ZebCRS, I see that you have a mention on DemoZoo, but that just mentions various music projects. I see that you go back quite a long way, being involved in music projects. It is a bit of a change to go to designing software for P38's but I, for one, would be interested to see if you have a better option for the P38 diesel, than the Nanocom programmer.
Hi Morat, I have just fitted them, well, "just" being in January. I had a few jobs to do inside the car and replacing the carpets was the last job. The carpets that were fitted previously were original LR carpets but not from a P38. The two front carpets didn't clip in.
So, I am sorry to say, I won't be selling them !!! I know that they are impossible to find nowadays, and I was considering getting 3rd party ones from one of the car carpet suppliers, but I have never found any of those companies make decent quality carpets. I had a 1979 Merc, a few years ago, which had lambswool overmats and I thought about fitting new ones but they were impossible to find. The ones in my Merc were original from Mercedes back in the 70's but anything similar, 4 years ago, were very poor quality in comparison.
StrangeRover, I have a 2001 DHSE the same colour as yours. I replaced all the black ABS plastics in the centre console from the elbow rest, between the seats, to the panel where the EAS switches, headlight switch etc. are, with the ABS walnut style pieces. And I have a brand new set of original Range Rover carpets for the lightstone trim. I got them from someone that I knew, who was a parts dealer, and they were laying in the back of his store warehouse until he found them about 18 months ago. I was really pleased as they have all the carpet clips, and they came still taped up in their original, unopened box.
Monte Carlo Blue always polishes up well. I like it.
Mad-as, the glass [or the door] rattles when the glass is not longer held in place by the top of the door frame. But I haven't tried pushing the door closed with my hand on the glass. And that's not a bad idea. I did try to get my fingers down between the outside window rubber seal, but I didn't see any discernable difference, and I didn't want to damage the seal either.
I haven't yet tried my other car, which has large front door windows. I must remember to try it soon.
It's a bit of a puzzle, as everything in the door space is firmly fixed. The only thing that I can think of is that the regulator has a very small bit of flexing somewhere, and that replacing it will put in place a stronger unit.
Hi, so I stripped the door today, and found nothing loose. I drilled out te rivets in the regulator and took it out, and then took off the motor and greased up everything with fresh grease, reassembled and refitted it. The only very small thing that I noticed is a slight flex in the bottom of the regulator plate, where it is fixed to the door, very little movement and it is only where the glass is rolled right up to the top of the travel, into the window frame. The regulator plate isn't moving, it just flexs very marginally under pressure at full travel.
I think that the rattle when the door closes is simply the glass rattling because there is nothing to actually support the top of the glass when it is partly down. I know that it is sitting in a rubber seal, which is correctly located in the track, but it is a big piece of glass and without it being gripped by the window edges then there is room to move. I suspect that there is a bit of room created by the inner door panel after years of being pulled closed with the elbow rest in the door. It looks like that when the car was new the door panel may have been quite a bit tighter against the glass but over the years the gap has expanded very slightly.
As I don't really close the doors with the windows open, except for the odd time when I don't want to be locked out of the car, I am not going to worry about it any more. The doors close perfectly, and both front door handles operate perfectly so perhaps I am looking for an imaginary problem. When I think about it I having a feeling that my Lexus may do the same thing if the windows are open. I must test that !!
The one good thing that was achieved is that the regulator and the motor gear, are all thoroughly greased, including the plastic runners at the bottom of the glass.
Harv, that's what happened to the drivers' side door, I had to replace the window regulator, and when I took out the old regulator I found the window seal that should have been in the track, was laying in the bottom of the door.
As I hadn't noticed the glass rattling before I didn't check it so now I will have to check both the reulator and the seal. What I do have, at least, are 6 x 15 mm stainless steel dome-head bolts with nyloc nuts which I used to fit the drivers' side regulator. So when the weather gets a bit warmer I think that I will that I might just drill out the old rivets and replace them, just to be sure that the regulator is held tight.
At least if I bolt the regulator in then it will be easier to fit a new regulator should it ever be needed.
Yes, I had considered the regulator. I know that I need to strip the door down again but the weather outside isn't that conducive to spend a load of time outside, and on top of that I need to have the car in decent condition this week and next because I have visitors whom I need to run around with. So having the door panel off will not be ideal !!
Hi, a quick question, if I may. I will need to investigate the issue but I thought that there may be a few suggestions as to an answer.
I did a job on the door handle on the passenger side door [RHD]. It was not fully pulling in, even the the handle was only 18 months old, I had replaced all the handles in 2021 because I wanted to get back to OEM black handles. But the nearside handle started sticking a few weeks ago so I took it out today. Everything was OK, still very new, so a liberal dose of copper spray has sorted out that problem, it pulls in proerly now.
The question that I have is that when the window is down, or even partly down, there is a rattle when the door is closed. Not slamming the door, just pushing it closed with enough force for the door to close. I didn't check for anything before refitting the membrane and the door panel as I hadn't moved anything except the disconnecting of the door handle rod so that I could take out the handle.
When the window is fully closed, into the top door frame, then there is no rattle. The window winds both down and back up without any issues. But I am wondering whether this rattle could be the track window seal, that is in a track at the front of the door, having dropped out. The same seal was sitting in the bottom of the door on the drivers side when I replaced the winder mechanism last month.
I know that I will have to do the hard work myself, but I am just wondering whether this is a problem at all, just that the glass can rattle in the door because it is in the lowered position.
Richard, a good point, that. I am thinking that the spring clip thing could have let go of the link arm. I do actually have a few new replacement ones. I will have a look at it if the weather is good this weekend.
Now that you mention that screw that holds the door handle - there is a metal spacing block inside the door that the screw goes through. The first time I took off the handle that block disappeared down inside the door and I couldn't find it, or figure out what had dropped. Now it is glued to the inside of the door !!!
A further issue with the drivers' side door handle - I fitted everything back into the door, last week. I had checked the window for operation, having fitted a new regulator, and refitted the inner door window seal that had fallen down.
I also checked and tested the cill door lock button, and the inside door handle release and everything was working OK.
BUT, I didn't check, for some unknown reason, the key in the door handle. I have only discovered today that the key doesn't lock the door !!
The remote fob works fine but for some reason the key isn't doing anything. I remember fitting, and when I refitted the handle I saw that the link from the handle was attached, along with the latch link. When I put the key in it turns OK, but there isn't any kind of "pressure" which I had expected.
Without opening the water shedder membrane I wonder whether there would be any suggestions as to what may have happened. Is it likely that the lock link arm could have dropped off while the handle was being refitted ?
I suppose that the headliner being a fibreglass panel then it wouldn't be damaged by using a pressure washer to clean it off. Interesting idea, certainly.
But not as big a game changer as sitting on your own, with a cat that doesn't talk, in a cold car, of which you have left the keys inside and you don't want to ring the doorbell to ask Madame if she could give you the keys to start the car and run the heater. That's a game-changer, I can tell you.
Reading your post, Richard, I had to go back to the adhesive instructions and it does indeed say that you have to spray it on both sides. Duhhhh, I just couldn't remember doing it but Madame says that "Yes, we did, you klutz, do you not remember laying it out on the lawn out the back of the house !!!".
So I just stormed off with the cat and I'm now sitting in the car, in the cold until she calls me back in, out of sympathy. I just hope that she doesn't take too long as it's cold out here.
I was lucky in that the old material came off cleanly. I think that the roof had been relined previously because there were one or two black marker marks on the fibreglass, and the old material just pulled off without leaving any residue. So at least I didn't have to go scrubbing with a wire brush or whatever.
I used the roof lining from Martrim, in Oatmeal, which I believe is the lining when the leather trim is Light Stone. I also used Tensorgrip T44 high temperature adhesive, which gives you about 10 minutes to attach the material. Just bear in mind with these adhesives you can't take the material back up once you have let it touch the adhesive. It's a one time job !!!!
As GilbertD rightly says, you will need two people at least. But it is fairly straight forward with two people, provided that the other person is fairly good with their hands. I did mine with my wife and it turned out pretty much perfect. We just looked at the fibreglass panel carefully and practiced laying down the new fabric a load of times until we got it right in our minds.
We only sprayed the fibreglass with a spray-on adhesive, we didn't bother doing the material as that would have meant laying the material upsidedown on the floor. The corners and edges, such as where the grab handles go, and the awkward bits at the tailgate end, and the sunroof cutout, took a while to do, and necessitated ensuring that the material didn't touch the fibreglass while working on the tricky bits. We started at the tailgate end and worked up the panel, also working the material outwards from the centreline to the sides.
There are a couple of decent videos online which will show you how to cut the holes for the grab handles, the roof lights and the front courtesy light. Make sure that you cut the holes from one corner to the opposite corner, crosswise, and don't cut right into the corner as you need to work a bit of material around the edge of the holes to ensure that you can't see any cuts where the roof fitting are located.
It took us about 4 hours to lay down the material, and make all the cutouts. I took out the sunroof cassette to do the sunroof panel. The edges on this panel are a bit awkward because there is very little of an edge to stick the material to, where you fold it over the edges of the panel. We used bulldog clips all around the edges and it has stayed stuck down since - about two years now.
Leolito - I wondered whether the cam kits are different for LHD cars and RHD cars. I looked at Rimmers description and they don't specify whether LHD or RHD.
I had a look in my garage to check the part numbers with each other - I have two new ones, from Rimmers about 3 years ago, still in packets, one LH Side and one RH Side - and two that I bought about 3 months ago from British Cars Utah, in the States, again with the same part numbers as the ones from Rimmers, and they are exactly the same.
I haven't actually used the ones from Utah, but they are original Land Rover, old stock, and I can't see any difference between the two different types of kit. I think [perhaps mistakenly] that there is no difference between cam kits bought in the US, the UK, or the EU.
I have just compared the part numbers STC3063, one from Rimmers and made in the UK, and the other from the US and made in Germany, and they are both exactly the same. In the descriptions in either the States and the UK the part 3063 is for the LH side door handle. There is no difference between the fittings.
So, if one is stuck buying in the UK one can just order from abroad, and once the correct part number is ordered then it will fit, for example the drivers' door handle, whether the car is LHD or RHD.
Richard, I haven't put the shedder or door panel back yet, fortunately.
When I had the latch out I did run some sewing machine oil down the wire sleeve belonging to the inner handle cable. So it is moving very freely. And the cable run looks uninterrupted, held in place by the plastic clip in the door. And the cable is almost new [compared to the car !!].
I will have to wait until the weather improves before I go outside and have another root about at it. I don't see any issue with the actual inner handle springing back, it snaps back pretty well, but it might just be something that needs replacing, perhaps the snap back isn't as good as it should be. It's the only other item that I can see that I haven't really looked at closely.
And just to add insult to injury, this evening, I pressed the "Prog" button to clear the frost on the tailgate glass and windscreen and the passenger side fan started clattering away like a mad yoke. So now I have to replace that !!!! Oh the joys.............................
I posted a thread about having door latch problems a couple of weeks ago, and that I thought that I had sorted them out, but today the driver's side door latch still seems to be an issue.
The latch didn't seem to relatch after the inside door pull handle is used. So when getting out of the car I would pull the handle and open the door but when I push the door closed the door just bounces back open, and I have to pull the inner handle back as far as possible and then let it spring back. Then the door will close properly.
It appears that the latch is being held in the "open" condition after I let go of the inner pull handle. It never happens with the outside handle, only the inner one.
There isn't any adjustment on the cable between the handle and the latch, and I fitted a new cable and a new latch last year so I am a bit perplexed by this problem
I took out the existing latch and gave it a good spray with a lubricant similar to WD40 and it was working perfectly but today it was acting the bollix again. I am beginning to wonder whether I need to buy yet another new latch, which I really don't want to do considering the cost of them. it just seems that when the inner handle pulls the arm on the latch it isn't springing back but there is no adjustment anywhere in the latch.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Hi, interesting reading. I had often thought about buying a drivers' side latch, for a LHD car, to fit on the passenger side door of my car, a RHD P38. But as has been mentioned, the RHD drivers' side latch can be the problem. I looked it up yesterday and, as you guys are probably well aware, the are around £250 a piece.
I had to buy and fit a new one last year, myself. It has been in for about 12-15 months, but for some reason known only to itself it started the cill button locking trick. I stopped outside someones house, about a month ago and found that the doors were locked, and, as happens in these cases, when I pulled up the cill buttin it just popped straight back down.
I stripped the latch out and soaked it in Starrett light oil and it seems to be perfect again. What I have noticed is that it locks much quicker than before, and operates more quietly. It had been running for a couple of seconds previously, before it locked, so I had an idea that something was not quite right, but then it is a pretty new latch mechanism so I didn't pay that much attention to it ! Sort of a slow-motion lock.
Anyway, it is working fine now, so hopefully it stays that way.
They were available in the US for sure, three weeks ago, I know because I bought one for each side. If they are not available from a EU supplier that may be the only option open to you.