Maybe I should have been clearer, I was only thinking of replacing the low pressure hose from the reservoir (hose ... rather than hoses plural).
Mine is currently just held on with a jubilee clip. It would be nice to tidy up the whole area, as mine weeps causing a mess.
If you detach the roll bar links, axle articulation is incredible when driving off road.
I bought some stainless steel rose joints and other bits, with the intention of making the links easily detachable by just removing a couple of pins.
Someone on RR.net said they also did it with rose joints and the noise and vibration was awful so I put it on hold.
I did see a system that used rubber bushes and was detachable.
Many years ago I had a fault on my DSE auto gearbox. At the time it was then fitted with the original HP22 box.
The fault put the car into limp mode and stuck in 3rd gear, but it was a soft fault, i.e. it cleared everytime the ignition was turned off then on again.
I suspected a speed sensor that was detecting a slipping clutch. I decided in the end to change the box and I fitted a HP24 box that I had. No more problems after that. Not sure if any of that helps.
I would make sure the battery is OK to start with. Low voltage can throw up lots of weird faults.
Is the big connector under the header tank damaged or corroded? Are the pins OK? There are a couple of sensors on the transfer box, a speed sensor and a temperature sensor. Gearbox ECU's are pretty reliable, never usually a problem but I have a spare DSE auto ECU if you want to try swapping it. There are a couple of versions however. Are the ECU's original or were they changed with the gearbox?
Transfer box ECU's do burn out if the actuator solenoid jams. I have a spare.
Will your nano work on a diesel if you have a petrol licence?
Further thoughts. The injectors at the back of the engine are a bit of a stretch to get to even for me. I have to stand on something and lean over and it does my back in.
Suggest she does just the one that is leaking instead of doing all of them. You finish the job when the car is back at base.
It could be the clutch plates are disintegrating. However the gearbox valve box could be also gummed up. It takes ATF Dextron 2/3.
Gear change is also affected by readings from the various sensors around the engine.
Dave Ashcroft also told me to clean the MAF first if there was a gear change issue, don't know why, but he is the main man.
The leak off hose is 3.2mm diameter. You can get it at any motor factors. Just cut the old hose off with a stanley knife and push the new on leaving a small loop between each injector. Some kits come with a bung for the end, some don't.
Tell her to be careful near no.4 injector, the one with the electrical connection. It is bloody expensive.
No need to bleed the system.
I might also add that silicone tubing doesn't work for very long for this application. Use the proper hose.
I had a classic years ago. It was a 1982 two door and fitted with a 4 cylinder Perkins diesel engine. The big problem again was rust.
I did however learn to MIG weld on that car. About the only good thing that came from it. I started on the floor panels and then the door pillars.
I wouldn't have another one. My P38 is 19 years old now and pretty rust free underneath.
If you are going to change your gearbox, change it for the HP24 out of the 4.6. It has stronger internals, particularly if you have chipped the engine. Use your old diesel bellhousing and torque converter. You need to get the later HP24 box marked 065, which is a direct swap. I can advise on the details as I have done it.
Doing it via Ashcrofts (as I did) is expensive. The cost does not include fitting. They farm it out to other garages they use.
They do a very good job but knowing what I know now I think I would buy a S/H box and get a local indy to fit it.
You see plenty of gearboxes on Ebay or contact Emmotts of Colne, not too far.
There are three variations of auto box used in the P38. The HP22 used in the diesel and the 4.0, and two versions of the HP24, early and late, used in the 4.6.
The early version of HP24 is 15mm longer but the later one is exactly the same overall. The bellhousings and TC's are different between the diesel and 4.0/4.6.
The early HP24 box can be made to fit by fitting a later tailend housing according to Ashcrofts . Or maybe just redrill the gearbox cross member? Don't know as I haven't done it.
Other things to consider: Ashcrofts can fit beefier HP24 internals in a HP22 box as an alternative. Also you can get an uprated TC for the diesel. I have fitted one.
Just a mobile phone in a holder stuck on the windscreen. I use Google for navigating on the road. You need to have mobile data enabled to use it.
When off the beaten track I have got an Android app that runs UK Ordinance Survey maps. Not sure about the legality of it.
It is not navigation, it just shows you where you are, or more usually that you are not where you thought you are.
The link you provided is a very neat job.
I have got a clamp on DC meter and it is a very useful piece of kit for checking if the BECM goes to sleep. I have used it a few times.
I see the prices have come down to about half of what I paid 8 or 10 years ago.
Another useful tester when looking for circuits using power is this one:
You take the fuse out and replace it with the end of the probe and you can see how much current the circuit is pulling.
I have got factory guards on mine.
Hard to disguise the rivnut but you could put a stainless steel button dome head allen screw in it. It doesn't look too bad.
While trying to find the source of a bad rumble, I recently replaced my front wheel bearings. I could swear the rumble was coming from the front and only later discovered it was the rear diff ! Not wishing to lie on my back in the drive to do the job, I got an indy to fit a new diff.
The car is running OK now but I thought I would check out the rear hubs and brakes which was not part of the indy's job.
I am not entirely happy with what they have done. They fitted a refurbished 2 pin diff without asking me and managed to round some of the bolts holding the hub carrier on.
However, one thing I noticed is that they have used sealant on the joint between the hub carrier and the rear axle. They are machined faces with 6 bolts.
I can't see the point of using sealant as the oil seal keeps the oil in the axle. There is no mention of using sealant in Rave.
Well done. So it was the MAF all along. Who would have thought it. I know it affects the gearchange, but for it to be so pronounced is a surprise.
I know that when you unplug the MAF, it resorts to default settings in the fuel map. I should have suggested that.
It takes the pressure off trying to find a HP24 gearbox. As you said it is best to change it in the long term particularly if you chip it.
Leave a search running on Ebay to see if one comes up locally. You do see some going for as little as £100 if nobody bids on it.
I guess "shagged" is a technical expression? Yes, use your old diesel bellhousing and TC. The V8 bellhousing is wider and has different bolt hole spacings. The 4.6 petrol TC won't fit either. It is bigger and won't physically fit inside the diesel bellhousing, so you don't have much choice.
I got my uprated diesel TC from Ashcrofts. They are expensive to buy but I did a deal with them and part exed a brand new 4.6 TC. New, I think they would be around £1000. I don't think Ashcrofts make them. I think they may be based on another L/R model but don't know for sure.
Whether it is worth the money? Not sure. It does slip less and the lockup in top occurs at 46-48mph whereas before it was maybe 52-54mph. I have chipped my diesel and Ashcrofts recommended it , so it was part of a package deal.
Good luck with the new box. Labour to change a box? Two guys x 2 hrs. 4 man hrs total?
Thanks. I put a thin smear of red hermatite on the faces and bolted it up.
It may be to prevent water ingress when wading or if the hub is sat in water for a length of time. The only other route for water to get in is via the hub splines. The ABS sensor is fully sealed. Maybe the splines should be coated in silicone grease before assembly? I don't think the wheel bearings are fully water proof. There was evidence of rust inside the carrier housing.
Yeah, technology is moving on very fast. There was a big difference in price between AC clamp on meters and those that would do DC.
My clamp on meter was made in the USA. It has been very good. New ones now seem to be made in China at half the cost. Sign of the times maybe.
Clive, who are you calling big and clumsy? Yes you can do it cheaper, but it is just more convenient to have all the gear on hand. Keep the Avo 8, a collectors item. It is probably appreciating in price. Haven't seen one for years.
Lpgc, bought a scope off Alibaba, cost next to bugger all and plugs into usb on a pc. Never used it except for plugging it in to see if it works.
I also used to mess about with valve radios in my youth. Ex military receivers that ended up down the dump. Just one valve now goes for an arm and a leg.
Thanks for the very practical tips, Richard. You are preaching to the converted about suspension bushes. I would always stick with OEM. I had bad experiences with a classic rangerover I once had and also souped up Ford escorts many years ago.
I clamped the radius arm in a Black & Decker workmate and burnt the old OEM bushes out with a propane torch in the back garden. I used an old wood chisel and I caught the blobs of burning rubber in a tray underneath. This just left the plastic outer to chisel out. The inside hole in the radius arm was bright metal.
I turned a plug out of hardwood to fit in the hub and another to fit in the end of the axle. The one in the hub has a centre hole to take a laser pointer that shines on the axle plug. It has a cross hair scale on it. The theory was to adjust the collet until the red dot was in the centre.
Not entirely satisfactory, as when the plug is rotated the laser dot moves position. It should be concentric irrespective of how you rotate it.
Not entirely acurate, maybe a future mkII version might work.
Why wood? I have a wood lathe and it is dead easy to turn it. I also have a small Clarke model making lathe but I had no suitable aluminium.
I fitted a new collet when I did mine. For you to be in the right ball park, I found it needs to be screwed right in with only two threads showing.
Another thing I have heard is that the design of the seal changed from an early version. There were too many problems with leaks. The design of the inner lip was altered to one which is more accomodating to being slightly off centre.
I am a bit late to the party but I bought a Clarke jump start a couple of years ago when It was on offer from Machine Mart. It has an impressive spec (on paper).
Bearing in mind I have the diesel, which is a whole new ball game as regards starting, It said 1500 amps and the battery on the car is about 1000 CCA, so I thought it would be man enough. However it would hardly turn over the car even after fully charging the jump starter.
I have a professional battery tester and it only gave 180 Amps. The shop swapped it for another but it was no better. I got a refund.
I can't see how it could ever be rated at 1500 amps.