Gilbertd wrote:
Washing up liquid mixed with ground coffee, works just as well as Swarfega and smells nicer too. Or you could be a wimp and get some latex gloves.....
Is that fresh coffee of instant?
After looking at a couple of pictures, i understand now. I didn;t realise that there were 2 bolts at opposite corners to each other as it'sa bit hard to see under there anyway. Bit of an awkward position. I also didn't know that the holes are oval to allow for the "rotation". I was sat thinking, "well if i rotate it, then the holes won't line up". I shall have another attempt now.
I best get some swarfega tomorrow. There's that much oil under there, I reckon the USA will invade me any minute!
I've had a look underneath. Now im no mechanic so it does take a bit of time for me to figure stuff out and make sure i don't bugger anything up.
I undid the 12mm centre nut, and i undid the 10mm bolt but nothing was moving. i couldn't "rotate" anything.
I moved on to removing the split pin and seeing how i got on manually shifting gears. I did manage to get "N" to light up once, but thats all. I couldn't replicate it.
Soldered up the 16 pin cable today and did it with the 5v regulator. Still black and white. damn it! took ages to solder all them tiny wires to get the esame reult as yesterday where i literally just plugged the jack into the side. DOH!!! Any suggestions???? The screen definately has colour as when it's plugged into the head unit, you get blue menus. although, the feed from the head unit would go into the R,G,B pins.
I have no idea and can't offer an insight.
However I can agree that same is different.
I've got 2 identical p38s. Same year, same engine. The old one goes like shit off a stick, whereas the new one I just got seems a bit more refined. Let's say one is wild, and the other is domesticated.
sounds like a simple mend. I'll have the Mrs sit in it tomorrow. Or perhaps i'll sit in it and send her under!
Been out with a reliable source and same thing. also only displays in 4:3. It's a bit like a parking camera feed although i don't see why it is because you have to manually plug the jack in to get a picture, and then pull it back out to return it to ordinary mode.
No probs. We'll go with plan B and solder the 16 pin cable and see what we get then.
More info as i've just been out in it to pick the kids up. When you select neutral, the neutral light doesn't light up. However, the drive light does and it also says "D" on the dash. But the car doesn't move so it's not in drive. It's as though the gearbox is in neutral, but nothing is telling the computer wot nots that it is.
Gilbertd wrote:
Or the PS2 has been configured to output RGB and not composite....... You need a known working video source, do you have a camcorder?
A camcorder? Yeah might do. I'll just need a time machine to go back to 1990 whatever to get it. lmao. Do people still use camcorders?
yeah I thought of that after i posted. it's the ps2 thats already in the boot. i used that as i know it works (not that ill be using it) I'll rig up something else as there's a possibility it's an imported ps2.
Gilbertd wrote:
Gear selection is mechanical by cable but the XYZ switch (which is attached to the side of the gearbox and driven by the same cable) tells the electronics what position the mechanical lever is in. The outputs from the switch are used by the gearbox ECU as well as the displays. If the mechanical lever and switch position don't correspond, that flags up as an error and you go into limp mode and gearbox fault comes up on the dash. In limp mode the sport button doesn't work either. The change from High to Low is done by a switch under the centre console (which instructs the transfer box ECU to operate the motor to change ratio) but with no signal to show you are in Neutral, it won't allow the motor to do anything.
Google chucks up the possibility of a Neutral Sensing Switch. About £7. Looked in Rave but can't find where it lives.
is the gear selection mechanical or electronic? i.e does it need to be told by a computer that its in neutral before it selects it, or does it work like a bog standard manual gearbox?
Martyuk wrote:
Yes, the 12V regulator or something simple like that will work. You could also use a couple of resistors to make a voltage divider - but either way will give the required voltage.
If the device has the 3.5mm jack, then should be easy to connect - if not, then you'll have to try the pins on the rear connector - but either way, it's a standard composite video signal that it is expecting - so you should be able to get something out of it!
so, stripped it out and it does indeed have a 3.5mm jack on the right side. Consulted the manual for the jack wiring and the tip is video. Usually tip is left audio on cables isn't it? i found a short stereo jack to rca cable and the white (left audio ususally) matches up to what would be the video at the jack end. Tip video, sleeve ground. Anyway, hooked it up and it works. Only prob is, it's black and white. Any reason why? In normal mode, the monitor displays colour. As soon as you put the jack in, the pic is B+W.
Gilbertd wrote:
Do you mean you physically can't get the lever to stop in the Neutral position? You must be able to go through Neutral to get from R to D, what happens then? If all the other lights are working, what about the display on the message centre? Does that read correct? If they are both reading correctly, then it isn't a problem with the XYZ switch.
You can go up and down the gear box no bother. 1,2,3,D,R,P Red light next to selected gear lights up and Dash says what gear you're in. But there is no neutral. It don't stop there.lol. doesn't light up, doesnt say N on dash. If you try putting it into low range, all hell breaks loose with beeps telling you to select neutral.
I think i recall reading somewhere that something can get stuck if Neutral isnt used much or at all and it involves taking something to bits to fix it. lol.
Here's a good one for Friday.
Why might i not be able to select Neutral? Red light doesn't come on either. It's as if there is no spoon. I mean there is no neutral. And for obvious reasons, i can't get it into low range.
It'll go in any gear
The corresponding red light comes on,
sportmode works
Drives spot on. No weird noises.
Read the manual for the system and as you said, there is supposed to be a 3.5mm jack on the right hand side of the screen casing that auto switches to that input when you put the jack in and won't switch back until you remove the jack. If that's correct, that would appear to be the easiest way forward
Martyuk wrote:
You can try those pins for sure.
I'm not sure if they are they input pins, or a further video output, say to rear screens.
But worth trying video signal to that pin, and video ground to pin 9.
I need to have a look on my laptop again and translate the page to make sure the selector pin is happy with 12v or whether you need to drop it to 5v max, but that's easy enough to do if needed.
the diagram i'm looking at shows
Pins 3,7,9,13 = Ground
Pin 10 = vcr video input
Pins 15, 16 = Display + (i imagine it means 12v)
Pin 12 = Display on/off/video. (Says "open input display off", "0-2.5v display on/navigation/video mode" and ">3.5 display on/vcr video mode"
looks like a voltage regulator on pin 12 to keep it down to 5v. Will this work from maplins?? (http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/ts2940cz-co-5v-1a-low-dropout-fixed-positive-voltage-regulator-n67ca?cmpid=ppc%3Acomponents%3Apla%3Agoogle&gclid=CNXu-Ii_19MCFQ48Gwod2zEHhQ)
Martyuk wrote:
You can try those pins for sure.
I'm not sure if they are they input pins, or a further video output, say to rear screens.
But worth trying video signal to that pin, and video ground to pin 9.
I need to have a look on my laptop again and translate the page to make sure the selector pin is happy with 12v or whether you need to drop it to 5v max, but that's easy enough to do if needed.
the diagram i'm looking at shows
Pins 3,7,9,13 = Ground
Pin 10 = vcr video input
Pins 15, 16 = Display + (i imagine it means 12v)
Pin 12 = Display on/off/video. (Says "open input display off", "0-2.5v display on/navigation/video mode" and ">3.5 display on/vcr video mode"
looks like a voltage regulator on pin 12 to keep it down to 5v. Will this work from maplins?? (http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/ts2940cz-co-5v-1a-low-dropout-fixed-positive-voltage-regulator-n67ca?cmpid=ppc%3Acomponents%3Apla%3Agoogle&gclid=CNXu-Ii_19MCFQ48Gwod2zEHhQ)
Martyuk wrote:
I don't think the above linked converter would work anyway - it's proven to work the the later Land Rover fitted sat nav screen which uses SOG (sync on green) for the video signal.
Taking a quick look at the specs for your screen however, the navigation side of things uses a RGBS system, RGB with separate Sync wire) so you could either a) get a converter to RGBS - OR it looks like it already should have a 3.5mm jack connector for an external VCR (as it would have been in those days!) - but going by the signal format, it looks like a standard composite video feed.
To get it to work, you would need to get/make a cable to feed audio and video into a 3.5mm plug, from whatever your source is going to be, and then obviously get the power/ground pins connected up. It also looks like you need to connect Pin 12 to tell it to turn on in VCR mode - which is easy enough, the spec shows anything over 3.5V will do that - so hooking it up to an ignition switched supply will do it, and then turn the screen on/off when the key is turned on/off in the vehicle.
Right. So am I on the wrong lines thinking that i could use a standard yellow rca jack, snip the jack from one end, wire the av signal wire into pin 10, put the av ground wire to ground and put 12v into pins 12,15 and 16? or is that right?
fingers crossed for a 3.5mm jack though. i have a user manual and it's listed in there but doesnt show a picture. Nor does any i've seen on google. I'll whip the dash out tomorrow and have a nosey.
I think i intend to run the audio feeds into the radio head unit as per my last car utilizing the cd changer lines.
I have one of these if there is indeed a 3.5mm jack
Gilbertd wrote:
That's all that is needed quite often. As you found you get a groove in the pipe where the O rings bear on it and they start to leak, slicing a bit off the end and the leak goes away. However, normally the fact the cars drops to it's knees whenever it's left gets ignored, the pump has to work overtime so wears itself out, the owner gets quoted a stupid price to replace the pump so they end up putting springs on instead. All for the sake of 20 minutes with a Stanley knife......
Been parked up 5 hours and still standing on all fours. Think we've cracked it.
The guy was selling it mainly because of the "parasitic drain" and that will have put most off. T'was nothing but a mini eas leak waking up his BECM. Total repair cost £6.
LOL
Thanks Gilbertd for the advice.