I have been running General Grabber AT2's for a while now. They are a good compromise for off road driving without going too overboard.
I find them a little noisier than the previous road tyres but not excessively so. If you want to seriously go off road I would switch to 16" wheels.
A major consideration is also whether the tyre fits in the wheel well.
Finished spraying the windscreen side trims and refitted them. Door rubbers glued back with Evo Stick contact adhesive.
Dismantled roof rail cross bars and sanded and sprayed the aluminium extrusion parts. Plastic bits went in the dishwasher.
I changed the swan-neck for a 2" receiver like they use in the US. It is a genuine L/R part.
I have a removeable 50mm ball hitch that fits in the receiver for towing which is secured with a locking pin.
I also have a shackle to to fit in the receiver if ever I need to be pulled out of a ditch or mud hole or more likely pull someone else out.
You mean the ones inside the door?
As I remember the channel for the rubbing strip has pins that pop into holes in the door. These are secured on the inside with push on "spire nuts or washers"? I think they are called. I may be confusing it with another car, I have been working on a Volvo recently.
If all else fails use an industrial adhesive.
Are you the same Dopey as on Landyzone?
It is a drain point if water enters the wheel well. It might fill up full if wading in deep water.
No longer available I think unless a dealer has old stock.
I fitted a rubber blanking grommet instead.
My morning routine: dump, wipe - no more than 2 sheets, jump in shower. Regular as clockwork. A bog roll lasts me for weeks. I could cut it down to 1 sheet I reckon when push comes to shove or when the shit hits the fan.
Women are the main users of bog rolls. Wipe every f***ing thing.
When I were a lad ..... outside bog in a back to back terraced house with sheets of newspaper on an old rusty nail. I survived, just.
Some other things are getting hard to get as well. I do a bit of wood turning and I can't get dust masks now.
Hand sanitiser is another thing. My grandkids are always snotting on me and I wanted a few pocket sized containers.
Can't get them so I have found a DIY method on YouTube.
Well done gucci88. Car is fantastic.
We had a clear winner on here before regarding who had the best p38. It was Robbo1. Now he has serious competition for that title.
Thanks for sharing your story with us.
It sounds like your xy switch may be the cause of some of your problems at least.
Worth checking the adjustment is correct first.
The A/C drain tube is just above it and the switch can fill with water if the breather tube is not connected.
The transfer box needs to be switched between high and low ranges periodically. I do it every month or two when I remember. I run the car in low range round the block. Stopping and switching between high and low range. It keeps the mechanism free. If it hasn't been used for a bit, it can jam and burn out the solenoid. That in turn will eventually take out the ECU with it.
I have left a message and invited him (Beady) to join the forum. Sorry, if I have stepped on anyone's toes and not asked first.
He has my email address so I hope I get a response.
Another source of information, assuming he is willing to get involved, is Collin from Blackbox Systems who is already a member on here.
I have got Arnott Gen III's with Terrafirma +2" dampers.
Better in all respects except the ride at std height. Spring rate and dampers combine to give a stiffer ride.
If I was replacing dampers now, I would look at the adjustable dampers that Terrafirma do. They are adjustable on the car.
Just dial in what you want.
Island4x4 delivered the level sensor even though I told them to knock it off the order.
I can confirm that it is the wrong one. It is for a classic.
A number of guys that have been banned on RR.net over the years have gone on to join this forum.
Are they going to be let back in on RR.net ? A slap on the wrist and told don't be a naughty boy again?
I was also going to ask if Toad is still alive and kicking. He doesn't contribute anything these days on the p38 forum. He obviously must be though.
A bit like Mark Twain "The reports of my death are greatly exaggerated".
Replaced the brake accumulator, which was surprisingly tightly screwed on. Had to use an oil filter strap to loosen it.
Changed the brake fluid and then followed the Rave bleeding procedure. The job took most of the day.
I couldn't get the front wheels off. Took over an hour to loosen them. You can't easily get at the front brake bleed nipples unless you take the wheels off. I had them powder coated a few months back which had obviously made them a tight fit on the central spiggot.
I bought two panels that fit either side of the rear parcel shelf. don't know how many watts they are.
Never fitted. Another project that was never completed. Got them from Maplin, who have since gone bust.
Of course all of this is not the slightest help to you. Sorry.
I have had my p38 for 18 years now. Is that a record? I bought it 2 years old from a main dealer.
Hadn't had it long when we decided to go on a food and drink themed holiday in France with the caravan. My favourite type of holiday.
I remember visiting a village for lunch somewhere, the Dordogne I think, and there were some open fields and a woods next to it. I hadn't had the car long and was eager to explore off road and see what it could do.
I went hurtling across this field in long grass at a rate of knots, like about 30 mph, and suddenly right in front of me was a drainage ditch right across the field hidden by the long grass !
I skidded and plunged down into the ditch and hit the bank on the other side. The car nearly sumersaulted right over. We were wearing seat belts otherwise we would have been catapulted out. We ended up at 45 deg. Wife was hysterical.
It forced the valance back and bent the gearbox oil cooler, otherwise it was OK.
I have also reversed into my trailer A frame which I had left in the up position. The dent in the upper tailgate is still there.
I had had the car a couple of years and was still not really familiar with it. I previously had a classic and a discovery 1 but done no work on a p38. I bought it with 12 months factory warranty still on it and the dealer put a further 18 months on it. I had not joined any forums at that time so was green as far as p38's were concerned.
One day I was charging the battery and for some reason I had taken the plastic cover off the engine ECU box next to it. One of the charger clips came off and touched the metal ECU case causing a spark. Engine wouldn't start and I ended up getting it towed to an Independant Landrover Garage in North Wales. The warranty had expired by this stage.
Diagnosis was that I had spiked the Bosch engine ECU causing it to fail. It looked as though the BECM was OK.
Keeping a straight face, as they all do, the mechanic behind the counter said a new one is £1200 !
WTF !!! I said I will get back to him.
I rang my insurers and the girl who dealt with it, bless her little heart, said it is an accident just like filling your car up with the wrong fuel, so you are covered. I ended up paying a £100 xs as I remember. The insurance company picked up the tab for the rest.
After that I got more familiar with the car and bought the diagnostics. I have also built up quite a stock of spares off Ebay. I have bought engine ECU's for about £25 and programmed and chipped them myself.
I spoke a bit too soon.
Ticking off some more jobs on the car while we are on lockdown, I have just replaced my accumulator and changed the brake fluid.
Then discovered the clicking had returned !
Investigating further, I disconnected the battery and loosened the fuse box and I now think the clicking sound has been coming from the siren underneath. I have left it unplugged and there has been no repetition so far. I have also put the original relay back in. Seems I might have wasted £33 on the new relay.
Can't think what could cause it to click. Seemed to be rapid and regular, then pauses, a few slow clicks, then stops for a bit, then starts again. All with no key in the ignition. I think I have turned the alarm off in the BECM. Will need to check.
I have just replied to the same question on "the other side".
I have got Terrafirma TF145/6 Pro dampers with Gen III's. The spring rate(s) on Gen III's is also different than Dunlops as well, just to complicate matters. The spring rate actually varies with the height setting. Gen III's are softer off road, harder at standard and motorway height. The piston shape varies the spring rate.
If I was in the market for dampers now I would look at TF adjustables.
However, I have just had a thought, StrangeRover, fitting +2" dampers to a car without modding the rest e.g. air bags/ brake lines/ rear sensor arms. It might cause damage when the axle drops and is over extended.