I am on the Battery Megastore's mailing list having bought a battery from them earlier on this year.
For guys in the UK, they are now back in stock and there is a 10% off voucher, making the MF31-1000 now down to about £91.
Cracking battery if you haven't tried one before.
I don't wish to temp fate, but are there any recommendations for providing breakdown cover?
My p38 is currently not covered and it is coming up to 22 years old. I occasionally tow a trailer or caravan and I don't need European cover.
I would prefer a breakdown service that calls a local garage out rather than ones that have their own fleet like the RAC or AA.
This has been on and off for a while but seems to be back in favour again. There is a House of Commons select committee looking at it and it could be introduced "within weeks" apparently.
I have just had my p38 MOT'd and the mileage I did from the previous MOT in 2020 was only 350 miles. Admittedly it was SORN'd for 5 months.
I quite fancy getting a second p38, maybe a decent petrol one and just leave it parked out in the road to be used now and then. If it is not used, it costs nothing.
I hope the new scheme is not going to be half and half. A fixed charge and a mileage charge. I have got a shed full of spares I have collected over the years to run a second, even a third.
I have just found out that RRToadhall passed away in April of this year, for those who haven't heard. A freak accident apparently, but no details given.
Also Wammers from Landyzone is no more.
Despite disagreements with them, RIP to both of them.
I have just noticed this advert on ebay for a diesel engine ECU that has had the immobiliser programmed out.
Anyone heard of this before? and how is it done?
The Bosch engine ECU has a fixed EMS code stored in it. It is set at the factory and cannot be altered. The BECM reads and compares the code and sends a start signal if they are the same.
When an ECU is chipped with a different performance map it does not alter this code, it is stored elsewhere in the ECU.
Anyone used one of these?
It is a Sealey scissor type transmission lift. TJ150E.
Looks ideal for lifting in a transfer box. It is rated for 150 Kgs and the transfer box weighs 75 Kgs.
Made in China and re badged. A few people do them.
FYI for guys in the UK, Hankook MF31-1000 batteries are back in stock.
I have just ordered one as mine is a bit iffy. Next day delivery they say.
I am looking around for a decent heavy duty battery charger/booster as mine packed in and I have only got a small smart charger. Any recommendations?
I fancy the Clarke range in Machine Mart.
There is a UK parliament petition just started to reduce the road tax exemption from 40 years to 30 years.
I have just signed it and I urge all UK forum members to do the same.
When it gets to 10,000, the government must respond.
Although it won't affect us just yet, it is a move in the right direction I feel. A 1995 model p38 will be 26 years old now.
A quick call for ideas please.
The Landy garage has just called. They have fitted the new transfer box and they have reported being unable to select high/low range and a horrible grinding noise from the transfer box when run.
The transfer box is about 10 years old and completely unused. I had the case apart to change the epicyclic gears from manual to auto. Nothing was else was disturbed and it went back together easily enough. It turned over by hand when reassembled. Can't think what could cause this. Ideas please gents?
The garage is going to have another look at it they said. Hope they put fluid in it.
I recently read that the RAC (UK) has introduced a new car insurance based on a simple cost per mile. I thought that is a good idea, so I checked into it.
With the covid lockdowns I am not doing the mileage and I also sorned the p38 for 5 months earlier this year.
Their scheme involves putting a sensor in the windscreen and there is also a requirement to carry a mobile phone with location data turned on.
After filling out page after page after page of questions it eventually said not for drivers over 65 and also not for cars over 15 years old.
There must be a fixed element as how else would it cover fire and theft for zero mileage? I didn't get that far with the quote.
I found a new link for a Microcat download as the usual ones seem to have dried up. I recently posted it on the .net site after a request.
I thought it would be useful to post it again on here: http://landroverklubs.lv/microcat/
I have got it running on an old Win7 computer that wakes up on LAN just when I want it and goes asleep the rest of the time.
Next job on my list is to change the transfer box. Nothing wrong with the one in the car, except it has done 165k miles and I have a new unused one complete with viscous coupling going buckshee. It has been under my workbench for more years than I care to remember and I keep banging my leg on it. Time to do something about it.
Problem is it has the epicyclic gear set for for the manual box. Not to worry, I have an auto box epicyclic gearset to swap over. Easy job I thought .... Not.
The case splits in the wrong place and it looks like all the gubbins has to come out to get at the epicyclic gears. I had a look through Rave and it says remove the viscous coupling first remove the bolts and just split the case. Anyone done it? and what to watch out for?
I was not going to change the oil seals. They are unused and I will be careful not to damage them. There does not seem to be a gasket between the two halves.
Not really an electrical problem, but I need a bit of advice on separating the glass headlight, if anyone has done it without it being too much hassle.
I have been ticking a few jobs off during the lockdown. I have one silver and one black headlight. I replaced the drivers side headlight several years ago with a silver one that I got cheap and It has been bugging me ever since. Mine is a 2000 MY and should have black headlights.
I have just bought a black one on Ebay which is in good condition but at the bottom where the two glass halves meet, there is a bit of green mold. It is between the two layers of glass so there must be a route for moisture to get through. It will only get worse.
I was thinking of splitting the glass halves somehow, then clean off the mold and re glue the halves back together.
Has anyone done it? or is it best to leave well alone?
It is not possible to fit fog lights to the auto diesel because the auto box cooler is in the way of the LHS fog light.
However while I was just browsing Ebay, I noticed there is a 2001 Bordeaux diesel auto with fitted fog lights.
Anyone know if there was a factory mod done near the end of the p38 run ?
I have just been reading about Death Valley in California. It has just set a new record for the highest recorded temperature on earth of 54.4 deg C.
I used to live in Africa many years ago so used to temperatures in the mid 40's, but 54.4 deg C is unbelievable.
As a matter of interest any US members been there? and during the summer? and in a p38?
Another lockdown job.
I am into 3d printing and having bought a new UV resin printer, I have revisited an old project.
I did the drawing for the 3 gears in the blend motors and produced the .stl files to print out the gears a while back.
I originally tried to print them using ABS filament on my old printer but the resolution for printing small parts was not good enough.
My new resin printer is far better for small parts.
The genuine parts are on the left in the picture and my copies are on the right.
Not there yet, it needs a few more tweeks to match them more closely.
The resin is described as equivalent in strength to ABS.
I was going to use the shank of a suitable drill bit for the shaft.
Is there any interest in these parts? If so I will supply the files.
Constructive comments welcome.
I have just been on RangeRovers.net and I notice that Richard_G is now a super moderator !!
What goes round comes around. I wonder if Gilbertd has an opinion on that ?
I have previously posted a mod I did to my car which involved fitting a BMW E34/M3 coolant expansion tank. The tank is almost the same but it has the advantage of having a level sensor fitted. Can't recommend more strongly having a coolant level sensor. It saves a lot of grief.
Anyway, to cut a long story short, I was just on the Island4x4 webside ordering yet more bits and low and behold, someone now makes a level sensor which directly replaces the screw cap on the p38 OEM tank. The BMW tank mod is no longer needed, stay with the p38 tank.
Can't go wrong at that price even if it is Britpart.
New one on me. Car parked up and locked on my drive and suddenly it generates a loud continuous clicking noise.
This is with everything turned off and no key in the ignition.
I investigate under the bonnet, check relays etc and the noise seems to be from the vicinity of the ABS pump. Quite loud. Under the fuse box but difficult to pinpoint exactly, even with a mechanics stethoscope.
I turn on the ignition, ABS pump starts and the clicking stops. The pump runs for maybe 35 to 40 secs before it builds pressure and cuts out. So I suspect the accumulator needs changing. It has lasted 20 years.
Car drives and brakes OK. If I lock it again it is quiet for a few hours but the clicking returns. Presumably as the brake pressure drops.
Question ... what can the clicking be with everthing turned off?
I have just got off the phone to Mukiwa, or Hoppy to his friends. He has been a regular contributor on here over the years.
He lives near me in Cheshire. We met up after contacting each other on this forum and have kept in touch ever since.
Not spoke to him for a few weeks so just got in touch again.
He has had Corona Virus !!!
Pretty bad by the sound of it. He is a tough guy, 25 years in the Royal Marines. Thankfully he is getting over it. We wish him well.
He said it is OK to mention it on here.