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I can't help as I've never looked, but that does look a lot tidier and simpler than the V8 cooling system!

I'll get a recording tonight, with and without belt.

I can only think the drain bung must have been damaged - either far too tight or cracked, and the pressure made it pop.

Whatever the case, it'll be a shame if the engine has taken some damage internally, as it ran superbly - far smoother than mine, and with a lot more poke off the line. But it'll be fixed.

It seems my P38 has been volunteered into their next caravan holiday if its not a belt/ancillary making the noise.

I wasn't in the car when it happened sadly, but if you imagine where the radiator drain is on the bottom - that's where it all would have shot out from, straight down and under the car. One of those things... however it came out, it wasn't noticed until it was too late.

I'll get a recording of the noise its making tomorrow night. Must remember to take a spanner with me to pop the belt off to rule out a belt/ancillary noise, but I think I'll be very lucky if that's it. My dad is half deaf, so for him to describe the noise it was making when it was overheating as loud, it must have been fairly horrendous.

Good point! That I don't know... there was no sign of anything we could see on the road or in the parking spot where it was previously parked up, but having been sat in the car park I found it in, there was a drip directly under the drain plug.

Unless it lost it before the previous stop... which is a little worrying, if it were driven for another 2 miles or so with no cooling.

Water pump is okay, getting heat inside the car and through the bleed pipe, bypass pipe to thermostat and lpg vapouriser.

I'm not sure why the cap didn't relieve pressure. I'm only going with the theory the radiator drain was overly tight and weakened - perhaps the cap pressure relief is stuck. I've ordered a new genuine stat and bearmach cap to go on next. And a proper radiator bung :)

I'd love for it to be an ancillary making the noise, but it really sounds further back. I'll run it briefly with the belt off sometime and see if it does the same.

Sad time. Had a phone call from my dad today (while in the back of my P38, fixing various issues, naturally...), and our red P38 had decided to get rather toasty, having lost all of its coolant rather rapidly.

Find it in a car park, and the drain bung on the radiator looks as if it had sheared off. Interestingly having retraced the 2 miles route from the last place it was parked up, we found no trace of a trail or puddle of coolant, leaving me to believe it was very hot when the bung let go, and left as steam. Anyway - popped into the Range and found a 1/2" BSP bung that did the job with some PTFE tape, and filled it up with water. Transpires the thermostat is stuck... coolant up to 96c and the radiator is cold from below the top tank to the bottom. I figure, the stat didn't open, temperature and pressure went up, and an overly tight drain plug let go first. Gave up and towed it home (flat towing a P38... that's a noticeable lump being dragged behind!)

Good news is, no bubbling in the expansion tank while letting it idle, no steam out the back, and no odd exhaust like noises from around the engine. The bad news is however, while it was running and way too hot, the first thing my dad noticed was it was making a loud clonking/knocking noise, and then he noticed it was hot... not sure if it was down on power or not.

The bad news now, is at any increase in engine speed, there is a strange squeal/squeak noise from the engine that is not coming from the belt, and I'm not sure what it is... I need to record it, but would anyone have any ideas what it might be? It certainly wasn't there a week ago when I last drove it.

The cable drives the throttle butterfly shaft. This shaft drives the TPS sensor. Adjusting the cable, either making it slacker or tighter, is not going to have any influence on the TPS's relation to the position of the butterfly. Just because its in RAVE doesn't necessarily make it correct - I'd be inclined to believe its a copy and paste from previous designs that wasn't noticed on review.

Hell, you could remove the cable entirely and sit on top of the engine, and control the throttle by hand - the engine and gearbox would be none the wiser.

Steering might be an issue, but that's another problem.

Yes, but why? There is no potentiometer on the pedal itself to match up to, or anything between it and the throttle body... and the cable just pulls the butterfly shaft which directly operates the TPS on the other side. So I can't see how its critical at all.

Unless it was something accidentally left in from the Classic/whatever else actually had a kickdown cable perhaps, that might need some more careful attention.

If I remember correctly, RAVE only mentions the accelerator cable adjustment for GEMS, not for Thor.

That said, I can't see how it makes any difference on either - given the TPS is driven on the same shaft as the throttle butterfly, which is driven by the cable. With no kickdown cable, I can't see how it would make any difference on either management system...

Thoughts?

With great difficulty, and a decent amount of wishing to inflict pain on the designers.

And there is always at least one that you've missed.

In seriousness, they are fiddly, and remember to take the torque converter bolts out and try to slide the converter itself back into the bell housing, it shouldn't come out with the engine.

I might have some pictures somewhere of the thing Gordon is talking about - but that is probably the problem! My first one had the same issue.

Speaking of blocking the bleed line up - I noticed a few days ago, my bleed line was no longer getting hot. Found a suitably sized drill bit, and by hand gave it a few turns until coolant started coming past the bit. Pulled the bit out and a lump of what looks like hylomar blue came out with it...

Very easy to block that port up!

That seat looks awesome, I wish the steamer could fix holes in leather too, I'd be sorted! :)

Coming along nicely!

On the red one - my parents. I've already done most of those things and more on mine :)

Ah yes, I remember those. When I did my green one and silver one, I took the whole lot off including the pollen filter carriers and ran a bead of sealant everywhere, and then sealed the screws. I think on the silver one I even put a bit on the filter covers, because the foams were practically non-existent.

I generally won't give up with something until I've done it... thankfully the others involved seem about the same! Otherwise it would have been rolled out of the unit and I guess round two would be tonight.

Now though I'm more inclined to get on with some of this little list that needs doing:

door latches
remote locking
ignition barrel
head unit
radiator bleed hose
lpg gas hoses
interior lighting led change
sort dash switch lamps
heater box....
heater core
plenum/pollen filter reseal
dry out foam under carpet
shampoo carpet
good clean of dash etc
fit front fogs

and then aesthetics... wing has a dent, front and rear bumpers need respraying, headlining...

More of a tale for your amusement, as the offending blighter of a sensor has now been evicted from its exhaust bung, and reduced to many small pieces...

My parent's P38 has had a bit of a bad time lately - tried setting fire to itself twice, once with fuel, then with a locked up caliper. New petrol line, entire ignition system, new front-rear brake lines, flexis, rear calipers, disks, pads... and then the bastard still refused to run right. Lean on bank 1 permanently. Lambda sensor looked like the culprit - refused to shift from 0v despite firing on all cylinders.

So... a new sensor it is. Pop the old one out, pop new one in, job done. Or not. With myself under the car pushing with my foot against the spanner, all I managed to do was round off the nut on the sensor. With a bottle jack forcing the spanner upwards, the car was lifting before the bottle jack eventually gave up, and I rounded another side off...

Friend of a friend offered to help - I think this car may no longer be welcome there! Even cherry red with grips, it still wouldn't shift. So, cross member off, exhaust studs all removed, and the centre box clamping plates cut through. On the bench, even more heat and a 2ft bar welded to the remains of the sensor - nope. Eventually, after the welds on the bar broke twice, it started to move with some persuasion from a set of stilsons.

enter image description here

Before it came out though... I noticed something:

enter image description here

I sent that photo to Marty while the sensor was still being massaged, and he said something about gaskets, and I realised... there was never any gasket on this side -_- I guess, had the sensor actually come out without a fight on the car, who knows how long it would have taken to find the exhaust leak, that was likely the problem all along...

But hey. Managed to find a nut that the new sensor threaded onto nicely, which was then welded on top of the old bung. New exhaust studs, a pair of new gaskets (ho hum, totally haven't been here before, prepared for this sort of crap these days), some nice work on the centre box clamps, and one adaptive reset later, it runs properly!

I have a solution to the sunroof sagging.

When the headlining is out... remove the pesky blind! I have on my last four cars, which have for one reason or another, all needed the head lining coming down. I hate it being closed and never do - so didn't need or want it!

Yes, but fitting a Grom takes about 30 seconds to plug it in, and about 10 minutes of playing around getting it paired.

Plug it in! :)

Do it nowww.

Hello :)

I used to live in Bournemouth till recently - now I'm just to the west of Southampton, so potentially not too far from you!

Nick