The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
753 posts

Slightly off subject, but does an LPG conversion now make a p38 ULEZ compliant?
Dumb question but I have got a dirty diesel.

Good idea to see feedback on suppliers. It helps us all. I have found Island4x4 consistantly good over the years., Rimmers is another. They have gone the extra mile in the past and have been very helpful over the phone. I remember one occasion when the guy went walkabout in the warehouse while we were on the phone. He found and described the part on the shelf "live" over the phone. It doesn't get better than that.

I got pissed off with John Craddock only last week. My MOT is due and I needed a couple of rubber boots for the track rod ball joints, which were split. It was and advisory on the MOT a year ago, so needed to be done asap before the test.
I ordered them online from their website. So far so good, order confirmed and money taken from my account.
Then I get an email saying the prices have gone up and I need to pay extra. This was after accepting the order in the first place. . Clearly the prices on their website were incorrect. Basically selling what they don't have. Some bullshit about suppliers putting their prices up and they need to pass on the costs. I made a fuss and called it a sharp business practice and got a full refund. I than ordered from Island4x4. Got them in 2 days.

Busy this morning getting alternative quotes for my Volvo diesel hybrid.
Got it finally for £605 fully comp from Churchill and cancelled Adrian Flux (Ageon) within the 14 day cooling off period.
P38 is due soon.

My Volvo hybrid has jumped up from £785 to £1323. I am with Adrian Flux.
They are saying that there is an all round general increase plus the risk of a battery fire with my hybrid.
Apparently all electric cars and motorhomes have gone through the roof.

Car had been parked out in the road for 2 weeks so I thought it was time to give it a run.
It started first time on the button, I am glad to say (It is a diesel). I had fitted a new non return valve in the fuel line a few weeks back. It seems to have done the trick. Diesel no longer runs back to the tank.
Gave it a 10 or 15 mile run round the back lanes and I get dancing door locks. Next job on my list.

Sorry if a bit late. I have only just seen this.
Fit a non return valve at the front under the bonnet in the line going to the fuel filter. Suitable NR valve on Amazon.
They don't last forever. I replaced mine after about 3 or 4 years.
You will also need a bit of 8mm id fuel tubing (not silicone) and a couple of jubilee clips.
There should be a non return valve in the in tank pump on the diesel but now often ommitted.

Our AI poet doesn't say anything about the heater o-rings, door latches, loosing sync.with the BECM or even the oil leaks.

All this AI stuff is getting a bit scary.

In the realm of luxury and might,
Where elegance meets off-road's delight,
There roams a majestic chariot grand,
With prowess and style, across the land.

Behold the P38 Range Rover, esteemed,
A legend of engineering, it gleamed.
Its silhouette strong, a timeless design,
With grace and power, a sight so fine.

Adorned in metal, shining with pride,
Its curves and edges, a symphony's ride.
A conqueror, it treads on rugged terrains,
Unyielding to obstacles, breaking all chains.

The engine roars, a symphony untamed,
Unleashing its might, it cannot be tamed.
A beast within, with horses that surge,
Propelling forward, with each tire's urge.

Inside, a sanctuary of lavish repose,
Fine leather caresses, where comfort flows.
Crafted with care, the cabin's allure,
Whispers of luxury, so pure and sure.

Technological marvels at every touch,
A seamless fusion, oh, it's all too much.
From panoramic views to infotainment divine,
A realm of innovation, where wonders entwine.

Through sunlit days or moonlit nights,
The P38 Range Rover paints vibrant sights.
From city streets to nature's domain,
It conquers all realms, no challenge in vain.

Oh, P38 Range Rover, majestic and bold,
You capture our hearts, as stories unfold.
A symbol of adventure, grace, and might,
Forever embedded in memories bright.

(courtesy of ChatGPT)

It is known as a "double entendre", Leolito. A bit of levity after a difficult day trying to get my headlight apart. Everything I touched broke.
Good job I didin't touch my balls. Ha Ha.

Thanks guys. I have lubricated my balls, I finally got the unit apart with the help of a few squirts of WD40 lithium grease. I used an open ended spanner as a lever around each ball socket. I think I will take out the battery box next as suggested. Then I think stainless nuts and bolts all round when I reassemble it. What started out as a two hour job has developed into a two day job.

My headlight units don't match. I have got one silver and one black headlight. It has been like that for a bit and I thought it about time I changed out the silver one. I have bought a good black headlight but with a broken housing. The headlight itself is OK.

I thought, no problem, I will take out the original headlight assembly from the car complete with the housing then fit the replacement headlight off the car. However, I have run into a few snags. I can't get the old headlight assembly off the car. One of the bolts in front of the battery is rusted solid as well as hard to get at. It won't take a socket and really needs drilling out (not keen). Plan B is to separate the new headlight from the broken housing and fit just the headlight to the housing still on the car.
The headlight has 3 brass adjusting screws which form ball and socket joints at the rear of the headlight. The brass ball sits in a nylon cup in the plastic.
What is the proper way to separate these? it looks as though they just lever out but I don't want to damage it. Rave does not cover it.

I never use a torque wrench either. I usually use a short ring spanner on plugs like that rather than a socket set which has a greater risk of over tightening.

I am not a fan of those devices either. You are better fitting a chip directly in the Bosch engine ECU.

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The original chip needs unsoldering and replacing with a new one. If you fit a zif socket you can swap chips easily.



There is one on Ebay now for a diesel p38. Nanocom

sorry - just read you have got the 4.0L.

I've got a small model making lathe with a self centering chuck and a friend of mine also has a watchmaking lathe if I need one.
The tips look stainless steel or possiblly mazak as Richard said. Stainless is not easy to machine, by me anyway. If you cock it up thats the end of the valve block.

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I was thinking of cleaning up the conical end in a lathe. Just take a thou or two off.

Better pic
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I get get condensation in mine from time to time. Made worse by the fact that my aircon has not worked for serveral years (new years resolution).
I have a cheap mains dehumidifier and I leave it running in the car 24/7 for a week at a time. It shifts a shed load of water.

I invested in a cooling system pressure tester for investigating leaks. The one i have got is actually made in the States by Stant. I bought it on Amazon. It comes with its own pump and you also need to buy the right adapter to fit the reservoir (BMW).
It has proved really useful. Just pump up the system, from memory I think to around 10 psi, and leave it for a few hours to see if the system is tight.
Apart from the dreaded jubilee clips and perished hoses, I have found one of the main source of leaks is the reservoir itself. The caps wear and leak and eventually the plastic screw thread gets worn. I put a bit if silicone grease on the thread so the cap can be tightened down fully.
The level in my reservoir levels off around the top and bottom join in the plastic. Fill it any more and it will loose a bit before levelling out.
Can't help with the oil loss. I have got the diesel, which always blows smoke from the exhaust and drips oil !

For what purpose other than malevolence? They have skills that should be put to good use.