Sorry, I've not come across the term throttle pot before - do you mean starting it up with electrical connector on the side of the throttle body (throttle position sensor?) disconnected?
If so, then I'm not sure.
I know I reconnected the battery briefly so I could open the boot while the engine was in pieces but I don't remember if I turned the ignition on. I can't think what reason I'd have had to switch the ignition on with the heads removed but it's possible that I did during the later stages of reassembly.
It did spend a few weeks with the battery completely disconnected. If that cleared the adaptives as Sloth suggested, (mine is a Thor) might it just be a case of the ECU needing a bit of time to figure things out?
Are the "adaptives" the same as the idle voltage Gordon mentioned?
Would the adaptives have any affect on MPG? Struggling to get above 13mpg at 50-60mph, definitely lower than it used to be.
Since replacing my head gaskets I've had an issue with misfiring (causing a heatshield fire), revs sticking and a high idle.
The misfire cleared itself up - I never found what was causing it as when I came back to the car to take a look it was running fine.
The sticking revs was really bad straight after the rebuild. Initially they would stick/hold at whatever RPM I revved up to, occasionally continuing to rise slowly on their own. I'd have to turn the engine off to correct this.
After a little while the engine would rev up and the revs would drop on their own - only to get stuck at around 2K RPM. Again, the only way I found to stop this was to turn the engine off. Sometimes the RPM would drop quickly from whatever I revved up to down to 2K where it would "snag" and then drop more slowly.
When I was finally able to drive it I found that it was holding revs well enough on it's own to chug along at 30mph without needing the accelerator pedal. Not slowing down on it's own and not speeding up. Using the brakes would slow the car down and the engine revs seemed fine once I came to a stop.
Now, after having it on the road for a few days the rev holding seems to have settled down and it's not sticking at any RPM but I have noticed that my idle RPM seems high. It seems to vary between 1,100RPM and 800RPM. It's not bouncing between these values, it's just sitting smoothly at different points in this range at any given time I look at it. It never gets as low as the 660RPM that RAVE says it should be.
I've had a brief chat with Sloth about it as the symptoms seemed to match an old thread of his that I found online. He said he fixed his by moving the throttle cable routing. My cable seems to be routed well and as far as I can see the cable is moving freely. The throttle body seems to be closing fully when the throttle pedal is released - the cables are returning to rest against the stop properly. I tried to check the throttle body by removing the intake pipe with the engine running but the engine immediately died. I guess the sudden change in airflow was just too much for it cope with. I think my symptoms are now a bit different to his.
Given that I lack a Nanocom to investigate with, can anyone suggest things for me to try to diagnose this issue?
I've seen a few threads online (mostly Disco 2 related, in America) saying that they've reset the adaptive values and that's sorted high idle issues. Is this only possible with a Nanocom?
It might not go anywhere but I was just curious about it. Figured I'd take a stab at it simply as I have the old pump and I don't need to return it for a surcharge anywhere.
Anyone know how the pumps are assembled/disassembled?
Wondering what mine looks like inside and if it can be rebuilt cheaply as a spare. The bearings and impeller look and feel absolutely fine so hopefully it's just a seal that needs replacing.
At a guess the wheel the pulley bolts to is pressed or threaded on to the shaft which holds everything else in?
Ah, sorry. I'm currently on mobile and not seeing any signatures.
Is yours diesel? Glow plugs could be on their way out.
RutlandRover wrote:
Then I bolted a piece of steel to the pulley and used a viscous fan spanner. Both of these had extensions on the end for more leverage. I then had a helper and the two of us pushed in opposite directions. The viscous fan spanner cut through the nut without undoing it.
This how the set up looked, you can imaging how much force/torque this was applying with two grown men pushing on levers this long!
I put it back on dry in the end. I looked at the threads and there was no evidence of corrosion or anything binding it up - it was just bloody tight.
Trying to undo it using the tension of the belt just resulted in turning the engine over. The belt didn't seem to be slipping.
Would that suggest that the engine lacks compression to allow it to crank over before the fan nut gave way?
I guess it's ok to put a little anti-sieze on the fan thread? It shouldn't come loose as it's designed to be tightened as the fan runs.
I couldn't undo it with the belt on.
I tried just hitting it with a hammer while the belt was on but that did nothing.
Then I bolted a piece of steel to the pulley and used a viscous fan spanner. Both of these had extensions on the end for more leverage. I then had a helper and the two of us pushed in opposite directions. The viscous fan spanner cut through the nut without undoing it.
I had two fan spanners to double up but I couldn't fit them in with the steel bolted to the front of the pulley.
So then I took off the alternator, AC pump, PS pump and the pump bracket. With these off I could fit a longer bolt in the back of the pulley, slide a ratchet extension in from the top that was braced against the alternator bracket and spin the pulley so the bolt rested against that.
I could then fit my doubled up spanner on the nut to spread the load and really whack it with the hammer.
Took several thumps but it eventually went.
The pulley on the PS pump bracket had to come off to allow the bracket to come off.
The other pulley had to come off when I was removing the water pump. It was covering one of the bolts and I couldn't get a socket on it.
Anyone able to tell me which idler pulley goes where?
Had trouble getting the fan off (as I expected) and ended up taking off the alternator, AC pump, PS pump and idler pulleys for access.
I can't remember which idler goes where though!
There's a small one and a larger one - any suggestions?
I've sent an email off to the US contact email address for Airtex water pumps to see what they think of Island's practice and the condition of the pump.
I'm not going to use a sealant on the pump as that's specifically stated as something that WILL void the warranty on it (it came with a little booklet detailing the 3 year warranty).
I'm confused about the BMW factory with K series heads though. Why would a BMW motorcycle factory have had Rover car engine heads in the late 80's?
Wouldn't that have been a LONG time before BMW had anything to do with Rover?
That was the American website I found and was going to be my fallback if I failed to find any UK contact.
These are the photos I sent to Island, am I making too much of the "damage"?
I'm not too bothered about the knocks at the end of the pump and around the bolt hole - they're nowhere near any water but the chunk missing in image 5 does bother me a little.
Heard back from Island this morning.
I requested an exchange in a sealed box and they've said no and offered a refund.
They said they open ALL Airtex boxes to check the condition of the gasket to ensure it's not damaged in the box and they checked several other Airtex pumps and they all have chips and marks like the one I have. In their opinion the marks are fine and won't contribute to early failure of the gasket.
Kind of makes a mockery of the security seal applied by the manufacturer IMO.
I think I'm just going to have to go ahead and fit it - I need it for the weekend and don't have time to get another shipped to me by then. At least I now have it recorded with them that it arrived unsealed and chipped etc and they've acknowledged this and said it's fine. Hopefully it won't fail on me but if it does the warranty shouldn't be invalidated by the marks and they can't claim it's not an Airtex pump etc.
It does mean that I'm not ordering anything from Island 4x4 in the future and I'll keep looking for Airtex contact details to let them know that they're breaking the manufacturers security seal before shipping the items out.
The fan came off about 3 years ago (I think) - plenty of time for it to have become stuck again I guess!
New water pump arrived today but I'm not happy with it.
Island 4x4 have sent me an Airtex box with a cut security seal - so the box has been opened before being sent to me. There are no identifying marks on the pump to tell me its an Airtex unit and there are multiple nicks and scrapes in the mating face - including few small chunks missing from the edge of the water channel/mating face.
This could potentially be a different brand of pump (Britpart.....-shudder-) in an Airtex box but either way I'm unhappy with the condition of the item I've been sent and worry about the effect the marks/missing chunks would have on the longevity of the gasket.
I've emailed Island asking for a new pump in a seal box to be sent out but I don't hold out much hope!
I've tried to find some contact details for Airtex but they don't seem to have a UK contact/distributor.
I've found official Airtex websites for Spain and USA - anyone know which would be the better one to contact if I have trouble with Island?
Aragorn wrote:
Fair enough. His website just suggests hes not doing them any more as hes run out of parts and people arent returning the old bits etc:
Ah crap...I've contributed to this :(
I've STILL got my old latch in the boot of car. I just never got round to actually sending it back - despite saying I would a couple of times.
I really will send it back ASAP...I will....I promise...
Yes, although I remember having a difficult time getting it off. Hitting it with a hammer didn't do it so I struggled and removed the water pump pulley with the fan in place. I hoped that the fan was attached to that but it wasn't.
In the end I borrowed a huge chain wrench from a guy at work, wrapped it around the pump pulley and braced it against the chassis so I could undo the fan.
Hopefully it comes off more easily this time!
Ordered the Airtex from Island 4x4 - the picture showed a gasket so I assume it comes with one. Ordered new bolts for the water pump too, just in case.
Just had nose through RAVE and it seems to suggest that the pump can replaced without removing the fan:
There's no fan shown in the images but it doesn't say to remove it (or refit at the end). If you check the the procedure for the earlier cars it says to remove the fan.
I assume that fan DOES need to come off and it's just missing from the instructions?
I didn't think to measure the pipe glued to the heatshield - anyone know the external diameter?
Hopefully I can join them back together with an airline connector. I don't much fancy the idea of trying to replace the whole pipe down the back of the engine!
As for water pumps, is the Airtex one about the best without losing your mind and paying for a genuine LR one?
Some progress I think. I'm pretty sure I now have a leaking waterpump!
I think the radiator is fine. When I had it running the coolant hoses weren't being pressurised. I think water is leaking from the pump and on to the fan somehow and then dripping in to the bottom of the fan shroud and leaking out from there.
This is it after drying off the area and pressurising the system with my DIY cap:
I'm now happy that all the work I did previously was done OK - there's no evidence of coolant from anywhere above the water pump (valley gasket, throttle body heater bypass pipe etc). There's also no route that I can see that would let coolant reach this spot from the head gaskets.
This is a video of it seeping very slowly with no pressure in the system:
This is what the engine bay looks like with it running in this state:
It's hard to tell from the video but it's billowing out from under the rocker cover.
I'm now wondering if the "steam" coming from the exhaust area is actually SMOKE. Specifically, smoke from this:
I've clearly gotten something wrong at the back of the engine bay there. That hard plastic tube has slipped to rest on the heatshield, melted through and is now two separate pieces of pipe. Each of them is now glued to the heatshield :(
However, I'm not sure how the smoke from this (if it is smoking) would get from there to billowing out towards the front of the engine.
Anyone able to tell me what they are? My first thought was gearbox/transfer case breather pipes. They look similar to the breather pipes for the fog lights at the front of the engine bay. I'm not sure though.