Possibly a stupid question... but have you tried pulling up the sill locks on a door once you've climbed inside?

Pump done, air eventually bled out, test drive uneventful. Will see tomorrow how many clamps need more cranking down.

I hadn't thought about that... what a muppet.

The dye looks fancy... I'm loving the Ikea destruction manual:

http://www.ringautomotive.com/files/mydocs/RLD2%20UV%20DYES%20Instructions%20Coolant.pdf

They removed that pipe for the Thor arrangement, instead the thermostat bypass circuit comes from the T piece in the rubber top hose. That leaves either valley gasket, top hose spout where it bolts on, throttle body supply, or the single coolant temperature sensor. The heater supply could conceivably leak result in coolant sitting in the valley too, but it would fill the little area below it first which would then overflow into the valley. I have some weeping there where it needs some fettling, but nothing major, and nothing has collected below it at all.

Tomorrow's problem.

Yeah. I didn't really think to look but I bet some of the LPG jets make unbolting the lower manifold a pain in the arse too. I'm sure it'll leak from somewhere, but depending on where and how much, it may just wait till nicer weather... or I can afford a new engine.

Just not enough light in a day to mess around outside and investigate everything as far as you'd like!

I don't think it's that uncommon to have some vapour condense and sit in the manifold, though mine hasn't done that to me before. Probably because most of the oil escapes through other still undetermined means. Had some buildup in other cars though, and its usually worse when a turbo is involved.

Not sure I've had enough to pour out rather than drip though. Hmmmm

I'm not convinced the gasket is actually leaking now. Using an inspection camera, I can't see any trace of coolant from any of the four corners of the lower inlet manifold where the passages in the heads are (I know the rear two are blocked off by the lower inlet, but the gasket could still leak).

It seems to have run from the front to the back starting directly below where the top hose spout bolts onto the manifold, but again that looks clean. I'm wondering if this is just left over from when I replaced my throttle body heater hose - a bit did come out the hose connection and disappear down onto the valley gasket then, and it wasn't all that long ago. Combined with the general grime on the valley gasket, and lower temperature than coolant sitting on metal surfaces, I guess it could just be that spillage that hasn't totally dried up. There isn't much of it left as liquid - the trail from front to back is dry, its just a little bit left at the back conveniently where my bolt dropped onto.

Unless anyone knows of any other likely sources, I think I'm going to continue changing the pump tomorrow and put it back together as is, and wash/degrease everywhere I can - see what comes back in a couple of hundred miles.

Oh come on!

So I decided to do the rocker cover first (putting off my dislike of the cooling system as much as possible, naturally). For some reason, the gasket refuses to sit nicely once tightened down and I can't see why. But given the liberal dosage of RTV this time round, I was happy with it...

Went to put the bolts back in the coil pack bracket after putting the inlet on and naturally dropped one down into the valley. Retrieved with the magnet, and its covered in coolant. So the valley gasket is leaking too... I don't have a new one of those...

"@£@(%@ing car. I suppose its better I find that before dropping and refilling with coolant...

Don't want to name and shame, cos it never turned up! Nor did the T piece, though I managed to acquire one semi-locally yesterday.

I suppose I should go and do it... need to overcome this massive bout of 'can't be arsed'.

Well I have a new pump to go on this weekend, enthusiasm and a 19mm T piece arriving today pending, and I've now got a cooling system pressure testing kit like Marty has. We used that to force coolant up and into my LPG vapourisor while the top-most hose on it was loose. Once coolant started coming out, the hose was tightened and that sorted that problem.

Machinemart sell a set of 1/4" sockets that are neither hex nor 12 point, but some odd arrangement that fit just about anything - I bought them specifically for the 8mm, that fits the rocker cover bolts. Now use them all the time for just about any small bolt.

Quite a lot more faffing with a Thor inlet isn't there! Espicially with LPG... mine will be coming off on the weekend to do a leaking rocker cover gasket too. Will definitely be using RTV this time!

A P38 can be done with a Nanocom, or the free RSW software and a DIY cable (or eBay), not sure on Discos though. Might be able to get it as a license for a Nanocom?

I haven't tried much with it yet, but it wouldn't surprise me if they're upside down or missing completely.

I think it does stop running as often after a while. I mainly noticed the other day when I was playing with the heater... I pulled the timer out in the end.

Nice work :) That pump looks like it got just a bit toasty!

I can hear my EAS pump, because the bushings aren't doing much, and the lid is vibrating on the box. I can hear it at idle inside the car, doors closed, and even with no middle silencer. Oh, and it keeps running for 20 seconds, stopping for 10, then starting again... not entirely sure why, yet. Rather irritating!

That's one of the troubles... with most other normal cars, you could just go and look at another one to see what its doing. My parents P38 for example... I could just go look at that one. But I know its climate control has all manner of faults too, so its pointless checking it :)

I think I'm probably going to live with this... it works well enough on the feet/screen position, there are other interior bits and pieces I'd rather move on to (once I've done the water pump annual replacement, anyway).

Well, bollocks. Just when I thought I'd live with it :)

I have no clue how I've done this then...

Now the water pump is leaking, this'll have to wait. Though I guess dropping the coolant again would make removing the heater core a bit easier at the same time.

Hmmm

A bit more googling suggests the Airtex is normally alright... maybe I've just been unlucky, but it would happen to mine, which is a complete bastard to bleed.

Will give Island a ring later and see about getting it replaced. Still, at least the location of the weep hole lets the coolant run down onto the casting that makes up the bottom hose inlet where it dries on so you can see it! So it can taunt you... 'so you think you're done with the cooling system, eh?'

They look in really nice condition! Even the drivers seat. Steal for 125.

Any other options bar the Airtex? Mine has been on less than a year and its now leaking past the shaft... not entirely amused.

Or maybe not...

Got enough morons driving around in the rain, fog and night with no lights on, how do we expect them to remember we've changed sides!?