The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
781 posts

I have the full Faultmate diagnostics for the p38 including being able to unlock and clone BECM's.
I have had the kit for 10 years+ and used it quite a bit for one thing and another, though to be honest I have not really made full use of the BECM module.

I unlocked and cloned I think 3 BECM's as spares for my car when I first got it, however, I was put off a bit because getting access to the CPU on the logic board involves soldering fine wires onto microscopic components on the pcb. Soldering is a nightmare for me, as electronics is not my thing, not helped by failing eyesight. Though having said that I have recently bought a magnifying headset and better soldering equipment which helps me a lot.

I built a test jig out of acrylic sheet a while back (the mk1 version) but it was not really a viable method and didn't work properly. Because the weather has been so crap over the last few weeks (months?) I have used the time to build a mk2 version using new spring loaded test pins. I also used a new laser cutter that I recently bought to cut out the jig. After more than a dozen revisions I might add, it now works. It is still work in progress and needs a few improvements but soldering is no longer required. I have unlocked and played around with a further 3 this week.

I can now start to offer a service to forum members who are interested. It will be strictly one at a time and there will be restrictions on the type of BECM I can initially unlock. There are two versions of the logic board. I am set up to do version 2. Later BECM's that start YWC ......... should be ok.

pm me if interested.

I have been having a sort out of my diagnostic kits. I usually use a Fautmate on the car as I am familiar with it and can find my way around it, but I have also have an RSW EASunlock and an Allcomms, plus the free version for EAS.
I bought the EASunlock directly from Storey Wilson years ago. It was originally on a Toughbook running XP and I had to get it activated just now by RSW again to run on a new windows 11 laptop. No problem, no cost, and it updated to v4 automatically. I think his software is locked to one computer.

Allcomms is a different matter. I bought it on Ebay over 10 years ago and I don't have the activation code. There isn't even a public link to download the software. Not surprising as there are a load of Chinese clones. Storey must be well pissed off after all his hard work.
I believe my Allcomms is genuine. The case and the lead are identical to my known geniune EASunlock.
I think a separate licence can be purchased but it dosn't say so on the RSW website. A new Allcomms is $227.
Before I contact him again, anyone have an Allcomms? it is mainly for the L322 I think.

In the realm of luxury and might,
Where elegance meets off-road's delight,
There roams a majestic chariot grand,
With prowess and style, across the land.

Behold the P38 Range Rover, esteemed,
A legend of engineering, it gleamed.
Its silhouette strong, a timeless design,
With grace and power, a sight so fine.

Adorned in metal, shining with pride,
Its curves and edges, a symphony's ride.
A conqueror, it treads on rugged terrains,
Unyielding to obstacles, breaking all chains.

The engine roars, a symphony untamed,
Unleashing its might, it cannot be tamed.
A beast within, with horses that surge,
Propelling forward, with each tire's urge.

Inside, a sanctuary of lavish repose,
Fine leather caresses, where comfort flows.
Crafted with care, the cabin's allure,
Whispers of luxury, so pure and sure.

Technological marvels at every touch,
A seamless fusion, oh, it's all too much.
From panoramic views to infotainment divine,
A realm of innovation, where wonders entwine.

Through sunlit days or moonlit nights,
The P38 Range Rover paints vibrant sights.
From city streets to nature's domain,
It conquers all realms, no challenge in vain.

Oh, P38 Range Rover, majestic and bold,
You capture our hearts, as stories unfold.
A symbol of adventure, grace, and might,
Forever embedded in memories bright.

(courtesy of ChatGPT)

My headlight units don't match. I have got one silver and one black headlight. It has been like that for a bit and I thought it about time I changed out the silver one. I have bought a good black headlight but with a broken housing. The headlight itself is OK.

I thought, no problem, I will take out the original headlight assembly from the car complete with the housing then fit the replacement headlight off the car. However, I have run into a few snags. I can't get the old headlight assembly off the car. One of the bolts in front of the battery is rusted solid as well as hard to get at. It won't take a socket and really needs drilling out (not keen). Plan B is to separate the new headlight from the broken housing and fit just the headlight to the housing still on the car.
The headlight has 3 brass adjusting screws which form ball and socket joints at the rear of the headlight. The brass ball sits in a nylon cup in the plastic.
What is the proper way to separate these? it looks as though they just lever out but I don't want to damage it. Rave does not cover it.

somewhere in Wales

I am at a bit of a loss for words. Read the article and watch the video.
Anyone know where it is and who the breaker is? His future pension is assured.

One of the channels I follow on YouTube is Salvage Rebuilds UK. As luck would have it, the guys have just aquired a p38 non runner that has been sat in a field for a few years.

p38 DHSE

Early days yet, but interesting to see what progress they make. The guys are very experienced mechanics but not with a p38.

Britcar 2.0

Rising like a Phoenix from the ashes.

I am on the Battery Megastore's mailing list having bought a battery from them earlier on this year.

Battery Megastore

For guys in the UK, they are now back in stock and there is a 10% off voucher, making the MF31-1000 now down to about £91.
Cracking battery if you haven't tried one before.

I don't wish to temp fate, but are there any recommendations for providing breakdown cover?
My p38 is currently not covered and it is coming up to 22 years old. I occasionally tow a trailer or caravan and I don't need European cover.
I would prefer a breakdown service that calls a local garage out rather than ones that have their own fleet like the RAC or AA.

This has been on and off for a while but seems to be back in favour again. There is a House of Commons select committee looking at it and it could be introduced "within weeks" apparently.
I have just had my p38 MOT'd and the mileage I did from the previous MOT in 2020 was only 350 miles. Admittedly it was SORN'd for 5 months.
I quite fancy getting a second p38, maybe a decent petrol one and just leave it parked out in the road to be used now and then. If it is not used, it costs nothing.
I hope the new scheme is not going to be half and half. A fixed charge and a mileage charge. I have got a shed full of spares I have collected over the years to run a second, even a third.

I have just found out that RRToadhall passed away in April of this year, for those who haven't heard. A freak accident apparently, but no details given.
Also Wammers from Landyzone is no more.
Despite disagreements with them, RIP to both of them.

I have just noticed this advert on ebay for a diesel engine ECU that has had the immobiliser programmed out.
Anyone heard of this before? and how is it done?
The Bosch engine ECU has a fixed EMS code stored in it. It is set at the factory and cannot be altered. The BECM reads and compares the code and sends a start signal if they are the same.
When an ECU is chipped with a different performance map it does not alter this code, it is stored elsewhere in the ECU.

diesel engine ecu

Anyone used one of these?

enter image description here

It is a Sealey scissor type transmission lift. TJ150E.

Looks ideal for lifting in a transfer box. It is rated for 150 Kgs and the transfer box weighs 75 Kgs.
Made in China and re badged. A few people do them.

FYI for guys in the UK, Hankook MF31-1000 batteries are back in stock.

Hankook MF31-1000

I have just ordered one as mine is a bit iffy. Next day delivery they say.

I am looking around for a decent heavy duty battery charger/booster as mine packed in and I have only got a small smart charger. Any recommendations?
I fancy the Clarke range in Machine Mart.

There is a UK parliament petition just started to reduce the road tax exemption from 40 years to 30 years.
I have just signed it and I urge all UK forum members to do the same.
When it gets to 10,000, the government must respond.

Although it won't affect us just yet, it is a move in the right direction I feel. A 1995 model p38 will be 26 years old now.

Road Tax Petition

A quick call for ideas please.
The Landy garage has just called. They have fitted the new transfer box and they have reported being unable to select high/low range and a horrible grinding noise from the transfer box when run.
The transfer box is about 10 years old and completely unused. I had the case apart to change the epicyclic gears from manual to auto. Nothing was else was disturbed and it went back together easily enough. It turned over by hand when reassembled. Can't think what could cause this. Ideas please gents?
The garage is going to have another look at it they said. Hope they put fluid in it.

I recently read that the RAC (UK) has introduced a new car insurance based on a simple cost per mile. I thought that is a good idea, so I checked into it.

With the covid lockdowns I am not doing the mileage and I also sorned the p38 for 5 months earlier this year.
Their scheme involves putting a sensor in the windscreen and there is also a requirement to carry a mobile phone with location data turned on.
After filling out page after page after page of questions it eventually said not for drivers over 65 and also not for cars over 15 years old.
There must be a fixed element as how else would it cover fire and theft for zero mileage? I didn't get that far with the quote.

I found a new link for a Microcat download as the usual ones seem to have dried up. I recently posted it on the .net site after a request.

I thought it would be useful to post it again on here: http://landroverklubs.lv/microcat/

I have got it running on an old Win7 computer that wakes up on LAN just when I want it and goes asleep the rest of the time.

Next job on my list is to change the transfer box. Nothing wrong with the one in the car, except it has done 165k miles and I have a new unused one complete with viscous coupling going buckshee. It has been under my workbench for more years than I care to remember and I keep banging my leg on it. Time to do something about it.
Problem is it has the epicyclic gear set for for the manual box. Not to worry, I have an auto box epicyclic gearset to swap over. Easy job I thought .... Not.

enter image description here

The case splits in the wrong place and it looks like all the gubbins has to come out to get at the epicyclic gears. I had a look through Rave and it says remove the viscous coupling first remove the bolts and just split the case. Anyone done it? and what to watch out for?
I was not going to change the oil seals. They are unused and I will be careful not to damage them. There does not seem to be a gasket between the two halves.

Not really an electrical problem, but I need a bit of advice on separating the glass headlight, if anyone has done it without it being too much hassle.

I have been ticking a few jobs off during the lockdown. I have one silver and one black headlight. I replaced the drivers side headlight several years ago with a silver one that I got cheap and It has been bugging me ever since. Mine is a 2000 MY and should have black headlights.
I have just bought a black one on Ebay which is in good condition but at the bottom where the two glass halves meet, there is a bit of green mold. It is between the two layers of glass so there must be a route for moisture to get through. It will only get worse.

I was thinking of splitting the glass halves somehow, then clean off the mold and re glue the halves back together.

Has anyone done it? or is it best to leave well alone?