there is a metal frame inside the dashboard cavity. Some people have said to remove the metal frame, but it is a real pain both to remove the bolts and to re-locate it when re-assembling. Other people have suggested just loosening the bolts a bit, but don't remove completely.

Again, I believe that the dashboard display is held in by 4 screws, and the unit should pull out over the steering wheel cover. Am I correct in this.

Lastly, do I need to disconnect the battery before doing this, I suppose it makes sense to do so.

Any help/suggestions much appreciated.

Pierre3.

Hi, I would like to ask for some advice/instruction from members who have a good knowledge of using a Nanocom.

I have the known message about ABS/Traction [control] Failure fault on the dashboard. I finally decided to buy a Nanocom, and I would like to ask where I would find the section on the Nanocom that deals with the ABS/Traction Failure ?

I know that I need to go to "R Rover P38" - "EDC", but then the next menu lists two types of what I presume are the values for ABS systems, Wabco C and Wabco D.

Where would I go at this point ? Perhaps someone could tell me if there are specific values to be aware of, or will Nanocom just report a fault as "Fault" somewhere ?

Pierre3.

Hi, I am looking for a bit of assistance, if someone can help. Where can I get confirmation of the EKA code for my RR ?

I have a card in the service book with the EKA written in, the top section was probably lost between previous buyers. The card in the service book is an original document, and on the reverse side has the radio code written in. Where can I ring to check that I have the correct code if I can't get a garage to plug in a diagnostics to read it ?

I am in Dublin, and I have tried the two main Landrover dealer, Joe Duffy Motors and HB Dennis, but they both say that they don't have the correct diagnostics to plug into the P38. I may need to ring someone in the UK, such as Landrover, to see if I can get confirmation that the code that I have is the correct one. I don't believe that anything has been reprogrammed in the BeCM so the EKA would still the the original, correct one.

This has been caused because this afternoon the car went into EKA lockout - I can't use the fobs to open the car, I can open it only with the key, and then the alarm goes off, and the dashboard display reads " Press remote" and "or enter EKA" or something like that. I have had to leave the car in a supermarket carpark as I can't get it going.

The EKA code is not working but I don't know whether it is because I have an incorrect code or because the door latch has given up the ghost. At the moment it looks like it is a trailor home job.

Lastly, could someone perhaps give me the correct part number for the door latch, please ? My car is a 2001, 2.5 DHSE. I looked at the Britcar website and i am wondering if this is the correct part number for the drivers side front door latch, "FQJ103220 - Lock - Front Door". Perhaps someone could let me know.

Thanks in advance, Pierre3.

2000 Range Rover For Sale.

150,000 miles, OK tyres, quite nice inside, bit of a smell of old dog.

Current road test and road tax for the next month or so.

Selling price - £15,000, cash only.

Comes with a FULL tank of fuel, very rare product. Suit serious collector.

Ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha. JOKE, OK.

Pierre3.

Hi, I wonder if someone can tell me how to remove the two foam rubber seals that are fitted around the bottom of the bonnet struts. They look like they may be held on with adhesive tape, but I can see a piece of metal inside te seal.

The seals on my car have started to fall apart, and I have been able to get two new ones, and I would like to know how to get the old ones off before the new ones arrive.

These are the pieces that I am talking about:
enter image description here

Pierre3.