His other post I found in another thread under a different username on rr.net along with this one. This one the actual OP had already worked out - his radiator had not been cleaned out...
I deleted the other thread because it was babbling on about some aftermarket warranty service.
I didn't delete it earlier for general amusement/wondering if others were able to actually ban the trolls.
Yeah this is BS. It has been copied... and then used as spam.
Who has the authoritah to deploy the ban hammer? Can I do that? hmmm. Not that I can see.
This post looks legit... except for the clearly spammy link in both this and your other post...
What gives?
I think most owners have probably come to this solution at one point or another, either on this line or the radiator breather :)
It's 8mm hose. If you can get it (ie, if the useless tossers at Auto Silicone Hoses actually have it in stock and don't randomly send you something else), the single ply 8mm hose they sell is perfect for this and the radiator breather line.
The fact he's mentioned vanos sounds like it is indeed a 4.4, as the doovla suggests... perhaps a case of thinking more badges etc sounds better, or just doesn't know any better?
The second one... I quite like that green SE interior...
Mark will probably be bartering with the seller for that Vogue SE badge before you know it ;)
Massive diesel generators.
Oh wait...
I have no idea what the arrangements are for that thing... not my problem.... but I guess as he technically pays the eleccy bill, it probably doesn't make much of a dent :)
They are kinda cool, though.... certainly given the electric car thing a much needed practical, if not expensive option.
Remains to be seen though how the batteries fair long term, and what happens when they need replacing etc. Interestingly, he may not be replacing it for a newer one, but going back to something 'normal'.
Seems fairly silly to assume you could plug your car in at work and charge it without checking first... they do suck down a lot of power. Bearing in mind plugging into a 13amp socket is the slowest way to charge, that could be drawing 3kw constantly, which is like having your kettle boiling constantly.
Our MD has a Tesla, naturally. We fitted a proper charging point for it - its 32amps, 3 phase. Now the car doesn't max that out, and it depends on the vehicle and number of battery chargers it has fitted as to how much it actually it will draw when given plenty of power to play with. But it goes to show, charging points are not simple things to just put anywhere, getting enough power to them can be quite problematic.
Our unit is on an industrial estate and we have 400amp/three phase to play with. We use a considerable amount of that already, so if we wanted to go fitting even a small number of charging points, it would take a bit of planning. And as Dave said... I know my employer wouldn't be coughing up to pay the bill to fill up employee's cars, so we'd need some pay as you go type metering...
Someone put it out of its misery.
'Key has lost programming' could mean anything, but its probably something along the usual lines of being locked out, perhaps broken key if only one present, BECM maybe in an alarmed state. Might be as simple as needs the EKA entering and all is well.
Aragorn wrote:
i used 6mm fuel hose when i did mine. Never keen on long runs of largish bore silicone where vacuum is involved. It tends to go a bit soft and squidey and sucks flat.
I've not had any issues with it - though it isn't the cheapy thin wall stuff. I can imagine that might not put up much fight.
Is it a common thing on the early ones? My first P38 was a 96, and it had the same thing around the instruments, and above the outer vents.
Not seen it on a later one though.
It's definitely worth replacing the whole line. Mine was split where it went through the firewall. Replaced sections on either end and it just kept splitting at the joints.
5-6mm silicone hose is much easier to work with, and should in theory last a lot longer...
Sorry should have added - if the amp is dead, the midrange and tweeter also won't make any sound either. I'm assuming its died entirely. I have had a seized woofer too - I think on my first P38, which also had a dead amp in that door.
I wouldn't change the speaker(s) for aftermarket units personally on the door amp setup - I tried a couple of different woofers, and none worked as well with the door amp as the OEM woofer.
The door amps do fail, between my first two P38s I've replaced 2-3 of them. Generally cheap on eBay though and plentiful.
Nice :)
To be fair to the old P38 V8, for its size it was never exactly a powerhouse. The 3.6 TDV8 is 260-270hp I think? And a lot more torque.
Can sound quite nice with straight pipes too... just saying.
Marty has a Faultmate MSV-2 with the BECM module to fix very unhappy BECMs - that's something beyond the Nanocom or any other diagnostic device. It isn't a plug and play device either, requiring some internal tinkering to get at the logic board.
The Nanocom will as others have said let you enter the EKA (assuming its not an early BECM) directly, and change various settings in the BECM, but if it gets into an alarmed state where it won't even accept the EKA by any means, it'll need a visit to Marty's workbench.
I also had the Lynx - for all of one day before returning it.
Depends. How long is this race, and is refuelling allowed? :P
A V8 with LPG might just have a longer range if both tanks are brimmed... but I'd also like to be able to afford certain luxuries, like food!
Good point.