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I used this on mine - 150cm wide, 3m length, and comes with 3 tins of adhesive. I didn't use all three cans and now need to put a bit more on one area at the back of mine, so more is definitely better when it comes to the glue!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUEDETRIM-Van-lining-Headlining-material-Easy-to-fit-Foam-Backed-Faux-Suede-/171990605620?var=&hash=item280b705f34Ⓜ️mFxPq9oL04jEFYm88LeN_zw

Tried to get rid of some interior plastics at my tip a while back... literally just bits of plastic, exactly the same kind of plastics you find in household items... They said I'd have to take it to a dismantler too!

So took it all home, smashed it all up, and in the wheelie bin it went...

Orangebean wrote:

Don't forget to bring antiseptic wipes, plasters and your leg shaving kit Sloth :)

I'll shave in preparation, don't you worry!

I'm up for it :) I don't think I have anything that needs doing (now, anyway), so happy to mull around and help!

3/16th is the one with M10 fittings as Marty says, 25' roll will do at least for the twin exhaust setup - do you have the twin or single setup?

Wait, is that not how you do 'it'? Crap! explains a lot...

It's to try and let heal what I end up doing to the side of my thumb that you can see - bad habit. They don't fit my thumbs though, need large ones... fnar.

I think they're talking about the L322 or BMW E39 with DSP setup, which is all done in the boot.

That 10 pin connector is the standard method of connecting the Alpine CD changer in a P38, so far as I am aware. Mine has it. It does look similar to the connector used at the head unit end of Alpine systems in E39s and I presume therefore the (at least early, before going coax and then fibre) L322s.

At the head unit end though, you'll find the usual blue square connector with three rows of pins that the GROM can be plugged into.

This is the CD changer connector on my P38. I have removed said changer and changed the trim panel for a non changer/sub one hence connector now flapping around.

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There should be more to that connector, but it broke away when I removed it.

The brake lines aren't too bad :) I've done front-rear on the twin exhaust setup twice now, and they're not too bad. On the one this weekend some of the pipe holder clips broke, either because they were brittle or the threaded stud they were screwed onto had rusted, but that just meant finding a new way of securing the pipe where mounting a new clip wasn't possible.

I used a crowbar... smacked the narrow end between the alloy base and mount, then gave it some leverage... the pin soon snapped either side and out came the bag!

Copper is pretty much always used in fixed refrigeration installations of all sizes with (so far as I know) all refrigerants, including 134a.

Not sure why it would be a problem on a car, possibly the relatively largeish size pipe might suffer from vibration and hardening/cracking more than alloy?

They should pop off with some encouragement. They have a clip on each one I think that makes a vague attempt at holding them in place.

Afraid not :( I'd say though, if you can't move the big grey cog with relative ease (with the motor removed obviously), I'd look at splitting the box and looking at each 'bearing' point.

The biggest culprit for causing the binding is the flaps that are on the 'front' of the box, that control the air to the footwell vents. Remove the little cog that joins those to the big grey gear and it'll probably move a lot more freely!

If you're testing on a power supply, don't drive the motors are 9 or 12v, try nearer 6-7 and see if it still manages to turn the flaps.

Was talking with Marty a while back, and when I did my first P38, I freed up the flaps enough that the motor could drive them when tested on a 9v battery. Back in the car though and on a HEVAC unit, it measured at 6v-ish and didn't have enough grunt to move the distribution flaps. Can't remember if we decided whether the HEVAC outputs using PWM or if its just 6v, but either way it wasn't enough without freeing the box up some more.

I've done the front to rear lines on mine, and they're not so bad. Just time consuming. Messy, if you decide to change it after having bled them (when I left out the short jump hoses, then decided I wanted them again!).

I've got a proper flaring tool for kunifer/steel lines, I didn't bother trying one of the cheap ones as by all accounts, they just can't do it.

Finally finished* this.

Turns out, getting decent fuel line in the UK is actually pretty difficult. All the R6/R9 stuff on eBay appears to generally be crap and not worth using - many posts on various forums about even the R9 stuff degrading rapidly, faster if the vehicle isn't in regular use. So that leaves a couple of brands worth using, so I went with Cohline 2240 8mm hose in the end. About £10/meter. Also went with a thermal sleeve to cover it up behind the engine. The hose is rated for 125 degrees c, but I figure every little helps. Ear clamps on either end too.

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I'm glad I went this route rather than trying to replace the original line, as getting the shaped lines over the gearbox and secured properly would me a bit of a mare with the engine/gearbox in place. I've just cut the fuel supply side off at either end of the moulded bit (moulded together with the evaporative return line), and cable tied this new hose to it neatly.

Anyway... on a test drive, no smell of fuel... but there was a distinctive hot smell. Rear brakes are binding, the drivers side badly... The front to rear lines need replacing, so I'm going to do the solid lines, all rear flexis, and replace both rear calipers. And chuck in a new drivers door window regulator for good measure.

All the 'walnut' hydro-dripped trim parts that are 'new' on eBay...

The motronic 'target engine speed' is, so far as I've come to know, normal. I'd ignore it.

Not sure what this 2500rpm stationary limit is? Mine will happily rev all the way to the top in park/neutral. I'd rather not for upsetting the box, but I've accidentally done it once or twice.

I believe the term for that is along the lines of 'fucked'

Reminded me to get my 10 month old pump returned for a replacement...

Not to advertise 'over there' too much, but have you come across this?

http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/32234-wet-footwell-roof-new-problem-fix.html

If the headunit is not lighting up, its unlikely to be the DSP amp, so no need to worry yet.