I would like to ask a further question regarding the handbrake - when I get the rear of the vehicle lifted off the ground, with the ignition off, will the rear wheels turn without causing the front wheels to turn.

Obviously, I don't want to be under the vehicle with the rear on axle stands, turning the rear diff, and the vehicle suddenly moves forwards or backwards.

With the ignition off is the centre diff freewheeling, or do I have to follow the instructions listed in RAVE to disconnect the centre diff as per towing or brake testing ?

I only have two axle stands and I don't want, under any circumstances, to keep the front of the vehicle lifted on the jack only.

Pierre3.

I decided that I would replace the foam rubber base in the drivers front seat, as the side squab thingy had got a bit worn down and didn't look quite right. I was very lucky to find a complete seat base, new old stock, for sale so I bought it fairly cheaply. It was out of a Vogue Anniversary or something like that, I think. Anyway, it had green leather whereas mine is Light Stone [or Lightstone], but as I was keeping my original leather I wasn't bothered about the new seat cover. My leather is in good nick so I didn't want to make it obvious that I had replaced the foam base.

It turned out to be an interesting job, and not very difficult. There are a few things that needed a bit of thought about. For instance, reading RAVE says go under the seat and unplug the electrical connectors. As I found out there is quite a difference between different seat bases. On the Vogue seat base, when I ordered it, I could see that it had the same set-up of motors as mine, with a mounting plate with the cable connectors clipped to it, but when I looked under my existing seat it turned out that mine has an outstation bolted to the base.

So the new seat base has only cable connectors and two yellow relays for the motors but mine has a full outstation box with many more connections, including the seat back controls. Therefore, I couldn't just remove my leather seat cover and put it onto the new seat base, I had to remove both foam rubber seat bases and then remove the leather from both and swap them around. The most difficult bit is getting all the hog rings out, but when I read up about replacing them a lot of people on different sites have used tie-wraps in place of metal hog rings. As I don't have either hog rings or hog ring pliers, which would have meant waiting for them to be delivered if I ordered them off the internet, I decided to use tie-wraps.

Being in the electrical trade for many years I have a large collection of various sized tie-wraps so I used fairly wide, heavy duty ones and I reckon that they are stronger than the original hog rings but are just as unobtrusive. When you now look at the seat you wouldn't know the difference and the seat is now much firmer than it was.

Another thing I learned was that, as there are a couple of electrical plugs that need to be connected that go into the vehicle wiring system, when you put the seat back in position there is no way you can get you hand in under the seat. For some reason LR decided to mount the outstation under the seat and face the plug connections facing backwards and with the plug clips, which you need to press down to release the plugs, facing upwards right under the seat. So to unplug them you need to unscrew the outstation so that you can turn it upside-down to unplug, but when you refit the seat you put it roughly in position and then put two wooden blocks, or any other support, and lift the back of the seat right up. Then you can get your hand under the seat to reconnect the plugs that are coming from the wiring loom in the car.

As there are three axles running across the seat base, from side to side, there is no room to work under the seat. On the Vogue seat base it is completely different as there is no outstation and therefore quite a bit of room to get your hand underneath.

The only other pain in the ass are the fir tree fasteners that hold the ABS plastic surrounds, valances, in position. I found that they are very difficult to remove and can't really be used again to refit the valances. As they are NLA [no longer available] one just has to look for alternatives. I used the plastic rivet things from a Landrover Defender roof lining which have a body that pushes into the hole and a cap that then pushes into the body, effectively causing the end of the body to spread and grip. But I do suspect that the fir tree fasteners are likely to be available somewhere for newer cars made by somebody else.

The end result is that you can't tell that the seat has been apart, everything works as it did before, but the base is now firmer with more shape than it was. There are a few posts elsewhere that suggest using the seat base from the passenger side seat but I did email a few breakers and the passenger seats that they all had were no better than my existing drivers seat so that wouldn't have been worth it. And, I believe that there are a couple of retrim companies willing to make on but for nowhere near what I bought my new, old stock seat base for. I paid £100 including delivery, whereas, if you could get one but they are NLA, a new one would cost around nearly £300 if I remember correctly. I'm not quite sure whether the motors are inter-changeable though as they appear to be wired a bit differently. I wonder whether this is to do with memory option that I have on my seats.

Pierre3.

Hi, yet another question !!

I need to do a job on the handbrake and therefore the propshaft guard and the rear propshaft connection to the rear diff has to come off. I have a UJ 9/16th extended socket [from a few years back for some reason], but I wonder if somebody can tell me the correct bolt length for the rear diff so that I can order new ones before I start. Also, if possible what length are the propshaft guard bolts ?

I looked through the RAVE manual but it doesn't give the sizes unfortunately. I just know that the head size of the guard bolts and the diff nuts all seem to be 3/8 BSF but maybe someone could confirm this, please ?

Pierre3.

Hi again !! I am a bit puzzled or, more correctly, a bit concerned about a loss of coolant from the P38. I have a feeling that I know what it is but I am hoping that someone, who has experienced it, might be able to sort of confirm my suspicion.

Now that the weather has got a bit cooler I have had the heaters on warm or hot, to give a bit of extra warmth in the vehicle. I have noticed that the coolant is now disappearing at about a quarter of a pint over a 50 mile shopping/going for coffee journey. This is in comparison to a journey to Scotland, two months ago, which was about 600 miles in total and didn't use any coolant.

So, basically, there didn't seem to be coolant loss when the heaters are not used, but now that they are used the coolant is disappearing.

The issue seems to only be on short, multiple journeys, and seemingly when the heaters are used. I strongly suspect that the carpet is a bit damp under the heater unit, inside the vehicle, and I am wondering if this could be caused by the famous rubber seals on the heater pipes from the engine into the cabin leaking ?

Pierre3.

Hi, I have looked through the archives to see what information is about, on how I can check my ABS brake system. Basically, the tester at my local NCT test centre , in Ireland, has failed my P38 initially on the ABS not working, and then secondly on the handbrake not having sufficient brake force.

So, the image is of the brake test arrangement as used by my local, and only test centre in Dublin [north], which they insist has been updated to be able to test permanent for-wheel drives.

On my last test, a couple of days ago my P38 failed the ABS test until, after 40 minutes of heated discussions, got the tester to drive the vehicle on the road outside, after which he came back, and with very bad grace, accepted that the ABS "seemed" to be working OK. But then, like a Monty Python sketch, he told me that the vehicle still failed the test because the handbrake had insufficient force - "so there" !

I can accept, to some degree, that the handbrake may not be as good as perhaps it could, maybe it needs tightening up at the adjuster screw on the drum, but the brake is able to hold the vehicle, on the second "click" of the brake lever, on a slight hill even when putting light pressure on the throttle to increase the engine revs. The vehicle doesn't move forward, but, again, I accept that this is not a 100% test of the efficiency of the handbrake. I will try to adjust it tighter this weekend.

So my two main questions are firstly, - how can I physically test the ABS system, and how would I know if the ABS pump is not putting as much pressure out as it should ? Is this possible, that the pump pressure is being reduced by age and use, or does the pump either work or not work, thereby needing replacement.

The second question is - what is the best way to test the handbrake, allowing for the fact that I am doing this outside my house and not in a garage ?

Hopefully, the forum may have some updated advice on this issue.

Oierre3.

Hi, I would like to ask members about the front seat electric motors in the P38. I have had the great fortune to pick up a new complete elecric seat base and I want to use it to, firstly, change the leather seat cover from my existing front seat to the new seat, and secondly, fit that complete new base in place of the existing seat base.

My main question is - is there any setting up of the motors when you take them out and refit them ? Or, because I have a complete seat base, on its' runners, is it just a case of bolting it in, refitting the switch panel on the side, and away I go ?

Best regards, Pierre3.

Hi, a quick question, if I may. I will need to investigate the issue but I thought that there may be a few suggestions as to an answer.

I did a job on the door handle on the passenger side door [RHD]. It was not fully pulling in, even the the handle was only 18 months old, I had replaced all the handles in 2021 because I wanted to get back to OEM black handles. But the nearside handle started sticking a few weeks ago so I took it out today. Everything was OK, still very new, so a liberal dose of copper spray has sorted out that problem, it pulls in proerly now.

The question that I have is that when the window is down, or even partly down, there is a rattle when the door is closed. Not slamming the door, just pushing it closed with enough force for the door to close. I didn't check for anything before refitting the membrane and the door panel as I hadn't moved anything except the disconnecting of the door handle rod so that I could take out the handle.

When the window is fully closed, into the top door frame, then there is no rattle. The window winds both down and back up without any issues. But I am wondering whether this rattle could be the track window seal, that is in a track at the front of the door, having dropped out. The same seal was sitting in the bottom of the door on the drivers side when I replaced the winder mechanism last month.

I know that I will have to do the hard work myself, but I am just wondering whether this is a problem at all, just that the glass can rattle in the door because it is in the lowered position.

Pierre3.

I posted a thread about having door latch problems a couple of weeks ago, and that I thought that I had sorted them out, but today the driver's side door latch still seems to be an issue.

The latch didn't seem to relatch after the inside door pull handle is used. So when getting out of the car I would pull the handle and open the door but when I push the door closed the door just bounces back open, and I have to pull the inner handle back as far as possible and then let it spring back. Then the door will close properly.

It appears that the latch is being held in the "open" condition after I let go of the inner pull handle. It never happens with the outside handle, only the inner one.

There isn't any adjustment on the cable between the handle and the latch, and I fitted a new cable and a new latch last year so I am a bit perplexed by this problem

I took out the existing latch and gave it a good spray with a lubricant similar to WD40 and it was working perfectly but today it was acting the bollix again. I am beginning to wonder whether I need to buy yet another new latch, which I really don't want to do considering the cost of them. it just seems that when the inner handle pulls the arm on the latch it isn't springing back but there is no adjustment anywhere in the latch.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Pierre3.

I was reading through a few threads about problems with latches going faulty and I noticed that Richard [GilbertD] mentioned that the door latches fitted to the MG F are the same as fitted to a 2001 P38.

RH https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-FQJ102281PMA and LH https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-FQJ102292PMA

I wonder, are these a straight swap ? But having asked the question here I see that they don't appear to be available any more. I'd be interested to find out whether they can still be bought. I will look elsewhere on the wobbly wonder web and see what comes up. I wouldn't be surprised if they are available, in LHD form, in the US.

UPDATE: I looked up the part numbers and, indeed, they are LHD car part numbers. So I think that probably answers the question - that they are NLA.

Pierre3.

Hi, I had to strip the driver's door to fit a new window regulator, refit the inside door window seal, and "service" the door latch. This meant pulling off the original inner door water shedder, or membrane. I have a new one to refit, but I need to remove the black gloop that held on the original one.

I am interested to know if there is a quick and easy way to break down the gloop to get it off. Would white spirit work, or maybe rubbing alcohol ? I have to lift off the largest part of it with a chisel or a scraper, but I would like to get a clean panel before I fit the new membrane.

Any suggestions welcomed :)

Pierre3.

I found this picture on another website. As it seems that there are a couple of ex-police cars on here then maybe someone here now owns these two cars.

Pierre3.

Hi guys, I wonder if someone can recognise the seal in the following pictures, please. I found it in the bottom of the drivers' side door space when I took the door card off.

Pierre3.

Hi guys, I would just like to wish everyone a Happy Christmas, and a Prosperous New Year. Thanks for all te advice given over the past 12 months. [I was going to download a Christmas card gif but it won't load here !!].

I do have a problem that has been annoying me for a while, when I open the drivers' side door the latch seems to be sticking in the open position, meaning that when I close the door it just bounces back open. I can get around it by giving the innner door release handle a hard pull to fully open and then letting it go so that it snaps back. Then the door closes and the latch keeps the door closed.

It has been doing this on and off for a couple of months but it is not yet terminal - but is this a sign that the latch is goosed ?

A couple of days ago the door lock threw a wobbler, which I have seen mentioned a good few times. I went to get out of the car only to find that all the doors were locked, but when I pulled up the drivers side lock button [in the door] all the buttons hopped up, the doors unlocked, except for the drivers' side door, and then immediately locked again.

I was able to get out the passenger side, and this morning, having followed advice from a RR guy in Wales, Iain McKee, I opened the drivers' side lock so that all the locks are open. Currently, the car now unlocks and relocks without a problem, but the latch is still an issue, in that it will still bounce back open when I go to close the door.

So, would I be right in saying that the door latch unit, with the micro-switches, is goosed and needs replacing ?

Pierre3.

Hi, I was just wondering whether there is any difference in the front ABS sensors and the rear ABS sensors as far as the connector cables are comcerned.

I was considering keeping two new rear sensors in the garage and one of the sellers mentioned that he had rear sensors with long cables. I was under the impression that the cables were all the same length ?

Pierre3.

After looking through a collection of pictures that I have about the door handles I can now see what the cam kit does. So, no need to have to post any replies 😀 .

Hi guys, could somebody explain where this cam kit fits, please ? STC3064 KIT-CAM DOOR LOCK.

I was talking to a friend, last week, and mentioned that the nearside front door handle isn't pulling right in, even though it is only 18 months old. I bought all new handles from Rimmers the year before last and for some reason the passenger door front isn't springing fully back into the door.

The guy I spoke to suggested getting a new door lock cam kit. But where does this cam fit. The Rimmer diagram doesn't actually show whether it fits in the door handle or the door latch.

Pierre3.

Hi guys, I took my P38 for its annual test, this morning, and it failed on an ABS issue.

I had new front brake pads fitted, and a new caliper on the front passenger side, last week. The brakes, under normal road conditions, appear to be working perfectly. However, the guy in the test centre failed the test because he said that the drivers side front brake is "locking" when under braking. I don't quite understand what he is on about, but he said that it is an ABS fault.

Would anyone here on the forum have any idea what could be happening ? The brake caliper on the drivers side is the original item, but my garage guy says that it is working fine and doesn't need replacing.

I am wondering, have a memory of seeing ABS issues, whether the ABS unit could be faulty, and would it then produce the test failure fault, i.e. "locking" up the right hand wheel ?

Pierre3.

Hi, I wonder whether someone could tell me the best way to replace the vapour/water barrier in the two front doors.

The existing barriers are kind of OK, but I have to fit a new window regulator in the drivers' side door [UK car] and the water barrier in this door has been opened quite a few times and I think that it is time just to fit a new one after the regulator is changed.

I looked on the internet and the only kit that I can find is from Australia, so I am ignoring that. I would prefer to fit original water barriers but does anyone know whether they are still available ? Perhaps someone has a part number ?

I suppose in the worst case scenario I could just use clear plastic, but the original water barriers are a kind of foam, and I suspect that this could make a difference in sound proofing, as well as preventing water vapour getting into the door card.

Any help would be appreciated, as always.

Pierre3.

Hi, I am back again - this time I am looking for a clue as to why my fuel gauge is acting strangely.

In the past two years I have had the gauge act with a mind of its' own, in that when the tank level gets down to just below half-full the gauge will suddenly drop to empty. It will stay like that for perhaps 10 miles, or else if the ignition is turned off, and then it comes back up again.

This morning, when I turned on the ignotion the gauge sat on empty, but for the first time a message came up "Fuel Gauge Fault". This stayed on for about 5 minutes and when I went to drive off I noticed that it had gone and the gauge was back up at its normal position [depending on fuel level].

I asked my local garage guy and he thought that it is a cable issue, he suggested that it could be the connections on the top of the pump or a plug connection a bit further along the cable [wherever that might be].

Perhaps someone can suggest what could be the issue ?

Currently waiting for new brake pads to arrive, although I think that I may replace the discs as well. They look a bit heavily grooved but I was looking in poor light. I will look again tomorrow.

Pierre3.

I wonder whether anyone might have an idea what is causing a grinding noise at very slow speeds. I have noticed this just in the last day, when I slow to a stop, at traffic lights for instance, if I let the car move slightly forward with my foot still on the brake I have noticed a mechanical grinding noise and a roughness in the drive.

As soon as I drive off, however, everything seems normal, the noise and the grinding sensation disappears. I don't see any problems with the gearbox, the oil was changed three moths ago and all has been well, so I am wondering whether there is something going on with the front diff ? I have no reason to suggest this except from reading other posts regards the diff going down the pan.

Any suggestions would be welcome , to give me an idea of where to start looking.

Pierre3.

Hi, I wonder whether someone may have an idea why I get the occasional warning beep and a message to say that I have low brake fluid ?

I have checked the fluid level several times since the message started to appear about a month ago, but it is between the two levels consistently. I have followed the hand book instruction for checking and nothing seems untoward. The brakes are working perfectly, including trying an emergency stop, and the ABS lights go out as they should at start up.

Is it possible that there is a sensor somewhere that has started to misread the level in the reservoir ? The issue doesn't happen every time I take the car out, it is random, nothing seems to particularly cause it.

The first time it happened I was parked, partly on and partly off, a kerb outside a shop, and as I drove off I got the message which them immediately went off again. It does this each time when it happens, just a beep, a message, and then OK again. But maybe one time a week, maybe two times a week.

Maybe someone might have come across this ?

Pierre3.