I can remember many years ago trimming the soundproofing slightly around the modulator to get better access to the nipples.

I also replace the nipples on the modulator and calipers as necessary every few years, usually when I change the fluid. Along with the slider pins.
It makes the job easier.

Did a bit of investigating as to why fuel not getting through and car would not start. Unscrewed the fuel banjo on the FIP. No fuel when cranking.
Checked fuse 39 OK, relay RL12 tested OK. Ran a lead from battery +ve to pin 87? under RL12, I think it was. The in tank pump would still not run.
Opened the "hatch" in the boot to get at the pump. Unplugged the connector and plugged in my spare pump just lying on the carpet to test it. The new unconnected pump ran immediately the ignition was turned on. Surprised, I thought it only ran when engine was turning over? Earlier cars pump just when glow plugs come on.
Anyway the problem now confirmed as a duff intank pump (Britpart). Been in less than 5 years. Original factory one was in for 15 years.
Unscrewed fuel unions and loosed the ring holding the sender unit in. Lifted the sender unit out and found the rubber tank seal had slipped down inside the tank and was caught around the base of the sender. It had swelled up to twice its normal size in the diesel. Explains why my fuel gauge sticks sometimes. Ordered new tank seal.

Quick question on glueing the headlining. Did anyone fold the fabric over the edge and glue it on to the back? or is it not worth the effort? Just finish it off flush?

Also, I have been cleaning up the pillar trims. I just used warm water and dish washing liquid with a foam scourer pad thingy and a nail brush.
What was the issue with the flock coming off? What flock? Mine are ABS with a rough matt finish. Was there an early and late version of the trim?

Pierre, my friend, your post was very informative about importing stuff into Ireland. I don't have a problem with it.

What I do have a problem with is your last paragraph introducing politics into the equation. Brexit is something that the electorate of the United Kingdom voted overwhelmingly for. We are not all stupid and to say we didn't understand what we were voting for is an old discredited argument.
I suggest you delete the last paragraph and stay off politics.

I do however wish to ask you another question on headlining.

Finished epoxy'ing the edge of the headlining. I just brushed it on after mixing and the laminate was held together with clothes pegs. Stiffened the edge up nice. Then stuck sound deadening panels to the inside of the roof and cleaned up some of the pillar trims.
Need to get some mates to help now with glueing the fabric.
Car will still not start. No diesel at the injectors and bubbles in the fuel line to the FIP.

There used to be a specialist garage local to me in Chester that rebuilt classic rangerovers back in the 1980's and 1990's. It was called Bluebird garages. They did body off rebuilds with all new panels. No patching in of repair panels. They had rotating jigs for doing the bodies.
Their cars were well regarded. Don't know what happened to them. Maybe they retired. They would be in their element now.

https://stainlesssteelexhausts.co.uk/range-rover-p38-2-5l-bmw-diesel-1997-2002-exhaust-system/

Not going to be cheap. Made to order from any grade of stainless you specify. I know they are well made.
It seems you have to login and register to get a price.

Wasted a day of my life that I will never get back.

Headlining job is ongoing. I cleaned off the foam backing by scrubbing with an industrial vacuum cleaner and a stiff brush attachment followed by a small wire brush. I then painted epoxy on one edge and clipped it with about 50 clothes pegs. Will finish it off over the next few days.
Thanks by the way for all the tips and advice. Much appreciated. It is good to hear from people who have done the job before.

Then my problems started. I thought it a good idea to run the engine to charge up the battery. Too late ... battery flat. I hadn't used it for 4 or 5 weeks. Put it on charge for a few hours. Would still not start.

Thought it had lost sync. Got the diagnostics out. EMS code was unchanged. Still would not start. Had a spare engine ECU on the bench. Swapped it over and changed the code. Still would not start.

My fuel gauge sometimes sticks on zero. Problem has been there for a bit and it seems to be a sticking float. Only this time I think it really was zero in the tank. Decided to put some diesel in from a full 20L jerry can. Seemed a lot heavier than I remember. LOL. Gauge goes up to about 1/4. Still would not start.

Starts pouring down.

I want to keep my car and keep it in good nick. When jobs come up I only want to do the job once.
I fitted a double SS stainless exhaust over 10 years ago when my original back box rusted through. I bought it secondhand on Ebay.

New, stainless exhausts cost a fortune. It is one thing I would buy secondhand. It should last the life of the car. Some stainless systems are very flimsy. Double SS are good. You get what you pay for.

I later replaced the middle box. The only parts that are not stainless now are some of the clamps, the diesel DPF (mild steel) and of course the manifold (cast iron/steel).

The exhaust was a bit louder when first fitted but it quietens down after a few years as it soots up with carbon.

It impresses MOT testers. LOL.

Thanks Harv. It is a bit friable around the edges and now has a few additional cracks where I bent it to get it out. It certainly looks like a composite material with a fibreglass backing. You can see the fibreglass matt. It is very thin.

I will scrub the orange foam backing off from the headlining material first. Then I am thinking of mixing some clear epoxy/hardener and just paint it on with a paint brush round the edges and on the back to beef it up. Should be an easy job says he.

Thanks Richard. i did all that ..... seats all reclined and head rests removed.
I think maybe I should have opened the bottom tailgate and forced the headlining down lower to prevent bending it.

I do 3d printing and ABS welding with heat or acetone is an easy to do.

I am not sure at this stage what the headlning backing is exactly made from. Will examine more closely tomorrow.
It looked like a fibreglass backing but not so sure now. I have a gallon can of epoxy, which I use for my wood turning, that I will can use.

Removed the headlining. Took 3 hours in total. Two of us ..... me and my 12 year old grandson (teenager in 2 months).
Most fittings removed without drama but two seat belt clips cracked. Otherwise OK.
A lot of time spent sussing out how how the fittings are clipped together. Disappointed the backing had to be bent to get it out of the car.

Next stage is repairing the backing and getting the orange foam residue off. Then the fun starts .... glueing the new headling on.

Yes, the ARP ones for the M51 diesel are studs @ £360 for a set. I can't justify that.
I would be happy going to ordinary 12.9 studs or bolts, even so they are going to be around £10 each. They are metric fine 1.5mm while most you see online are metric coarse 1.75mm.
I have got plans for the engine. A variable vane turbo off an M57 L322 and a replacement FIP with a 14mm plunger. I want to run 2 bars boost.
Target 250bhp.

I am slowly building up a BMW M51 engine and I have been looking at alternatives to stretch bolts, which I am not keen on.
The bolts are M12x1.5x147mm and there are 14.
It doesn't help you, but to give you a ball park idea of the torque, if the bolts were substituted for 12.9 grade high tensile bolts they could be torqued up to a maximum of 100 ft lbs. You would however not tighten stretch bolts to this.
12.9 grade or EN16T has a yield strength of 180,000 psi.
I looked at ARP bolts which are expensive. ARP8740 is a chrome moly steel and the threads are rolled again after hardening. It is 180,000 - 210,000 psi. A newer ARP alloy seems to be 625+ which is 260,000 - 280,000 psi.

+1 for second-remote-repairs aka Jon Dean.

I had my key unsuccessfully repaired by Fobfix of Bradford and Jon Dean then repaired someone else's mess.

Pierre,
what do you recon the total area is for the sound deadening panels? I need to get some ordered. I only have a few pieces left from a generator box I built. Mine came in 200x300mm and 300x400mm sizes.
Looking at your previous pictures there are 4 smaller panels over the rear passenger seats and 2 full width over the parcel shelf. I don't have a sunroof so I will also do where it normally goes.
Likewise, have you noticed any improvement?

Looks a nice job. You have now been elevated to our resident expert on roof lining retrims.
I need to start mine after Easter. I have just found I don't have enough sound deadening panels.

You don't get something for nothing. The first law of thermodynamics. (or you don't get owt for nowt).
The mpg is improved quite a bit and the acceleration also with a hybrid electric motor. It is regererative. It turns kinetic energy to electrical energy.
The first stage of braking kicks in the charger, like formula 1 cars that have or used to have KERS.

I must admit zero road tax was a factor choosing my Volvo. I have also filled the tank twice in the last 2k miles. The rest has been on battery.
I get 2.4 charges for the same price as a gallon of fuel, equivalent to 120 mpg.
What I don't like is the servicing costs. £550 for a major service! Not used to these prices since I do all the p38 servicing myself.

I had a specific set of requirements when I got mine. I wanted a phev that could plug in on a standard 13 amp socket and it needed to be able to tow a caravan of at least 2 tonnes with reasonable mpg. It was really to act as backup for the p38.

A pure EV could be a nightmare trying to plan a route and having to find charging stations. A Tesla seems better with their charging system.
If you live in London a pure EV could be a good bet though. It might be cheaper than buying a season ticket on the railways.

A lot of hybrids now are soft or mild hybrids. They have a regenerative system and don't plug in. The battery is there to assist with mpg.

There is a gap in the market now disposing of EV batteries in an environmentally friendly way, if you are wanting to diversify Lpgc.
Battery packs, those that couldn't be recycled or repaired of course, would need to be dismantled and broken down into constituent parts.
That is not without its dangers but could be done safely with the right equipment and procedures.

Volvo told me my hybrid battery was not covered by their extended warranty because they were not geared up as a company for handling and disposing of batteries on a national scale.

I think you are talking about a charge in lieu of road tax. I have got a plug in Volvo hybrid and at the moment it is free here in the UK.

Charging points are a mess here. There are at least four different types each with a different cable. Tesla do their own thing and only a Tesla's can use their system. There are now fast chargers with a different cable. There are also early and late cables. The Toyota Prius uses the early type. My Volvo uses the later figure of 8 cable.

You can't just turn up and plug in. You have to sign up on your phone and book the slot. Then you have got all the hassle if someone else is parked in your slot. The cost of electricity for some such as those at motorway service areas works out more than the equivalent cost of fuel. 35p/kWh in some cases. At home I am paying 13p/kWh.

One or two are free such as larger supermarkets, but they are few and far between.