The vacuum hose to the brake pedal switch can get a split in it where it goes through the firewall - mine looked fine at both ends... but I then blew down it, and heard the air hissing out buried in the firewall. Pulled it out and hello split.

With glue-lined heatshrink, for the best chance of keeping future coolant spillages/other water out :)

The TD6 is the M57 engine from the 5 series, where it produced at most (stock, anyway) 194hp. Pretty sure LR detuned it to around 170 odd in the L322, a vehicle that weighs considerably more than a P38 too.

Turbos go because there is an oil breather that had a filter element in it, that is an overlooked service item. This blocks up and starves the turbo of oil. Fix is to replace with a later 'vortex' type breather that has no need for a typical filter element. My 5 series suffered this in the past and has had a turbo - I made sure to put the new breather on it when I got it...

Which is all a shame, because it is a good engine, but like the M51 2.5 in the P38, not really up to the job as standard in an L322.

Ahh, poor show! boo hiss, etc ;)

Replying here as it seems to have happened since a thread was deleted..

A few times now, certain sections have been rather convinced of new/unread material, despite marking everything as read. Currently Oily Bits is doing it for me, ever since a spam thread was removed. Happens across browsers and after clearing cache etc.

Wow... that is a lot of info about their clamps!

Who knew they went into such detail... till now, I've only ever thought of the clip together type as 'those irritating bastards' :)

Hmm mixed feelings on those Cobra clips... plus I'd have to manage to get the right size to secure it nicely, where the Oetiker ones have a bit of flexibility.

no10chris wrote:

I've got a spare one of those if needed 🙂
Don't ask where I got, or why, I don't know..

Ha, thanks Chris! If I manage to cock this up, I'll drop you a PM... I was looking to replace it with OEM to start with, but then after getting underneath, it looks to be a bit of a pain to do. If needs must though..

The hose was BSAU 108/2, ie R6. And who knows how old it was before it was bodged onto this car.

Like the Pirtek idea, though I think I have a plan. I have been able to salvage the quick release fittings from the original line. Cutting the original plastic pipe off reveals nice hose barbs. I'm going to buy new R9 hose, and then also sleeve it in heat/fire retardant insulation for the section that runs up to the fuel rail behind the engine. As for clamps, I think I'm going to go with Oetiker ear clamps, as they're used on airlines with no issue, and I don't want the possibility of jubilee clips loosening up down there... I know you can get the 'fuel line' type, but surely any screw/worm drive clamp could back off over time.

For your viewing pleasure...

Wondering if this was R6 hose (can't make out the print in that picture, and its outside somewhere so I'll look later), which is apparently not good with ethanol content, nor is it rated for that high a pressure. Considering replacing the run with R9, which is good on both counts, and also running it in insulation behind the engine.

Had Lynx for all of a day, sent it back, bought a nanocom.

Oh it definitely does :) Ask me how I know...

Or, when the wear is so bad, the handle comes off in your hand...

Well they've had the car just over a year now, and it has been on since before then. I know the engine has been out at some point in its past, and it looks like they didn't disconnect the fuel line, as it has what looks like a snap rather than a cut in it. Will have a look in the service history later.

It is proper fuel hose, scarily. Not to say it isn't ainchient though - might have been a random off cut found when they bodged it back together.

Currently debating buying a used set of lines to replace, or looking into some braided / suitable flexible line and replacing that end to end.

So my parent's P38 has had a bit of a whiff of petrol on startup from the front, and about a week ago I saw the car again and it was obvious it was now constant, so it was parked up till I could get to it. Ordered new orings for the injectors, and various other bits to give it a service. It had started missing at idle etc and generally fuel consumption was way up.

So, assuming it was the o-rings, we pulled the upper plenum off (its a Thor), and had my dad turn the ignition on just to see if we could spot which one was leaking. Nope. Huge cloud of fuel vapour suddenly started pouring in from behind the coil packs, and I made various noises before diving for the extinguisher in the back of mine...

The Thor is returnless, with a single plastic shaped fuel line that connects to the rail underneath the coil packs, and has an abrasion protection thing around it. Or... it should have:

Someone has broken the original line, and replaced it with 6" of some kind of rubber hose... even if that were fuel hose, that's down the back of a very hot engine with no airflow at all. Either way, its disintegrated, and you can see all the cracks in it. Scary.

As for the poor running... one of the HT leads was falling off.

Going to throw it out there - after finding my thermostat had a moulding defect in it causing the return from the heater core to be 90% blocked off, we decided to leave my LPG and heater in parallel, and I've had no issues with lack of heat at idle since or the LPG taking ages to switch over - it has been a bit longer in the last few days, but its been much colder too. The inlets on my OMVL reducer look seriously restricting, 16mm pipe is a loose fit, and the actual ID is tiny.

There are bits of my plumbing that could be neater, but that's mainly because of what we had available to put it back together at the time, and I'm not going to drop a load of coolant again just to tidy the last bits up until there is a more pressing reason.

I've found the gauges to be relatively useless on mine :)

Full is full - great, I know its actually filled up and I haven't missed 70 litres of LPG pissing out.

Anywhere between 50-100 miles, it'll go from three lights to on the red over a distance of about 3 miles somewhere in that range. Then... sometime later I'll go back to one light. Where I might sit until about 200 miles, where it actually runs out and I go back to petrol :)

There will always be some pressure in the lines, even on the vapour side right up to the input sides of the injectors, after changing back to petrol.

Gilbertd wrote:

I noticed that Intermittent Wipe was set to Disabled. This seemed pretty odd as intermittent wipe works perfectly (or has since I filled the switch with contact cleaner). I have noticed a difference though. Now, if I have the wipers on and stop at a set of lights, they go into intermittent while stationary and go back to continuous as soon as I start to move, just like my works Renault. Not sure if it's a good thing or not but at least we now know what that command does.

That's the 'speed sensitive wipers' option isn't it? I turned it on on mine, and it does just that. Interestingly, I think I read in the nanocom / blackbox documentation that this only works on cars of a certain year or later, though mine being a bit of a bastard-lovechild, I figured I'd give it a go, and it works.

Never figured out what moisture detect is all about though... didn't fancy changing that one :)

The motronic code can be three or four digits I believe - if I recall, there was a bug in the nanocom that wouldn't let you enter a 4th digit on some older software version if yours decided it was four digits.

Thankfully when mine threw its toys out the pram, considering I'd never updated it, it was a 3 digit code...

You could - I suppose if the connections look clean on the loom side, once its back together in the ECU box, that's one less thing to change later.

Syncing the Thor ECU to the BECM requires checking the code on one side, and then coding/writing it into the other. I can't remember which way around it is though - I think you have to read it form the ECU, and then write it to the BECM. The learning function doesn't work like the GEMS (or at least, back when mine lost sync, it didn't, I have since updated my nanocom though so...)

When we did Marty's engine, he had the ECU off without disconnecting any power first - and if the ignition is off, the power to it should be disconnected anyway. But disconnecting the battery with the car unlocked (unlock and open a door, just to be sure it doesn't try to do that auto-relock thing if you walk away without opening magic) shouldn't cause any problems.