I'm pretty sure that hose I got is single ply. I don't rember seeing any threads or layers to it.

It's really flexible and was nice and cheap.

I should have some spare kicking around somewhere. I bought enough to replace both pipes going to the throttle body heater but in the end Simon ended up doing the bypass for me when he did my LPG, so it didn't all get used.

Ah, it's hydrocarbons. My test doesn't say what it's measuring, just that the measurement is PPM.

It came in at 117PPM and I wasn't sure if that was right given that the limit is 1200! Seemed far too low to be a feasible reading.

Guess not.

CO also came in at 1.197% out of 3.500% max allowable.

Pretty chuffed - I wasn't even sure the LPG was working when they came to pick it up. The system was beeping at me when I turned it on.

Two advisories: one brake line was covered in grease/dirt so they couldn't properly assess its condition and there's a slight oil leak from the back of the engine.

As I've just replaced the head gaskets and the valley gasket I'm going to assume for now that those are fine.

Besides the rear crankshaft oil seal is there much else at the back there that would leak oil?

Surprised that it didn't get an advisory for split ball joint boots. I noticed them when I replaced my brakes earlier in the year and bought the parts. I mentioned it to them and said I've put the parts in the car in case it needs them. Nothing mentioned on the advisory list though.

How many PPM should a well running LPG system give for the emissions test at MOT?

Sloth wrote:

From ASH per chance?

The last time I bought it from them on eBay they sent me 3 ply as an 'upgrade' - but its useless... as oddly enough its 3 times as thick on the side wall and doesn't bend anywhere nearly as nice

Nope, I got this: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F401073216147

It's really flexible

Lpgc wrote:

I know of a couple of Nissan Elgrand engines that ate little steel screws that hold plenum flaps in place (flaps that alter airflow route in plenum, short route for high rpm, longer route for low rpm torque).. Six flaps on the V6 engine one for each cylinder (port runner in plenum), each flap is like a little throttle butterfly but performs the different function. One engine was destroyed, another ate the screws but seemed unaffected - I found the loose butterfly, it must have somehow gone against airflow direction and uphill in the plenum to come to rest on top of another butterfly for a different cylinder. Owner had me removed them all to prevent the same happening again, couldn't tell any difference driving the car afterwards but it'd probably be a couple of ft/lbs down on torque at low rpm. The flaps would be too wide to make it as far as the valves but the screws...

Sorry to bring other marques into discussion again, almost on topic though!

My ST170 had variable length intake runners too. You could really tell the difference when the control mechanism for it died and stopped working. It lost almost all of its low down torque.

It worked differently on that though, from what I can tell. IIRC it had some kind of rotating mechanism controlled by a box of electronics (the IMRC) rather than butterfly valves. When the engine exceeded a certain RPM the IMRC moved the bit in the intake manifold that lengthened the runners.

Yeah, it is a bit different. Mine didn't need the EKA when I put the battery back on.

I guess that as it accepted the EKA that means the door latch is fine.

I think I have unlocked the car with key after locking with the fob before and not needed the EKA though. Not sure if that needing the EKA in that scenario is normal.

Mine a 2001 4.6 Vogue too - if the spec/year matters.

My battery was left unplugged for a few weeks while I did some work. When I connected it back up the fob didn't work. I was able to start the car etc but remote locking didn't work.

I'd left the car unlocked while the battery was off so it didn't need unlocking when I reconnected it.

The fob worked again after I locked and unlocked the car using the key in the door. I didn't have to press any buttons.

I wonder if your problem is a symptom of a dodgy microswitch in the door latch?

Lpgc wrote:

One of the few driving conditions I'd prefer an oldskool diesel with mechanical injection pump for.

Reminds me of one holiday on 'Shell Island / Mochras' in Wales as a kid, it's a peninsula and the only link road to mainland is a tidal causeway... I canoed over abandoned cars with headlights still lit on that causeway

Used to camp there every year with uni friends, was great fun watching people ignore the warnings about what times they can arrive and drive in, think they can drive through the water then get stuck.

Some would just stop in the water, some would drive off the edge of the road and suddenly find themselves in even deeper water and others would drive in to the rocks that marked the edge of the road when the tide was out.

Some people are really dumb.

I just got mine from eBay

Cheers for that, I'll have to measure up the T piece and see if they have one to suit :)

Might as well get the dimpled hestshield material there too, rather than paying through the nose for a factory shield!

Ok, so the leak is from the T piece itself - the plastic is old and soft and the bit going to the thermostat simply snapped off as I tried to undo it!

Now buying a new top hose - does anyone know if anyone makes a metal T piece for this?

Fired it up today and there's no trace of a miss fire whatsoever. Which I guess is good?

It has sprung a leak from the top hose though, right where the pipe that goes to the engine joins the plastic T piece. I'll try replacing the spring clip with a jubilee clip and see if that helps.

Once that's done I just need to sort the LPG....it's beeping at me every few seconds

As time goes on I'm getting a bit frustrated with my Android head unit.

It's slow and unresponsive and typing anything in (like an address to navigate to) gets annoying.

It's then quite slow to actually lock on to my location and start the journey. I'm often two or three turns in to my journey before it realises what's happening.

If I were to do it again I'd go for an aftermarket head unit that does Android Auto and/or Apple Carplay.

I've had water up above the wheel tops and been OK in terms of coil pack and water ingress - did worry about the intake though, with the wheels churning the water up a bit higher than the tops of the wheels.

The coils are a bit higher than the wheel tops and don't have that churning issue.

I'd happily fit a snorkel and be comfortable doing it again.

You do have to be sure you have good door seals to protect the BECM though!

Edit: just remembered that guy is in Australia - he might not even use it to go through water. They often use snorkels to get the air intake out of the low level dust thrown up by the wheels out there.

It's now in the post anyway, I can't keep it forever :)

Gilbertd wrote:

It's definitely outwards, it's much louder underneath the car and no different with the oil filler off. I was expecting to be able to see flames blowing out of the gap and was a bit disappointed when I couldn't. That would have told me which pot it was too but using the infra red thermometer on the manifold was a pretty good clue and pulling the HT lead definitely confirmed it. There's no immediate rush for it but I'll probably make a start on it Sunday and then do a bit in the evenings. Got to order a gasket set anyway and I suspect the head is going to need skimming too. It'll be interesting to get it apart as the engine was rebuilt 3 or 4 years ago. It's already got a stud kit fitted and when he bought it he was told it has a Kent cam and stage 2 heads. It's certainly quick, even running on 7 and a half.

You're going to want that 12 point socket back then! I better get it in the post to you.

Yeah, he's just given me this stuff as a last resort in case it's not something really simple.

His kit is a 1999 Thor and mine is a 2001 Thor. His manifold is the bunch of bananas as well.

In my car the throttle body connector and the connector for the piece below the idle valve are on their own spur that comes out of the loom near the connector for the idle valve:

On the loom I've borrowed they go through loom with the injectors:

Are there any other differences that would stop me being able to make use of this other loom if I need it?

Were there different engine wiring looms for different model years/spec levels etc?

A guy from my Land Rover club has given me a full upper and lower Thor intake manifold assembly including fuel rail, injectors and engine loom for me to swap bits out with if I rule out the simple stuff. Some of the connections seem to be in different places though.

Removing the AC pump is nice and easy.

Take off the top of the fan shroud and the plastic belt cover then use a 15mm spanner to release the belt tensioner. I use a 15mm spanner with a socket attached to a 1/2 inch extension bar over the end to make it really easy to lever.

Then it's just the bolts in the top of the AC compressor. The rear right bolt can be tricky as it's really close to the throttle cables. I used a 1/4 inch 10mm socket on an extension to get at that one - it fits down between the throttle cable and the cruise control cable. You'll find that once it's undone you can't remove that bolt but it will come out by lifting the compressor once they're all undone.

The lines are long and fairly flexible so you can move it right out of the way.