Sensor is free of crud and it reports a reasonable temperature. It just seems no matter what temperature the inside of the car actually is, I get hot air at my feet. Unless I set it really low, then it will go cool. If I have the airflow set to both feet and face, to start with, when the interior is cold, I'll get hot air from both. Once the interior gets up to temperature, the face vents cool off... but my feet continue to roast.

This should not be possible...

I put my pre-requisite because I know a lot of P38s have HEVAC issues, but I wasn't quite expecting this lack of volunteers :) I jest.

If I leave it on auto, once its warmed up, I continue to get roasted feet, and cool air out the face/screen...

Pre-req: you will need working blend motors/flaps and distribution flaps, and the engine warmed up, and the interior warm.

In my P38, I have a strange thing happening. If I have the HEVAC set to say 22c, and the air set to come out of the face and footwell vents, once the temperature in the car reaches the set temp, the air from the dash cools off a bit as it should, but the air coming from the footwell vents is constantly hot. If I set the air to only come out of the footwell vents, its also always hot. This becomes a bit uncomfortable after a while, unless I set the air to only come out via face or screen vents. The air does go cold from the footwells if I set the temperature quite low though.

What does your car do? I don't know if I've cocked up rebuilding the heater box, I'm pretty sure I haven't. Blend motors are calibrated, though really shouldn't make a difference as the temperature coming from each vent (per side anyway) should be the same regardless of what the HEVAC thinks, and the distribution works fine.

Looking at the old one, the air to the footwells goes back down over the back of the heater core section, which I guess could be warming it up, but I wouldn't have thought enough to keep it properly hot.

Ooooh at last! Looks good!

Does it have an additional speaker in the rear on both sides?

I wonder if that DSP amp is actually different, or whether they tacked the extra speakers on to the standard loom and hoped for the best.

Morat wrote:

Hurrah! Time to press all the buttons and see what actually happens....Best of luck :)
I hope those brakes clean up....

OB's probably now sat on the bump stops with the sunroof stuck open, all four windows down, and the heater blowing full cold at his feet...

Excellent!

Will it appear on the back of a trailer/flatbed propped up on bricks with no wheels, interior or glass perhaps...?

Will need pics of its materialisation, of course!

No afraid not. I'd be very surprised if it didn't work though. Its just emulating a changer.

If the part numbers of the head units for a nav and non-nav car are the same, I'd be even more inclined to think it would work. Marty would know more, but I thought the nav just told the DSP amp to mute when needed?

I can't see why it wouldn't work - it just plugs in where the CD changer does... so you lose the changer, but oh well.

I had one - sold to... Spiggy? I think. Only sold it as my head unit was a bit flaky and in the end wanted to change the head anyway.

We're getting technical, excellent :)

My quiescent draw is going to be a little higher than most I'd imagine - the tracker draws 27ma while sat there with a data connection open, spiking very briefly every 60 seconds to transmit.

Because they're relatively cheap, I'm going to start with a 10w panel on the roof and keep a close eye on the state of the battery and charge current for a while and go from there.

Did it have a new cam? Need to break it in if so.

Hmm I'm sure I replied, maybe I forgot....

I'm tempted to try a 10w one without a controller to start with, bearing in mind how much daylight we actually get, and for how long...

It's a shame the P38 sunroof has that ceramic/etched sun shade in the glass, or that would be a nice spot for a solar panel inside (if it weren't being covered, anyway).

My P38 needs to spend some time parked up, and will likely only get driven once a week or so (unless we actually get some snow down this way for a change...) over the next few months. It has a good battery, and I haven't had any drain issues that I'm aware of. It does have a tracker fitted that draws a tiny bit of power however. It may be that it gets left quite a while, and I don't really want to risk the battery draining. Last time it did (before the new battery, admittedly) I was on holiday, and it went nuts, and burnt out the front door latch motors.

I have no access to mains power, or I'd just connect it up to a CTek charger, leaving me thinking about solar panels. I will be putting a cover over the car to keep it clean, so I was thinking about a panel of some size with magnetic feet lobbed on the roof on top of the cover, cable fed in under the tailgate and eventually plugged into the rear 12v socket (mine is switched, so it can be always on direct 12v).

Looking on eBay, I have many options. I presume I'd want something between 10-25w, and if I'm at the higher end, a charge controller would be a good idea.

Has anyone played with such setups? OB, I recall seeing you say somewhere you have something setup on your motorhome?

It's an OMVL Dream xxi with Matrix injectors. The ECU is the same AEB one used among most multipoint systems though I think.

On mine, if you press and hold the button while turning the ignition on (pos 2), I wait till I hear the solenoids click and the green gas light will flash... then I release the button, and start it up. Starts straight on gas.

Or, as we found out while pissing about with the heater matrix (dash out etc) and bleeding the cooling system, if the controller is unplugged, it starts on gas too... not ideal when the vaporiser was full of air and froze up completely! Made some interesting noises.

Slightly concerning...

Has it materialised?

Mine decided to lose sync again leaving work... unlocked with key and made a quick plea to insert diety before sticking the key in the ignition and waited in what seemed like agony for the light to flash a few times before the locks popped up and it was happy again...

Strongly considering moving to an aftermarket remote setup like I did on my first P38.

Well, I'm out :)

I wouldn't own one of these without a Nanocom. This morning, mine took objection to not being driven since Monday, and threw two EAS sensor faults when it raised up after starting it. Cleared them and off we went. Need to pay some attention to the EAS at some point.