Well I got a couple of ramps and its on them away from anything that is expensive!

Will leave it on them overnight and when the parts come tomorrow will take the UJ off, refit and see if it fixes it.

If we didn't have 1 foot of snow still left I might have been finished. Think these shouldn't be changed every couple of years anyway.

Just hoping its not something else.

Thanks.

Managed to just get under, Put it in high mode but the ground here is soo uneven its certainly not easy. Going to get a set of ramps as working under will be a nightmare.

I can't get the propshaft to move even with a pry bar, when i mean move I am looking for play. This is making me think that the replaced Front Differential is broken.

I will get the UJ and stuff tomorrow in the post so hopefully take the propshaft off and turn the front diff. (Will I need the front wheels off the ground to do this?) If it is anything other then smooth I will take the casing off and see if we have a mess of gears. Been on the phone to ashcroft to see how quick they can get a new diff to me.

Thanks. This forum is starting to become a lifesaver! Haven’t got the cash or the time for doing all the suspension bushes. Need to sort the breakdown first.

What bushes do people go for. OEM or poly. Given I will probably do the whole car at some point buying tools is an option. Also should they always we done on both sides at the same time?

Thanks, I got that idea from the message, I am deep in snow right now so hence don't fancy working on it today.

Will order a UJ, should I order bolts and prop shaft socket as well? What about prop-shaft gaiter? Are there things that you would replace while you there?

The original front Diff, went bang on the M25 with oil going everywhere, Sounded slushy and banging when moving. This time, regular bangs when moving, in gear and out of gear. A landrover Indy garage replaced the front diff and charged about £400 for it, so would hope its good.

They are standard wheels as far as I am aware. 16"

Not big but the last time I jacked a L322 on a slope like this it wasn't happy on the stands and almost fell off due to the lean. Yes I could turn it around but less access on that side. A set of ramps is easiest I think.

OK Will order a UJ today, need to get some ramps as I can't get underneath it due to being on a hill don't want to jack it to work underneath. I have hired a car for next week for work so will get some then and take a good look next week.

Any ideas on what causes it to pull? Seems fine at slow speeds but like being in a large van being pushed about by the wind when you hit ridges in the road surface.

It has pulled since I got it!

Thanks Gilbert,

That’s kind of where I was going as the rear diff is not likely to go bang is it. Still moves and drives but only if I have too. My house is remote and recovery trucks can’t get up drive so I had to drive it up. Didn’t feel down on power just painfully noisy.

OK so my P38 ownership is not going soo well.

Bought for £1,550 last month and front diff broke on the M25 on the way home. (insurance company are claiming not covered and sent a bill for £530 for recovery)

Replaced the front diff at a local garage for £400.

Book symbol on display and no heating as such. Ordered full replacement hoses and thermostat. (Still in boxes)
Full service kit purchase as dubious service interval on last occasion.
Remote Key fob stopped working now using the EKA to code to get in until can lay my hands on a nanocomm.

Finally on Thursday night broke down again. Recovered home and not sure I want to pay a garage again. When moving there is a loud knock I can fell it though the pedals/footwell, The faster I go the more frequent it gets, The more distance it goes the louder and at slower speeds it starts. I am suspecting rear diff. Would anyone suggest any different? Could it be a faulty front diff again? What else should i think of changing if this is the case.

Finally when going along it pulls to either side like its stuck in the tram tracks on the roads the trucks leave in the road. Not always but randomly when driving. Gives a very unsure driving form.

Should I fix it and sell it for spares?

Local place can do it but want £40 to do it!!!

I am about quite a bit this week and will be in the Oxford area on Thursday with the car if anyone wants to earn the money themselves.

Otherwise £40 to an indy to turn off a setting might not be worth it and add to the get a new key fund.

Thanks.

OK, So i guess then its not worth doing then.

Can Timpsons make a blade key that will let me into the car and start it with the EKA code? I could then send my key off for repair. Or are there still electrics in the key that are needed? Can people actually fix these key or is a waste of time.

With LR saying 8 to 10 weeks for key I suspect that the car will go wrong a few more times in the next few months and i will regret ordering a key for £200. Its the all out get out and guess that as I only need one key will not matter what one I order.

There are soo many mixed messages out there is confusing!

So if I understand this correctly if I disable Passive Immobilisation. I can unlock the car with the key and start it without having to enter the EKA code?
This will mean that remote central locking will not work is that correct?

What I am thinking of doing is getting it turned off so I can use the car a bit over the winter before I swap back to the summer car meaning the key situation can be fixed at leisure. Ive only had the P38 two months and don't want to spend another £200 on key that might or might not work. I am probably more likely to wear out the drivers door entering the EKA code every time.

Can someone clear this up for me?

Thanks.

They are a landrover Indy. At the moment with no remote at all I am buggered if the lock breaks or the micro switches go. Will get a remote key but £200 and 6 weeks is a lot of extra turns on the door lock entering the EKA.

Ahh OK, i read something about that but couldn't fully understand it. There is a indy up the road that might be able to plug in a do it for me. I will look into getting the key remote sorted at a later date once the exhaust and tyres are done.

I’m happy with just a blade key but how do I stop the car asking me to put in the EKA code?

Is that something someone can do within a 1 hour drive of the Severn bridge?

Stealer no.1 want £204 for a key!!! That’s 13% of what the car cost!

Stealer no.2 wants £276+Vat!!!!

Stealer no.3 wants £204.

Think we have a price set now.

I don’t I’m afraid. In south east Wales if anyone has one.

The key operates the central locking but the remote never works, I think i have found that the key is not actually sending out RF. The Park light is not coming on I must have had interference when I checked the other day. I have the blank blade from the replacement fob, I am thinking of getting this cut to use as a EKA key and send the broken one out for repair. Alternatively get a new key from LR at £150 ish.

Stealer want £50 to show me how to get the Remote to work! Then another £50 if it needs to into the garage, and then 30m later £125 an hour!

I know how it should work, but its not working, Looks like the Parking Light comes on when the remote buttons are pressed the one by the gear level. That must mean the RF receiver is working. If i can use the EKA on the driver door then that must mean the switch is working. So why then is the key not syncing? Found on the interet that there are only 100 codes so eventually the key and the car will be on the same? Is this true?

I think a trip to a local garage to see if they will switch on or check if passive immobilisation is switched on is worth it then. I have only had the car a few weeks and am finding lots I need to do.

Cleaned of the A Pillars today as the felt stuff was flacking off.

Changed the handbrake gaiter

Full coolant pipes and thermostat ordered.

Full service kit ordered.

All carpets shampooed and cleaned.

Leather seats cleaned. etc etc.