Not much - kick panel, the trim around the seat base, the sill plate, side of centre console, and the panel above the footwell. A few bits, but none are really difficult. Then you should be able to lift the carpet and manhandle it enough to get a stanley knife under to cut the foam.
On my original 96, the foam was bonded to the thick rubber / plastic type material, so I cut through that and removed it together. On my current one, the thick rubber/plastic bit seems to be bonded to the carpet and the foam is separate, so I just cut the foam out. In either case the carpet does not get cut and just folds back down to hide the missing underlay for the time being. When its dried out, it will sit in place quite nicely despite being cut.
I've had pollen filter/plenum leaks on the drivers side of both of mine, and on both I've cut the foam insulation under the carpet out completely to let it dry. Still haven't gotten around to putting it back in this one...
It's really dense foam - wasn't a chance it was going to try out in the car. Plus, cutting it out gives you a chance to soak it in soapy water etc to clean it up and get rid of any musty smell.
With massive thanks to Marty, yesterday we swapped my heater box, core, and replumbed the whole cooling system... by chance, we found the cause of my cold heater at idle, and it wasn't the LPG plumbing.
Heater box and core swap was the straight forward bit. It was when we got to changing the heater return and expansion tank line as I'd said about to put the vapouriser in series with the heater and simplify things a bit, Marty decided to remove the thermostat entirely to fit a hose on (coolant all drained as I had new top/bottom/pump hoses to chuck in too). Then he saw this...
Just cut it apart to see from the other side:
Pretty thick defect:
That be the heater/expansion return port... as you can see, not much is getting through that!
As luck would have it, Marty had a new spare Britpart or possibly Bearmach stat in his stash, so we took a chance on that, and put it back together leaving the LPG in parallel. The ID on the ports on my OMVL vapouriser is really, really small. Given the restriction on the stat, it seemed logical to stay parallel. Because my car is weird though, the expansion/heater return hose wasn't standard, and doesn't look like the normal Thor part, so we improvised and lost the metal pipework and old rubber hoses. It's nice a simple now, just need to get a 19-19-19mm T to replace a few bits we had to stick together to join things up.
Most importantly... no leaking heater, and heat at idle! Plenty of it. I was quite excited :)
I've seen it and even given it a bit of a feeling up!
It is very pretty.
If the vehicle has been off-roading or generally up and down muddy/dusty tracks a fair bit in its life, its possible they've been buried in dried on crap.
I'll get out the tin foil.. :)
Doesn't bother me - happy to contribute if it comes to it too.
Tried entering the EKA via nanocom? A 97 might have a recent enough software version on the BECM, I think? Not sure.
Image borrowed from you-know-where:
They are above the gearbox on the underside of the transmission tunnel, one either side of the box.
So... is it now willing to start?
The rear doors won't unlock themselves until the EKA is entered, or the BECM otherwise disarmed. If it's a 1995, I'd guess its unlikely to have a recent enough software version to allow the EKA to be entered via a Nanocom, so you'd need to do it with the key in the drivers door, assuming the switches in that door all work properly.
Hello!
Have you tried entering the EKA in the normal way? The central locking will appear to be non-functioning because of the keycode lockout. If its a 95, I suspect (?) it would have a BeCM with too early a software version to enter the EKA through a Nanocom.
Martyuk wrote:
a big BBQ (maybe a discovery sized one?) should keep some of the chill off..
That sounds like a plan!
A blessing in disguise...
Who needs plasters when you have a bit of kitchen roll and duct tape, anyway?
Ah one thing I could use a hand with... my tailgate has been replaced at some point, and isn't lined up quite right. Its much closer on one side than the other, and also squeaks... would really appreciate some help tweaking the hinges to get it right.
I still have a scar on my leg! Bastard thing.
I'm about whenever :)
I have a big infrared heater, needs a 16amp socket though. Not sure if your leccy is metered - probably cheaper to brave a bit of carbon monoxide if so!
Damn... the car's nice.... but that garage....
I'd be up for a winter camp! Hopefully I won't have anything pressing needing doing (then again, January is a long way away in P38 world), but up for camp nevertheless. If a BBQ is involved... all the better.
It's already plumbed in to return exactly where 20 is pointing to, which is quite neat and out of the way.
Just had another thought on this. My LPG coolant outlet returns into the header tank hose (20). I was going to replace this hose and move the return to the metal heater core return pipe on the engine. Instead, could I not leave the return where it is, and instead, disconnect the metal pipework down by the thermostat by replacing the three way hose (red) arrangement between stat, heater core return metal pipework and heater tank metal pipework, and replacing it with a bit of hose (green) between stat and header tank metal pipework?
As in crude image:
Trying to remove possible air lock locations and simplify the pipework. The metal heater return pipework would just sit there disconnected and obviously empty.