I'm in Southampton now, but given I've spent 4 years driving between the two popping down wouldn't have been an issue! Also have a spare compressor sat here/
I've looked into thermostat figures quite a bit, and have decided that frankly, they're bollocks!
As you say OB, RAVE lists two values based on year, but being +/- 5 degrees, making it anyone's guess as to what its actually starting to open / fully open at...
And there is only one part number available, which is presumably the later vague option, at this point.
Our red P38 has a genuine stat on it now and a new Nissens radiator after rebuilding it, and the rad doesn't start getting properly hot until 93+ celcius is indicated on the nanocom. That's with the fan removed too as a fair test with mine.
Mine has a cheap thermostat on it and the electric fan. The bottom of my rad is always hot, because its opening much earlier than the genuine stat, (and I don't have a constant source of airflow while stationary) - I'd say around 82-87. Which, interestingly, if you search for the proper part number and come across the cheap copies, is what they actually state as the opening temp.
So... vagueness all round. I prefer mine running slightly cooler via the coolant thermostat, as my fan thermostat lets things get up to 95 indicated before cooling off to 90-91. Underway, the fan doesn't come on unless crawling or around town. If I have a bit of a long downhill descent, the temperature does drop a bit until the stat closes back up fully.
Yeah I wasn't sure either when I first did it, till Marty explained how the cretinous thing actually worked. The second locking sound had me confused.
The other thing is, if you cut the other wire, you'll also stop the normal motor working, as its shared between the two.
Just cut the one - the superlocking pawl can't move in either direction then because it reverses polarity to engage/disengage. You'll still hear the main motor run for a second time after the 'settle' period, but as the pawl has been neutered, its just like pressing lock again.
I was JUST trying to post that :)
The on/off button is a soft momentary switch, and the output to the DSP amp to turn it on will just be a trigger. That crispyness just looks like flux residue more than temperature related marking.
Yes, the studs thread into the manifolds.
I'd suggest the usual soaking in plusgas etc before attempting to undo them. Hopefully they will just unthread and the whole lot will come out of the manifold for shiny new ones to thread in.
Quite often they will unthread from the downpipes on the manifold - best thing to do is buy some new studs and M10 nuts just in case. Of the two exhaust removal/replacements I've done, the first needed a couple of studs, the second required all six to be replaced.
They may also break off, which becomes a pain in the arse.
I put brand new blend motors in mine and they still go over 100% - I put it down to the general inaccuracy of the pots.
Without moderate airflow I can't see the aspirator temperature increasing. The fan speed increasing from a cold heater core/cold interior should be determined by the heater core warming up. I suppose it might back the blend motors off regardless a 15 degrees isn't that far off 21, giving a more gradual temperature rise once it actually has a usable source of heat.
Thinking about it... the blowers don't exactly get too lively in mine on a 15 degree day if I have it set to 21-22. I have a 2001 HEVAC in mine. I do also have a 96 one I could swap in to see if it behaves differently.
Is it me or is that just confusing?
If you set the air to come from the footwell vents, is it warm then?
Morat wrote:
Oh, and does anyone have any idea how I can sort out some captive nuts for the rear dog guard mounts Marty gave me? I'm a bit stumped, as I can't imagine that welding them on would do the paint on the roof any good!
edit: is this the sort of thing?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sz2yZNqGNqo
Yes - rivnuts or nutserts are what you need. Bastard things :)
Gilbertd wrote:
You could either go for creative plumbing or a bit of TIG welding. The only difference between a GEMS and Thor rad is the position of the top hose spout. When I first got mine it had a Thor rad in it and a top hose that ran over the top of the fan shroud to the opposite side of the rad. If you look at the second picture, you can see where whoever did it had heated and moulded a smooth edge on the shroud so it didn't cut into the hose.
I may as well go the plumbing route as I have no stock fan shroud or massive viscous fan in the way. Plus, I can remove the high point in the Thor top hose completely if I did.
Next year sometime... might have to get a standard one if the weep becomes a leak, bigger, house-sized things have appeared above it on the list.
Lest we not forget the sight of Marty's engine bay ;) sorry mate!
That radiator looks very interesting. As I have no viscous fan on my Thor, I'd been considering one of them too. My radiator is weeping from a corner... I reckon with a bit of creative plumbing and adaptation of the top house spout, I'd be able to fit one of them in.
Morat wrote:
Potato!!
or in my case - TWO Potatos! :)
And maybe a blowing exhaust afterwards :(
Haha! Sorry :)
Yeah get one from Marty - don't waste time with breakers selling 'tested' parts for things like door latches - more often than not they are not tested at all. They just strip vehicles and sell parts with a 30 day warranty hoping for the best.
Realistically a breaker doesn't have the time (or inclination...) to test every specific feature and operation on every part of a vehicle they break, if they even know how. And P38 door latches aren't exactly known for they're stellar reliability.
The best one I had was a 'tested, working' diesel heater from a BMW X5. When it turned up, the coolant passages were totally full of oily sludge - the engine had clearly suffered some catastrophic head gasket or oil cooler failure... on top of which, its not possible to 'test' this diesel heater without proper diagnostics. Unsurprisingly it was locked out with fault codes.
Thanks OB :)
I have acquired a nudge bar, although it is in need of some repair. The upper mountings of the side wings are badly rusted, which has started the adjacent bits of the A frame rusting too. So I need to try and slow down/stop that and then find some way of repairing the foam on the back (thinking pourable PU rubber or foam maybe?).
I'll take some pictures of it later, its currently in bits in my crappy garage while I await supplies.
I wasn't sure how the light bar/bracket fitted, but now I see how it works. Can't have a nudge bar without lights.... it just looks like its missing something.
Superlocking is just a waste of time, and services little purpose other than to frustrate the owner when it inevitably does lock you out of one or more doors...
I activate 'superlocking' everytime I lock up, but as OB has done, I've now neutered the superlocking in every door. Prior to doing so I've already had one door try to shut me out - thankfully locking/unlocking several times released it, and out came the wire cutters. I just want the volumetric sensors working, like they should do by default. But that's another one of LR's great moments of wisdom.
If you're not able to get the EKA entered in the morning, let me know and I'll see if I can pop down in the evening.
That will only work when the EKA has been disabled, as it was on the car Gilbert was working on. All that does is emulate the key and CDL position switches, nothing more. On a vehicle/BECM expecting the EKA input, you would need to emulate those switches by grounding the wires in the correct order according to your EKA code.
I did exactly that for weeks every time I wanted to start my old P38 with a broken door latch, before getting a replacement.