If you're thinking of swapping the BECM and ECU, you'll end up disconnecting the battery (or removing power from them at least by unplugging them), so why not just disconnect the battery now and give cleaning the plugs a go...?
Vehicle unlocked, disconnect battery. Check plugs, reconnect battery, all should be well, at least with regards to EKA etc.
The plenum foam is/was a crap idea anyway - replace it with some fine black mesh.
I have Britpart filters in mine and they fit fine, and seemed of decent construction. Coming up on a year old now so will renew them soon enough and see if they're still in one piece :)
Could be worse...
mace wrote:
Sloth wrote:
As for steering wheel controls - get a PAC SWI-RC. Its a learning steering wheel control adapter, so it will work with any controls, including either the early steering wheels or late (the resistor networks changed when the standard Clarion head unit was changed to an Alpine). You can also assign the buttons however you want with it.
How good is the response time with this one?
With my Pioneer head unit at least, instant. Marty had the same SWI-RC in his, I think with a Kenwood possibly?
Gilbertd wrote:
An aftermarket head unit with line level outputs will be just that, industry standard line level, usually 1V p-p, but the original puts out more than that so the danger is that the amps will be under driven. Using the speaker outputs and the attenuator network works well as the levels and impedance are correct. Anything with an output for a sub, can be connected to the original sub so even that will work. The difference in the remote controls between early and late is the values of resistors used so if using an aftermarket head unit you just need the suitable adapter to suit the later steering wheel.
I tried a couple of head units using the line outs, and never had a great result. With one, I found tying the grounds from the line outputs would produce reasonable audio, but there was some buzzing that got irritating. Most car head units output at least 2v, and then some are 4v (unless this is marketing BS, and referring to it in some other way, over to you Richard!). Mine were just the standard "2v" I believe. The 'Ray Ambler' antennuator method is near perfect, and will work with any head unit. I was sceptical at first, but I'm glad I stopped messing around with trying to use line level signals. I say 'near perfect' - there is a tiny, tiny buzz that can only be heard if everything is totally silent and the engine isn't running... it may even be present with the stock head units, I don't know, I've never kept either of them long enough to notice, because they were 18-20 years old and a tape/CD/FM radio doesn't cut it these days.
mace wrote:
Found some info online about after market head units, so a handful of resistor network attenuators will be the cheapest way to get audio sorted. Presumably the same theory for the sub amp, but will cross that bridge later. Steering wheel controls look like a resistor network, and there are various conversion units out there for that.
This is the way to go, the attenuator circuits aren't difficult and the sound from the individual door amps and stock speakers is actually very good. The downside is getting the sub to work properly. It can bedone, but I wasn't satisfied with the performance of it, and then the speakers had suffered foam rot and fell apart. I ended up removing mine and replacing the interior panels with a non-subwoofer version, and then hid an aftermarket amplifier behind said panels, and have a subwoofer sitting in the boot. Connected with a Speakon connector, so I can just unplug it and take it out if I need the small amount of space it takes up. I have a thread on here I think about that.
As for steering wheel controls - get a PAC SWI-RC. Its a learning steering wheel control adapter, so it will work with any controls, including either the early steering wheels or late (the resistor networks changed when the standard Clarion head unit was changed to an Alpine). You can also assign the buttons however you want with it.
Good lord
Do have a (somewhat pointless and in the way) battery cover on my parent's P38. Standard broken flasher though.
Morat wrote:
Swap you for a set of iSCSI storage arrays that have failed in a new, wonderful way and taken out lots of important stuff on their way down. OK, I'm warm and dry but I'm shitting bricks right now. It's taken me six hours to beat VMWare into shape to start receiving restore jobs. Payroll on Monday - this could make me very unpopular!
Veeam? I LOVE Veeam.
I'm genuinely amazed our main storage array hasn't shat itself in a multitude of fear-inducing ways yet... I'm also incredibly thankful that it hasn't.
What Gilbert said, though they didn't all have heated windscreens - from what I've seen though, if you had heated seats, you probably have a heated windscreen. Whether it works or not...
Orangebean wrote:
I'm pleased it's running OK though. If you and Nick aren't too busy today feel free to drop by and re-assemble mine for me :)
Oh (begging letter now), if you have any of the little bolts that hold coil pack bracket to block lying around you couldn't drop a couple into an envelope could you? I'm down to 1 with a rounded head now!
Good luck :)
The coil pack bracket will sit fine with just the bolts into the plenum - M6 I believe. Makes removing it in the future for the inevitable whatever much less of a pain. Mine only has one currently! So long as its bolted to something to ground it, as the coilpacks themselves ground through their mounting bolts.
Powerful LEDs need heatsinks (with or without fans) on the back because the heat they produce as a byproduct needs to be extracted away from the diode itself to prevent it from burning up. The source of the heat is just a very small surface area, hence the heat sink to distribute it. The total power draw of these is only 25-30w per lamp too. Should one overheat, the failure mode is pretty unspectacular - the tiny connections inside the LED package break and the lamp goes dark.
But yeah... I wasn't saying its going to melt the housing :) But I would be more concerned about the wiring, given on a P38 there are as standard, 6 55w lamps up front, two of which are dual filament. The BECM also won't light up two of the full beam filaments when using the flash function (which does not disable the dipped beam) in what I can only assume is a measure to keep the total power draw below a maximum.
But if its coping alright, then it seems up to the job for now!
Nicely done! Did that include changing the drier? Could probably wiggle it up through there, though not sure on how you'd do the top pipe up, and again its too cold to go look from underneath!
Gilbertd wrote:
That's right. There's the permanent live that should come directly from the battery (via a fuse obviously) while the ignition switched supply is on a red/white wire that connects to the common positive supply to the petrol injectors.
Aha, that answers that then :)
You'll be taking the bumper off anyway if your A/C doesn't work - cos it likely has a big hole in the top corner of the condenser. Decent torx sockets with an impact gun hasn't failed me yet.
The +12v has been permanent on all three I've had/have. I thought it knew when to wake up from voltage seen at the petrol injectors? I don't recall having an ignition switched input on the AEB system I took off my old car. Might have done... but it definitely had permanent 12v like the current two I've got.
When I try and login with test-sloth, it just returns me to the login page - without -test, I get the recaptcha.
Ooof, like some kind of disturbed creme egg...
100w is near double the current... I can't remember what the MOSFETs were rated at for the dipped/main beam lamps, but even if they're rated okay, who knows if the tracks in the BECM routing that power or the rest of the wiring is up to it long term. Not to mention the heat in the lamp housing.
I think I'll give the LEDs a go sometime.
Ooooh :)
The other one is hiding below the headlining just before the pipe disappears into the flexible section to the tailgate. it is also a bit of a pig to get at.
I just removed all the valves on my rear washer. Just need to hold the button for longer, better than nothing.
I think there was only one possibly loudish yelp and that was a compression clamp twatting my finger! No elastoplast required OB! :)
Other than that, just the usual quiet grumblings, wishing to inflict pain on various LR designers, etc, and a weekend of general natter! Followed by glorious V8ness.