The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
628 posts

My experience is they just get worse and worse, noisier and noisier when turning. I have never had one fail completely either on a p38 or other front wheel drive cars I have owned. You could nurse it along for a bit and keep your foot off the gas particularly when turning.
It is not too big a job changing them if you have got all the bits and the half shaft comes out OK. Maybe half a day.

Fit a pressure gauge so you can see what is going on.

Thanks for the comments guys. Plenty of room for thought.
My experience with the AA was many, many years ago. Anyone remember the yellow huts where they kept an emergency gallon can of petrol inside? You were issued with your own key to the door. The can would be stolen now, with the hut as well no doubt. Or the AA motorbike sidecars who would give you a smart salute as they passed?
Both the AA and RAC were flogged off to venture capital companies and then cut to the bone. It must be 20 or 30 years since I used them but I remember making calls and being told 2 to 3 hours wait. They are also expensive now.
I am tempted to go back to Green Flag/ Mayday through the caravan club and also add an extra car for £25.
I need to check out Autoaid and Start rescue as well.

Add this link as well Tailgate button seal

and this another seal

I don't wish to temp fate, but are there any recommendations for providing breakdown cover?
My p38 is currently not covered and it is coming up to 22 years old. I occasionally tow a trailer or caravan and I don't need European cover.
I would prefer a breakdown service that calls a local garage out rather than ones that have their own fleet like the RAC or AA.

The weight hardly matters, Its a Rangerover after all.
It is quite a substantially made tank. Take it off, wire brush it and paint it. Good for another 20 years.
I use cure rust gel and black hammerite underneath.

Another solution has come to mind.
There is a guy on RR.net (PsiDOC) who has developed an add on board for the engine ECU

ECU board .

It effectively does away with the immobiliser code.
Has anyone on here asked him the price of the boards or do I need to pm him? Interesting to see ballpark what we are talking about.

Modulators are bloody expensive new, like £2 to £3k, so that would be the reason for doing it.
There are different types as well. I am not even sure if you can buy new modulators now. Could have been on the dealers shelf for 20 years.
I got a few used modulators that have popped up on Ebay just in case. Along with Wabco controllers which sometimes go and used booster pumps.

An old post but here is an updated link to a guy on Ebay selling a service kit to repair the button Service Kit
Spring is stainless steel so should solve the corrosion problem.

I have had good experience with Auto Silicone Hoses for coolant hoses and turbo hose; available direct or on Amazon/ Ebay.
I don't have any vacuum pipes and not tried on fuel. Silicone pipes are no good for the diesel injector bleed off pipes.

The Faultmate is the most capable diagnostic system on the market for the p38. I can't compare it to the nanocom as I don't have one. The main difference is module SM035 which allows you to unlock and change all the settings in the BeCM. You can clone another used BECM. There are actually two versions of the Faultmate, one with and one without a screen. The version with the screen can be run in standalone mode but it does more when connected to a pc. There can't be many people in SA with SM035, so if you did offer it as a service there would be a slow payback on your outlay.
From what I have seen of the Nanocom, the graphics are better and it is a nice neat unit to carry around. As I remember, it was someone elses design originally and it was sold to BBS, who then added more capability to it. More software modules.
I upgraded the software on my Faultmate and paid the difference. I later added SM035. I use my Faultmate with an old Toughbook on Win 2000.
BBS also used to have an annual Christmas sale with 10% off, which I took advantage of.

Addendum: If you just wish to swap engine ECU's around, each of which will have its own unique security code, won't a Sync-Mate do this job?
Sync-Mate only 96 euros. You shouldn't pay VAT.

They gave me full credit for the single VIN software package that I had paid for previously (MP015), but not the hardware part as that is the same, against the multi vehicle full monty price (MP112). I paid the difference.
They are very restrictive though. Before I did that I bought a second Faultmate on UK Ebay. It was s/h with just two modules on it. Multi vehicle engine ECU's and BECM's only. I registered it with them and thought I would transfer the modules across to my original Faultmate. They refused to issue the codes however. You can't transfer software modules from one Faultmate to another.
I ended up selling the second Faultmate @ half price to a guy in Zimbabwe (we still keep in touch but he ran into the back of a sugar cane truck a while back due to the dust clouds and wrote his p38 off).
I ended up forking out for the full monty version. I am not sure whether they will give you credit for the gearbox module you have.
As you found out the single VIN version scans the ECU's which are connected to the car (not sure how exactly) and it is then locked to that car. If you change an ECU it won't automatically read it. You have to get their permission and get them to issue new software codes.

Thanks for the advice Clive. I will turn the regulator down as you suggest. I also wear a mask and goggles.

For very small parts, I have got an ultrasonic bath that I can use with either warm water/detergent or isopropyl alcohol (IPA). It works very well but only for small bits and pieces. Anything larger goes in the dishwasher when she is out. I set it on intense. After the cycle I put another tablet in the empty machine to make sure it is clean. She is then none the wiser. Valve blocks and brake parts mainly. Nothing big.

During the lockdown I revamped the air compressor in my workshop. It is a Wolf twin cylinder 14 cfm with a 3 hp motor on it. I have just upped the pressure to 150psi and fitted a new retractable air hose. I have got a blast cabinet and I have previously messed about with silica sand, glass beads and and even baking soda blasting. I do it out in the garden. The blast cabinet is portable and goes on top of a B&D workmate. The air system wasn't up it, but now I have rejigged it, I am planning to use it again. The ceramic nozzles seem to wear out fast as well.

I don't use Gunk or other engine degreasers as there is nowhere for the water to run off. I have to do it out in the drive. I generally use rubber gloves and a piece of terry towel soaked in petrol for wiping oil stains off the underneath of the car.

Only other thing to add is I subscribe to a few YouTube channels and one guy recommended G101 detergent for cleaning parts. I bought a 5L container but have hesitated so far to use it on aluminium parts. It is strongly alkaline.

I assume the software in your Faultmate is locked to a single VIN?
P38 parts do fail and BBS allow you to change components on the car under certain circumstances, as long as you are not doing it every 5 minutes. If you have a word with them they can issue new codes for the Faultmate. There may be a small charge. You are stuck with one ECU though.
If you want to be able to swap ECU's backwards and forwards, to check out maps for instance, you will have to upgrade to the engine ECU software module that can do all cars. They may give you a credit for the what you have already paid.
I upgraded from single VIN to the full monty able to do all p38's inc SM035 and I just paid the difference, which was still a lot.

I have got a phev that I charge at home on a cheap night time rate. If they put an extra charge on kWh from charge points it wouldn't affect me. I seldom use them, they are too expensive. Some cost more than running on diesel.
Can't see how they could monitor mileage either. Split between battery and diesel mileage is not easy to separate out.
Hmm. More questions than answers.

It raises more questions than it answers, but it has now been out for written submissions by "interested parties" so could be introduced in the October budget. A black box tracker for everyone? I don't think so, too many cars on the road, but maybe a new car requirement? I am guessing.
Using MOT recorded mileage is problematic as davew pointed out (cynically ha ha).
However, they are not going to get the revenue and the books have got to balance.
People now working from home more, coupled with a switch to hybrids.
My guess is it is going to be transferred to fuel duty, but how to tax electric cars?

The reflective coating rubs off very easily if you try and clean it. It is a couple of thou thick.

This has been on and off for a while but seems to be back in favour again. There is a House of Commons select committee looking at it and it could be introduced "within weeks" apparently.
I have just had my p38 MOT'd and the mileage I did from the previous MOT in 2020 was only 350 miles. Admittedly it was SORN'd for 5 months.
I quite fancy getting a second p38, maybe a decent petrol one and just leave it parked out in the road to be used now and then. If it is not used, it costs nothing.
I hope the new scheme is not going to be half and half. A fixed charge and a mileage charge. I have got a shed full of spares I have collected over the years to run a second, even a third.

Advantages would be cheaper more readily available parts, a simpler or more conventional braking system and easier to fix if you are in the sticks.

Disadvantages would be no traction control, no ABS, possibly less power from the brakes? ... vacuum servo vs high pressure pump.
Front to rear braking split could be solved with an adjustable valve.