Well I’m sorry to say I am moving to Ireland! The only bad news with this is that they charge tax on Emissions and then multiply by the engine size!
Brings the P38 to about £2k per year just for tax!
Unfortunately this means I am going to have to move on my 97 P38 HSE in good condition with a few minor issues. Currently on a private plate but will go back to R448 XUD
Known issues
Headliner sags
Aircon needs recharge
Remote central locking (key broke)
Good points
All original wheels and on 2013 19” alloys including two spares!
New blend motors fitted.
Given love and care at last summers meet
Currently having new Union joints fitted.
Done around 120k miles.
If anyone is interested then let me know.
Mobile office concept and the price!
Prices generally seem to be on the up though!
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201909132188795?atmobcid=soc3
Wahoo!!
She passed with two advisories..
Anti Roll Bar linkage ball joint has slight play offside front
And
It’s a Land Rover so it’s got an oil leak!
Over 20,000 miles done on Petrol no LPG fitted almost stock running. Bargain motoring and fun!
Hello all,
OK so the P38 had its biggest outing soo far from South Wales to Spa Francorchamps and back towing a 2 tonne caravan all the way out and back in three days. Poor girl had to work a bit hard on the hills in the heat but plodded along at a healthy ish 16mpg.
Now when we pulled up in the lanes for the ferry the key turned, the engine started then immediately stalled. I was able to get it going by applying some revs for a few seconds. It did this once more on the journey home but not every time I started it. Could this be that the start idle is set too low. Looked about 500rpm.
Was a good reminder to get the air conditioning fixed!
I have a had a look through RAVE and the owners handbook and can't find anything that shows where a headlamp deflector should go or if there is a switch or lever to be moved? Can anyone assist. (This time I am driving through the night so not bothering is not an option).
I know a number of these were used by the police in their day but at Oulton Park at Easter this was spotted. I wonder how many are put into semi official duties now?
https://www.flickr.com/gp/142452241@N06/UzqYMT
Not sure why it will not post the link correctly.
There has been some discussion on a meet up somewhere and on many different occasions and threads.
In June, well almost July there is the Billing Off Road Show, which is trying to break the world record for the number of land rovers in procession. As this is fairly central it should cater for most. Its too far for me to go for the day so I would bring the caravan and stay on site for the weekend.
https://www.thebillingoffroadexperience.co.uk/world-record-attempt/
Finally I think this is a good opportunity to register for this as a club. So who is actually up for going?
When I superlock the car generally after I have reversed into a space the drivers mirror needs to be adjusted again. It’s almost like it a European one stuck on. However the mirror tilts upwards?
Any ideas?
Ok so there is atleast one other person whom wants a Nanocomm
5% 5-9
10% 10-14
Doubt we will get any higher.
I will add names below as they show up on here..
Today I set about swapping out the twin 7 pin tow connectors for a single 13 pin one. Obtained the following from Screwfix with nice easy screw terminals and pin outs.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/maypole-mp129-13-pin-european-trailer-board-socket-w-gasket-12v/48923
I have connected up as follows... (Edited to correct mistakes)
As Follows,
13 Pin Number - Colour of LR Wiring Loom - Description of Control - LR wiring in car.
RH Light Cluster Wiring
Pin 1 - Yellow - LH Indicator - Green/Orange
Pin 2 - Blue - Rear Fog - Orange/Yellow
Pin 3 - White - Earth Return - Black
Pin 4 - Green - RH Indicator - Green/Yellow
Pin 5 - Brown - Right Tail Light and Number Plate - Red/Black
Pin 6 - Red - Brake Light - Green/Purple
Pin 7 - Black - Left Tail Lights and Number Plate - Red/White
LH Light Cluster Wiring.
Pin 8 - Yellow (Grey 7 Pin Cable) - Reverse - Green/Brown
PIn 9 - Green (Grey 7 Pin Cable) - Power Supply Steady - White/Orange
Pin 10 - Red (Grey 7 Pin Cable) - Power Supply Switched - Pink/Orange
Pin 11 - Black (Grey 7 Pin Cable) - Earth Return (Contact 10) - Black
PIn 12 - Blue (Grey 7 Pin Cable) - N/C - N/C
Pin 13 - White (Grey 7 Pin Cable) - Earth Return (Contact 9) - Black
Tested and almost all working ok. The reversing lights not working (Edit : Fixed). This turns out that none of the 7 pin connectors are working (Edit :Fixed). On inspection both cables go up the right hand wheel arch! The 7 Pin Aux one should go up the left hand wheel arch behind the CD changer. Both the cables were run and very close to the exhaust so thats not a good idea. I have now re-routed the grey aux cable to the left hand wheel arch and will wire in tomorrow. Annoyingly I cut the grey cable down by 15cm when I fitted it first off. Now its really short but will reach.
Does anyone have a correct wired system? I need to know the following connections in the car, there is a loom with a bare un-used connector with the following. Edit: Thanks Gilbertd
Left Hand rear wheel arch...
Orange/White - Ignition Switched Live
Pink/Orange - Permanent Live
Green/Brown - Reversing Lights
Black - Ground.
RH wheel arch
Green/Orange - Left Hand Indicator
Black - Earth Return
Red/Black - Right Tail Light and Number Plate
Orange/Yellow - Rear Fog
Green/Yellow - Right Hand Indicator
Red/White - Left Tail Light and Number Plate
Green/Purple - Break Light
I am guessing I am going to have to run a feed from the battery to the Red Switched connection if I want to run the fridge in the caravan when towing. (Edit - No you don't need to.)
OK, the saga continues.
When driving I get vibration at 45mph this is certainly not normal and goes away at 60mph. This is not really through the steering this is like the chassis is vibrating. I have changed the Transfer box and Viscous coupling today which has fixed the tyre scrub at low speeds but I still have the vibration.
I can't pin point when the vibration started on this car but as you can tell from the list below a lot has been changed.
November 2016 Collected car broke down with a bang on M25
1 New Front Diff Garage Replaced £400
December 2016 loud knocks/bangs from transmission, car feels like stuck in tram rails
2 New Union Joints Front
3 New Union Joints Rear
4 New Front Diff
5 New Rear Diff Fixed knocks and bangs from running gear, Teeth broken on main large cog. £500 odd including tooling.
Vibration felt at speed from around 45mph to 65mph, battery will not take charge
6 New Battery Fixed - £115
Vibration felt at speed and car still jumps around on the motorway likes its stuck in tram rails.
7 New Wheels and Tyres Fixed car jumping lanes on the motorway! £165
Rear Brakes making too much noise
9 New Rear Breaks and Pads Worn through pads, garages should have told me! £85
Car scrubs tyres when doing donuts in car parks :-) and have vibration at speed.
10 New Transfer Box and Viscous Coupling. Fixed car scrubbing tyres.
Update:
Car vibrates at around 45-60mph
11 Swapped around props, now part that slides inside the propshaft is by the gearbox, facing the centre of the car. Fixed vibrations.
OK so my money is on the alignment of the props, yes I didn't mark them before I took them off, I really should have. Do any of you think this could be the issue and as I didn't mark them is there any way to tell other then rotating 45deg each time until I have done all three other positions and road tested each time? Oh and i need to get a vibration damper back on the front diff. Surely it can't just be that!
Thanks again for you help chaps...
List of to do's...
Washer jet replacements
Full service
Blend Motors
OK, so my P38 has had the tracking out for some time. including before I got it, hence the front right tyre is bald on the inside. Tyres at £100 each got me thinking and I have landed a set of 19" Range Rover Sport 2013 wheels with new Dunlop Winter tyres for a whopping £165! I doesn't come with the spigots or nuts.
I presume that these would be right from eBay...
NOT THE ORIGINAL LINK
or these (BritPart probably no better)
NOT THE ORIGINAL LINK
Edit : Indeed these are the correct size however I went for metal ones instead. You Need 72.6 -70.1 Spigot Rings.
However I am not sure on nuts, I believe the openings for the nuts on the wheels on a RRS are smaller then the P38 so I need a full set of new nuts. The only thing I have found is this..
NOT THE ORIGINAL LINK.
Edit : As the inside edge of the wheel nut opening was flat I needed flat as opposed to chamfered edge nuts. These ones did the job, basically 22mm L322 nuts...
Is there anyone that can advise what I need. Once I have the wheels on I will get the tracking done and the car looked over.
But again not sure if the nuts will be right.
Photo of old and new,
It has solved the wondering problem and handles far better the ride is a little harder but not bad.
Finished...
My Saga continues, when repairing the car the battery went flat. Charged it overnight last night and put it back on the car and now the alarm beeps every time I open the car. It will not let me put the EKA code in, This is the only way I can start the car as the key remote doesn't work and I only have 1 key.
Any ideas?
I am guessing I will need a Nanocom to set to it to Passive Immobilisation.
This is a follow on the Broken Down Again topic.
Having changed a few items I am slowly getting the cause. Well eliminating!
When rolling/moving there is a dull thud that seems to come from around the drivers footwell. The faster you go the more frequent the noise. It is not intermittent and starts at less then 5mph.
I have now changed the front and rear propshaft union joints, and replaced the Front Diff.
Tomorrow I will jack up the rear of the car, (Front Propshaft is off) and run the car, hopefully I will not hear any noises. That would mean the fault is on the front axle so would guessing it will be the hubs.
Chris has also suggested to place the fuse in the top right position on the drivers seat fuse box, and roll the car down the hill, this ensures the car is in neutral.
Does anyone have any other ideas?
I am well aware that we can get the manuals online, but when outside using the phone or laptop is not really ideal. I was thinking of seeing if I can get a print run done of the P38 Manual, If it is just ring binder bound then if a page is damaged or covered in oil then a replacement could be printed without too much hassle.
The idea of my ink jet running a 1361 print run is not on my to do list. However online I have found if I can order 10 they could be supplied for under £50.
Would anyone be interested in this if I was to organise it? Would you prefer bound copies or as above.
OK so my P38 ownership is not going soo well.
Bought for £1,550 last month and front diff broke on the M25 on the way home. (insurance company are claiming not covered and sent a bill for £530 for recovery)
Replaced the front diff at a local garage for £400.
Book symbol on display and no heating as such. Ordered full replacement hoses and thermostat. (Still in boxes)
Full service kit purchase as dubious service interval on last occasion.
Remote Key fob stopped working now using the EKA to code to get in until can lay my hands on a nanocomm.
Finally on Thursday night broke down again. Recovered home and not sure I want to pay a garage again. When moving there is a loud knock I can fell it though the pedals/footwell, The faster I go the more frequent it gets, The more distance it goes the louder and at slower speeds it starts. I am suspecting rear diff. Would anyone suggest any different? Could it be a faulty front diff again? What else should i think of changing if this is the case.
Finally when going along it pulls to either side like its stuck in the tram tracks on the roads the trucks leave in the road. Not always but randomly when driving. Gives a very unsure driving form.
Should I fix it and sell it for spares?