I was throwing out old paperwork this morning and I came across an old German fuel declaration form.
It might just bring back some memories from anyone who used to drive artic's on the continent back in the '60's and '70's.
I wonder if someone might suggest the best place to check for a water leak into the spare wheel well, in my P38.
I notice that, when the vehicle is parked in the drive, when there is heavy rain rain water gets into the the spare wheel well. After two days of occasional heavy rain there is a couple of tablespoons worth of rain water on the right hand [drivers UK] side of the wheel well. I can see an indication that the water may be running into the wheel well somewhere on the rear of the side wall of the wheel well. I think that the drain tube goes down the rear corner panel beside the rear tail gate window, but would that explain how rain water could get into the wheel well, if it blocked.
I have had a look at the sunroof seal, and it is alright, and the plastic surround under the glass is dry. I am sure that the front drain tubes are clear [speculation !!] but I must look for a nylon cable fish, in my garage, which I have used before to clear sunroof drain tubes on other cars, and poke it down the rear drain tubes.
Just out of interest, how do I get to the rear drain tubes ? If I run the sunroof right back will I be able to see the tubes ?
I know that there will be a lot of other suggestions that will be scary - rear door seals, hinge bolts letting water in, rear light seals leaking. However, somewhere there may be the correct answer if it is not the drain tubes. Any suggestions will be appreciated and I know that the problem could be any one of half a dozen things but I would hope that it might just be the most obvious one.
I thought that it may be helpful to anyone having the same issue that I had, namely a leaking rear tailgate or a leak somewhere. I was getting a lot of rain water getting into the spare wheel well, and I couldn't figure out where it was coming from.
I took all the trim, carpets and fittings out of the boot area and left them out for a couple of months, checking after each time it rained to see if any rain had got back in. Each time it rained there was some water still getting in. I carefully cleaned off everything that I could get at in the spare wheel well floor and body work. I used a hair dryer to make sure that the hollow panels were dry, and then I took out things like the tailgate flap and stuffed Vaseline into the screwholes.
I checked and cleaned the sunroof tubes, and made sure that the pipes through the rear arches were not blocked. I also readjusted the body edge, as per the service advice, and took off most off the tailgate seal and reseated it using Vaseline under the seal. The seal appeared to have deformed at the two lower corners but otherwise looked in good condition.
This is the point at which I can image that people start to pull their hair out, and look, as I did, for anything at all that could be a problem - back bumper fixings, rear wiper, rear wiper washer pipe, etc, etc.
I sat and thought about what could be happening, and out of frustration I decided to put my hand in my pocket and buy a new seal - £120 or so with delivery.
And hey, the most obvious answer turns out to be the solution. I used a windscreen non-setting black mastic to put a fine film of seal under the tailgate seal and refitted the new item.I have had the vehicle sitting out in very heavy rain for the last two months and [fingers still crossed] not a drop of rain water.
I think that we all do the obvious and look for a leak somewhere and decide that it must be somewhere unobvious !! In fairness I could have saved a couple of months of sponging up the rain water every time it rained, but I also think that I was reluctant to spent £££'s without being certain.
But I think that my advice now would be - if the leak is not the sunroof then really, really consider just fitting a new tailgate seal.
One thing that I haven't sorted out is water getting in when I drive through a lot of big puddles in heavy rain. I have no problem in heavy rain on a good road surface, but if I drive through a lot of large puddles on the side of the road then water gets in somewhere. I may just get the rear underside undersealed, and see if that sorts it out. At the moment, I just avoid big puddles !!!
I am getting water into the wheel well, and I was checking this evening, after heavy rain, and the water seems to be getting in somewhere around the drivers side rear light fitting, but I can't be sure at the moment. I think that I need to get the hosepipe out and get Madam to run water over the rear door and window while I get into the boot/wheel well area. I have all the carpet and panel out of the boot area and checked the sunroof drain tubes, but they seem to be clear.
The rain water doesn't appear to be coming from the area where the rubber drain tube goes through into the wheel well, either. There isn't any sign of water running across the floor panel directly below the drivers side back window, where the RF receiver is positioned. That whole area is as dry as a bone.
I have cleaned everything out and more or less polished the area in the wheel well in the hope of seeing a water track. I have also bent the bottom edge of the bodywork, under the rear seal, as per the RAVE instructions, and put a load of petroleum jelly under the rear seal. So far it hasn't fixed the leak. I think that the previous owner had the problem because the wheel well has been painted with black paint, a bit like an underseal product. It looks like the rear seal has been replaced already because the seal has very precise cut-outs where the RAVE instruction says to cut the seal to let out the water. I would imagine that my seal is a dealer supplied item.
I could see a small water track down inside a cavity right below the rear light and a bit under where the rear power plug is, but it is difficult to tell whether the water is getting into the cavity [this cavity is the panel that runs from side to side under the rear seal lip], and also I can't see where it could exit to get into the wheel well.
When I looked at this this evening there seemed to be a damp track down the joint where the floor of the wheel well meets the side wall of the drivers side wheel well, right at the very back where the floor panel rises up the meet the panel behind the bumper panel.
A tiresome problem, and the vehicle does sound hollow and a bit rattly with all the rear carpet and panels removed.
Hi, I would like to check out something fairly urgently, if someone can help.
I bought two new rear door handles from Rimmer Bros and they arrived without problem, and fairly cheap at £53 each.
The problem is - one side handle has a plastic hook connected to the back of the handle, but the other handles has nothing. Rimmer Bros tell me that the handles are correct and what I ordered, but I can't see why one handle would have a plastic hook, fixed with a metal pin, and the other handle has nothing at all. I believe that there is something wrong here, and that they should both be the same, one for the left and one for the right.
Rimmer Bros came back and said "Take off the door panels and check the existing fittings". This is kind of stupid as the car is currently parked outside and in daily use.
Could someone perhaps confirm whether the two handles should have the same connection when removed from the vehicle ?
I am attaching a couple of pictures for review.
Oh, sorry, I can't add pictures as there is no option here to upload images, so hopefully someone will know what the back of the rear door handles look like.
I am trying to find out how to tell which rear external door handles is which from the part number. Also, which way up does the plastic hook, on the back of the handles, go ?
When the handle is fitted does the plastic hook pull upwards ?
I am trying to figure out which handle I need to send back to Rimmer Bros as they have sent me two rear handles but one has a plastic hook fitted and the other has nothing fitted.
In relation to the original post by Orangebean, about the fitting of the new door handle springs, I would like to ask - is it difficult removing the door inner panel, both front and back ?
I have been slowly tidying up my P38 and I decided, rather than repainting the door handles, to buy new ones, with the exception of the driver's door handle. With the hassle of trying to change the door lock and things on the driver's side door
I have decided to fit the repair kit and repaint this handle. Hopefully I will be able to get it to match the colour and texture of the new handles.
However, I have never tried to get the inner door panels off so I would like to see whether there are any things in particular to watch out for.
I have got spare metal spring clips for the back of the door handle, which some people say breaks, or stretches, when it is levered apart, but is the any other bits that won't refit without damage ?
I am trying to figure out, from diagrams, whether there are some small plastic clips that hold rods to the door handles but I can't find any definitive pictures, video's, or diagrams before I start taking out the handles. I want to try to avoid having a situation where I find that I break a plastic clip and then I can't put the handles back into the door, and I can't lock the vehicle, and also then find that the offending item[s] are no longer available.
Any advice or assistance would be appreciated.
Hi, I would like to ask the experienced heads who know about the door handles on the P38 a question that doesn't come up on the really good thread posted by Orangebean.
Is it possible to modify a drivers' side front outer door handle from a LHD car to suit a RHD car ?
I am considering buying new handles as mine are quite worn in colour, and the two front handles are quite clunky and not fully closing. I was thinking about taking them out and repainting them with Rust-Oleum Hard Hat gloss black, and fitting repair kits to fix the handle return issue.
However, I thought that it may be quicker and easier to just buy new handles and fit them instead. I know that the passenger door handles, and the passenger front door handles, are all available but the drivers' side handle is no longer available new.
But - I have been offered a new, LHD car drivers' side door handle. So, I wonder whether it is possible to take off the left hand drive fittings and fit the old fitting, with a repair kit, STC3064 and the key barrel, and refit to the car thereby giving me a new door handle.
Hi, is it possible to change the rear door handles on a 2001 P38 ? I took off one of the door cards this afternoon but I can't see any way off taking off the handles. I saw a mention on the "Landyzone" that there is a metal frame that is riveted to the door frame that has to be drilled off and removed before the handle can be accessed.
When I looked inside the door frame the handle fittings seem to be right inside a folded section of the door, and I can't see any way of getting inside this piece of the door frame.
Any advice would be welcomed as I have new handles for the two rear doors, and the front passenger door. The drivers door is a separate issue as it appears that there is no real means of changing the handle and keeping the keys original. I have bought two replacement key fobs in the last two years, and the last thing I want is to find that they are now useless as I would have to fit a new barrel etc.
I am hoping that, even though the handle isn't pulling home fully, the handle will keep working with the key fob until I have to get rid of the motor [thank you Government !!!].
Hi, I would look for some help from the knowledgeable members on the forum, for removing some of the trim when changing the scuttle [plenum] filter.
I took the A-pillar trim off the other day, and cleaned all the rubbish out from behind it. I noticed that the screws are quite badly corroded in the plastic nut-locks or whatever they are called. I have ordered new ones because the rubber seals behind them are not the best and I don't want to leave a place where rain water could get in later.
[A] The question that I have is - how do you take off the black trim piece that runs across the bottom of the windscreen, and sits between the scuttle panel and the windscreen.
I saw a mention of just sliding this trim sideways, after removing the A-pillar trim panel. Is this the case, and will it just slide sideways ? That seems a little too easy, just looking at the trim itself. I had a little pick at it and it does seem fairly firmly fixed. At first attempt I can't quite see how it is going to slide sideways without a lot of persuasion, which will probably result in breaking all the plastic "x" shaped clips, which as everyone probably knows are now no longer available.
Is there a trick to getting the trim piece off, un-damaged ? Does the same piece have to be sealed with RTV silicon when being put back on ?
[B] One other thing - how do you upload pictures ? I saw an answer to this before but I couldn't see how it would let me upload pictures that I have taken. The brief explanation said that I would have to put in a hosting website hyperlink, which, as far as I know, I don't have. On the "alternative" forum, under "image" one can just drop a picture from the laptop or phone and then upload the post. Maybe someone could tell me how to go about uploading an image here, so that I can make a note of how to do it, for future reference ?
Hi, I would like to ask a very big favour of a member with a left hand drive P38, please ?
As members may be aware the RHD drivers' side door handle is no longer available, due to the fact that they come fitted with the original lock barrel, and LR don't supply them any longer. I have been looking everywhere for a replacement handle, with or without a lock barrel but I have not been able to source a RHD handle.
So, after having replaced all the other handles I have found a means of fitting a new handle for the drivers' side but it takes a little work and help from someone with a LHD vehicle.
I believe the answer is - buy a LHD passenger handle. This provides the mechanical position of the latch arm, and also contains the housing block for the key barrel. Having checked the mechanism of my own passenger side door handle I noticed that on the 2001 P38 the only difference with the drivers' door lock is that the actual latch arm [ the plastic arm with a hole in it] is positioned at the opposite side of the mechanism than the passenger side, and, obviously, there is a lock barrel in the drivers' side.
What this means is that the drivers side mechanism, on the RHD drivers' door handle, is the same as the LHD passenger side door handle but with a lock barrel fitted.
The reason that I would like help is that I can't order a LHD passenger side handle without a chassis number. I have telephoned both Rimmers and LR, in Liverpool, and they won't supply me with a LHD passenger handle without the VIN number. Why ? I have no idea, but I would hazard a guess that they know that you can modify the passenger handle to be a replacement for the drivers' side handle for a RHD vehicle.
So, would it be possible for someone with a LHD vehicle be able to PM me with a VIN for a LHD ? I would be most appreciative as, currently I have 3 new door handles fitted but the drivers' door does stand out a bit. It has taken a bit of working out as clear pictures of the different types of latch mechanisms are hard to find, and, as I have already found out, the Rave manual doesn't actually show the correct latch mechanism for a 2001 vehicle. I had to send two orders back to Rimmers until I finally got the correct handle for the front passenger door, even though I had given them the VIN.
The only thing, after fitting the key barrel into a LHD passenger door handle [using advice on a post by MartyUK] is to use a small hole saw to drill the lock barrel hole through the plastic outer cover of the handle.
I know that I could fit a new spring kit to my old handle [ it is not closing in fully, so needs replacement] and then perhaps spray the plastic covers black, but by fitting a complete new handle and fitting the lock barrel effectively means that I have fitted a whole new handle.
Sorry for the long post but I felt a full explanation is required so that if someone is prepared to PM me a VIN at least they know why I need it.
Hi, I want to fit a new scuttle [plenum] foam filter and, having read a lot of posts on the pro's and con's of replacing the pollen filters I decided to have a look at the means of removing the panel in front of the windscreen.
I would like to check how to remove the pillar panels that run up the side of the windscreen, the plastic items. I believe that there are screws underneath the plastic covers, and I am concerned that if I try to bend the plastic covers outwards, to get at the screws, then the covers will crack and split. How do the panels come off, so that I can get at the screws underneath ?
I saw some advice [from Symes] to suggest that only one side needs to be removed, as the lower [windscreen] panel slides out sideways, either on one side or the other.
As I say, my main concern is avoiding damaging the panel up the side of the windscreen. I would be inclined not to fit a new scuttle filter if the side panel are going to break.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Hi guys, I wonder whether someone could upload a picture showing where the VIN number on the front of the chassis is ?
I am getting grief from the tossers at my local NCT [MOT equivalent but worse] test station. They are not satisfied with the ones that you can see normally, the numpties "want to see" the chassis one. Unfortunately, my motor has been painted with heavy "underseal" so I can't find anything !!
I wonder whether anyone would know where to get a replacement drivers side [RHD] seat base ?
The leather is good to excellent but the bolster on the outer edge is starting to go flat. I have two new seat heating pads, drivers and passengers seats, but I would like to fit a new foam rubber seat base to the drivers side seat, to lift it back to near factory spec.
I have checked the usual P38 suppliers, and guys like Exmoor Trim, but I can't find anyone who does new seat bases.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Hi, I would like to ask for a bit of advice in relation to the never-ending issue of the book symbol on the HEVAC display.
I have read lots of posts giving solutions to the many issues which affect the air-con and ventilation in the P38, but I would like to see if these solutions are directly relevant to the reason the book symbol keeps appearing on the display in my P38.
I have replaced the pollen filters recently, cleaned and hoovered out the plenum area [?], fitted a new plenum filter, but the symbol is stillon the display.
The thing is, when I turn off the ignition, leave the car parked for a day or so and go back out in the vehicle then the symbol is not on the display, it only appears after about 15 minutes or so after setting off. Is this the air-mix flaps getting stuck, or will I need to go through the whole job of replacing the whole blower assembly.
The HEVAC display seems to clear the book symbol each time the ignition is turned off, but is this only the BeCM checking the system and then flagging the issue ?
I was hoping [!!!!!] that this may only be the air flap motor getting stuck, as described elsewhere, but I am wondering whether this is too simple a solution.
Any advice is appreciated, as I couldn't get cold air for the last few days in the hot weather.
Or am I asking too generalised a question ?
I want to check on something that I read about entering EKA codes using the key fob. I was under the impression that, when entering the EKA code, you put the key into the lock and then just turned the key to the locked position however number of times the first number is shown as. in other words, put in the key and immediately turn the key, for example, three times to the locked position, before repeating the operation in the unlocked position. So, if the EKA number is 2462, you would turn the key to te locked position twice, then to the unlocked position four times, then back to the locked position six times, and finally to the unlocked position twice. Then remove the key.
However, I have read a couple of posts elsewhere which says that before you actually start the process of entering the EKA code you have to turn the key 4 times to the locked position to tell the BeCM that you are about to enter the EKA code. Only after this operation of 4 turns to the locked position do you start to enter te EKA code.
Can anyone confirm that this is the correct method of EKA entry ? I have used the codes a few times and I have never "pre-entered" 4 turns to the locked position for the EKA code to work, I just went straight ahead and entered the four numbers using the "lock" and "unlock" sequence, and that seemed to work fine. This was when the key fob wouldn't remotely work because the buttons were duff.
I had better just check, as well, that it is the EKA code that I mean ? The four number code that works when the electronic fob doesn't work, isn't that the EKA code ?
Hi, I am looking for a bit of advice about the front passenger window not opening.
I had this problem a couple of months ago, but it was intermittent, the window would go all the way down and not return, perhaps for 12 hours, but then a press on the window switch and the window raised back up as normal.
I bought a working switch pack back in November and replaced the existing one in the vehicle, and everything worked as normal. But today the window wouldn't lower. I couldn't hear anything clicking, or grinding, or making any noise at all. All of the other windows are working normally, and the mirror control is OK.
Is this likely to be the switch pack again ? I would find the coincidence a bit strange as it is the front passenger window again. Before I replaced the switch pack all the other windows worked fine, as well.
Is this likely to be the window motor packing up ? It just seems odd that the problem only affects the front passenger window, and not any of the others.
If I need to replace the motor can it be done with the lift mechanism left in place, or does the whole mechanism need to be removed from the door ?
Any advice would be gratefully received.
Hi guys, I was reading the RAVE manual to see which washer pump is the windscreen one, but I have just noticed that RAVE seems only to refer to a LHD vehicle.
Are the washer pumps [and reservoir] located on the passenger side of the vehicle, whether the vehicle is LHD or RHD ? Or are they on the drivers's side, if we go by the RAVE manual ?
Hi guys, I'm looking for a bit of help.
My 2001 P38 has been behaving itself quite well during the pandemic, despite not being used very much. However, this weekend, after I had been out in it the keyfob didn't lock the vehicle when the button was pressed. It would unlock but not lock.
I have reregistered the key in the drivers' door lock, and I can lock and unlock with the key blade. The vehicle always starts when the key is put into the ignition.
But what I have noticed is that when I take the key out of the ignition switch there is no "click". I was explecting to hear the "click" when the key was removed and I am wondering whether this is somehow connected to the fact that the keyfob won't lock the vehicle.
Perhaps someone may have a solution to this issue. At least I can lock the motor with the key so that is something.